AnobiumPunctatum

Hello everyone  
Below, I will continue with my introduction to the subject.   ... A short historical summary about the RS14 you will find in an article of the classic boot magazine, may 2012, Page 29-38: "Stavanger's thousand-mile farewell tour" by Nic Compton (see link).
 
http://content.yudu.com/Library/A1wcz6/ClassicBoatMay2012/resources/3.htm

For my part, the research and the creation of my own drawings about RS14 lasted months and even today still not completed. This investment was necessary, so that I could be trusted with "Stavanger". To do this, the Book Colin Archer and seaworthy double-ender by John Leather was one of my main sources.   Regards Mike   Below: - Book cover. - Original drawings of the Svolvear class 1901 (RS14 was the third boat of this series). - Some of my studies of RS14          

I agree with Druxey on option 1.
 
Ed

NEW YEAR’S UPDATE
 
It has been a busy year for my project, though, unfortunately, much of my work  hasn't translated into recent posts on Model Ship World. As most of you know, my project is really two in one: to create the first accurate scale model of HMS Terror as she appeared in 1845, and to produce the first accurate plans of the ship in her 1845 configuration. I spent much of the year on the latter, having decided early in the year to extend my plans to all decks and fittings of the ship. I completed a significant amount of this work, including the lower deck plans and details of accommodations (I’ve produced much more than has appeared here), and I am nearing completion of plans for the orlop deck and hold, as well as various cross sections. As always, creating these plans is not as simple as tracing the original Terror/Erebus plans, as each requires significant historical research to fill in the many missing gaps. 

The discovery of HMS Erebus by Parks Canada also had a significant impact on my project. My blog was inundated with thousands of views and I received many dozens of emails from interested readers, researchers, and other enthusiasts. Many came during the exciting few weeks between the time the ship was discovered and when it was eventually identified. I enjoyed these exchanges immensely and they led to a blog post about the structural differences between the ships, which received a very positive response from many readers. 

The discovery also led to several requests for consultation/information/plans from researchers involved in various media projects. I’m very excited by some of these new projects and while I can’t disclose them all yet, I’m sincerely gratified that my work will appear in formats other than my blog and posts on MSW. One of these has already come out; Canadian Geographic Magazine requested a modified version of my plans showing the most important ship systems. They did not utilize the entire plan, which included a cross section, so I have provided the entire image above. 

Despite all of this additional work, I haven’t forgotten about my model, and I’ve been working slowly away at it when I can find a chance. Below I outline my progress to date: 
 

Each scarph on the keel had 8 copper bolts, 1 and 1/8 inches in diameter (consistent with much larger 36 and
74 gun vessels). I simulated these using 20 gauge copper wire which accounts for a 1.5 inch rove.
 

Gluing the main keel and stem together. Alignment was critical, so the parts
were laid out over the plan and clamped/weighted down.
 

Checking the alignment before gluing. The unfinished profile piece can be seen in the background. 
 

Gluing the pieces in place. 
 

The completed keel/stem assembly with the false keel sections dry-fitted below. Each false keel section
was ca. 24 feet in length and 7 inches deep. I originally thought they were attached with staples,
but nails were more likely in this era. 
 

Gluing black velum to the false keel sections to simulate tarred flannel. 
 

Gluing the false keel to the keel assembly. Note the final shaping of the lower stem piece has not been completed.
 

The 1836 plans indicate that false keel thinned as it ran forward; here I've mark off its run prior to final sanding.
 

The completed piece. Unfortunately the fluorescent lights I'm using don't do the richness
of the Swiss Pear justice  - indeed they make the wood look quite dry and pale when it actually is not. 
 

A view of the simple false keel scarphs near the centre of the keel. The false keel was designed
to tear away in the case of a grounding and was essential on bomb, merchant, and exploration ships.
Note that this is the port side of the keel (fore is on the left). 
 

Profile piece and station bulkheads cut from 1/4 inch plywood (no matter what I do I cannot get this picture to display
correctly  - sorry!). 
 

Cutting the slots for the station bulkheads. 
 

Deburring with some wonderful scroll-saw sanding strips I purchased from Lee Valley.
 

