rhephner

@Bob Cleek Thanks for the thorough explanation. You've opened my eyes to new possibilities for paint I didn't see before. I appreciate the response.

56 minutes ago, kurtvd19 said:

When I developed the Badger line of Marine paints I matched the colors to Snyder and Shorts Paint Chips.  I  have no idea of the accuracy of the MM paints.  But it doesn't matter if the two don't match and you probably don't wish to repaint all the MM covered areas.😊

Thanks for the reply. For what it’s worth, the Badger looks more accurate. It’s darker. But you’re correct, it would be very difficult to say the least to repaint now.

I guess I naively thought that O-5 gray would be the same color no matter what brand. It should be based on the same historic paint color right? Not even close.

On 7/1/2023 at 9:32 PM, Nunnehi (Don) said:

I’ve got one bottle of 5-O ocean gray MM # 2157 that may be useable that I’ll be happy to send to you. PM me with your address. 
 

I will die mad about what MM did!

 

Don

 

 

Thank you Don. I PMd you

A couple of years ago I bought several jars of o-5 ocean gray paint from Model Masters. I’m now close to the end of my project and almost out of paint. Problem is, Model Master is discontinued. I replaced it with badger brand o-5 ocean gray, but it doesn’t match. 
 

any suggestions for how to match the paint? I really can’t repaint everything.

Thanks! I did not include the first two strakes in the lower belt. However, your build log is making me realize I'm not off as much as I thought. That helps me gain the courage to keep going.

I also plan to steal your idea for plank clamps.

Hello All, 

I'm working on NRG's half-hull planking project to bring my planking capabilities to the next level. However, I'm stymied by the planking belts. I've completed the first plank above the broad plank, but it doesn't look like I can fit three more planks in that belt without them being veeeery narrow on the bow end. If I increase the size of the lower belt, then I'm afraid I'll end up with a smiley face. The picture below illustrates my problem. You can tell be the marks that I've also redrawn the belts several times. Suggestions?

Just curious is anyone has any experience with Worx Makerx tools. I'm particularly interested in the airbrush, which appears to be battery operated and doesn't require an air compressor. Seems too good to be true. They also have a heat gun, rotary tool, and soldering iron. All working off the same battery system.

https://www.worx.com/makerx/makerx-crafting-tools.html

Rich 

I'd like to vote for the octagonal method. I've tried the homemade lathe/cordless drill method, but it can take a lot of sanding to get it to where you want it (depending on the wood). What I do now is take a regular old #11 blade to carve down the ends using the octagonal method and then sand it round by hand. There is a fair amount of eyeballing to this method, but you'd only be able to tell if you checked it with your digital calipers. 

Regarding how well the copper tape sticks, I've had trouble getting mine to stay put. It's not the most adhesive stuff in the world. Admittedly, I've done little to prepare the surface as suggested. I usually fix the issue with a dab of CA at the ends. 

Oh wow. That’s awesome. Thank you so much for researching it. I’ve looked at those pictures before, but totally missed it somehow. 
 

Thanks Talos

Hadn't heard about Bainbridge. My understanding is that they used the Kidd. https://www.military.com/off-duty/2020/07/07/true-story-of-uss-kidd-ship-used-film-greyhound.html

I enjoyed the movie even though they used a Fletcher and square bridged one at that. That left me joyfully proud of myself that I had caught the error. Still, I thought they captured the spirit of the Battle of the Atlantic, consistent with my reading of "The Cruel Sea", even with some artistic license.

Rich 

This is a fascinating build. I’m not much of a car guy, but the attention to detail on these kits make them look like a ton of fun to build. From reading up on them, I was under the impression that they were mostly metal and rubber fastened together with miniature bolts, hence the high price. But I see a lot of plastic parts and CA glue in the build log. Are they really mostly metal?

Thanks all for the replies. You’ve convinced me to try to replicate with a fine grained sand paper. I’ll probably paint it the same blue as the deck, maybe a shade darker. 

I knew someone on here would have first hand experience. Thank you for sharing it. Nunnhi, thanks for the photo. I hope mine turns out as well.

Hi All, 

I'm slowly but sure working on a scratch build of the USS O'Bannon in 1/144 scale and have a question about the deck. So far, many areas look a little plain, particularly in the bow just behind the anchor chains and windlass. I'm wondering if I should include seams for the deck plating or in some cases, I've seen pictures where there is a "pathway" of a slightly darker shade that seems to go around the deck almost like a sidewalk painted on the deck. 

Any ideas on what that is and whether it would be appropriate for the O'Bannon?

Here is an example:

and another:

(Sorry if I'm getting the terms wrong. I'm not a native speaker of Naval lingo.)

Thanks.

Nice build. Looks very clean. Is that card stock or polystyrene?

I'm no expert so take this with a grain of salt. I would be tempted to try to put a bit of solder on each end of the wire. The tricky part would be doing that without the white metal melting. Maybe a soldering iron vs. a torch would give you the control you need.

Resurrecting this old thread. Had the same problem this week. I tried to order the first of the swan series. The order appeared to go through fine, but no confirmation email and no credit card charge. I also sent a follow up email to check the order status. No reply. It’s scary to send ones credit card info into a black hole like this. I think MSW members should be cautious with Seawatch books.

Thank you Gentlemen. This helps tremendously. First, I'm glad to know that my thinking was correct on the photo. Second, you've pointed me to some great resources that I'll take a look at. 

This is the 3rd ship I've built and I still don't feel like I have a good grasp on all of the lines. It's amazing how intricate the system of lines on a sailing ship of this period is. It really is an impressive thing to study.

Rich

1 hour ago, Jim Lad said:

Sorry Rich - no photo!

 

John

My fault. I added them

Thanks for the reply. I’ve attached a photo of the rigging plan with a notation on the spirit sail that seems to indicate a line from it to a yard arm. In the box photo there are several lines that go from yard to yard. I highlighted them. This is confusing to me because I don’t know what they would be for and I don’t see any other notations or mentions in the “Ship Model Builders Assistant”

Thanks and Happy Easter.

Hello All,

Now that I'm spending all my time indoors, I have a lot more time to spend on my Rattlesnake build. However, I'm stuck on rigging the yards. Using "The Ship Model Builder's Assistant" as a guide, I'm got braces, lifts and slings for each yard. The problem is that the rigging diagram provided with the kit (MSW) and the picture seem to indicate that there should also be lines that run from yard to yard. For example, from the end of the main lower yard to the fore lower yard, and from the fore lower yard to the spiritsail yard. That doesn't seem right to me, because I would think that would restrict the movement of the yards. 

Am I missing something?

Thanks.

Rich

Wow. Thank you so much for the pictures. That must have been quite an experience to serve onboard a Fletcher. From the pictures it's clear what you mean about it be a flush deck. It also appears that there is very little camber to the deck. Certainly not as much as indicated. As Jbshan has indicated it would appear there are some lines missing.

I thinks what I'll do is match the height of the frames up to the sheer plan and go from there.

Thanks!

Hi,

I'm starting to work on a scratch build of a Fletcher class destroyer. The attached plan from Strike Models is what I'm working from. I'm having a little trouble interpreting the the build plan. Mainly the difference in the deck line between the left and right. If I cut each frame according to this diagram, won't the deck be really steep in the front? For example, frame G on the right has a much higher deck than frame G on left. Is this really the deck?

Thanks.

Rich

Those are some fantastic chains. Did you solder them to stay closed, or was the bend itself enough to hold them tight? Did you use a jig?

Nice work! I wish mine looked half as good.

Rich