modeller_masa

Hello, MateusPL. Sorry about delay. I've been busy playing some games. I upgraded my PC to edit movie, so I've played old games. 🤨 I ordered a Greek trireme from Maris Stella on April because it appears to be the most like the ships in the game. Unfortunately, the company may not have any stock, and I'm waiting for re-production. 😪 Back to Santa Maria, I found that a new feature of the SM N kit is quite difficult and delicate. I had several issues when I scrapped wale bars. It is important to keep an angled position. Without proper grab position or exact width of a strip, the microscrapper will bounce and make a deep scratch on the strip. This is the main reason the microscrapper is derailed. (1) The tool's side edges scratch side of the strip and force my hand to shake. The second reason for the derailing is the width of the strip. The strip must be exactly 2.95mm ~ 3.00mm wide. When I scrapped one narrow strip which had 2.90mm wide from both ends, the rail didn't match at the center and made it ugly. It is good to use the narrow strip for other places. Some wales need to be clamped due 3D complex curved hull. Don't scrap the wales before bending. The clamping made the moulding pattern dull. Finally, I attached 3mm wide masking tape to the polished wale bars. The grooves are weak and gather dust easily. There were lots of mistakes, and still lots of things to do. I have to fill some gaps with wooden filler and stain them. I used boiling water and a pyrography iron to bend them. Because of the twisted hull, I extended the curved wall at stem. A little trick to mark the curved wall. I used 3mm wide masking tapes. Sanding and polising. I don't remember when I last used a protractor. I just made a paper protractor. 😎 2.0mm masking tapes again. I added fake waterspouts to hide the dirty corners. 😎 The jobs at stem are almost done. Sanding, polishing, and staining.

I'm sorry I didn't post continually. I had lots of trouble at the end of the hull planking, and I hadn't summarize my mind yet. Instead of neglecting a build log until I catch up on a backlog of homework, I would like to update the current status. I have a plan to re-summarize the entire planking process at the end.😘 I gave up trying to polish all the troubles from the hull planking, and advanced to the next stage. I'm installing wales. It is relatively easier than planking. I attached masking tapes to protect the stained planks from bonding. It is hard when the curve is drastic. We know how to deal with it. It is too wide to use 3M scotch tape. I simply used a paper. Even shipyards use water vapor and clamps. I simply put the strip in the boiling water for 5 minutes. d I used the mini iron to speed up the process. I set the temperature at 150℃ (300℉). 😄 I'll explain omitted processes later.

I think my real question was "how to caulk the planks of the hull". In this case, I wanted to remove the caulking line by staining it in the same color. It seems like a higher cost and more time. 😱 I will try the black planking caulking next time.

Thanks for the professional advice, Jaager. I have some oil - solvent-based paints such as enamel. I didn't know it works on PVA glue. By the way, does the dark walnut color of the hull imply that the model ship is on a voyage? I would say that a model ship on a stand is in dry dock, too. In addition, I tested the colored PVA glue. The adhesiveness became extremely low. Do not try this at home.

Hello, I have an issue with staining a hull. This is my current project. It looks OK... but when I zoom the camera lens in... Zoom in... Zoom in... I can see lots of white cracks between the planks like this. To cover the white cracks, I did everything I knew. I made DIY wood filler with extra strips and dewaxed shellac and filled any visible cracks, including cracks between keel and hull. I wiped the hull with wet tissue to remove any excess PVA glue. In addition, I stained the hull with oil gel stain. I tried to figure out what those white crack were and I guess that they are PVA glue between the planks. I would say that I can't remove them efficiently. If I use too strong chemicals such as alcohol, the entire planks may be detached. If I cut out each PVA crack and stain them again, it costs too much time... Should I have used less PVA glue when I attached the second planks? I don't want to make the same mistake again. /// Perhaps I will make a colored PVA glue next time... https://www.firstpalette.com/craft-recipe/colored-white-glue.html

I suddenly realized that a mini iron is better than a soldering iron for new builders. 🤪 Someone said that he got electrically shocked while he was using a soldering iron for planking.

I received the pyrography pen kit. Its price was $15. I updated a tip because I considered the new iron good for new builders in general. The only difference between a wood-burning iron and a regular soldering iron is the M4 screw bit converter. Fortunately, I confirmed that the converter also fit well in an expensive soldering station gun. The downside of this iron is that the minimum temperature is 180 °C (350 °F), which causes scorched marks on a light-colored wood strip. I need 150 °C (300 °F). In real life, I got a fairly acceptable result. I would say that I can sand all of the scorched surface if I don't burn it for too long. If you need a very delicate result, I recommend using an expensive soldering station that can control the temperature down to 50 °C. I would say that these tips are the best for hull planking. I ordered larger tips. I'll sand the letter and make it flat. It may not satisfy enthusiastic experts, but I definitely say that the wood-burning kit lowers the huddle for new builders.

