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Egilman
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Everything posted by Egilman
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Russian T-62A Tank by CDW - Tamiya - 1/35 Scale FINISHED
Egilman replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Excellent wash job, a fairly new issue T-62, paint showing a bit of fade and the rust just beginning to show... Typical cheap soviet paint job... Maybe 8-9 months in the storage yard under the brutal Nizhny Tagil (Russian tank storage farm) sun.... -
Russian T-62A Tank by CDW - Tamiya - 1/35 Scale FINISHED
Egilman replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I'm here Brother, any specific period in mind? -
M3 Lee Tank by CDW - Miniart - 1:35 Scale - FINISHED
Egilman replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
VERY Very nice! Judging by the reddish colored mud, the well worn but complete winter camo, The winter war up around Leningrad in Jan '44 I would think... Well done my friend, very authentic looking... An early M-3 Lee lend-leased to the russians.... Impressive... -
Something I used to do to make windscreens for the ole guillow's balsa airplanes... Clear printers vellum heat bent around a form then using thin strips of balsa to create the frames... It's a great technique just be careful with the heat...
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Ok brothers... About ready to get back at this... With some sad news... As predicted, the resin frame isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the engine... That's only five days sitting on the shelf... I'm gonna have to either scratch build it and figure out a way to reinforce the frame, or a different stand... Probably a 1/8th plastic tube with a 1/16th brass rod inside.. Didn't even make it a week... Anyway, still need a few days recuperation, but I'll be getting back to it either this or the airframe in the near future... Thanks for following and the likes... More later EG
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Well you knew the reputation of GPM going in brother... They don't always adhere to scale fidelity, definitely a step below Halinsky and several others... Sad... But your part is excellent, a shame theirs isn't...
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Yep, that's a Hamilton standard geared hub not designed for a spinner.... totally different look....
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M3 Lee Tank by CDW - Miniart - 1:35 Scale - FINISHED
Egilman replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I learned over the years that buying for the display method intended was cost effective when purchasing... I've opened up a few of these before, it even more work that gives spectacular results... but doing one where you can remove the top to show the insides to observers is problematic, they generally don't last long... The lookers like to touch and that's not good for fine details... So I build for the shelf and buy the best kit for that intent unless I'm purposely building to expose the interior.. (but then it goes on a base in a locked case, no touching) And a British Lee/Grant in the Eastern Desert blown out by an "88" would be a fantastic diorama.... That kit would be perfect for it, just add the sand shields... -
Finials... Google Or, in the alternative, the lamp hardware section of any big box store
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Thank you very much Doc, it really appreciated... Currently taking a much needed break from modeling, the engine got a bit intense there for a bit... Will get back at it soon... Many thanks..
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Building a Medieval fortress - by Waitoa - Del Prado 1/87
Egilman replied to Waitoa's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
It looks good to me also, I think your right on the money.... The only thing strange? A three legged ox? {chuckle} And having a tank outside a stone façade with a Monk and Oxcart isn't that much out of place either depending on historical period... And mathematically, a 1/72 scale figure (25mm) would be an inch high, a 1/48th scale figure (38mm) would be an inch and a half, 28mm puts him right in the 1/64-65th scale range... That's why he looks close and fits the scene... 57mm would be 1/32 scale and a man would be 2.25 inches high... But heck, maybe it's the perspective, looking at that panzer in the background, he does look a bit small... -
Absolutely! materials and techniques are the backbone of this hobby, without understanding them and how to work them, there wouldn't be a hobby.... Look at the different materials used in painting artwork and the different techniques to apply it... The same goes for model building, master the materials and the tools to work it, master the craft...
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That, or they are coming to a quick stop from a run, the kind of stop that throws a rider over the horse's head if they aren't prepared for it..... (been there done that) {chuckle}
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When Horses and most 4 footed creatures are running like that only one foot hits the ground at anyone time, it was a source of serious speculation until photography advanced to the point where they could do stop motion photography and proved it beyond all doubt... Yes that pose is as natural as could be for a galloping horse... (in fact about half the time a galloping horse has no feet touching the ground, proven photographically in 1878) The Horse in Motion
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And an update.... When I last updated I had just finished the forward mount and managed to get it to stay up holding the forward compressor frame long enough to get a shot... Since I have finished the aft mount with the Aft Compressor Frame mounted, it's a bit more secure than the forward one is.... Next step was to get everything glued and painted up and see how it all works together.... I'll let the images speak for themselves.... Now on to detailing the engine... EG
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Oh that's great Doc, I though it was gone for good... SW is the ticket for this type of modeling, it's designed as a parametric (measurement based) modeler first and an image crafter second... The only other one I would recommend is Rhino, it's even more capable than SW, but but a LOT more technically oriented... For what we do, SW is perfect.... If I was modeling a ships hull I would jump to Rhino, other than that I stay in SW...