The profile piece with all the bulkhead slots cut out. The fore and aft slots will be finished after the
keel is glued to the profile piece and the mast slots will be removed when the station bulkheads are all in place. 
 

The keel assembly and profile piece prior to gluing. 
 

The keel was pegged and glued to the profile section. 
 

The pegs continued up the stem. 
 

The keel assembly glued to the profile piece. Everything is square as far as I can tell - but the
clamping required was far too ugly to show here! The stern assembly will be fitted when the bolsters
for the propeller aperture are added and will need to be glued in the vertical position. 
 

Captain Crozier inspects the boxing.

Revenue cutters were fast because of the great spread of canvas they could carry, not because they were lightly built. They were rugged and robustly built, not lightly framed. I suspect 'double' framing was most likely. The dead flat distance might include part of the space as well as siding of the floor timber. I vote for your Option 1, for what it's worth.

Happy New Year
 
 
It's time for another short update. The design takes more time than expected. I notice that I don't have any experience in doing this. I reconstructed the square frames from station line H to station line 4 for both options.
 
I don't know which one could be right.
 
Both options have their advantages and disadvantages
 
Option 1:
+ The real double frames are more common than the design in option 2
+  The relationship of room and space is more common comparing with other (bigger) ships of that time
-  The width of the floor timber given through the two station lines for station 0 does not fit.
 
Option 2:
+  The width of the floor timber fits two the station lines at station 0.
+  The frame design allows a better ventilation between the frames
+  The frame design is very light which is positive for a fast sailing ship
-   The relationship of room and space is very uncommon
 

 
In my opinion the given historical dimensions for framing a cutter are not very helpful for a cutter of the Alert-Class
The shipbuilders repsoitory is from 1788 and Steel from 1805. There was a very important change in the armament of ships between the design of Alert and the two documents: the introduction of the carronades.
In the older repositories the cutters would not mentioned.
 
What do you think, which is the solution you would prefer?

Yesterday I experimented a little bit with 3D views of my line drawings. The result is not a real 3D model but very helpful for checking the reconstruction. The two pictures are only an impression, because on the PC I can rotate the model and have a closer look to the details.
 

 

Happy New Year
 
 
It's time for another short update. The design takes more time than expected. I notice that I don't have any experience in doing this. I reconstructed the square frames from station line H to station line 4 for both options.
 
I don't know which one could be right.
 
Both options have their advantages and disadvantages
 
Option 1:
+ The real double frames are more common than the design in option 2
+  The relationship of room and space is more common comparing with other (bigger) ships of that time
-  The width of the floor timber given through the two station lines for station 0 does not fit.
 
Option 2:
+  The width of the floor timber fits two the station lines at station 0.
+  The frame design allows a better ventilation between the frames
+  The frame design is very light which is positive for a fast sailing ship
-   The relationship of room and space is very uncommon
 

 
In my opinion the given historical dimensions for framing a cutter are not very helpful for a cutter of the Alert-Class
The shipbuilders repsoitory is from 1788 and Steel from 1805. There was a very important change in the armament of ships between the design of Alert and the two documents: the introduction of the carronades.
In the older repositories the cutters would not mentioned.
 
What do you think, which is the solution you would prefer?

@Antony
Thanks for the info.
 
@Daniel
I've scanned the NMM-drawing and work with the digital copy in Autocad. There I can take the measurements of all lines much easier than by hand. Also it's possible to get the information of the radii of the different curves. Be aware that the original drawing has some distortion which you have to calculate out.
The diagonal and horizontal lines in the half breath except the breath extreme line are the result of the construction work in the body plan. There I use splines. All curves in the body plan are arcs with tagential transition.
 
I will try to describe what I did, but it's not so easy to do in English. So please give me bit of time.

Happy New Year
 
 
It's time for another short update. The design takes more time than expected. I notice that I don't have any experience in doing this. I reconstructed the square frames from station line H to station line 4 for both options.
 
I don't know which one could be right.
 
Both options have their advantages and disadvantages
 
Option 1:
+ The real double frames are more common than the design in option 2
+  The relationship of room and space is more common comparing with other (bigger) ships of that time
-  The width of the floor timber given through the two station lines for station 0 does not fit.
 
