edmay

Finally a bit of an update!
First photo shows some shaped pieces at the bow. In my eagerness to finish and install these and the fancy trim overlay, I forgot to take pictures and these pieces are virtually hidden now!
 

 
Next up were the catheads and trim, made from basswood square stock.
 

 
I used copper sheet to cut strips and fashion the brackets that hold the catheads down.
 

 

 

 
Everything is assembled.
 

 
Then installed on the model. I used copper wire to simulate bolts.
 

 
Here's a bow shot with catheads installed and bow braces and trim pieces.
 

 
This picture shows the copper brackets blackened with liver of sulphur. I used EdT's method of soaking them in acetone first, to clean and remove any coating that may have been present. Then I dipped a small paint brush in dilute liver of sulphur and applied to the brackets in situ, followed by a water rinse - it worked like a charm!
 

 
Just a slightly different angle.
 

 
That's it for now.

Another small update.....
 
New additions include the vertical strips of wood on the hull mid-ship. I'm not sure of the name or function of these timbers, but I'm wondering if they could be for protection of the hull when the lowering of the ship's boats? 
 
Also added are more ornamentation pieces, such as the eagles and the piece at the top of the gallery door.
Now to make these same pieces for the port side.
 

 

 

Working on the Capstan. I drilled out the holes of the Corel Capstan and squared them up.


 
Installed the base for the capstan

 
I removed the large base from the Corel capstan, added the 6 vertical pieces and shaped in-between.


 
Installed the capstan to the base

 
Finished capstan

Hi friends!
 
At last I finished with the gunports and cannons.  Initially I was tempted to follow the idea of Mattie´s about letting some of the ports closed or semi closed but after seeing the movie of the Vasa sinking and knowing that apparently one of the reasons the ship sunk was because all the gunports were open, so I decided to show all of them in the open position.
 

 
 
Saludos, Karl

Hola a todos:
 
Finally I decided to place the gunports for the cannons. Initially I had no plan to add the rear (holding) ropes and put only the ones that are in the front, because I had not a clear idea how to do it. The solution was to dip the yarn in diluted white glue and dry it vertically until hardened.
 

 
To put the door in place, and having the hole for the yarn ready, the operation was very simple.
 

 
Saludos

Hola amigos:
 
After sanding, staining and varnishing the masts and spars I started to assemble the bowsprit placing the topmast, masts, blocks and tops.
 
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Because deadeyes are partially tucked into the top I decided to make the shrouds separately because otherwise it would be more difficult to hold them.
 

 
To put the shrouds between the masts I leave unglued the topmast cap.  This operation is contrary to the normal way of doing it.
 

 
Saludos, Karl

The main wale and upper wale at the port side are on.
I have planked to the top.
When I was finished with that I wanted to see how it looks when there was paint on it.
But is is not funny when you are seeing it alone so I post a few pictures....
Beware....this is only the primer, not the real paint !!!!!!!
I know there is a lot of touch up but that's for when all of it is gonna get's the real paint.
Now I can go to the starboard side and do the same thing.......
But I know for now that it is a lot of planking !!!!!
And I have to go down to the keel also.
That takes a few months.....
It's for me a riddle how Mobbsie can do that so quick !!!!!!
I know....I have to go for work......
 

Thanks Dave, Nils, Scoot, and Pete, I still have a lot of photo to upload yet.
 
Scoot, I've been away from modeling because I thought I would try making some extra money woodworking. Made alittle, but not enough to make it worth it. I think I live in the wrong part of the country for that. I gave it a try anyway. So back to doing what is worth the effort, Shipmodeling!!
 



 

These are some pictures of the finished Hurricane House, and skylight in place on the deck.

Go for it, Nenad and don't worry about the boring phase.  You got what you were looking for and that is sometimes half the battle.  Have fun with the coppering.

Hey all! Finally things are going less hectic and I had a little time to build. The masts except the bowsprit are positioned and I made the bowsprit mast.  
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
/Matti

Not to forsake my Constitution build but I had the opportunity to purchase this kit while in Japan during the month of April.  A Japanese friend of mine picked it up on Japanese Yahoo for a great price.  It was delivered to his house the next day and I hand carried it back to San Diego. 
 
