Egilman

Those are some fine looking M1919A1's.... great molding work to produce those...

With two J-79's and afterburners? who needed wheels? {chuckle}

Thanks Ken, These aren't those kind of drugs my friend, simple pain relivers... I have TO 1F-86F-1 & 2 as my data manuals I also have the illustrated parts breakdown for the aircraft... TO 1 is the flight manual and TO 2 is the maintenance manual... Maximum mechanical swing for the flaps is 50 degrees, maximum operational swing is 45 degrees... They were either open or closed, there was no middle setting for the flaps... And being electro-mechanically servo operated, there was no low pressure sag either... The flight manual says that as soon as they were on the ground and below 80kts they were to set the flaps to lock, (full retraction) when taking off, once past 140kts again set to lock... They were only used to supply low speed lift, at speeds higher than 140 kts they destroyed the handling characteristics of the airplane... Now the gear doors and speed brakes were hydraulically and pneumatically operated respectively, without the engine turning, they were always hanging open... Normally closed.... Agreed Lou, except I have the straight skinny right out of the book for this one... No doubt about it, Brother Ken is the man in the know on this stuff... As far as fading the paint from black to blue I don't have those abilities quite yet and haven't struck on a good way of doing that... so one will be gloss black and the other gloss blue angels blue.... What little I've done with RnB says that is the way to go... Still in the beginnings of learning to work with it here.... Sprayed them about an hour ago, (spent most of the day dealing with Dr's) As soon as they are dry will be metalizing them in silver and we will see if there is any real difference... The P-51 I did was in flat grey primer when I did her....

Yep that was a very busy beast....

That is a massive aircraft in 1/32 scale.... I"m in...

Oh brother are they working... loopy as heck right now... {chuckle} Thanks... No need to stretch to specific moment in time.... I've glued them in the up position, the way they should be in real life... (it's the way I usually build representing real life... I couldn't do it any other way and be me in all honesty) So she is ready for gap filling and finishing... But beforethat, I'm going to do the RnB on the extra 200 gal. drop tanks they so graciously provided... (not used on the aircraft I'm depicting) Now Paul Cordryette explained that you can change the appearance by using different base paints, super shiny finish you use gloss black, dull you use flat black, you can also vary the hue of the finish by using different colors... So, one will be blue based and and one will be black based, lets see how much difference there is in the final finish before I apply it to the entire aircraft...

Yep, it's old school I know but also the easiest, fastest way to do it... Thanks brother...

{chuckle} I'm just second guessing myself brother... Up is they way they should be... Just kidding myself thinking it should be otherwise... Probably the drugs I'm taking for pain... (yech)

Balance counterweights to stop stabilizer flutter in a dive...

Ok my friends, Moment of decision time... Flaps up or down? They need to be glued now before I do the final filling and sanding if positioned up.... 98% of the field photos I have show them up, they are only down when landing, taking off or under maintenance... all other times they are up... The reason is they were electro mechanical in actuation, they had a two position switch in the cockpit, up or down... The pilots manual says once on the ground you reset the switch to neutral, (up) Even the maintenance manual say the same unless your repairing them... I've read some stories where occasionally the pilot would forget this and leave them down and would usually get commented by the crew chief about it... But it does look attractive with them down, that's the draw... I guess I'm answering my own question aren't I? {chuckle} Here is where she is at material fills sanded down.... It's time to make the decision... What do you all think?

Beautiful build brother... So precise.... What I wouldn't give for those gluing skills... They are so important to building in paper...

Thank you Ken... I do have a bit of a supply of that material layin about here, might as well put it to use {chuckle} And thank you brother I can use all the good word with the big guy I can get... nil desperandum my friend, nil desperandum

1/72nd scale anchor chain... https://kilokits.com/products/model-ship-anchor-chains Looks a bit small to me I, what I would do is measure the gap between the lips of the anchor winch and divide by two then order the correct size...

Nice shot brother... she is pretty... All of the Sabre's were a beautifully designed aircraft.... That one has been europeanized and has the Martin Baker ejection seat... (that is why the canopy is sitting flat when opened rather than it's pronounced forward slant... Thanks brother...

A good flat coat will take care of the shininess of the decals, but don't get any on those brilliant canopies... Excellent Build very impressive especially in that scale...

I would go along with Mark's suggestion, the larger one will be more appropriate for the size of the ship US Destroyers and Destroyer Escorts used 14' to 18" link chain...

And another short update... The wing roots.. The left wing root is the one that will have it's leading point cut off for the open Ammo Bay door, so the adjustment will be on right wing root... Creating the dihedral closed the gap about half way, leaving a little more than a paper thickness gap... A piece of .015 should easily fill that gap... Testing the idea.. Nice.... And it feels solid... The big question? what does it do for the left side.... The tiny gap is gone.... Excellent! now to glue it in and shave it to profile.... I love it when a plan comes together... {chuckle} And I hope I ain't boring you guys as I'm pretty sure all of you have done exactly this process before... So I'm posting it for those modelers that don't know how to do this, explaining it to someone works, pics work better... Thanks Brothers for being patient and following along.... EG

Short update, Filling the gap... well I showed you why I needed to cut off the center fuselage tail from the wing, when I heat bent the wing adding the dihedral it shrank the fuselage tail about a 1/16th of an inch... (accurately measured, not as bad as it first looked) My cut was a little off (crooked) So I straightened the gap using my knife and created a flat to glue filling strips to... .060 = 4 .015 strips I laid them in like this... Gluing each successively and using my tiny scissors I trimmed them close as each one dry... Once they were all glued and dry I test fitted the wing to make sure the joint is filled and tight... That works, a solid block of plastic once sanded smooth a skim of Mr Surfacer 1000 and I should be good to go... A lot easier than it initially looked... Onwards... Next up checking the wing root gaps....