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Thanks Very much Ken... And Scratch Building is becoming a lost art in a way... Making your own parts by hand is something the younger crowd doesn't seem to be into anymore... I love to show the techniques and learn as many more as I can... If I can pass it on that's a bonus...
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Short update... Modeling the front engine support.... First off we need the half ring.... Using the chopper, I cut it in half.... then set about building up the engine supports.... And finally, testing it against the resin forward compressor frame test piece... It Works!!! Although I will probably have to glue it cause there just isn't enough strength to hold it in place... Anyway, we are moving forward slowly but surely... On to the Aft support which should be easier...... EG
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Well, RL always takes precedence my friend, that is just how it is... we all know that... Downloading files is good to learn how to print but I'm sure you know the greatest use is to create your own... What I'm thinking on doing is loading up the free version of sketchup and throwing together some simple shapes in SU to get the program usage and ideals of 3D from 2D revealed plainly for all to see... Then maybe a little bit of the reverse engineering techniques of taking a picture and creating a model... Getting the explanations of how it is done out there for everyone to see with the basics of technical drawing is all it takes... It is not hard... The main problem is everyone wants to design and model that supercar or that airliner... People can learn that way, but I have always found that a simple bushing or alphabet block shows the techniques and communicates the vision of converting 2D into 3D much better, the rest of it is just common sense... Would that help? Thank you for following my friend, such is always appreciated... EG
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M3 Lee Tank by CDW - Miniart - 1:35 Scale - FINISHED
Egilman replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Well the tracks were kept tight on this system, they had to replace them most often because of track stretch rather than wearing out... Being one of the first double pin track systems, they still had a lot to learn, but they were infinitely better than single pin systems.... Yeah the pins are real delicate, any way of getting them around the bogies and sprockets that works is a good idea especially since you don't have to worry about track sag.... Me, I usually give the kit tracks a look see, then replace them with aftermarket, but that's just me.... -
That line is a no-step line so it would be larger than the actual port cover.... And the two perpendicular lines extending from the front of it are indicators for the refueling aircrafts boom controller.... Nice work Dan...
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M3 Lee Tank by CDW - Miniart - 1:35 Scale - FINISHED
Egilman replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I found with tracks like that, canopy glue works best, the last set I did I used gator's grip... I wouldn't go near them with any styrene or CA glue, it wicks way to easily and that's not what you want.... I suppose thinking about it you could get away with gelled tube glue applied with a needle that would eliminate the wicking problem I guess... The tape idea is a good one thank you for that... -
I think your selling yourself short Lou, trust me if I can do this anyone can... It's just copying pictures and drawings onto a screen and having the software turn them into 3D... it really is just that simple... I mean the software takes a bit to learn but the process, once you understand it, is relatively simple... As far as being a masterpiece? Thank you for the complement, but being a masterpiece remains to be seen, I still have to detail and reprint the engine yet, long way to go and I'm still learning the process... The complements are encouraging, and I thank you and everyone for them, but the final adjudication is yet to be seen... We are getting there, slowly but surely....
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I could do that in a number of ways Mark, in fact I've already did such with the engine a bit to make it printable... I'm going to run with this one for now cause I need to get back to the engine then the airplane... But, I may go back at a later date and revise it again and see if I can get something completely printed that will work... Thank you, it has been a learning experience...
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Thank you OC, illustrating the zigs and zags of the process is worth the effort.... There are different types of resins, some more pliable than others so no it isn't a stupid question. Basic resin is brittle especially after being cured so you have to pick and chose what your going to model with it... 100% resin works for some things but not for others... Especially not for structural parts, so I'm viewing this as a tool for making the fine details/small parts that need more detail... and scratching out plastic for those parts that need the strength and resiliency that styrene offers... Start doing the research brother... I'm sure once you learn how it works you'll wonder why you didn't earlier...
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