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Egilman

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Everything posted by Egilman

  1. Well another short update, basic finishing is done, and I got her out in the sunshine for a few pics.... I'll let them speak for themselves... Time for decals.... The highlighted panels don't wash out in bright sunlight, they should have been a tad darker, but they are very close to the look I was trying to achieve.... Next up, Decals, they will be coming from the Kinetic set for the subject aircraft and from Print Scale for the technical stencils... There are a lot of them.... And the mail just told me my RnB order arrived at my mailbox a minute ago... I now have everything to finish this bird.... Onwards my friends... (and please tell me what you think of the completed finish, your opinions are very valuable to me my friends)
  2. {chuckle} Since I hold the strong belief brother that there is no such critter as a stupid question, Lou, I really don't think I'm ever going to hear one either... Although I do appreciate the sentiment my friend... But I will apologize for my somewhat oscinine commentary at times... (I never got accepted to miss Bedilia Trulane's charm school, (I wouldn't have graduated anyways) she considered me too obtuse) Any question you may decide to ask is welcome here... (hopefully I'll have a somewhat incisive answer)
  3. Thanks Alan... yes directly over the Future with frisket tape... (the frisket tape is the same orange tape you can get at Hobby Lobby) It gives a good clean edge.... Every bit as good as Tamiya tape.... And there are no stupid questions my friend....
  4. For the Stuka the maximum dive angle was 85 degrees, for the Dauntless it was 90... we must remember these were slow aircraft 320 knots clean.... They learned this with the Curtis helldivers in the 30's.... The SB2C had a max dive angle of 65 degrees, but then it was a 450 knot aircraft the faster the aircraft the lower the dive angle... The Stuka and Dauntless flown by an experienced pilot were deadly dive bombers cause they could go almost vertical... Jets, the F-105 & F-104 had a maximum dive bombing angle of 45 degrees... The faster they get, the lower the dive angle for bombing... Ken would know, from a vertical dive, what is the recovery allowance? for the F-86 it was 5500 feet... Don't know what it was for the F-4... And the planes are so fast today and using guided munitions I don't believe they do dive bombing anymore... No real need to...
  5. Well progress is going slow but I'm making progress... First coat of future is down and I've painted out the bays, Interior Green is the specified color... I also put the Pewter on the gun ports and tail support... Just pulled the masking and waiting for it to dry before I buff it out.... Looks to me like it is close to an accurate shade of polished steel, but we will know for sure once it's rubbed out and in the sunlight... I've got some RnB Ebony coming, (if it ever gets here) to do the inside of the tail pipe and aft shroud..... Anyway It may be going slow, but it is going... {chuckle} Onwards!!!
  6. Thank you OC, It's appreciated...
  7. That's my technique as well for the really really tiny taps, I got tired of replacing them.... {chuckle} Hand tapping very fine stuff is an art in itself...
  8. Thanks Chris for the explanation, I assume your using wire that is stiff enough to hold position against the slight tension of the EZ line... Sometimes the simplest methods escape you... sorry..
  9. OK, how do you keep the interplane struts lined up so accurately? If you don't mind me askin'
  10. In the Movie "The Train" Burt Lancaster (1964) gives a good demonstration of re-lining a locomotive drive rod bearing through Babbit pouring....
  11. Never thought of using Evergreen with a syrette, that's a heck of an idea... Evergreen can be thinned quite well and as long as air doesn't get to it it doesn't dry out that much.... (unless you leave it sit for a year or two)...
  12. You too brother, gonna make a list for the big guy, (don't know how much pull I got in that department but whatever I've got will be sent) take care of yourself....
  13. Absolutely brother, stay well.... I'll be mentioning you to the big guy tonight... Onwards! don't let them stop you...
  14. Short update Brothers.... Touchups are done, and I de-masked the canopy.... Hi Flash... No Flash... I think she certainly looks the part.... (and looks like a missed a couple of touchups) {chuckle} Easy enough fix.... Onward....
  15. Thanks Ed, I just finished the touchups and demasking the canopy, ready for The coat of future.... Pics in a few....
  16. Yep barely.... {chuckle} but then again I've been a bit under the weather as well for the last couple of days so it wasn't good all-round... anyway all's good for now...
  17. Similar to that old blue or green Revell plastic? Breaking parts was common in those old models using the early forms of styrene...
  18. There's one or two of us hanging around... {chuckle}
  19. There are about a half a dozen ways of doing it some easier than others, the object being to get an accurate base surface to measure and machine from... And yeah you can "adjust" the machining to fit the casting that's the "art" part of it... Skill and experience That is definitely an interesting build, a tour deForce in the art of machining.... Thanks for the link Rik... Those are about the size range of the SS Titanic engines... Massive beasts in real life... What's being lost is the art of it though and that's the real shame...
  20. My wise old toolmaker teacher advised me concentric cylinders first, then clean the flanges to assure your flanges are perpendicular to the bore... Less chance of mistakes that way... (and less work) Not too many willing to show the steps to accurate one-off machining anymore but then again everything is done by computer nowadays... Nice work....
  21. Absolutely, a basic CAT D-7 without the utensils, I doubt your going to find a specific tow version for the circus, what they did was buy standard and adapt it to the used they used it for... So a standard Cat with the blade removed would be historically accurate... Some of them actually went to the length of removing the mounting hardware but most did not... Ringling Bro's bought their first ones to replace the elephants for pulling the big top up... Which they did so well that they used them for all other pulling as well... I would go ahead and get the standard CAT and adapt it to your scene, just like the real circus's did... {chuckle}
  22. I agree Ken, He is/was a real artist with this one, and being a first release I imagine the technical aspects of molding have gotten better with time... This is my first and only Kinetic kit so far and I'm thoroughly impressed with it's level of detail... Especially for a first release.... I will eventually build another Kinetic Kit, and, as of right now I fully recommend them as 1st rate model makers... I may locate another one, and give it the full museum display treatment, (a few things I would have done differently for a better part alignment/fit) This kit deserves that level of treatment... The next installment is coming as soon as I get over the fever and shakes, I'm suffering from MSW withdrawals right now... {chuckle} Good to see them back up and online....
  23. It's a 2007 first issue Ken... The first kit they marketed.... Yes it has to be sealed, the finish although hard surfaced will come off rather easily with finger oils... Paul Cordyrette recommended future and when I built the P-51 I sealed it with a coat of future brushed on and allowed to thoroughly cure... It didn't change the look or reflectiveness any just darkened it ever so slightly.... So after I break it down and do the Rub n Buff touch up's it will get a coat to seal it in before I do the detail painting... It's such a realistic impression that I'm still amazed at it and I've been looking at it for a few days now...
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