AnobiumPunctatum

Thank you all for the great comments and for the likes.
 
 
 
 
 
Greg, Mark,
For me this really seems small progress considering I am entering the tenth year of building for this project. But I'm getting closer and closer - I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. I even ordered the display stand - it would be ready by mid January next year - see first two pictures.
 
I also made some more progress -  I won't say small or big this time. Here are the pictures.
 
Regards,
Alexandru

Hello Greg,
the images show off my assistance the transfer of different heights on the model
Karl 

HI ALL
NOT A GREAT DEAL OF PROGRESS TO REPORT.......BUSY SLOWLY MAKING FRAMES.
 
HAVE STARTED A NON SHIP MAKING PROJECT.....SOMETHING TO DO WHILST THE FRAMES ARE DRYING!
 
I HAVE ALSO UPGRADED MY SANDING MACHINE TO A PROXXON TG125
 
I WAS FED UP OF TRYING TO KEEP THE TABLE AT 90 DEGREES ON MY GENERIC CHINESE MADE SANDER.
HAVING GOT THE PROXXON OUT OF THE BOX AND SET UP I WONDER HOW I MANAGED TOO SAND ANYTHING SQAURE ON THE OLD ONE!
 
THE TABLE LOCKS RIGIDLY AT ANY DESIRED ANGLE...THE MITRE FENCE IS ACTUALLY SQAURE TO THE TABLE AND THE ANGLES MARKED ARE TRUE.....IVE CHECKED.....IT HAS DUST EXTRACTION!!!!......AND BOY IS IT QUIET!!!
 
BRAND NEW AND DELIVERED FROM EBAY IN TWO DAYS FOR £100 ISH.
 
PHOTOS INCUDED AS USUAL.
 
PROBABLY BE THE LAST POST BEFORE NEW YEAR.
 
WISHING EVERYBODY A HAPPY AND PEACEFUL CHRISTMAS AND NEW YEAR.
 
CHEERS.......MICK

Welcome back, good to read that everything is alright

Fantastic pictures of an great model

Welcome back, good to read that everything is alright

Welcome back, good to read that everything is alright

I can only second the comments of the others. Really wonerful work, Karl

Welcome back, good to read that everything is alright

<<this question moved to the rigging forum section of this site>>
 
Even though I have had little time in the shop, the brain neurons keep firing....
 
A future problem to tackle involves the quarter deck rail (pic from full Druid mid-construction):

 
The following lines are connected to this rail:
1.  Mainsail clewlines
2.  Mainsail buntlines
3.  Mainsail Leechlines
4.  Topsail Clewlines
5.  Topsail reef tackles
6.  Topgallant sheets
 
The question is how?  Per the plans this rail is not a real 'beefy' one.  Tying them all just to the top rail would seem foolhardy given the stresses.  Normally you would see some sheaves either attached to, or through the bases of each column but these rails seem too thin for that.  At the very least belay pins seem in order (total 16, 4 between each post), but the runs of the lines are in question.  With two lines per category (port / starboard) I currently do not have a firm decision.
 
If I was rigging a full ship you would also add:
1.  Mainstaysail halyard
2.  Mizzen Topsail Bowline
3.  Fore Topgallant Brace
 
Any opinions?
Mark

I neither wanted, nor intended, to get ahead of Chuck on this build, but I'm afraid that it's happening. After finishing the outer hull detailing by doing the boom supports and adding the keel plates (there are still some eyebolts to be added during rigging), I moved on to the interior by doing the stern seats, which Chuck hasn't done yet.
 
The seats were made from boxwood sheet using card templates to make the parts. Some discards before they fit, but fairly straightforward work. The seats were painted red to match the inner planking. 
 
I think that I will start making some gun carriages now, while waiting to see where Chuck goes next.
 
Bob

........
 
                you soon rekon54

Hi All,
Thank you for the kind words and warm welcome.  Very motivating.
 
You may note that in my last post of the gantry, I double laminated the crossmember,  this was to mitigate any twisting, which did happen with my first attempt. 
 
I will be building the Naiad from Swiss Pear, West Indian Boxwood, and Holly, all purchased as billets from Dave at D'Lumberyard.  I really enjoy milling my own stock and allow for a few hundredths of extra thickness for fine tuning and sanding.  The false keel will be ebonized swiss pear. I really dislike working with ebony for a variety of reasons.
 
Below is a photo of my calipers as suggested in Ed's book.  I made these of Babinga.  Next time, I would do without the Shellac and would center the screw and sleeve clamp.
 

