AnobiumPunctatum

Really clever little jig. Thanks for sharing

I see that it has been awhile since my last Speedwell update. Here are some current photos. David Antscherl (of Greenwich barge fame) and I are currently working with SeaWatch books on a book featuring her construction in both plank on frame and plank on bulkhead versions. She's a sweet little vessel and will be fully rigged. At 1:48 scale she won't take up a lot of space in my study.
 
The fore platform with the boatswain's cabin and sail room. There is a properly tagged and stowed sail on the lower sail rack but it is no longer visible.
 

 
The well sitting beneath the main mast partner with it's two octagonal pump openings. there is a small cleanout door at the bottom of the well.
 

 
I made a jig to shape the round-ups of the various deck elements. Basically, I have connected several properly shaped deck beams (laser cut by Chuck) with planks on the convex and concave surfaces. I then affixed 150 grit garnet paper with rubber cement. Adding the round-up is then a simple matter of moving the piece up and down the paper. i use a small plank to keep the pull straight. You know when you are done as the dust spreads entirely across the paper above and below and the bottom of your thumb is raw.
 

 
The upper deck back to the aft platform has been framed. It is a fairly tedious job adding each new beam with it's lodging knees, hanging knees, carlings, ledges and bolts. Depending on the amount of deck planking one plans to add, some of these elements could be omitted. I plan on adding very little deck planking so most of it will be visible.
 

 
In the final photo, the capstan upper and lower partners have been added. Speedwell's capstan is a bit curious as it is designed to be raised and lowered. It seats on a removable spindle cup on the lower partner. Neither David and I have any idea why it was designed this way.
 

 
That's it for now. Next will be the framing of the aft platform and quarterdeck.
 
 
 
 

Perhaps it's interesting for you. Here's the link to the company which produces these cardbord and some nice paper kits:
 
http://www.model-shipyard.com/html/indexuk.html

HI ALL
 
FRAMES ARE NOW RAISED!!!!
 
WITH ONE SMALL BOO BOO!!!!
 
PORT SIDE , FIRST HALF FRAME, LETTER "R" ON THE PLANS WAS,WELL, ALL OVER THE PLACE.
 
MUST HAVE BEEN A LACK OF CONCENTRATION WHEN FIXING THIS ONE.
 
SHIP BUILDERS BAND AID TO THE RESCUE......LIBERAL SOAK WITH ISO AND THE OFFENDING ITEM HAS BEEN REMOVED.
 
FORTUNATELY IT SEEMS I SANDED THE ANGLE AT THE FOOT INCORRECTLY.....VERY CAREFUL USE OF THE PROXXON SANDER AND THE CORRECT ANGLE HAS NOW BEEN ESTABLISHED WITH MINIMAL LOSS OF MATERIAL.
 
I WILL SEE HOW IT LOOKS WHEN IT GETS TRIAL FITTED TOMMORROW........IF ITS NO GOOD A NEW PART WILL HAVE TO BE MADE......BUT SO FAR IT LOOKS OK.
 
NEW PHOTOS ENCLOSED.
 
NEXT UP WILL BE GUNPORT SILLS AND LINTELS.
 
CHEERS FOR NOW .....MICK

Thank you all, yet again.
 
Today's work was on the Hospital badge that is mounted high on the boat's stern over the upper transom.  The pictures are self-explanatory. At this scale the paintwork is more impressionistic than accurate! I'll be refining the shell on the fore side of the badge more.

I graduated align the body halves. Now I will deal with the limbs - the bow and stern.            

There definitely is something to be said for measuring a bunch, checking things a bunch, and taking it slowly.  I've been concerned about getting the wales correct, and identical on both sides.  I think I pulled it off.  Both sides, to the best of my observation, have identical runs, and line up perfectly at both the bow and stern. 
 
