modeller_masa

Thank you, Bob. I've never heard about the "Japan drier". The Japan drier is a dilute version of cobalt lineate, and the Liquin is alkyd. There is one more drier, "LEAD naphthanate". https://products.richesonart.com/products/copal http://langridgecolours.com/cobalt-driers/ When I tested the wood grain technique, I found that viscosity is an important factor to keep a clean grain pattern. I've tested several Liquin series, from fine detail to impasto, which have different viscosities, and concluded that the Liquin light gel is the best application for this case. The Japan drier seems to be a more legitimate speed drier for oil paint, but I may need additional gel medium to maintain high viscosity.

I've researched several wood grain techniques on Youtube and practiced them, and I've concluded that the oil paint-interdental brush is the easiest and cheapest one for everyone. None of the acrylic paint techniques were as simple as the oil paint technique. Even though I tried acrylic paint retarder to simulate the characteristic of oil paint, such as high viscosity and long drying time, I felt it is too delicate for every people like pasting water slide decals. I was making a tutorial video of the oil paint technique before I encountered this issue. 🤕 Yes. The worst feature of oil paint is that it takes months to dry. Too long drying time isn't good for scale model work, especially the plastic model kits. https://www.winsornewton.com/row/masterclass/exploring-liquin-mediums/ My solution is Winson & Newton Liquin, which speeds drying. It cuts drying time down to 8 hours - 3 days, which is incredible. Ok. I finished antifouling the hull. Thank to eveyone for providing such a valid solution and a wealth of interesting knowledge. I'll post the video of the super easy oil paint technique with an additional varnish guide.

Yeah, the third one in the picture is very smooth and dried well. The Golden MSA spray is easy but expensive. In addition, shellac is very good with lacquer spray. I'll apply matte transparent lacquer spray over the shellac layer at the very end of the building. I won't forget to test it before I apply the last spray. In addition, I've read some strict scoring standards regarding scale model contest. When judges of model contests grade scores, they also check the wood grain pattern because it sometimes makes an inappropriate scale effect. For example, large and complex wood grain patterns of the cherry wood POF model are a penalty. It is a reason senior modellers are looking for non-grain woods such as boxwood and pearwood. It might be too quick to be picky about my materials, but several inexpensive plywood based wooden model kits I've built frequently showed odd grain patterns that didn't look well. "The builder's model" scheme is my favorite. 😎

Thanks to Bob Cleek's idea, I began antifouling work. A mineral spirit, which is the best for enamel, didn't work, so I'm using lacquer thinner, which is stronger. The lacuquer thinner also removes acrylic paint base, but the coated paper hulls bear it well, fortunately. Also, thank you for your concern for health. I have a fan-ventilation paint booth and am wearing a big gas mask. It is the best way to protect myself in the given situation. I found appropriate oil varnishes. The second picture shows exactly same surface that happened to the hull. I bought a new cheap lacquer spray from a different company, and I guess a different ingredient caused the issue. The first picture is a Golden MSA lacquer spray, which is the most expensive one. It works just as well as my old, cheap lacquer spray can from different company. The third picture is a Zinsser dewaxed shellac liquid. It also made a durable surface with no issues. This is only 12 hour short term test. I'll be watching how they're changed. It is a bit off topic. I applied shellac to any wood parts before I applied an oil based gel stain. I believed that the wood conditioner would make surface more flat, so I could paint it more uniformly. In my opinion, the method of applying shellac is determined by the purpose of the painting. I want to remove the grain pattern on a wooden model, so I use shellac as a wood conditioner. If someone wants to show explicit grain patterns of raw wood, shellac isn't good choice. Making furniture is most likely the case in my thought.

