modeller_masa

It was tough work.

Thank you for watching my project and see you next month again~

There are some confusing points in the manual. It is better to check real photos everytime.

The deluxe kit has two different sets of helipad net fences. Their shapes are a little bit different.

Add this railing. It isn't in the kit.

The two antenna masts are the most delicate and complex part in the kit.

The 3D printed resin parts are flexible and vulnerable, so I had to be very careful.

Don't forget the masts are straight when you attach ladders.

This is my 2,094th mistaek...

Not all the supports are removable. Always check real photos.

The second mast is more complex. I forgot to add the C15.

Ok... the last part is the radar assembly. 😬

I've tested several acrylic (Plexiglass) cases.

My final choice was an order-made case with 3mm thickness.

I'll add 3D printed corner supports.

Unfortunately, I measured the height wrong, so I ordered a new case. The price is $20.

3 hours ago, Winnie said:

1/200

In my opinion, 1/700, 1/350, and 1/200 big scale models are different classes, like the boxing weight classes.

I'm making many mistakes on 1/700 scale models, but they are not visible thanks to their small size.

1/200 scales have only a small tolerance to fold PE parts.

I think 1/700 scale ship models are good for fast and easy introduction kits.

Walkthrough #1

This is a really difficult kit. Most parts are interconnected with other vertical floors, including PE railings and stairs. I need to check every pages of the manual again and again to avoid a critical mistake.

The next project is 1/700 Ticonderoga class cruiser USS Bunker Hill CG-52 1991 Gulf-war version from Flyhawk.

Before I started the modern US Navy ship kit, I inspected a new acrylic paint set.

AMMO ATOM is a brand-new 2024 water-based acrylic paint to compete with stronger environmental regulations.

It appears to be the most recent and advanced high-quality paint set.

However, the color selection of the ship color set is not suitable for ship models.

(From 1950 to present US NAVY ships and submarines, Lifecolor CS-52)

This is the closest color set to Snyder and shorts' paint chips I've ever seen.

In this project, I used Lifecolor UA-655 and UA-656 colors.

This kit has several tricky waterslide decals.

I used a laser cutter to cut half-inch sized circles.

Not bad... The burned edge of masking tape was very rough. Should I use my Silhouette CNC paper cutter?

Deck and decals are done.

Temporary assembly.

I also made a custom handling grip. I can't build any Flyhawk kits without the handling grip.😎

Comparison with Martlet Mk.II (Academy 1/48 Wildcat F4F-4 + aftermarket decals)

I'm collecting the folded-wing series.

The Airfix Seafire kit is one of the best Seafire kits with a complete folded-wing option. In other words, it is quite a complex kit. Not for a weekend project.

I had a big issue with Airfix decals. I used my favorite GSI-Creos Mark Softer, but it literally melted the Airfix decals. I lost the starboard side decals. 😪

I had nice results from the Tamiya Markfit series.

The assembly was nicely done. I had only a few polishing works.

Also, I'll use a gloss finish. The matte finish didn't look realistic compared with pictures from museum airplanes.

Picture in Picture

A farewell to arms.

I'm taking more pictures...

Walkthrough #2

I don't like waterline kits because I have to make a diorama, too. This magnet stand is my simple solution to the obsession. 😎

I'll show you more variants when it's over.

I tried to paint each planks in different colors. Brushing was so boring work...

I made special nozzle caps for airbrush, but the result was not significant.

The final attempt was stamping. It was super easy, so anyone can do it.

However, the color selection was too vivid. It looks like a German BF109 camouflage pattern.

For the next project.

I applied thinned grey enamel paint to reduce the high saturation and brightness.

This is a summary of my deck painting. I may not need the thinned enamel next time.

The next project is HMS Invincible 1914 from Flyhawk. The model number is FH1311S deluxe edition.

When I started this project a few months ago, I wanted to build a full rigging model.

I have studied the aerial antenna spacer and tried to make a 1mm (1/16 inch) long asterisk-shaped spacer.

Unfortunately, my attempts didn't work for several reasons. I admitted that I couldn't build the 1/700 antenna spacer yet. This is the reason I built the HMS Naiad without any riggings.

I'll build the HMS Invincible without riggings, too.

Here is my personal study about WW I RN ship colors. I simply modified the 507A I've used at the Naiad. This is a pretty rough assumption and not based on facts, so please don't mind the source of my colors.

I mixed new colors from the Naiad formula. This will be a simpler project because she has no camouflage pattern.

Let's build a handling dock.

Very comfortable and useful. 😎

It's done. I'm not sure that I will build the Trumpeter 1/350 Naiad next time. See you soon!

Ok... All Quiet on the first funnel.

2nd funnel.

I'm varnishing the gloss surface. I'll wrap it up tomorrow.

!!!!!!! I made a critical mistake.

The funnel was reversed !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Fortunately, it isn't a model-reset fatal error. I'll buy one more kit and replace the part. The shipping will be 1~3 weeks.

Walkthrough #2

This is a daily walkthrough. There is nothing new to report.

The trumpeter's painting instructions are the same as the 2012 GPM 1/200 card model kit. It is better to ask Roman Cholewiak, who made the GPM kit.

Because of the geological and cultural distance between East Asia and Europe, it is difficult to follow the most recent research on the European models. Please understand that this build is for fun and fast building as a beginner. The next project (Trumpeter Naiad 1/350 kit) may be one step better than this.

+

Before I started this project, I found that the Di-do class cruisers are one of the most controversial topics due to insufficient data. I wanted to build HMS Sirius, but now I take a step backward and am waiting for new kit, which should throw new fuel on a Di-do fire.  

I designed and printed handling dock for painting the upper hull only.

Also, I resized the painting guide sheet to trace the camouflage patterns.

This method is very handy and fast. Not perfect, but 95% accurate.

Here is the final result. 😎

I made a larger handling dock for cruisers. It is simply a bigger version of the 1/700 destroyer docks I've used.

This is the first time I seriously paint the WWII RN ships. The kit is Flyhawk - HMS Naiad - 1/700 - FH1112.

I used two main references to understand the camouflage patterns.

The GPM 1/200 scale card model kit offers almost everything I need.

Also, I mixed 90% percent accurate colors. The color reference is from Lifecolor RN set.

(Source : https://web.archive.org/web/20241107004340/https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/pages/royal-navy-periodic-table-of-paints )

The research pages of the Sovereign Hobby were the best of the best. I became familiar with the USS camouflage scheme at the site. 

Unfortunately, the Sovereign Hobby shut down last year. It is a reason I relied on the Lifecolor paint. I thank them very much. 

To ensure that the entire RN fleet in the future matches well, I'll use the same mixed colors for future RN kits. 😎

Here is a result. I applied AK super chrome alcohol paint and added LED stand.

My major client should be happy with this project. 😎

This is an USS Ward DD-139 1941 kit from Flyhawk. I tested some new ideas.

I've completed assembly before I paint it.

14 minutes ago, Landlubber Mike said:

the mast alignment technique

https://thenrg.org/events/workshops

I found the source. There are three "Strategic detailing" online workshops presented by Chuck Bauer.

38 minutes ago, ccoyle said:

German East Asia Squadron

And Royal Navy East Asia fleets in 1910s also had similar grey color paint. I think your sources are right. It is better to follow the first color scheme in the Flyhawk manual.