I used the batten strip again to determine the run of the thin 3/64" x 1/16" plank that is located just below the gun ports and is higher at the forward most gun port.  I drew that plank run with a pencil.  Again, taking my time is key.  So, in other words . . . this baby will be launched some time in 2028! 
 

 

 

 
Erik

After the last bit of tweaking on the hull, I've started planking.  I attached the first layer of the wales on one side.  The run came out pretty well.  Not perfect, but it'll do.  I lightly sanded the wale, but since it will have a second layer over it, I didn't get to crazy with the sanding.  I'm hoping the other side is a match.
 

 

 
Erik

Hello Christian,
 
Thanks for your interest and your compliment. During the last day I had a little time to start with the planking of the upper hull. It's going slowly and needs a lot of patience. The upper strakes shall be 3/32 wide x 3 /64 thick. Because of unavoidable sanding after the tree nailing I use 3/32 x 1/8. That gives 0,4 mm retrospectively 1/64 material to sand down. I think it shall be enough. The upper and lower sides of the strakes are treated with a pencil to give later on a slight effect of filling material.
 
Cheers, Daniel

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 159 –Deadeye Chains continued
 
Work on the chains and deadeyes has been slow going, but I have a few progress pics to post.  After making the large 16” deadeyes for the lower shrouds and fitting some of them to the channels, I turned to the smallest size – the 6” deadeyes for the skysail mast backstays.  I then started working back upward in size.  The fist picture shows some of the smaller deadeyes, placed in position on a drawing of the starboard fore channel.
 

 
When this was taken, I had not yet made the 9” deadeyes for the fore and main topgallant backstays, but the other sizes are shown.  The drawing is incomplete – note the missing chain plate cleats at the foot of the chains.  The numbers on the drawing are line numbers from the rigging list.
 
I used a slightly modified process in making the small diameter deadeyes.  The next picture shows the rounding of a 9” deadeye in the lathe using a barrette file.  I used a shaped cutter for the 16" and 13" sizes.
 

 
After this step the deadeye was parted off as with the larger sizes.  The next picture shows the set up for drilling all the deadeyes.
 

 
After dropping a few of these down into the chuck while trying to align them in the jaws, I resorted to the blue masking tape in the picture to place the deadeye and hold it while tightening the jaws.  This worked perfectly and is a good solution for those of us with shaky hands.  The next picture shows drilling.
 

 
The holes are approximately 10% larger than the specified lanyard diameter.  The next picture shows the fore starboard channel with all the chains and deadeyes fitted and the capping rails pinned in place.
 

 
The last picture shows the slots for the chains on the port fore channels being filed out.
 

 
Before this step, the positions of the slots for each line on each channel was marked using a string from the appropriate height on the dummy foremast that can be seen in this picture.  A common slot size was used even though some of the chains are smaller.  This was done to allow the eyes on the lower ends to pass through the slot if a replacement is necessary later.  Since the soldered joints take rigging stresses, this is a distinct possibility given the large number of soldered joints.  Best to be prepared.
 
Ed

Ed: no special paper was used, just regular bond. As it's sealed on both sides, (paint on one, white glue on the other) deterioration is unlikely.
 
Thanks to everyone for looking in and for all the 'likes'. It's very encouraging!
 
Today I installed the aft thwart and mooring timber heads, as well as the tiller. There was no indication of a tiller on the draught, so this is my own invention. I may paint the hand-hold in crimson. The tiller was carved and sanded to shape by hand, not turned.
 
At this point in the build, it is time to make a list of what remains to be done. There are ornamental carved brackets at each corner of the coach, two ensign staffs and their flags. Also, there are twelve oars to make. Stay tuned!

Cog: No, I use acrylic paint, so there are no issues. I still stretch the paper as if doing watercolour, though!
 
Alan: Whatever gives you the impression that I make no misteaks?
 
I repainted the decorative work to the correct length, cut the pieces out and glued them to the model. The cut edges are not an issue here, as they are hidden by mouldings top and bottom, and also overlapped at the ends.
 