 
I have been working on the model for the past few weeks and came across a significant pitfalls that I will share:
Scale of pattern sheets - I printed out the pattern sheets from the disk, but neglected to scale the prints to "full size".  This error was not detected until I built the full stem, and beak!  Oh well, back to the drawing board I went.  While it was only off by a smidge on each part, the cumulative affect was significant.  I then read Ed's log and sure enough, he addresses the issue there.
 
Here are the patterns for the stem, cut out and ready for fitting.
 


 
 
You will note that in this second photo above, I glued up the box joint where the stem meets the keel.  In my first attempt, I got this angle wrong.  I decided to do it earlier than suggested by the practicum so that I could better tie the whole thing together.  This is probably one of the most critical angles/relationships in the ships structure.
 
Below is a close up of the box joint.
 

 

 
More to come.  Thanks again for the warm welcome. Gary
 
 
 
 

I can only second the comments of the others. Really wonerful work, Karl

I can only second the comments of the others. Really wonerful work, Karl

Welcome to MSW. I will follow your log with interest.

Welcome to MSW. I will follow your log with interest.

I can only second the comments of the others. Really wonerful work, Karl

Welcome to MSW. I will follow your log with interest.

I completed the binnacle of the main bell

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Continuation.
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Continuation.
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Thanks for the "likes" and comments.
 
That magic milestone...  All planked, sanded, and one coat wipe-on poly.  I do have one small area that needs some work as it has a stain.  I don't think it's blood...
 
Lessons learned at this point.. many.    
 
1) I should go a bit wider than the 1/8" width even if it's out of scale.  Just for the eye appeal and the ease of working with the wood.
 
2) Use a "harder" wood, like boxwood.  Pear deforms and dings easily.
 
3) Definitely not pear for gap-filling.   Some areas went black, other areas look good.  Strange stuff.  I played with some scrap and it did the same thing.  Either that or not use the poly and sawdust in the gap filling and live with the glue and sawdust.
 
4) A bit more care in the framing and fairing. I found some areas just weren't proper and had to fiddle with the frames before continuing.
 
Now to attend to the stern... which should be fun area and not as tedious.
 

 

Hello friends,
new Pictures.
Regards Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  7

At this point, all that was necessary was to pop the side frames off the stern timbers and apply new ones that extended the full depth of the timber.  An exterior stop will be applied after the window has been installed.  Thanks again, Danny.
 
The rudder trunk extends from the fore face of the stern post to just aft of the opening for the rudder.  There is a gap between it and the center window.  It is trapezoidal in shape.  Because of the angles involved and the shape of the lower counter, templates were used to get the correct shapes for the pieces.
 

 

 
Lockers ran the length of the aft wall of the cabin.  They are deep enough to provide additional seating space.  On Atalanta there are two tiers of lockers and a shelf above the upper locker below the level of the window sill.  I have chosen to model only the port lockers, leaving the starboard framing open.
 
The first step was to develop a template for the profile of the lockers and counter.  This was taken off the plan.  The lowest vertical element was made first.  Paper templates were made for each piece of the assembly.  I glued the vertical stiles onto the template and then installed the horizontal slats.  After it was dry, I peeled off the paper and glued in the recessed panel.  A cleat was installed on the blind side to stiffen it and give a wider gluing surface.  Finally, it was glued in place.  The horizontal element needs to be supported at the stern timbers.  I inserted wedges between the timbers to provide a gluing surface.  In the pictures it appears that they are not at the same height or angle.  This is an optical illusion which is occurring because the deck curves but the locker is horizontal.  
 
I had a choice at this point to either make a functional locker door and frame or simply make one piece and draw the door in with an #11 blade.  I chose the latter.  This actually makes the outline of the door stand out better than if I had made it in two pieces.  Be sure to carry the incision around the fore edge of the door.  It barely shows until the finish is applied.  I toyed with the idea of having one of the lockers open and filled with rolls of maps but decided against.  None of the other rooms have elements that would have been brought on board (with the exception of the hammocks) so for consistency I left the lockers closed.  I will not furnish the space for the same reason.
 

 

 
The second vertical element starts approximately two inches behind the edge of the door.  The panels are shorter because of the rudder trunk.  I have also installed the interior upper counter plank to act as a gluing surface later.
 

 
The second horizontal element is installed, followed by the third vertical element and the shelf.  Because of the height, the third vertical element has no ornamentation.  The last two pictures show how the outline of the door stands out after a finish is applied.  I still need to install hinges.  In the last picture, the angles still look "off".  This again is a function of the sloping floor and the horizontal locker door, combined with the angles of the hull planking and my bad photography skills.  In real life it looks correct.