Kusawa2000

If waiting for a new part is going to be lengthy why dont you use the broken part as a template and draw it on the remaining wood on the sheet. then using a table saw, or a hand saw, cut it out of the sheet and then sand it to the shape you need... there is nothing worse than waiting for replacement parts. I have had to do that a few times.. more for parts that went missing (wheels off a gun carriage that disappear into a carpet).
 
Mike Draper

Well here is a update on my Winchelsea if any one is interested. I filled in between all the bulkheads with balsa wood and started to send the bulkheads and balsa down to shape. Once I got it close enough to the finally shape, I made some water line templates with height stand's to help put the template at its right height and then marked for sanding down. Take's a little longer but help's keep me from sanding off to much. 

I am now waiting for some extra parts from CAF. The quarter deck guns are missing from the contents of SESSION #5. The brass barrels are there, but none of the cradles to mount them. Tom is sending the missing parts as well as an extra set of ropes for the anchors, as I need more for the presentation of the model I intend to do in the future....(distant future).
 
In the meantime, there is still plenty to do and I put together the last four 32 pounders guns: 
 

 
These are installed at the bow: 
 

 
I am not covering that section yet, as I need the extra set of ropes, before closing the lid.
 
Overall views: 
 

 

 

 

 
Still plenty of work left on the main deck.....
 
Yves

All eight guns have been installed. I have implemented some of the rigging used to roll back the guns for reloading. Again, these details may be visible from the outside and contribute to the quality of the model. Nothing is provided in the kit. Parts were sourced from Model Shipways.
 

 
The 12 mm belaying pins are also provided from Model Shipways and are made of wood. The CAF Model kit does not provide anything.
 

 
Aerial view....
 

 
The Upper capstan is coupled with the lower one and they both spin in synchronization.
 

 
At this stage, I can start installing the beams that will support the rear quarter deck.
 
From the outside of the hull: 
 

 
Hmmm... I may need to sand a little bit that upper wale..... These pictures are too revealing....
 
Overall view, that is where we stand. The model weights a little bit more than 13 pounds at this moment (poop heavy...as you can guess). 
 

 
Yves
 
  

Mike Draper

Hey Gary: Yup..  I have been working on the Agamemnon way too long but I can say Im close to the finish line.. thank god.. the last few months have been a slog. Adding sails to her was a not my brightest of moves.. but I do like how she looks. I have been getting all of the Winnies chapters and parts installments collected and keen on starting but I do need to get the Agamemnon finished. I have some flags to make, anchors to rig, and some stern lanterns to install. And I do need to get the woodshed filled for next winter as well. Its nice cutting firewood in the summer with the long days rather than being in a rush in the fall while its threatening to snow.
 
But I do agree Chuck has done a amazing job on this project and I cant wait to get started. I agree the installments did help keep the sting out of it.
 
I will definitely keep a eye out for your build and I will be posting my Agamemnon when she is completed and also when I start the Winnie. 
 
Take care and good to hear from you
 
Mike Draper
 

Well I have finally pulled the plug and decided to start a build log on building the Winchelsea while also working on my 74. Why some will ask, some  times it's nice when you don't have to make all the parts and piece's, but she still have a lot of parts and pieces to make along with the ones that Chuck makes for her. Some call her a kit but I would say 50 50, and  to me it still takes as much skill and understanding to build her as well as a 74.  May take a little time to get her up and running but am working on that.  I can't seem to find the answer to how long , wide and thick does the build board need to be? I came across that the hull length which is 38 inches so a  length of 42 to 46 inches would be just about right. Tomorrow I plan on going to have the plan's blown up to a 100 percent which should help me figure out the size of the build board along with other question I have, and then I can start cutting and make the bulkheads along with the her Bulkhead former.  Glad to be aboard. Gary

After 4 years (with a two year break between) my journey and this log for the HMS Vanguard is complete.  I'm not taking it any further, as I originally stated there are no masts and rigging to be added.  I've included some final photos and hope they might offer some help for others building this model, at least what some options look like or perhaps what not to do.
 
As I said at the outset, this is a really big ship even at 1/ 72th scale its over 3 feet long and easily 3 times larger than my other models.  I had wanted to build a 72 gun ship, I won't want to again.  The Amati model is very complete all the fittings (generally at least 2 extra of any given one), plenty of the various wood, and well etched metal and wood parts.  The plans are very complete, even if at times you have to look between the instructions, the extra and very helpful extra booklet on the hull and the many large plan sheets, most full scale.  Everything needed in the level of detail needed is included in the kit.  It's just big.
 
I made little attempt at historical accuracy.  I put so much effort into that, including getting copies of original plans and multiple books, on my HMS Pegasus I just didn't care this time around.  It's relatively accurate, I've tried in this log to call out where I went off-book.  For finishing touches I attached the anchors in the same way I did on the Pegasus, so that required some minor modifications not in the plans.  The hammock netting also isn't included in the plans or the kit, I picked up a yard or so of "material" from the local JoAnn's store (fabric and sewing store in the US).  I had tan, white, and black and like with the Pegasus decided on the black.  
The photos show I need to re-align some of it on the stern which was added months ago, and straighten a few gun tackles. Other things, such as howser rope and minor touches came from experience building past models.
 