Option 2:
+  The width of the floor timber fits two the station lines at station 0.
+  The frame design allows a better ventilation between the frames
+  The frame design is very light which is positive for a fast sailing ship
-   The relationship of room and space is very uncommon
 

 
In my opinion the given historical dimensions for framing a cutter are not very helpful for a cutter of the Alert-Class
The shipbuilders repsoitory is from 1788 and Steel from 1805. There was a very important change in the armament of ships between the design of Alert and the two documents: the introduction of the carronades.
In the older repositories the cutters would not mentioned.
 
What do you think, which is the solution you would prefer?

Thank you Druxey
I'll have a look at some photos from forum builds and books and then play with it some more.
 
Meanwhile I had extruded my keel and post sketch to the maximum thickness of 1-1/2 feet.
 
You can see the hull shape at the stern disappears into it prematurely.  This is because the stern post is not a constant thickness but notched away and tapered.  Same thing at the stem post but not as dramatic.
 
I included a couple snap shots with the keel and posts made a bit transparent so you can see where the hull disappeared to.

The refit of the schooner Charlie is complete.
I finished my workroom (installed the missing door trims) on Monday
Planed down an extra door jamb and ripped to size to make the trims for my modelling table edges.  They are installed (glued, pinned and clamped at the moment) but not complete.
They will need sanding and the table requires painting in the next few days to be complete.
So I finally find I am back on my Bellerophon.
I am looking forward to beginning the actual scratch build of this ship but must finish my plans first.... completing my 3D model to create and print my cutting templates.
 
After careful study and measurements off the ship's plans I have decided how I might complete this area.
 
I created yet one more plane on the sheer plane to layout the transom outline as measured.  The lower transom has an arc or radius to it.  You can see in my layout I simply drew a line between the two outer points, offset the line 4" (as measured) and drew a three point arc.
 
When looking down from above the upper transom has a 12" deep arc from sheer line (center line) to the outside (as measured).
Next I will complete the profile of the upper transom and then attempt to create the lofted feature and add it to the rest of the 3D model.
 
As the sun has risen well above the yard arm ... and this is the end of 2014...  I will slowly make my way to the wardroom to commence celebrations and so I wish everyone a Happy New Year!

Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
The beginning of the relationship is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
Regards, Paul

With the frames roughed out it was time to think about how to make the Hahn style jig.  I had success previously with the full hull but had lessons learned for my building style (read accuracy and capability).  So I came up with the following:
 

 
First off, I did copy the base pattern off of the plans but did not go and cut it all out at once.  Lots of small errors compound to very noticeable ones.  So after cutting out the center portion I picked the first frame, centered it over its location then cut out notches for it to fit snugly.  I also fit out pillars that insured the keel was at the exact height and centered over the jig.  So the frame is inserted into its groove, the pseudo keel is put into position and then the frame is pulled up into position perpendicular to the board. 
 
For the next frame I inserted a 1/8" board spacer to define the start point of the frame, then measured as above off of this starting position.  Very close to the plans but tweeked here and there.  So everything is based off of the first frame.
 
Nothing is glued yet (still have to scrape off the remaining templates).  After everything is verified, the frames will be glued and then the real keel will be fashioned.
 
Also need to detail out the face frames of the first and last exposed frames.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Really wonderful pictures Ed. I will also by a copy of this book. I like the Tea Clippers and your model will be a fantastic possibility to build one in the future

Thanks all for helping me to sort this out. 
 
Jan, 0,5 mm copper rod scored with a sharp blade made the screw head.
 
Sorry Grant, no way I can make working screws on this scale
 
So that said, the gudgeons are made, again from brass strip and bar silver soldered together and formed to follow the hull curvature. I'll probably use some castello shims to compensate for the missing hull planking. Some adjustments are still needed before I can bolt the gudgeons permanently to the hull. Somehow gudgeon #5 ended up under the transom planking
 
 

 

 
Remco

Today I finished working on the gunner. I have completed the thresholds and lintels.