When I cut holes on the back before I planked, I used sticker paper to measure the positions that I had made before. I used the stripe stickers as a ruler. It was a kind of puzzle and quite fun. It's done. By the way, the plank between the holes and the square hole is very weak due to its construction. I had to pay attention to the place when I planked. It may be good to add support inside the place. I added one more tip to make a well-polished curved plank strip. The tip also reduces gaps between planks. One more tip! I use this tip when I do spiling planking. At first, I drew an outline of the desired place with a pencil. I used the 3M green tape. After I attached the tape, I traced the outline with a wood toothpick. metal tweezer may cut the tape. Pretty easy and fast. It is 3~4 times more accurate than marking on masking tape in my case. I used to use sticker paper to make a spiling plank. Unfortunately, the width of the paper plank is wider than the stock strips in a kit. I have to bend the strip with a special tool. I used water and a leathercraft iron. I placed the strips in a plant stand for more than an hour, and scorched them with the iron. Without the heat and steam, the strip wouldn't have bent. The result was successful. If you need a stronger curved strip, I recommend using boiled water. After 5~10 minutes, the hardwood strip will be like spaghetti with a lot of water. Mission accomplished.

As a beginner modeller, I have been struggled with hull planking. One of my main issues was shaping a clear and sharp planking line like in the above picture. When I built a deck planking, I found that kits from some manufacturers or decades old kits had poor quality strips that had different wide. It is the main reason that the deck planking becomes ugly. Before I began a project, I selected same width and same color strips from a kit. Sanding paper or miniature plane were also good solutions to adjust the width of strips. The result was great, and I had no dissatisfaction with the deck planking. However, the 'curved' strips gave me a headache. I read some instructions and tried tools such as French curves, but they were time consuming or not effective in my opinion. I would say that I finally found a solution to the curved edge after years of contemplation. It is a very simple method. I used 3mm line tape. ( 1/8 inch whiteboard tape? ) The tape is thicker than the Tamiya or 3M 244 masking tape. I would say that 5mm or 1/4 inch wide tape isn't good for making a curved line, and 2mm or 1/16 inch tape is too narrow for this job. In addition, dark colors such as red or blue are better than lighter colors such as white and yellow. I attached the second plank strip. I used water and a digital temperature controlled leatherwork iron. This method consumes lots of line tape, but saves more time. I didn't push the blade hard. A weaker force made me control well against the wood grain. It was quite fun and fast to compare with my old process. Of course, the result was exceptional. I found almost no gaps between the planks. I use the same technique on the other models, such as the water slide decal on plastic kits. There should be a ton of ways to use masking tape beyond my imagination.

I finished the second planking with the third floor deck planking. I hoped to finish wales, keels, and the front deck, too. You can confirm that I lined off the lower hull between the wales and garboard in four sections. I used three butt planking patterns. I have some tips I learned and want to share them, but I spent several hours building this video... See you tomorrow. 😴

Hello Oldsalt1950, Isn't it a bit difficult to remove? It may leave torn pieces of paper or sticky adhesive residues. I researched rubber cement and it looks promising.

Hello, I made a template for lining off the hull. It is exactly the same as the usage of the planking fan template (https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23950-planking-tutorials-pdfs/), and I optimized the sequence a little bit faster and more convenient in my own way. Download links planking stripe template v1.pdf planking stripe template v1 instruction.pdf I have only built a few ships, so I don't know any other usage of the fan template or may misunderstand it. If you think this isn't better and quicker than the planking fan template, please let me know and I'll delete the download links. Any ideas that improve this template are also welcome. (ex: mm → inch unit) Have a happy planking!

