AnobiumPunctatum

Danny, have a search to the German HMV Verlag. They offer an beautiful Bismarck in 1/250 and a lot of other German ships.

Danny, have a search to the German HMV Verlag. They offer an beautiful Bismarck in 1/250 and a lot of other German ships.

Danny, have a search to the German HMV Verlag. They offer an beautiful Bismarck in 1/250 and a lot of other German ships.

Danny, have a search to the German HMV Verlag. They offer an beautiful Bismarck in 1/250 and a lot of other German ships.

Congrats to this beautyful little model

Yepp. That's the easiest way.

All of the remaining rope coils have been completed. I found this to be an exercise in patience and sticktoitiveness. Lines had to be re-tensioned and in some cases the number of belays were reduced to remove unnecessary bulk around the belaying pins. To avoid disturbing the surrounding rigging, I used tweezers, one in each hand, as fingers to re-tensioned and belay. A tiny drop of PVA was used under the pinrail to hold the rope while belaying. With six belaying pins on each side, the coils sometimes overlap slightly. Making seven instead of eight holes in the pinrail would allow for spacing the pins further apart. However, I'm not sure if Chuck would agree. Here are a few photos of the completed work.

I'm really enjoying making the anchors from Chuck's kit. The slot in the stocks were first deepened leaving a thickness .045". If you don't do this, the air gap between the two stocks will be too wide. I used some sticky back sandpaper adhered to a 3/32" strip to achieve the required depth. I found that there was better control if I moved the stocks across the sandpaper rather than the other way around.

I finally had a chance to test out a milling machine that I acquired recently from a fellow member. I had never used one before, so I was anxious to give it a go. It made simple work of making inline holes for the #76 treenails. I used Chuck's method (chapter 1 of the monograph) which uses a pencil to outline each hole along with a neutral toned filler. Next, the rings, bands and then those fiddly buoys. Weathering will be done later after all the parts are completed.

Mike

I installed all the chocks, checked my gunport height markings and then cut the gunports out as one side was exposed and I could get a saw blade in there.
I did make a wooden gunport opening template that the outline was traced from.
 
I will have to rethink the way this is done as the assembly is not the strong and wobbles as the saw teeth grab in.
I can see some advantages to building upside down  with the head of the timbers glued to the building board.
 
I buggered my next frame that would be installed and will have to remake it to move forward.

There is no ideal way to do this Allan. It's easier to cut the sill mortises off the model but then re-raising the frame creates problems. In the end I find that the sill mortises are so shallow that, after fairing, they're virtually invisible. Any small gaps disappear by adding some glue into the space and sanding.
 
Love the height transferring device. Is it self-made?

Thank you very much Doris.

Welcome to the Triton Shipyards, very nice start.
 
In my opinion is the black line a to dark. If you want to show the caulking at the keel , you will see no difference. A lighter brown color is not so prominent.

One of the best book series is in my opinion the Swan Class series from David Antscherl and Greg Herbert. For the details you want to build have a look in the original drawings at the NMM. I don't have my copy of the Triton drawings with me.

Hi,
 
The first step is often the hardest ….
 
I hope to undertake this challenge of building my first POF ship in order to develop my practical skills and learn new techniques - as well as ending up with a (hopefully) impressive final model.  I’ve been preparing for a month or so – downloading the plans for the keel, getting them printed and sourcing the wood.
My choice of timber is cherry for the keel and frames, maple for the false keel and other components further down the line and I also have some black walnut in store.
The timber as purchased:
 

 
A strip of each cut off, split and planed down to 8 mm.
 

 
Ready to start ….
 

 
The first component I decided to make was the aft deadwood.
Patterns cut out and glued onto the cherry with ‘Spray Mount’. I’ve found that this holds the paper in place well enough without leaving any residue on the surface once removed. A couple of times the paper lifted while a piece was being worked but this was spotted and dealt with before errors occurred.
 