Thank you Alan, No problem, I'll get there sooner rather than later... I'm glad your finding my little experiments useful... It makes it worth it....

Thank you Mark, it was a rude awakening for me, but the Oncologist seems very optimistic with the outcome... Like this is no sweat... I'm hoping I'm reading him right... Thanks Ed.... Thanks Jack. You too OC... Thank You! I have high hopes Dan, I intend to keep on keeping on... maybe a bit slower, but I'm not going to quit that's for sure... Thanks Lou, Prayers are welcome, with the big guy on my side how can I not survive this... Right now the Admiral is taking it harder than I am... such is life... I debated for three days wether I wanted to mention it or not, thought I would cause there was a few time I was a bit loopy and wanted to make sure I didn't say something stupid cause of the drugs I now have to take for the pain, they work well as long as I am consistent with them... I'm glad it's working for your family and friends, it makes it easier to believe there is a longer term outlook... I will survive this... Thanks everyone, I don't want to turn this away from it's purpose, but I thought it would be better if you all knew just in case... your support will be a great help as we get this figured out... Onwards with life, onward with the build... Update in a few...

Thanks Jav, I've broken way too many off in the past and the recurve of the fuselage into the horizontal stabilizer is a major headache... Yep, much easier to put them on last...

Just a suggestion brother, the fabric covered tail surfaces, I would use a tint to darken then about a half shade... They were painted dope and weathered out a hair darker than the bare metal... Beautiful paintwork my friend, it's going to be a real beauty....

Thanks Brother... Exactly, it needs a stable solid fill and the only way to do that is add material... Plastic stripping is the way... Putty will shrink over time and destroy the finish.... Agreed my friend... and I remember the decal issue from your build... (and your very nice, well executed fix for it...... The decal position is from the point of the flap to the ... to the upper corner of the hydraulics service panel and about 6" behind the cabin vent.. (showing under the tail of the open canopy) the Fuel Filler Cover is centered in the yellow stripe... As far as the instructions, yep they are incorrect, so, for the markings, I will be using walkaround images for most stencil placement and historical photos for the markings... But another thing it reveals upon careful study... Many of the scribed panels on the model are incorrect as well... The major panels are good, it's the access/maintenance panels that are wrong... I'm not going to fill and rescribe, that is too much work so Ill go with the flow place the decals in as correct a position as I can and forgo black basing, they do not need to be highlighted anymore than they will be naturally..... As an aside, thanks for the reminders my friends, please keep them coming when you see one... RL is trying it's darndest to stop me but this build is kinda keeping me going... My wonderful docs gave me a difficult birthday present last weekend... The big "C" don't know where it originated from but it's there... So if I seem a bit loopy or forgetful please understand, this is a temporary situation and I will beat it eventually and we caught it early I've been told... So please bear with me as I beat this thing... The doc seems real confidant that once they identify it they can kill it... Thank you all and keep the suggestions and reminders coming, they are a big help in keeping me ontrack...

Yes that angled line is where it breaks... I'm beginning to believe that this model was designed to be shown split with the tail on it's dolly with the engine hanging out the back... The fuselage thickness from the aft half to the forward half has too many thickness variations to match up perfectly... I'm gonna have to sand away most of the surface detail to get them to match smoothly... I'm gonna try and fill as much as I can but I'm not going to destroy it's looks with too much sanding... I probably shouldn't have added the dihedral to the wings even though it would be noticeable... I think I'm gonna tack the Gear Covers ,Canopy & Speed Brakes in place with canopy glue to do the finish... There are only two places that need a darker sheen to the surface, the two gun panels of course and one that lines the tail under the horizontal stabilizers, the rest is aluminum... Maybe I'm being too critical.... Filling and sanding up next.... The gaps in the wing roots are small and at this distance aren't that noticeable, even up close they can hardly be seen... Still debating on flaps down or up, Speed Brakes open or closed.... I haven't found a image I like yet... Anyway, this is where she sits right now.... Onwards...

Update... The plastic shrinkage issue.... I cut off the fuselage tail from the lower wing section, a pretty straightforward cut across the fuselage just aft of the landing gear bays.... To illustrate the shrinkage issue, I fitted the wing and the fuselage section into the positions they will take when glued together... See the gap? That is how much the plastic shrank with only about 5 minutes light heat... That gap is almost an 1/8th inch... I already checked the wingspan to see if that changed and no it didn't... (thank god) Sometimes we get lucky... This is a formulation of styrene I've not encountered before... Most styrene will just sag and melt in heat, this styrene shrinks before it sags... Fortunately, this is easily fixable, I think I just dodged a bullet... {chuckle} Sometimes we just don't know what we are dealing with.......