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acaron41120

NRG Member
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About acaron41120

  • Birthday 12/30/1947

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Warner Robins, GA
  • Interests
    Wood model ships, VWs, flying and golf

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  1. That's exactly what I was hoping for. Your method is great. sometime a good video or photo is easier to read than the idea in the book. I will try that method when I get back to my Golden Hind. Thanks!!
  2. Still having difficulty in figuring out how to cut the garboard strake curve at the bow. If I can get this down I'll be home free. I THINK the best way is to lay the straight plank on the plans and trace the curve of the garboard strake onto the straight plank and cut it out. Am I correct?
  3. Fritzlindsay, thanks for the explanation, illustrations and photos. That answered by question perfectly!
  4. When the canon is not run out and the port covers/lids are closed, did the fit flush with the hull or overlap the canon port?
  5. Wefalck. Thanks for your explanation. Your method is what my plan is. Set the individual pieces on the plans, cut to length and angle, and assemble on the plan that I have covered with wax paper (wax paper doesn't adhere to glue very well) and when finished assembling, attach the assembly to the ship.
  6. Just wondering how everyone builds the beakhead on their ships. Do you build it piece by piece on the ship or build it on the work bench and then install it? The Mayflower is the first ship that I'm building that has a beakhead. My plan is to build it on a workspace and then install the finished piece on the ship. Thanks for any insight.
  7. Never thought of that. Sometimes the simplest solution is the best. I have some scrap plywood that I can use to make this tool. Thanks.
  8. As the subject line asks, is there any support tool to hold the bowsprit at the proper angle? Home made or purchasable? I need something to hold it at the proper angle while I tie it secure.
  9. Thanks for your method. I may give it a try.
  10. I have my bottom and top masts set up and ready to rig. I was just over thinking it. I'll start Wednesday with trigging the main mast shrouds and work my way up then move to the fore mast and finish with the mizzen mast. Thanks for the help and getting m y mind to quit overthinking it!
  11. When do you install the mast deadeyes? Rig it on each mast section then install the sections together or assemble the masts sections and then rig the deadeyes? Seems to me that installing the deadeye rigging before assembling the masts sections would be the better way as the fighting platforms (aka crows nests) wouldn't been the way. Thanks for your replies.
  12. Getting ready to stain the decks of the skipjack. What method do most use in applying stain? Stain , sand, 2nd coat of stain, steel woo; etc. And when finished should I use clear lacquer or should I use glaze? What's the difference?
  13. That's for the info. I'll have to check out some history and photos/paintings of the Skipjack. The scale of this kit is 7/16 inch =0.438 inches 1 ft which equates to roughly 1:190 or close to it. I think it'll be a fun build while I wait for the hull planks on the Golden Hind to dry.
  14. Received a Model Shipways Skipjack ship as a Christmas present. I will build it but I know nothing about quality of Model Shipways. Bad, good, in the middle of the road?
  15. Paul Ron. Yes. It's the reefers you show on your square rigged illustration (Item H). I thought they were tell-tales. Thank you. Again I'm learning which isn't bad for an old guy like me! Now the second half of the question is do any of you include these "reefs" on your sails? On many of my ship models, the plans show where these reefs would be attached but the instructions show how to sew these reefs onto the sail but never actually say to install them. It was these instructions that lead me to the question. Thank you all.
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