The friezes installed, I then cut, shaped and painted the planksheer rails above the decorative work and glued these to the model. The coach is still removable at this point, so giving a clear field of operation.
 
Aft of the coach is another thwart with what appear to be mooring posts attached. These are next on the list.

Thank You very much.  The pumps have been completed.   You can see that I decided to paint them red.  Most people leave them natural but I figured I would go all in with the painted look.   The same is true for the pump handles and bracket.  These were made of either wood or metal.   Because most folks leave these natural I figured I would paint them black and make them look like metal.  This is how they were treated on the contemporary model of Surly. 
 

 

 

 
 
All of the pieces were painted before assembly.  Then I used some heavy paper to make the reinforcing band.  Those who have these plans will also notice that I have only used one band.   Yet on the plans there are two.  I have once again seen so many variations of elm tree pumps I figured I would show it both ways.  Those building Cheerful can decide which they prefer.
 
1. transfer the 7/10/7 template lines to each side of the 3/16" square pump tube.  Carefully file the tube to an Octagon using the lines as a guide.  Drill and bore out the top of the tube to a depth of about 3/8".  Carefully use a bit that will leave the pump tube walls not too heavy.
 
2. File and shape the bracket for the handle.   The part that sits against the pump tube is tapered thinner so it fits on one facet of the octagon.  Use a slotting needle file 1/32" thin or less to file the slot in the top to a forked shape.  This will accept the handle.
 
3. Place a 1/16" x 1/16" strip in a dremel to round it off. Using an emery board this takes only a minute.  This will become your pump spout.  Drill a hole into the end before parting off a 5/64" long spout.  Glue it to the pump tube.  All pieces can be painted first.
 
4.  Using some card stock strips wrap it around the tube as shown on the plan to simulate the metal reinforcement band.  One ore two is fine.  The top band should be carefully placed so the notch in the bracket accepts it at the the right height on the tube. So measure its location from the plan.
 
5. Glue the bracket into position.
 
6.  Insert a length of 24 gauge black wire into the hole on the end of the handle.  Like an eyebolt.  Insert the end of this long wire into a pre-drilled hole in the bore of the pump tube.  Adjust the length of the wire until the other pivot-hole in the handle site in the bracket nicely.  The handle should be in the downward position to be correct.  
 
7.  Finally insert a small length of 28 gauge black wire into the bracket hole and through the handle to lock it in position.   Snip it off on both sides so it stand proud of the bracket's surface just a little bit. 
 

 

 
Now its time to start on the winch!!!

Thank you very much!!!
 
I have started on the pumps today.
 
Basically I started with a 3/16" square and used the 7/10/7 ratio to convert it to an octagon.   You can see how I carefully marked the blank and then filed the piece to shape.   The end was drilled out afterwards.
 

 
I also laser cut the handle from 1/64" thick boxwood.  The handle bracket was made from 3/32" thick stock.   The bracket was tapered where it attaches to the pump tube.  Then it was notched out with a fine file to make it look like a fork.  The handle will fit into this.  But first I must paint the pieces and then assemble them.  Maybe tomorrow.
 
Chuck

The thumb has healed for the most part and work continues on the pedestals for the six sculptures to stand on against the bulkhead. The final pedestal is in place and it is time to contemplate carving the sculptures.
 

 
It is indeed interesting the Van de Velde showed the stay coming through the bulkhead which would lead to the assumption that it then emerged through the deck above on its way to the mast. Was it the artist's impression, or was it indeed rigged that way?
 
 
More to follow..............