Thanks for the compliment, starlight. It may look like a student teaching a student. Who will enjoy the scene best? Teacher! I appreciate your kind advice, Peter. As an 'open' project, I both value my personal satisfaction and audience's enjoyment. I hope you have a little break when you visit again. 😉 The finish line of a marathon isn't far off. 😎

0.5mm (= 500,000nm) Battleship Yamato Image source : https://twitter.com/hashtag/ナノ3Dプリンタ?src=hashtag_click Method : Kind of SLA 3D printer Material : UV-curing acrylic epoxy resin Companies https://www.optoscience.com/maker/upnano/ https://www.nanoscribe.com/jp/products/photonic-professional-gt2 https://www.optoscience.com/maker/upnano/pdf/NanoOne_DataSheet_jpA4_ver3_2008_L.pdf Horizontal resolution : 170nm (=0.00017 mm) Vertical resolution : 550nm (=0.00055 mm) Bed size : 100 x 120 x 40mm Weight : 124 Kg I definitely want the 1,000 times higher resolution 3D printer, but the price tag is over $350,000. 😲

I chosed any power meter image from Google that appears to be very similar to my own. I have both a 110v AC and a 220v AC power meter to measure any devices here. (SK is one of the countries that uses both AC plugs.) I tested them with a 220v power meter because they support free volts. I searched for the modified irons, and the articles were interesting. The iron for the modification has a temperature sensor in it, so the modification should work. I thought common iron, which are the cheapest, so I didn't get the idea. Sorry about that. By the way, I ordered a digital temperature control iron for $15. I'll update my experience if the new gadget seems helpful. 😆

Hello, Peter. It's my pleasure to invite both you and Moonbug, who wrote my best references for this build! From your speed of building and skillful results, I guess you're an expert modeler, and you may get nothing impressive from my buildlog. I'll summarize any differences between the old SM kit and this new kit I find, so please visit again if you're interested in it when I finish. Thank you again for writing the great build log again, Peter.

Hello, Roger pellett. Thanks for the kind explanation. I understood what Jagger was talking about. I imagined plugging the AL's cylinder tip into the Dremel router, so I thought he expected another unique idea from me. 😅 I doubt its functionality to keep a constant temperature in the case of the simple power output control with variable nob. When I tested the power consumption level of the digital leatherwork irons, I saw that the power consumption fluctuated from 0W to 80W very quickly. Without a temperature sensor and a digitally controlled power supply, I believe the temperature at the tip will rise, even though the power level is set to the lowest.