 
After initial cutting out with a band saw edges were refined with a combination of a band facer and drum sander.
 


 
I have read about, and liked, the technique of enhancing wood joints with permanent marker pens and decided to experiment with black and brown pens on some off-cuts. To say the difference is subtle would be a wild exaggeration!  Blowed if I could tell the difference….
 

 
The pieces were glued together, cleaned up and the ‘steps’ marked prior to the waste wood being removed with chisels.
 


 
My first attempt. I’m leaving the final shaping to the sides until much more of the keel has been completed in order to try and get my head around how much wood needs to be removed.
 


 
I have also been working on making a building board.
 


Before I work on progressing further could someone confirm whether or not this project has been opened to new members again, please? I’m a bit confused by the message saying that it is on the ‘Forum’ front page and the one at the top of the ‘Cross section’ thread saying it’s temporarily closed.
 
In no way is the fact that this project has no big glossy box to smuggle through the back door while the Admiral isn’t looking, thus avoiding the inevitable questions of ‘how much?’ or ‘and where is it going to go when it’s finished’ has absolutely no bearing on my decision to get actively involved ….. honest…
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.

I am very happy about your interest in my building report.
To all thank you for it.
Today only a picture of the finished top of the main mast.

I added a new item in the personal protection department. I began with a pair of earmuff, a respirator with cartridges, a head gear to install  on a construction hat,  a 3M full facepiece.
 
I will begin soon  extensive  hull sanding and I wanted  a lungs protection easier to wear than  the respirator with cartridges.
 
The next step will be in the protection equipment PAPR (Powered Air Purifying Respirator).   The best equipment I found on Internet is the 3M Versaflo but it is expensive and you need to wear a belt for battery, motor and fan.
 
 Another solution at ¼ the price of that unit is the Trend AirShield Pro.  Wood turner use this gears. This head protection gear can replace all the previous gears I had. It is a hard hat with a face shield made of plastic and cloth. Under the hat are incorporated a fan motor, battery  and filters. Performance is surprisingly good. The head is enclosed in a mask with positive pressure so wood dust does not enter. Even if there is an air cleaning system, alone it does not filter the air fast enough.

Still some frames are missing at the extreme fore and aft.
Fore ones are now cut.
 
On the last picture, a wide angle lens was used at 12 mm. This lens lenses allows the camera to get very close to a subject! It is a powerful tool for exaggerating depth.
 

Before  the frames assembly is glued,  I could choose to stop the build and recycle the frames in a coniferous tree.

I've been away for a few months busy with work around the house, spring yard work, dethatching the lawn (what a delightful time that was).
 
My needles are done and my eyesight seems normal, no need for a magnifying glass to read print anymore.
 
I had been down to the playroom during my absence from the forum but that was for unrelated items except for my reclaiming the rolling base of a broken office chair to make a mobile side table for modelling that you'll see in a photo below.
 
I am back to fitting chocks between frames and those located on the underbelly are easier inserted from above and inside.  To do this comfortably I lowered my modelling lift table and tilted the table top.  This work wonderfully.  I am so delighted I built my modelling table with these options.
 
I have two frames on the go in assembly and they both get thicker in their sided dimension at the gunport.  I've decided to build these as normal and add the thickness to the area needed after... but before glued to the deadwood.  Hope to post this in the next week or two.

During the weekend I made wooden finish of the hull using foil stripes. Later, it will be modificated with darker colours and of course I will create treenails and pins in wooden planks as well.
 

Really nice progress, Mark

Greg,
 
this are very good news. The book will be then a very nice Christmas present. From the size, the model is an ideal choice for my favorite scale, 1/32.

Wow, absolut fantastic. I like your precision.

I dyed the candles

I already discovered the problem. I had the automatic translator. Now without translator if I can upload photos

Let's do a size comparison. Gaetan uses his GRS engraver's block to refine one small part of his ship. 
 

 
 
I use mine to hold my ship.