Thanks for the guidance.  I was going to go back and re-do the top timbers.  This exercise is certainly giving be a better idea of the construction process.  Attached is a recent pic. of the aft-most frame.  I inserted the arc of the wing transom (magenta line) and it lines up where it should.  Back to the frame plans to work on the little tops.  I had no other pressing things to do this weekend anyhow.
Maury

Thank you all very much.....got tired with the repetition of making cannon carriages today....soooo
 
 
I had prototype keel parts cut out for a while and they were staring at me.....so one project that is slowly getting started is a kit prototype for a Queen Anne style Admirals Barge or Shallop 1700ish.   I am testing some wood choices and here is a look at the keel assembly in cherry in comparison to the Cheerful for size...its 1:24 scale.
 

 

 
Now back to those carriages...sorry to digress but I had to get that out of my system ....it was bugging the heck out of me just looking at the parts sitting on the table.  
 
Chuck

Another pedestal has been completed and mounted on the bulkhead. They are proving to be difficult to hold on to when carving as I accidentally ran the tip of my left thumb into the blade of my Preac saw a few days ago. A dumb move for sure! Now that it is healing, I can churn these out a little faster. 
 

 
In the meantime I did fashion a couple of heads for the beak based on a keyhole design that allowed standup and seated use. I will mount these on the beak head after the side panels are fastened.
 

 
More to follow.................

Hi Niklas,
 
Very clean work. I take a seat and a glas of wine for me please.

Congrats for this beautyful model and thanks for your build log.
It was a great pleasure for me to follow your progress.

I finally completed the paddle wheels to the point I can start tying the drive train to the engine.  This week I was able to get most of the pittman/crosshead assembly done.  Just the feedwater pump and reach rods to finish before moving onto the boilers.
 
 
U-joints for the reach rods.

 

 
Crosshead slides.

 
Testing the fit of the crosshead and end of the pittman.

 

 

 
Pittman ends freshly milled.

 
 
Straps soldered to pittman ends.

 
Finished pittman strap with bearing, wedge and keys before blackening.

 

 
 
After blackening with bolts added.

 
Flywheel end of pittman.

 
Crosshead end of pittman.

 

 

 

Hello All,

I have started modeling again. It's not like I haven't had time. But have been wood working and bee box building. Having fun. But getting back to modeling now. I am getting back to my re-build of my Lady Kathrine, my Echo Cross Section, and now the Hannah. Been studying up on all the chapters Bob has supplied with the kit. It also included 2 cd's with very detailed pic's on the build. I am considering rigging the ship since I have all the info I need for the model. It will be given to my oldest daughter Victoria. The reason is simple. Her 2 very best friends are named Hannah.
I will be getting very detail on my progress, because that is just my way. It is to help others, plus if someone sees I am doing something wrong, Please let me know. I will be starting the build board tomorrow. I will not be posting pictures as regularly as I use to, because my spare time goes in different directions with 3 kids at home. But i will post a lot of pictures and explanations of my build progress.

Thanks for stopping by....

The roof of the coach has been completed and installed. As this is curved, a suitable strategy for building it is needed. I considered carving it from solid, but this would be difficult to keep a consistent thickness. I decided to cooper it, that is to say, build it up as one would a barrel. 
 
The first step was to carve a form to build it on. I hollowed a piece of basswood to the appropriate radius, which in this case was 3½" full size (first photo). It was then shaped to the shape of the roof and marked out for the six planks that are nominally 1' 0" (scale) wide. These were cut and shaped with a slight bevel on each edge. They were then glued up on the form. 
 
Once complete, two 'rafters' were glued on the underside to maintain shape and integrity. A piece of fine sandpaper was rubber cemented to the form and the upper side of the roof sanded (second and third photos). The outer side edges of the roof were sanded flat, to fit the coach top edges. 
 
Following the color used on Prince Frederick's barge, I painted the roof a blueish green to imitate a verdigris copper roof. On the actual barge, the roof appears to be covered with painted canvas. I used a mix of viridian green, some white and then toned down with the addition of a touch of black. The top of the capitals on the coach were also painted this color and the roof glued in place. 
 
Next is the decorative work at the stern.

Hi Niklas,
 
Very clean work. I take a seat and a glas of wine for me please.