@druxey Yes. I respect the water-oil paint rule, but I sometimes feel that I can use a water based paint at the first-primer layer. The Shipyard cardboard kit combines elements of both wooden and plastic model kits. Painting is essential to completing this kit, like a plastic sailing ship model kit. According to general painting guide for plastic kits, I used a clear gloss lacquer spray as a middle coatings between painting layers, which gives a protective surface and prevents blending each layers. The final coat of varnish will be a clear matte lacquer spray. The matte varnish tends to include stone dust, so it doesn't help in the middle of painting work. Uneven surfaces result in the additional painting layer with irregular staining. Of course, I'll apply another matte varnish because the lacquer spray made this accident... I can't tolerate it if this thing happens again at the very end of assembly. 😱

@Jaager Yes. It is a cardboard model from Shipyard. I didn't mention shellac before acrylic primer. I always use as much shellac as possible on all of the parts. The color of the acrylic primer was tan or flesh, and the color of the oil paint was brown. I needed two colors that contrasted each other to draw the wood grain pattern. The previous painting works were ok except for this entire hull. If I have to remove the acrylic primer, I need another tan-colored paint that doesn't interfere with oil paint or enamel. Previously, I had no problems with the lacquer spray for industrial. I used a lacquer coat to protect the oil paint surface from further assembly processes. My last works were fine, and the parts were smaller. I didn't try using shellac as a oil paint-varnish because the lacquer spray worked very well. I'm baking some oil painted test beds to try a new set of varnishes, and I'll add the shellac to the list!

Thank you so much, Bob! I gave up trying to repair the cracked surface and began sanding the entire surface with 800 grit sanding paper. 😂 One of your answers is very promising, so I'll remove all the oil-surface with lacquer thinner. It is definitely easier than sanding work!

I have a question about oil paint varnish. This is my first time using oil paint. I applied paint layers like this. I used Winsor & Newton Liquin medium to accelerate the drying of oil paint. The entire model went horribly wrong once I applied the lacquer spray. 😱 It didn't happen when I tested the oil paint and lacquer spray. How can I fix the cracked surface? which oil varnish should I use in this case?

It is super easy and only time-consuming trick. Even children can do better than me. Thanks to the newly learned skill, I'll try building plastic sailing ship kits in the near future. I'll upload tutorial video while I'm waiting for the oil paints to dry.

I carefully sanded the 1st planks. It is essential to successful hull planking. And then, I found my critical mistake. The 104 part should have been glued before the 105~116-1st planks. Because I glued the 1st planks in the wrong position, further hull planking and related parts were affected by the huge mistake. 😱 The second planking is done. As you can see, I couldn't use the guide lines on the 1st planking. The second plank was positioned incorrectly, resulting in an uneven wale lines. I guess the 114 parts are wrong. It is good to sand the bottom of the 114 to make the keel an even thickness. I added wales in the wrong place. This is the opposite side. 😭 Another wales. Patching before painting. It is the end of the second planking. I glued 139 to start painting. I'm using oil paints with Winsor & Newton Liquin light gel, so it will take a few days.

Welcome aboard, GrandpaPhil! Due to poor instructions and less readable part numbering system, I missed some parts in the previous build log. Fortunately, they are not important parts. I strongly advise new Shipyard kit builders to take pictures of all part sheets and print a parts check list. I missed these parts. 😱 😱 😱 😱 😱 😱😂😭🤪 The kit's instructions said that this kit has three planking layers. Actually, it has five planking layers. This picture shows the fourth planking, which is equivalent to the first planking layer of common wooden model kits, so I paid more attention to the fourth layers before I install the last-fifth layers. It's not the last process of the first planking... 😴

(Winsor & Newton Liquin Light Gel is the best to harden oil paint within a day.) I agree with Chris' idea. For young people, painting is difficult to learn and time consuming. Before I painted the wood grain patterns, I had to a lot of research, which took a lot of time and money. This kit is more than 10 years old, so it would be better to launch a new painted-laser-cut edition to attract newcomers. I'm ready to go hull planking. It was so much fun thanks to super accurate model, but the instructions were wrong or omitted important parts. Because the other things are nearly perfect, poor instruction is the only notable problem with this kit. The second issue is a painting.

https://www.amazon.com/Ships-Christopher-Columbus-Santa-Anatomy/dp/1557507554 https://www.abebooks.com/servlet/BookDetailsPL?bi=31405429196&searchurl=isbn%3D9781844860142%26n%3D100121503%26sortby%3D17&cm_sp=snippet-_-srp1-_-title1 Here is another link to the AotS book at $55. When you receive the book, your question about the forecastle will be solved. Oh, I can't wait to show you a cheat sheet. The AL Santa Maria is a type of Nao based 1990 replica, which is one of the three kinds of Santa Maria in the AotS book. The plan you bought before may be a galleon Santa Maria. They are very different ships. Good luck on your build!

