Bill97
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Everything posted by Bill97
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Never mind Bob. I reread your comment and explanation and now see you clearly answered my question. Thanks again. Bill
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Thanks Bob that helps explain. So when the ship was sailing the staff was taken down and the driver boom was able to pivot as needed. So should I still have the haliard rigged between the gaff and boom but just not have the ensign on it. Have it instead on the staff?
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Ian I got a notification that you commented after my last question but it did not post. Could you resend your comment?
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Ok gentlemen now that I completed the rigging I am moving on to some additional parts of the ship. As usual I already have a question and confusion. 1. Figure 180 page 255 of Longridge shows a 7” block for the ensign signal haliards at the end of the driver gaff. Where is the other end of this haliard connected? 2. The Heller kit came with a flag pole of sorts that is mounted on the back. You see the bottom of it in Longridge’s Plan No 2. This makes me wonder do the driver gaff and driver boom on an actual ship rotate left or right around the mizzenmast, or are they designed to just move up and down the mast? I can’t see how the boom could move left or right with this flagpole plan n the way.
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Gentlemen I am happy and relieved to say all the rigging on my HMS Victory is finished to include adding coils at each of the belay points!
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Kevin I am almost done with the rigging! A little bit here and there, trim off excess thread at belay points, and add all the rope coils. After that i got to paint 😳and attach the lanterns, put on the anchors, and lastly the davits and boats. I am heading to the finish line!
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Ian is this the photo you are talking about and what looks kind of frapped on the port side?
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Oh oh Ian I will have to investigate exactly what you are talking about with the driver sheet. What do you mean by frapped? I was able to fix the screw up with the snatch blocks. Surly I can correct what you are talking about.
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Taking a break from rigging and doing a bit of piddling. Decided to work on making a bunch of rope coils to hang at all the belay points. I use a bunch of push pins spaced 3/8” apart, wrap my my appropriate thread around 3 or 4 times and then coat with white glue. Once dry I cut them apart to make little coils I will later glue at each point.
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Ok Ian all the corrections made. Snatch blocks removed from the deck and repositioned on the bulwark. Hammock crane moved forward just a bit. Had to cut off one hammock. Netting reattached. Deck paint touched up. Lizards made and attached to mizzen shroud. Main brace reeved through lizard, block on yard, snatch block, and reeved to cleat. I have not permanently tied the brace or lizard yet. Wanted to ask if brace should be slack as shown in Longridge’s Plan 7 or taut?
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So Ian you are telling me those items I have glued to the deck need to be on the bulwark? Ok let’s see if I can gently remove them without to much damage to them or my deck! Then put them where they should be and touch up my deck paint. I will let you know how this goes 😊.
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Ok Ian. Great. I have those installed. The way I understood the instructions as that the brace was to reeve through a block then belay to that fitting. So the brace just goes directly to the snatch block from the block on the end of the yard as I have temporarily done in the photos?
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Yes Ian I still have some work to do on the main brace. The lizards still need to be added and a “snatch block” (if I can figure out what that is 😊) at the aft end poop gunwale on each side at to reeve it through enroute to the large cleat on the deck.
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Completed the braces on the bowsprit, foremast, and mainmast yards! I think that completes all the rigging from the bow back through the mainmast. Braces for a the mizzenmast and gaff still to go. Have to study that whole cross braces thing for the crossjack.
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Ok great Ian. So the yard d tackles are pretty much just like the two I have suspended from the main stay. These would just be on the ends of the fore and main yard. I will think about adding them. If I do I may just leave them as if they were in use. Maybe suspend a barrel, or something, from it as if it were in use. If I trice it up it is just going to be mixed in with all the other lines running down the length of the yard (foot ropes, sheets, etc). Or at the end of the day just omit them.
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YARD TACKLE PENDANTS??? Scanning back through my Longridge book I came across this rigging item I apparently missed on page 242. What in the world are these guys. I was starting to think I had a handle on this rigging now, but maybe not just yet! I have read over this long paragraph in Longridge’s book several times and still don’t understand it. I think I briefly skipped over this item way back when thinking it was the same as the yard brace pendants only used on the cross jack yard. Apparently this pendant is something different. Did you guys add them to your ship?
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Thanks my friends! If there are no recommended corrections I will move on to the braces.
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Whooo! Great Ian, I am glad you said you just tied them on. I was thinking about just doing that but thought you guys would shame me for cutting corners! 😀
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Ok gentlemen sheets, tacks, and clew lines complete! Decided to go without the bracket. To be honest I used Daniel’s comment as an excuse to not try to make something that would look like a bracket. Drilled and relocated the main sheet eyebolts a couple times. Had to then putty the not used holes and touch up the paint. Had to use the trick of pushing the main clew line down through the hatch cover, tie a knot, and pull back up through tight. Basically rigged it in reverse through blocks and tied off at the yard. My knots have not been glued yet so if you see anything that needs adjustment please feel free to advise.
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Daniel I am going to go with your opinion on this. Just the eyebolt and length of tackle. I am looking over a number of drawings and Victory photos to determine the correct position of the two eye bolts. All of the references I have show them between the second and third port from the back. However I am finding a slight variance in the position between the two ports. Not sure it matters as long as the position keeps the sheet from crossing in front of the third port. Also thank you Ian as always for your point of interest about the cro’jack braces crossing. Have not gotten that far yet but it is good to know so I don’t forget to do it. Speaking of the braces, at this scale did you try to do the dog and bitch thimbles for the yard ends or just fasten a block?
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I find that with out the brackets it seems the sheet rubs against the hull and the mainmast shrouds unless I move the clewline way out the length of the crossjack yard. This is of course when rigged without sails and the clew/tack/sheet block are pulled up an inboard. I like having the bracket move the block out from the side just a bit. Now if I can’t craft a suitable bracket I will need to go without and move the clew out to get a better angle on the sheet.
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Thanks Ian. That may be what I do. Tinkering with a couple things. How far out from the side of the hull did you decide on? Longridge does not say. I think I am going to bring the ring out flush with the front edge of the channel.
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Ian I am tinkering around with different ideas of how to make the little bracket that holds the main sheet tackle away from the side of the ship. Obviously Heller did not provide such a piece. What did you make for this piece?
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