    The Japanese Cyprus wood used in the kit is outstanding and the laser cut parts are of the highest quality.  I quickly noticed that when sanding the wood there is a very pleasant odor.  Smells like Nana's old cedar closet.  The only downfall of the kit is that the instructions are entirely in Japanese.  Fortunately, there are not a lot of written instructions.  The instruction format is 90% graphics.  The packaging of the model is superb as seen below in the obligatory box / contents photos.
 
My goal is to complete this kit in time to show at next years 40th Rope Exhibition in Tokyo.
 
    The Higaki Kaisen (hee-gah-kee-kah-ee-sen) is an Edo Period cargo boat used from 1600 to about 1868.  Higaki was a Trades Guild in Osaka, Japan and Kaisen translates roughly to Cargo Boat.  During the Edo Period, Osaka was the center of the national economy and Edo, which is Tokyo today, was a big consumer city.  The Higaki Guild held the chartered right of maritime transportation of consumer goods from Osaka to Edo.  The Higaki-Kaisen were the sailing freighters of the Higaki Guild.
 
   The Higaki Kaisen hull structure has no framing.  Instead, its' hull consisted of only planking firmly joined with nails and clamps.
 
    I want to give a special thanks to Clare Hess.  Clare has helped me get this started and has provided me with numerous photos and information on his build.  Thanks also to Don Dressel who just completed his build and has provided me access to his model.
 
      Bob R.

I'm with everyone on this.  I generally plank from the wales on upward before I do the lower sections.  It's there that I divide into belts.  So leave what you have. Your first layer of planking merely serves as a solid underbase for your final planking giving you a smooth, evenly flowing base.  So don't be afraid to use some filler if you need to....and sandpaper is your friend.
 
Between the dvd's and the tutorials on here you'll master the technique that's best for you.  Every one on here learns with each new build and (hopefully) gets better.  Start that build log and don't be afraid to ask questions if you're unclear on anything.  MSW can be a great resource.

thanks Pete,  Ed and bob    almost to the point of planking the upper deck........I can do the front area,  but you know how it goes.....I like to be able to do the whole enchilada (not that I had Mexican tonight......just 'ole American clucker}  
 
yes Ed........I'm still trying to figure out what the heck it is I'm doing........as long as the admiral doesn't start squak'in about me clutter'in up the joint.......I'll keep doing it  
 
yepper Bob........I should be jailed for having this much fun.  with the way this world is going........I'll take my fun where I can git it    I'll follow your prescription........Dr. Bob!  
 
thanks for all the likes.....I know your all speechless.   I'm a real boy wonder...........everyone looks at me and wonders........is that a real boy!  

Hi Denis,Your dockyard is producing some fine  works of art,a modern armada,a fleet of sorts,your imaginative  use of different materials is inspiring giving food for thought,keep up the good work.Edwin

the dash was painted the same color as the interior.
 

 
going back to the back wall,  there was a thought to box in the windows,  to create the doors for the helm
 

 
the other window was sized to fit the frame
 

 
the back wall was installed......but first the interior was painted.
 

 

 
....and the exterior was painted in signal red
 

 

 
I have the life boat from the Nordkap booty........the insert for the interior of the boat is not laser cut.  so I began to cut it out.   the card it comes from was curling in the opposite direction from what I need it to......go figure........so I clamped it in the boat to see if I can persuade it to go the other way.  not that this really matters.......with it totally trimmed and cut out,  it will become a bit more flimsy.  it's printed on 1/16 thick stiff plywood.
 

I have a few pictures from last Friday.    the floor of the helm is planked after the lower part of the inner walls were painted.    this is an argent gray.   the floor has been sanded.
 

 
then the dash was put in place just for a look see.   the floor has two coats of lacquer.
 

 
I began to make the back wall.
 

 
the dash was cemented in place
 

 
I tossed around the paint scheme.   thinking that it would look odd with the two tone look,  I went with a solid color.   I was going to accent the windows in white,  but noting that the port holes below are brown, I have to stick with that.  not a big deal in my book  
 

Nautical Research Guild Summer Issue is in the mail.