Hello, This is my new side project and the second cardboard model kit. The Shipyard makes the top premium sailing ship cardboard model kits. I have some words for their unfriendly manual, but the quality is better than the wooden model kits I've built. If you don't mind painting wooden patterns on paper planks, this is probably the best kit for building high quality model at a low cost and in a short amount of time. By the way, this year I'm not talking much, unlike the last year, and am focusing on experiencing as much as possible. I found the latest Papegojan build log in 2013, but the pictures were unfortunately gone. This build log will be mostly photos. If you have question about a specific part, feel free to participate in my build log. https://alexey.baldin.space/?p=1 If you are looking for a better build log, this site will help. Kit's error 1 Kit's error 2 The manual is hard to decipher... Make sure everything is in line. My ship is twisted again. 😭 Tan color base The kit's paint had dried like a stone. Oil paint and an interdental brush. Winsor & Newton Liquin medium helps reduce drying time. Yellow Deep 3 : Brown Earth 1

Yes. I use the J Tech laser g-code plugin for Inkscape.

Exactly. An air compressor is mandatory to cut any material thicker than 0.8 mm. The Sculpfun brand offers all accessory options including the $55 air compressor, and it works pretty well. The assembly is a bit tricky, but it is definitely better than raw aluminium pipe cut models. These are options I purchased with the S10. Nevermind the software. The software isn't free. I'm using LaserGRBL, which is open source and free. The LaserGRBL does most of Laser CNC cut. I use an open source freeware Inkscape to make a vector gcode.

I bought a Sculpfun S10 laser cutter with some accessories at $500. It uses a 10W output fiber-laser module, which consumes more than 20W of electricity. The cutting performance is equivalent to commercial kit and more sharper.

I made a bucket using the same method. I used a false-bucket structure.

I don't like barrels in kits. It requires heavy paint work to make it fine. I have a fiber laser cutter, which can cut cherry wood up to 6mm. It is so useful that I already packed my Proxxon table saw. Also, I bought some thick cardboards for my next project. The brown paper on the picture is 1mm thick. I challenged to make a DIY cardboard cask to replace kits. I spent several hours for measuring, designing, and CAM. Now I only needed five minutes to print each cardboard cask sheet. The left design is final. It is very stable and easy to assemble. I used CA glue only. I spent about 15 minutes assembling each cask. After that, I glued a black paper strip and applied shellac as a varnish. I'll build another smaller cask in the same process. cask 31x21mm.zip These are my design files. It is free to use.

I received it and had the same issue. The wood conditioner bottle leaked. In addition, some contents are changed in the Jan 2023 production. I am really satisfeid with David Antscherl's quality instructions and kit build.

That was nice application of cloth pegs, Spyglass. Good modellers are not picky about tools. In the first plan, I missed action and reaction force, Jaager. The bolts could easily shatter planks if the inside of planks doesn't have adequate support. It is a reason I started thinking about clips.

I advanced the draft idea a little bit. It uses the structure of cheap steel C-shaped clamps, which are made of pressed steel plate. The cost of each C shaped clamp is about 50 cents. I don't have metal bending tools, so I tested my idea with wooden pieces. It seems nice, but the depth isn't enough with the mini tip. Fortunately, the hard maple wood was very durable. I added a modification. Now it has replaceable tips. Also, I can adjust the height of both ends. Finally, it works. OK... then... Where can I use this jig? It is still complex and not very handy, in my opinion. Building a new tool was fun, but I need to polish the experimental jig a lot...

Thanks for pointing out my intention, David. It is a vision of the "planking clamp tool," and sometimes I draw more specific concepts to materialize the vision by calculating engineering stuff. Same idea, different approach. I tested the hair clip, but the spring wasn't strong enough. It seems better. I'll test the structure. Also, I ordered a "long mouth spring clamp" to test the same idea.

While I was frustrated by the uneven planking surface, I had a dream... It could be more fun, faster, and fantastic if every clamping task was as simple as designing a 3D model. I know many people use rubber bands instead of the heavy steel stuff, but I need more universal clamping tools for every angle and perspective.

Congratulations! It is a tiny shiny gem.