So, here are a few photos to show the completed model.  Its no where near as shiny as the photos make it seem, just a result of my camera flash bouncing off the paint.  

It will be a long while, if ever, before I start another model.  If I do it will be something completely different and smaller (like the Echo cross section). So after seven completed models I think I'm done.  Building these models has certainly provide me with many hours of enjoyment, I hope it will for you as well. My log is complete.

I am trying to finish the outside of the hull and add a few details which are not included in the kit. This is done in a much easier way, without any of the guns installed.
 
First the holes used to lift the gun-port lids. Even though the kit provides for all lids and associated hinges, no rope is provided to build that feature.
 

 

 
The holes are about 1 mm in diameter, which may be a tad too large for the real ship. The Anatomy of the Ship book is not very generous with details.
 
The next holes will be the scuppers, used to evacuate the bilge and deck waters. COREL shows their approximate location on the plan of the Bellona kit, but CAF has no mention whatsoever. I will be using COREL instructions to install the six pipes on each side.
 
Yves

Yves: Thanks! 
 
Mike Draper

Thats cheating....
 
Like the Capstan and stove there are plenty of little pieces.  But having this made of boxwood really does add a lot to the model if done well.
 
That goes without saying...but for these mini kits there are two other secret weapons.  They may seem obvious but it is often overlooked.
 
First....Keep it clean....Wash your hands thoroughly first.  Like you were going into surgery.   Keeping tiny parts clean is so crucial.   Use lots of sand paper.  Meaning as soon as it gets dirty with char, throw it away.  Otherwise it will just dirty up all your parts.  I went through so much 400 grit sandpaper making the lantern.   Removing the char carefully without getting it on my fingers and spreading it around.
 
Second....magnification....when making these small fittings I use the strongest magnification possible.   You can only see when its 5" in front of you and this helps a lot.  Great for tight joints on small parts and keeping your parts clean.
 
The lantern probably should have been a bit higher but I couldnt bring myself to drill through the boat carving on the stern.   I drilled for the bracket through the water instead.  This proved to be a mistake after looking at it for a while.  So since these pictures were taken I moved the lantern higher and filled the hole in the carving.  Its much better now.   And you cant tell I ever hesitated.






I have a ton more construction photos and will be processing them soon.  But while working on the model I have now fallen so far behind with rope making and other parts I will be very busy for the next week.  So no more building for me.  
 
But this just leaves the headwork.   From the photos of the hull above that is pretty much what the finished hull will look like since you cant see the headrails arent completed.   I have to write chapter 11 as well.
 
Chuck
 
 

Yves: Thanks for the response. I have looked at the decals and wondered if they were water transfer or some other process. Never thought to use Future floor policy as a sealer. 
 
Mike Draper

Mike, yes the decals are water transfer, like regular decals. They are simply a lot thicker than what you find in plastic model kits. By the same token, they are also more robust. 
 
To apply: I use Future Floor Pledge as a base coat, to make the paint and the wood more receptive to the flat surface of the decal underside, I place the decal, let it dry and coat is with another light application of Future Floor pledge, by brush.
 
Yves

Yves: So, the decals arent water transfer decals? I still cant get my head around how you apply them to the hull.
 
Mike Draper

fore topmast
 
The work here was quite similar to that on the main mast. Stay and preventer stay were changed to one step thinner thread than on the plans.  Again the preventer stay was installed above the stay as the kit's plans show. In the meantime I found that not only Lees, but also Zu Mondfeld have it the other way around. But I stuck to the decision to follow the plans,  wondering if the kit's designer (Chris Watton ?) perhaps had different information on this.
A fellow sufferer once explained that he likes some tasks that much, that he repeats them several times. Same here with upper jeer blocks and mainstay. The plan had double blocks for the jeers, which I cheerfully installed only to find later in Lees that I would need triple blocks - I changed them.
While I worked on the fore topmast stays, I wondered about those holes in the knightheads on the beakhead - and slowly realized that the main stay collar should lead through them! OK, I unrigged lashing and collar (some fixations were made with CA but I could cut and scratch that away), threaded the collar in the knighthead, the whole bow works and the other knighthead und set all up again with - would you believe it - hardly any swearwords.
For relaxation I installed the missing gunport lids on the upper deck.
 

 
standing rigging of topmasts done
 
 

 
bow with rigged topmast stays
 
 

 
maintop with triple jeer block
 
 

 
mainstay collar wrongly rigged
 
 

 
...corrected and fore topmast stay in place
 
 

upper deck gunport lids

OK, I have just about finished the Indefatigable stern area, and am happy with how this looks, not too austere but not too plain.
 
The PolyBak parts are not glued, but just lying in place. The columns between the lights/windows are 0.6mm pear. 

Brilliant! Made me chuckle!
 
And here is Indy next to the Speedy!

This photo gives a rough idea of the size of Indefatigable to Amati's 1:64 Victory.
 

Time for a quick update. This will be the last one before work starts very shortly.
 
I'm making this update over TWO posts due to number of pics. These are just camera photos and won't represent anything you see in the manual.
 