Thanks for the surprising comment, Artesania Latina. https://thenrg.org/resource/articles/ship-models-that-should-not-be-built https://modelshipworld.com/topic/31503-on-ship-models-that-should-not-be-built-chapelle-h-i-an-article-review/ The recent discussion regarding historical accuracy and freedom of expression led me to better understand this forum and the NRG's stance. Although the discussion left me stranded for a week, the slump made my goal clear. I'm a casual modeller who is easily satisfied with the model ship's exterior. I haven't worked any kind of maritime job, and my motivation is driven by the 30 years old classic video game, which sails the sea and trades merchandise in the 16th centuries. It was a kind of trading simulation where players handled only facial numbers of merchandise and the specs of various ships rather than real sailing. The 80x60 pixel ships contained only a few details, such as the number of crews, food, and supplies. My primary goal is to build thiry ship models in the game. The original ships in the game were only 80x60 dot pixels. After I started this hobby, I added some sub-goals for myself, such as building a museum-quality HMS Victory or the Columbus fleet (Oh!). The list will grow as I understand the structure and function of a ship. Therefore, I would say that all my projects came from a chain of questions derived from the 80x60 dot pixels. I understood that my rough opinions and questions I wrote could have made someone uncomfortable who lived on the sea. I am less motivated to build model ships whereas other hobbies fascinate me. The reason is probably that I don't have their professional pride and vast knowledge. I need a pleasure to build and make something rather than jump into deep knowledge to get a shipyard job. Will I regret my 30 projects after I finish them? Of course, yes. With the regret that I could have made them better, I'll show my collection to friends proudly. "These ships were in a game I played 60 years ago. It began with curiosity about 80x60 dot pixels." My projects may be centered on crafting models rather than recreating historic ships academically. The overall stance may look like the AL, but I'll dig into specific parts if curious things draw my attention. I can't make everything perfect at once because I don't have overall maritime knowledge. My overall skills will grow as time goes by, but they will never reach the level of the professional marine engineers or crews. I think it's fine for me. My small wish is that more modellers in SK build wooden model ships and discuss ship models together. (The total number of wooden model ship builders in SK may be less than the current real-time login members of this forum. ) I don't mean to push you to have the same goal. I believe that every member here visits this forum in order to achieve each member's goal and have fun. With respect, I also want everyone to accomplish each individual's goal and enjoy their unique hobby. Okay, let's return to the build log. I spent half a month on starboard and haven't finished it yet. Some members finish similar work within 3–7 days, and I have a reason to delay. I'm writing this build log to attract new builders. One of my efforts in this build log is to use fewer tools. The various tools and their high cost are a big obstacle to newcomers who are familiar with very advanced modern plastic kits, and any kind of "water" is a good reason to divert their attention from the "difficult" hobby. Many young and new modelers want to build quick and easy models with superior quality. I couldn't believe my eyes when I saw some comments posted by young modellers. They are scared of the 'scale models', such as cars or tanks, because they think the plastic runner's default color isn't good, and additional painting is too difficult. They love characters or fancy plastic kits like the 'Gundam', which has an easy snap-tight design with colorful runners and dry stickers. I don't deny their trend, and also agree that traditional wooden modelling is relatively difficult for them. To attract the new builders to the world of wooden model ships, I make things easier for them; I select and limit the tools they need to get started, or introduce more easy and useful techniques for each step. One of my failed attempts was the dry hull planking, which never uses water. I am satisfied with its quality, but I would say that newcomers may not like its slow speed. After the slump, I tried the AL's method on the other side. I finished the portside within 3 days! I guess expert modellers may finish hull planking within 2 days, and complete an entire kit within a week. What is the AL's method? Thanks to the high resolution PDF manual, I confirmed that the AL's sample ship is built with wet planking. The manual's example ship can't be done without water, but the manual doesn't explain it clearly. I didn't know this before because the old kits from AL didn't have the high resolution manual. As I said, I don't want to make a long -must buy- tool list, but I have to add crafting irons in case of using water. It works like a CA glue accelerator and makes your life more comfortable. I put sapele strips in the water and waited for an hour. Without the water, hard wood strips such as sapele (= an alternative to mahogani) and walnut will be broken. The black lines on the picture are the borders of each plank. In addition, I highlighted every plank by difficulty rate. In short, the blue planks mean very easy, and the red planks mean super hard and time consuming. According to the color chart, you can estimate that the green planks above the lowest wale are super easy with water and an electric iron. Without water and iron? You will see soon. 😅 This is a planking line below the wales. It seems pretty unpredictable and hard to follow. Of course, I concluded that I don't need to use the AL's planking. This is my project. Forget the blue and yellow planks. I placed dry planks (blue planks) first, then gave up to refuse water. Planking in a green area was so easy and a lot of fun. 😆 On the contray, I made more simple planking lines under wales. Although the planking pattern is far from a real ship, (A real ship means a similar ship exists in reality, academically.) I would say that new builders should use this planking pattern at least once. It is so easy and fast that new builders will be fascinated by building wooden model ships. Of course, they will find a better choice soon at last. 😉 How about the starboard planking? It was terrible. I love the result, but the 'dry' spiling planking consumed too much time. I concluded that the 'dry' spiling planking isn't good for new builders. I began to use water and iron, so the rest of the work won't be tougher than it. Before I sanded the portside planking, I washed the PVA coated surface with wet tissue. The glossy surface blocks applying varnish, so I have to remove the PVA gum on the second planking. I repeated rubbing the surface with wet tissue and 120 grid sanding paper. As I made a surface clean, I found many gaps between strips. Low resolution pictures can't show the defects, but everyone who watches real model will know the crevasse because the light yellow background is very conspicuous. I filled the defects with spare strips, and sanded the surface again. Experts who take a closer look with a magnifier may notice the small defects, but the overall appearance will be much better. I think I can finish hull planking this month! 😎

Hello, Jagger. I'm not sure I understood your comment well, but I have a future plan to build a ship that has RGB LED planks and illuminates like a Christmas tree.

Hello, I would like to share my personal experience with using different kinds of irons for bending planks. I purchased a curling iron (left) after reading some advice. I compare the irons and pick the best one for me. The first iron I purchased and built for bending planks was from Artesania Latina. It is basically a large cylinder-shaped head soldering iron. I coulnd't get used to it because it burns basswood to a brown color too fast. The issue is a temperature control. It would be fine if I could use digital temperature control soldering station and replace the tip with the AL's iron. The next irons I purchased were digital temperature control leatherwork irons. I set the temperature at 150℃ (=300℉), and got the best result without a burning mark. I was so satisfied that I purchased a curved iron, too. Both flat and curved head irons are useful for any kind of hull. This is the last iron I purchased. I thought it could be a cheap alternative to the leatherwork irons. It costs only $20, and the digital control meter gives me trust. However, the curling iron was so big that the temperature didn't spread well. I checked the surface temperature with a non-contact type thermometer and found that the heat source is fairly limited. In addition, the curved lid covers the heat source, so I can't use it as plank bender before I remove it. I saw many modellers didn't touch the iron on the hull directly. The design of the curling iron will fit the usage. In my case, I place a wet plank on the hull and sear it with the leatherwork iron. The curling iron's head isn't good for my usage. So, which one is the best? For me, I use leatherwork irons only. They control the temperature so as not to burn wood, and the weights are half the curling iron. However, I had to purchase two irons for every surface on the hull, including the curved stern. The curling iron is cheap, but I won't use it. I would say that a soldering iron with a digital temperature control soldering station should be the best. I didn't try to replace the tip of my soldering station with AL's cylinder head, but its lighter weight and small size should make my hobby more enjoyable. By the way, it is the most expensive solution. I hope you find the best tool to suit your workshop.

