Mirabell61

Hi jiljilia,
 
here is a Version which is complete machine-sewn, also the bolt rope to the edge..
I boroughed my wife`s sewing machine
 
Nils
 

 

 

Hi jiljilia,
 
here is a Version which is complete machine-sewn, also the bolt rope to the edge..
I boroughed my wife`s sewing machine
 
Nils
 

 

 

am exercising with the channels right now, but thought it would be best to mount the side decors first. The etched Amati decors are very precise and I can imagine for those building the kit the Position and size of the gunports are readily given and cut out, but when building to plan, one has to place those gunports absolutely exact, otherwise the decor`s outcut spaces wont fit properly
 
 
Nils
 
 

the etched decors were brushed over with a fine grit to get tem shiny again and then sealed off with clear varnish
 

all fits into the scheme well
 

 
 

main mast starboard channel plate, underside, 2mm three layer ply
 

topside, shall see how the angle Support bracket fit best later on, and where those are to be spaced, so the do`nt hinder the deadeyetackles

am exercising with the channels right now, but thought it would be best to mount the side decors first. The etched Amati decors are very precise and I can imagine for those building the kit the Position and size of the gunports are readily given and cut out, but when building to plan, one has to place those gunports absolutely exact, otherwise the decor`s outcut spaces wont fit properly
 
 
Nils
 
 

the etched decors were brushed over with a fine grit to get tem shiny again and then sealed off with clear varnish
 

all fits into the scheme well
 

 
 

main mast starboard channel plate, underside, 2mm three layer ply
 

topside, shall see how the angle Support bracket fit best later on, and where those are to be spaced, so the do`nt hinder the deadeyetackles

Hi all,
the last half Frames are roughly shaped and dry fitted to the hull structure.
 
Next is to adjust and glue them before moving on to the transom parts.
 
I wish a happy Easter weekend to all of you!
 
 

Thank you all.
Alistair, I have to agree with Kester in that a boat on the starboard side does only make sense if you tow it astern before going into action (I remember reading about such preparations in Patrick O’Brian’s books).
N. Robert Cole thinks that all cutters had to tow their boats (difficult to get them aboard and stow them without making working the boat impossible). But in the same paragraph he writes that the admiralty requested all vessels to hoist their boats in to reduce losses. So I guess cutters lost their boats regularly in heavy weather or had to stow them on deck to prevent that, even if this was difficult and cumbersome to do.
As I have not made fast the little boat (14’, in relation to the longer Alert’s 18 footer) to the deck, I will probably show it towed in the end (there is a beautiful example in MSW’s gallery). The most important woman in my life thinks my Sherbourne’s deck too crowded anyway…
It will be more crowded at the bow with the furled sails. I’m looking forward to your progress there, Kester. The Alert book shows that the jib is made fast with hooks, so it would have been easy to haul the traveller in and unhook it, leaving only the tackle hooked there and stow the sail elsewhere. The question remains open…
A horse of iron, no legs (and not a underpowered car)? Thankfully Cole's model shows an example, which I copied quickly (picture taken from Cole's paper).
 
 

 
On my Sherbourne, it would look like this, making the working of the guns beside it almost impossible.
 
 
I could move back the knight heads a few millimetres and shorten the horse (what a terrible thought), but would it still work like that?
 

  I foresee pinrail crisis (part two) anyway in the nearer future. Cole’s belaying points bring Dirk’s windlass arrangement to mind, lucky him.
I think they invented engines to get rid of all these problems (but lost the beauty of it on the way).
Gregor

Well, of course it went the way I dreaded, the way the skipper wanted. I had to remake the rear bench and that little deck in the bow of the longboat.
 
The details of the launch were completed and fortunately it fit into the reworked longboat without any additional supports.
Provisional stowing on the spare spars seems to show a piece of luck - that it should be possible to fix those two boats there just as they are.
 

Reworked longboat and detailed launch
 

Boats provisionally stowed

While checking which blocks might be missing to put up the furled spanker I couldn’t figure how to put up the boom.
The gaff is held up by halliards at both ends but the boom’s inner end seems to be levitating. Lees wasn’t too clear either and therefore I decided to attach a saddle to the mizzen in a similar fashion as on Granado.
To fit it around the finished mast I fabricated a ring from leftover ply wood, cut it in two (and made a small quoin to fill the gap resulting from some mistake with the measurements) and glued all together with 4 supports to the mast.
The boom should hopefully mask the tinkering.
 

 

Finally the buntlines were attached according Lees and belayed on the quarterdeck rail. This is all the rigging which will be installed on the main yard for now.
 