 

 

 
 
This is the window of the cabin of the Captain

 

 

 

 

I finished the keelson, and then I started laying dormant bridge

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

After breathing a sigh of relief noting that the keel has remained perfectly straight, I started the hard work of balancing the exterior of the structure; to do this I'm using the scrapers that, once sharp, working a beauty! Throughout the morning for half of the hull and is not finished yet, in return, my left arm began to creak ..........
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

more images

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Treenailing, aft magazine & lower deck beam, oiling... some progress at the inside of hull
 
In this small scale, diameter of treenail would be about 0.5mm, however, it's not easy for me making treenail of that size. Yes, from the other's building logs, I learned how to make treenail with draw plate but I failed. I think I need more experience. So, I drilled 0.5mm empty holes without treenails on the planked board. I hope I can try again in the near future.
 
The fitting on aft magazine was simple, light room and magazine access stair. Lower deck beams over the magazine were added.
 
One more progress was finishing oil trial. I usually used linseed oil and wax for the finishing of furniture but they have a problem of bonding strength with glue on the oiled surface. So I tried varnish type oil and found that the result of joining strength and color was not so bad.
 
Happy new year!
 
Lee

Good morning Mark,
 
here it is now late afternoon, and I'm ready at the shipyard. But today I was lazy and did only some paint work and mix new red color. 
 
But to your question. You mean these two hatches
 

 
The one aft goes to the Ladies hole and the one with the grating to the bred room. At the plan it looked so
 

 
At the hatched to the bred room and forward to the aft magazine stairway is a rim drawn, but not to that of the ladies hole. So I thought that I made it this way. If you have to work there a cannon I think the rim would be in the way. 
 
I dont know if I'm right with this interpretation, but I hope 
 
Regards,
Siggi

I have made the grips from 0,7mm black ironwire ( bindingwire from a floristshop).
 
All together 12 pieces for the quaterdeckhatch and 40 for the cargohatch.
 

 
The ready quarterdeck hatch.
 

 

 
The cargo hatch on maindeck
 
Milling the planks
 

 

 

 

 
Ready
 

 

 
 
A Happy New Year 2015 to all.
 
Cheers!  
 
Hartmut
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks for dropping in again, and your kind comments John, Nils, Allan, Richard, Maury and Frank.
 
 
Richard, I'm not using a "professional" setup. I use a pencil torch from Bernzomatic, which uses butane. The solder paste is a medium melting point from Fusion.
 
 
Maury, I cut the plates to length after soldering and before drilling the holes.
 
Ratlines
 
Time for the "fun" job of tying the lower ratlines. I printed out a spacing template using AutoCAD and taped it behind the shrouds :
 

 

 
The lowest 6 and uppermost 6 ratlines don't tie off to the outer shrouds. There is some minor adjusting to be done which I'll do when they are all completed.
 
  Danny

Back to the framing dimensions.
 
I got the values of the SR, but there are mostly the same as in Steel. But both dimensions are for a 273 tons, 16 gun cutter which is much bigger than Alert.
I also got the values for Weazle, a 201 tons brigantine, which is nearly the same size as Alert and has the same room and space. (Thanks very much for the help) Unfortunately the framing dimensions do not really fit with the proportions of SR and Steel.
 
So I decided to go with two different options:
 
1. On the basis of Steel I calculated the relationship between 2'2'' and 2'0'' room and space and make my frames 92.3% of the dimensions of Steel.
2. I use the given distance between the station lines for frame 0 (8'') and calculate all other timbers in relationship to Steel.

 
The first design I will do with option 2 and the frame layout of Cheerful and Racer. These drawings are around 30 years younger but the oldest which I found with framing information.
If the design don't work, I will give the first option a try with real double frames.
 
What do you think, could both options a possible solution for the framing of the small vessel? Which option would you prefer?

Hi Christian,
 
I just finished browsing through your log, you're doing some excellent work both in CAD and in wood Sir, your Alert is looking great! 
 
I've been lucky to have have copies of David Antscherl's " Understanding Eighteenth-Century Admiralty Drafts" and "Drawing Techniques for the Modeleller" thanks to druxey, and I am amazed at his techniques of correcting distortions and drawing the various sweeps and curves using the provided radii/centres by hand. I am equally amazed at how you are extending these mind-blowing techniques to CAD