I remembered another great reference book. I had previously purchased it, but I didn't realize that the Mary Rose was a contemporary carrack ship. Fortunately, the book has a detailed hull lining based on the real wrecked ship. Although she was a warship type carrack, which has several differences, such as no wales on the back, the book definitely helped me because I couldn't find many Portuguese models on the UK's museum site. I didn't use Excel this time, instead relying on my eyes and example pictures. I haven't decide on all the hull lining yet, so I'll write my plan when I finish hull planking. I was a bit tired of planking on the lower hull, so I challanged the wales and planking between the wales. It made me have questions immediately. (1) When should I install the wales? After I install the second planking, I must sand the surface. The wales are higher than the others, so I have to install them later. Otherwise, slow masking work is waiting for me... (2) How do I install the wales? It depends on the structure of the model ship. This is a diagram based on my reference book. As you see, the real ship might be a single planking, and the wales and planking attached on same Futtocks. Based on my personal search of excellent build logs here, many expert modellers are in favor of the single planking hull. If they built a double planking hull, they also worked hard on the first planking's hull lining. I'm not sure why, but I'm guessing the border line is a hint for the second planking. Difficulty : ★★★★★ Labor : ★★★★★ Time : ★★★★★ Reality : ★★★★★ By the way, isn't it interesting that model ships have different structure from the real ships? Despite their similar exteriors, many models, including plastic model kits, omit details and interiors due to productivity and physical constraints. One of the surprising impressions when I became a member here was that there were so many experts like retired captains, crews and ship carpenters here. I liked an appearance of a sailing ship, but had no knowledge of details like the structure of a capstan. The gap happens in every scale model field, so I would say that the virtue of modesty and honesty to accept one's own limitations is necessary. The AL's manual shows how scale model simplify the real world. This method omit lots of details, but it is very handy and easy. Although the hull lining is a stereotype of the 'avoid', most people who haven't sailed on the ships won't know it. Difficulty : ★★★ Labor : ★★★ Time : ★★ Reality : ★★★ Please consider that this rating is personal and relative. 😅 This is my method. I attached the first planking without patterns, so it was relatively faster work than the No.2 . After that, I drew hull lining and am parallelly installing the second planking and wales. The result may be similar to the No.2, but the juryman is you. Today's post is a bit subjective, so please don't consider my opinion serious. 😘

I would say that 0.01mm or 0.0005 inch (=0.0125mm) digital calipers are enough for wooden models. There must be more accurate tools, but I would say that the digital calipers are cheap and convenient tools for wooden model. If it is a plastic or metal model, where the materials can be more detailed, the huddle increases astronomically. Please consider my opinion as a newcomer's short idea. I don't know the world of the expert modellers. If you were asking about the measuring accuracy of rulers, I use gage blocks. In my experience, I really don't need it frequently. When the zero digit is jumping, I press the zero button. When I tested my 0.01mm accuracy digital calipers with a gage block, I saw less than 0.02mm of errors and I was satisfied at that level. It was a reason I returned 0.1mm accuracy digital calipers. It revealed 0.1~0.2mm errors! In addition, I don't trust 0.001mm accuracy digital micrometers. It was the cheapest ruler, and it revealed 0.010~0.020mm errors... There is no reason to buy the cheapest one. This is the best (and the worst) ruler I used. I'm sorry I couldn't answer you.

Argh... I can read replies regarding measurable rulers, but it is hard to read replies regarding unmeasurable ruler literature. I can't partipate in all replies, but thanks to all for very useful and interesting posts.

I added test results.

Hello, starlight. The Lego blocks are also the best reference gauge blocks under no pressure. Hello, Dziadeczek. I moved the line of sight vertically both 0cm and 30cm. I'm sorry that the pictures I took may be confusing. I checked rulers manually, and only the old ruler was noticeably wrong.