 

Buntlines installed
 
 

Belaying the buntlines. Note the 2 blocks stropped together end on end for the buntlines.

Next came the fore yard.
 
The work was similar to the main yard. The maximum diameter across the octagonal section was reduced to 4,8mm. 
 
The stunsail booms inner rings had to be reduced in diameter again (cut open with a cutting wheel, adjust the remaining length, bend it do a smaller ring and fix with CA).
 
While working on the rings I found that the rings on the main yard are the wrong way. There is a thickening in the boom ring which represents a roll for easier movement of the boom. It should of course be on the lower side of the ring. I don’t know yet if correction is possible.
 

 
 
To fix the stunsail booms I put on a lashing with 7 turns, similar to what is used to fix the bowsprit. First step is to fix the line with a timber hitch on the yard. Then the 7 turns are laid, crossing the existing turns each time when going through the gap between yard and boom.

The correction of the lower counter’s sides was next.
When first attaching the ornamental piece, I had problems to place it. A main reason could be the straight instead of concave lower counter. (That’s another one of those mistakes which I found out too late to correct it.)
 
First I peeled the offending pieces carefully off. Then I started to cut away with a small cutting wheel following the ornamental lines. The part above the main wale was doubled up with some spare deck planks. After some gilding with paint it could be reinstalled. Voila! It does look better.

 
Old look...


 
...with the ornamental piece heavily overhanging the counter.

 
 
Doubling up the peeled off piece


 
The new look


 


 


 

A rather easy improvement was the addition of a ships lantern. While browsing trough caldercraft’s fittings I found that the tops lantern should fit Pegasus as a single transom lantern.


For obvious reasons it was only provisionally installed.


 
Assembled lantern (needs some repainting)

 

 
Provisionally installed. I guess it will need two additional diagonal struts for the final installation.


 


 
 

All the time, while I was building the yards I kept looking at the Pegasus and was comparing her with other build logs.

 
Several points were either differing with other models or with contemporary pictures in the web and either they were nagging me or had to be explained:


I know, that the colouring of the ship was probably different (e.g. more red on the deck fittings etc.) but as all you probably have are snapshots or descriptions of one particular point in time. I guess the skipper had usually to take what colour was available or could buy and paint more according to his liking. I always liked the Bellona’s colour scheme on the coppered model and decided to follow it.

 
In other logs the side badges were heavily improved to get a proper 3 dimensional look. To correct them I would have to build them anew. Probably too much and I will learn to live with my simplified badges as intended by the kit manufacturer.


Gunport lids will be fixed on the first two and the aftermost 3 ports. This again is not in agreement with some sources but as I try to be a considerate skipper I will pay for the additional lids out of my own pocket.
What would be the use of the installation of bulwarks, if you are unable to close the gunports within those compartments?
 
 
A ship of this size would probably have a lantern. I found one which should suit Pegasus.
 
 
That ornamented side piece left and right of the lower counter is overhanging and doesn’t follow properly the contour of the hull. This should be corrected.
 
 
Stupid me did use the ugly pillars supplied with the kit for the rail along the short gangway or side deck. They will be replaced!

That has to be corrected!

While checking the different books for information about lashing the jibboom I found that I made a mistake about the front end of the boom.

It’s cross-section shouldn’t resemble a square but an U.

The two lower edges were filed round and repainted.




 
(During the first edition of that log some members supplied information about a possible lashing of the jibboom. As a  consequence I put on such a lashing.)
 

 
Then I added a lashing for the jibboom and the blocks.


 

Topgallant mast added

 
 
The deadeye for the mizzen stay is fixed a bit higher up than on the plan to let the stay clear
the quarterdeck rail and the hammock cranes


 

The port lids and several small parts, likely to break off, such as hammock cranes, hatchway rails or swivel guns will be put in
place after the rigging.

And yes, somebody will have to go over the transom with some blue and white paint to refresh the carvings’ colour. Most probably it will have to be me, which is only fair as I obviously didn’t always ‘mind the paintwork’.
 



 

The general idea about colour was to use it as sparse as possible. So all the deck furnishing along the centreline was left in
wood. As far as I know, they did also use varnish to protect the wood in the 18th century.

The gun carriages are also just varnished. With those wooden ones this is fortunately possible and I like it better than red.
 
(One of the comments to my first build log pointed very correctly to the rather ugly narrow sides of all the plywood parts. He was right of course and later I did try to mask them, where still possible,  according his suggestion with wood colored paint. On future builds I will do this before assembling and building in.)


 
 

 

A lucky shot against the sun rising behind the forecastle
 

Finally the almost finished hull was fixed on its stand.