Become a member and get it delivered to your front door every 3 months.

 

Here are some highlights including the table of contents.

 



 

 
3D Printing and Model Ship Building
by Patrick Matthews
 
USS Arizona
by Oren Long, Jr
 
The East Indiaman Edwin Fox of 1853
by Ian Poole
 
A French War Brig
by Richard Simon
 
Coppering the Fleet and an American Entrepreneur
by Louis Arthur Norton
 
Building HMS Isis of 1776: Highlights of a Multi-Year Project
by Byron Gore
 
Modelers’ Gallery
 
Shipbuilding Literature in the Netherlands (1671-1838), Part 4
by Ab Hoving
 
 
SHOP NOTES
Making Dowels
by William E. Sproul 
 
MODELERS’ REVIEWS
An 8-inch Shear from Harbor Freight Tools
by Steve Wheeler
 
The 3D Elbow Bender from UMM-USA
 
Click here to read one of the articles....
A French War Brig
by Richard Simon
 
And here is a look at at one of the models featured in this issue.
Click on that photo to enlarge it and see what a great model Byron put together.  Its stunning.
HMS ISIS
by  Byron Gore
 

 
For more info on the Journal and the NRG please visit the website.

Help yourself ... wheel from cigarette lighter ... tomorrow I'll make better one


 

 

 

hello Robynn,Nice to see you back modeling,sounds like your in for a very busy summer,best of luck.Your upper planking is looking great,Edwin,regards to Craig.

Hello Denis, Just awesome ,11 out of 10 for artistic effort,you did a fantastic job of her.pm you soon.Edwin .

Frank:
I use a clear plastic ship's curve to draw the plank shapes when I spile.
 
So far it looks good. I would run that entire upper strake of planks before overlapping with the second strake planks. It will probably make it easier to keep the lines of the planking running smoothly. Also, run a plank on one side, and then its opposite number to the other side. Avoid running too many planks on one side. That could result in some distortion of the hull from one side to the other. It is something best avoided by planking the hull evenly from side to side.
 
Russ

A little update time as to what's going on ........ Well ,  I finally got started on the spiling process and I must say I really like it. The only real problem I ran into was finding the right pen that writes on the clear tape. Pencil did'nt work , so I ended up using a  Sharpie ultra fine , works
fairly good ( sometimes ) . This takes a little more time to do, but the end results are worth it. Here's a couple pictures showing the first couple planks at the bow.
 

this was the first plank set on the stbd. side
 
 

I don't know if you can see the tape laying across the frames, but it's there, you can't see where I traced the shape of the plank because the first pen I used was too light. but after tracing the shape, the whole tape was transfered to the basswood sheet and cut out with a sharp blade.Then a little shaping is done  to fit.
 
 

this shows the second plank set, ships curves came in real handy for drawing out planks shape, impossible to do without them (at least for me).
Well that's it for today, hoping to get a few more done tomorrow. Thanks for looking in.
 
Frank

a little update:....... the hull has been faired up, and now I'm lining off the hull for the planking. I tried soaking and bending some reg. stock
planking, but it was almost impossible to make it lie flat on the curvature at the bow, so I decided to use Chucks tutorial on planking. His explanation of how do to it was right to the point . He was so good at explaining it that even I could understand it . I tried a sample spiled plank and it layed beautifully, so I ordered  some sheet bass and spruce, I'm waiting for that to come in then I'll begin the planking. For lining out the hull, I tried using art tape,Tamiya masking tape, blue tape, frog tape, and nothing would stick , so I ended up using string and reg masking tape to tack it down.
I ended up with four bands..... the first three are pretty even from bow to stern.... the fourth is the widest and sweeps up pretty much at the stern so it's going to take some creative planing there I'm showing a couple pictures of the bands, if they don't look right I'd appreciate
anyone's input. Right at the bow it measures 20mm, I could drop it to 25mm like the rest of the band.... that way I could use 5 planks without any tapering for the first 3 bands, or should I leave it alone. Any thoughts on this???? Thanks
 
Frank