Indy turned up with UPS this morning, and the box is large and heavy. In fact, the box isn't large enough yet as the masting, rigging, manual and plans also need to be included, as well as PE etc. The box was packed out as it was. This one took up two seats on my sofa.
 




 
Take a look through and you'll notice some little things here and there. One of those is that the main gun deck carriages are tabbed so they slot into the deck and can't be knocked free later in the build. This is only an optional feature as the modeller can, if they wish, plank over the tab slots and remove the tab from the carriage. That would be up to the individual but this is a perfectly good solution that will be invisible when implemented. If also means the guns will be perfectly spaced too and the barrels therefore evenly protrude from the hull. Those barrels will also be fitted after the hull is painted, so attaching them later won't dislodge a gun cart.




 
This is the engraved maple deck which won't be included as standard, unlike the other kits. This kit will have traditional planks for the deck, but it is quite likely that this option will be provided on release. If that happens, then the gun carriage location slots aren't likely to be there, and you'll simply open them up if you want use that kit feature. Oh, these parts are BIG!! My cutting mat is in 1cm squares, as a guide.

 
 
Not fantastically clear here, but the ply sub decks are engraved with planks. This isn't the finish. It's designed to give you a template onto which to lay the kit planks. That will save the modeller having to mark up stuff themselves.

I do have in stock that first book, I have read it twice over, very good book!
Thank you!
 
I was hoping to keep the kit well under £1000 - but as I progress, I know I cannot, as the material count keeps rising (I think this will have more laser cut materials and parts than anything else for a full commercial kit), so it will be around the £1000+ area , but NOT £1500-2000 - that would be Master Shipwright Indy territory (if I ever do any). I know I see a lot of comments saying how my kits are expensive compared to other brands, but they are honestly not, not when the materials and amount of time put into each kit are taken into account. 
 
I try to keep the end price as low as I can by still not really factoring my time in producing the kits - I am sure if I sub contracted the laser work out the Indy kit would be nearer £5k, and Sphinx around £2.2k. I do this mainly to make a living, but also for the love of it, wanting to produce better kits most can build and be proud of when finished, not frustrated and give up half way through - if it was 100% the former, then it would be easy to pump out 6-8 lesser kits per year, but as I have said many times before, that would be no fun and ultimately boring/unsatisfying. If Sphinx did not sell well, I would have had to rethink the way I design and simplify things, but as it did sell, and it is clearly what my customers want and like, I shall carry on doing what I am doing - low volume, high quality.
 
Almost all materials and services used to produce these kits now come exclusively from the UK and EU, I do not have the luxury of China prices.  For Indy, all photo etched work will be done here in the UK. This is more expensive for me (as prices accross the board have risen sharply over the past year), oddly enough, but I will get my orders on time, and the quality is slightly higher. I am sure the plans and manual for this will be almost half the overall kit weight, too. I do not mind so much, as the plans and manual (that are easily understandable) are just as crucially important as the rest of the kit contents. 

Cheers both!
 
I hope so, too, I have wanted to do this one since Agamemnon, 23 years ago, so want to do the subject the justice it deserves.
 
 

I have never designed a model ship kit without mast and rig. Indy is no exception - I did mention just a couple of posts up that mast stays will have BenD's rope.

OK, little update.
 
Designs for Indefatigable are now about 85% complete. The pictures shown are of the pre-prototype, so looks very rough as usual, as many parts have been glued, ripped off and new parts added in place - and is built for part checking only (just like Sphinx). There are still a few mistakes on this prototype model, so does not entirely reflect the final designs.
 
I have also included a drawing I did of the basic outline of what I think Indy would have looked like during most of her career. The only concession I have made is keeping the forecastle timberheads, rather than berthing up this area, with the decision based purely on aesthetics (plus the plans show this anyway.
 
What I did change is the quarter bulwarks. I know she had 7 gun ports per side and three (with spare chase port) at the bow, so the 7th port had to be worked in, and this meant altering the bulwarks to the same height. I have placed the additional 12 pounder long chase guns right at the front, as I could not see Pellew being chased, more the chaser...
 
I have tried to keep the poop profile as low as I can. Pellew didn't even want the poop at all, and would have been happy to have his cabin on the main gun deck and Indy fitted with sloop like quarter badges (would have looked odd..). With this in mind, I have kept the poop profile to a minimum, as I am sure Pellew would not have requested anything that would have increased windage. I will add 'iron stanchions' to this area, and that's it.
 
I have the bow area to design, which will be the last of the main areas, and then I need to do all the photo etched parts. (Oh, and of course, a figurehead and stern decoration - which will be minimal). For the first time, I decided to go with laser cut and engraved columns for in between all lights/windows, and I am very happy with how they turned out. Channels are made by laminating three patterns together, a wider and thicker centre and not so wide and thinner top and bottom.
 
You will be able to build this without the open slots in the decks if you so wish, they are not mandatory. The stand is 4mm acetate and a 2mm duel colour engraved nameplate.
 
ETA - Forgot to mention, I have moved the poop skylight back by 3 beams, as I realised it was too close the edge of the poop, so it is now over the great cabin, and not in the position shown.