 

This is my way for sailmaking:
http://www.shipsofscale.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=427
 
Tadeusz
 
My models:
From kits
Vasa, HMS Victory, Le Solei Royale, Friesland
From scratch
HMS Warrior 1860,
Esplanade,
Grosse Yacht
Norman’s ship,
HMS Speedy,
La Royale
Peter von Danzig
Polacca XVII cent.

Current project:
SS Savannah 1818

am exercising with the channels right now, but thought it would be best to mount the side decors first. The etched Amati decors are very precise and I can imagine for those building the kit the Position and size of the gunports are readily given and cut out, but when building to plan, one has to place those gunports absolutely exact, otherwise the decor`s outcut spaces wont fit properly
 
 
Nils
 
 

the etched decors were brushed over with a fine grit to get tem shiny again and then sealed off with clear varnish
 

all fits into the scheme well
 

 
 

main mast starboard channel plate, underside, 2mm three layer ply
 

topside, shall see how the angle Support bracket fit best later on, and where those are to be spaced, so the do`nt hinder the deadeyetackles

am exercising with the channels right now, but thought it would be best to mount the side decors first. The etched Amati decors are very precise and I can imagine for those building the kit the Position and size of the gunports are readily given and cut out, but when building to plan, one has to place those gunports absolutely exact, otherwise the decor`s outcut spaces wont fit properly
 
 
Nils
 
 

the etched decors were brushed over with a fine grit to get tem shiny again and then sealed off with clear varnish
 

all fits into the scheme well
 

 
 

main mast starboard channel plate, underside, 2mm three layer ply
 

topside, shall see how the angle Support bracket fit best later on, and where those are to be spaced, so the do`nt hinder the deadeyetackles

Build log part 24
 
 
 

chainpump Station with housing, drain plugs, the discharge sides ore closed whith slide shutters
 

crank handles for chainpumps and Forward bearing supports, and Support for the spare masts and spars as well as Posts and belaying rack. The three mid Pins will be replaced with smaller ones
 

the grating cover of the main load hatch is and stays removeable
 

 
 

 

it is amazing how fast the dust settles in the open portside interior, Need to carefully brush it out now and then
 

all the aft cabin bulkheads are waiting to be set
 

it was always my wish and Intention to have a figurehead in cast brass instead of resin, it was impossible to get it anywhere, acc. to Chris Watton Amati would`nt do it because they favour resin, but I would not give up..., so now after Research and activity I have my own prototype one in scale 1/64 and it fits very well and gives the model a Special note
 

 

 
 
 
Nils

am exercising with the channels right now, but thought it would be best to mount the side decors first. The etched Amati decors are very precise and I can imagine for those building the kit the Position and size of the gunports are readily given and cut out, but when building to plan, one has to place those gunports absolutely exact, otherwise the decor`s outcut spaces wont fit properly
 
 
Nils
 
 

the etched decors were brushed over with a fine grit to get tem shiny again and then sealed off with clear varnish
 

all fits into the scheme well
 

 
 

main mast starboard channel plate, underside, 2mm three layer ply
 

topside, shall see how the angle Support bracket fit best later on, and where those are to be spaced, so the do`nt hinder the deadeyetackles

Build log part 24
 
 
 

chainpump Station with housing, drain plugs, the discharge sides ore closed whith slide shutters
 

crank handles for chainpumps and Forward bearing supports, and Support for the spare masts and spars as well as Posts and belaying rack. The three mid Pins will be replaced with smaller ones
 

the grating cover of the main load hatch is and stays removeable
 

 
 

 

it is amazing how fast the dust settles in the open portside interior, Need to carefully brush it out now and then
 

all the aft cabin bulkheads are waiting to be set
 

it was always my wish and Intention to have a figurehead in cast brass instead of resin, it was impossible to get it anywhere, acc. to Chris Watton Amati would`nt do it because they favour resin, but I would not give up..., so now after Research and activity I have my own prototype one in scale 1/64 and it fits very well and gives the model a Special note
 

 

 
 
 
Nils

am exercising with the channels right now, but thought it would be best to mount the side decors first. The etched Amati decors are very precise and I can imagine for those building the kit the Position and size of the gunports are readily given and cut out, but when building to plan, one has to place those gunports absolutely exact, otherwise the decor`s outcut spaces wont fit properly
 
 
Nils
 
 

the etched decors were brushed over with a fine grit to get tem shiny again and then sealed off with clear varnish
 

all fits into the scheme well
 

 
 

main mast starboard channel plate, underside, 2mm three layer ply
 

topside, shall see how the angle Support bracket fit best later on, and where those are to be spaced, so the do`nt hinder the deadeyetackles