AnobiumPunctatum

Already did. You even hit the 'like' button! We're gettin' old, Mark! 😉

Hi @AnobiumPunctatum,
 
 Yes, I’m still planning on building up the keel out of layers. My woodworking skills are insufficient to craft angled scarfs and the T shaped wings of the keel by hand, so I’ll build them up one layer at a time and sand them down.
 
I haven't honestly given much thought to the decorations. They are far beyond my skill level and I'm not sure how I would go about them. I'll give it my best effort, but may very well leave them out for this project. It's more important to me that this boat floats than that it be an exact replica.

Thanks for sharing the photos. The decorations are really nice. The lion looks special on the drawing. At the first looking I thought, it's a horse.

Well I am not sure if I should put  the photo's here or at the beginning and probably just do both. Just to give you some info on the plans Montagu was built at Chatham launch and copper in 1779.  Some of the plans show her Large repair in 1803 so figuring out how she was framed and planked when she was built.For some reason some of the photos turn them self's up side down and if one of the mod's can help me fix that I would be most thankful   Gary









 

Hi Christian. If you go to the first page of the log, maybe the second post I made, you should see what the decoration of her stern and bow. I will put up Montague photo's of her sheer for you as soon as I have a cup of coffee and wake up good sir. If you want I can also PM them to you along with putting them up on the log. Gary

It's the end of the road for CAD work.
 
I'll be losing access to Rhino soon, so here's the final CAD screenshot. Everything else will be photos of wood from here on out.
 

 
This is the completed jig design. I'm not sure if all of it is necessary, and may not end up building it this way, but it would support both the keel and the cutout. I've also made the cutout opening wider in this version than my last screenshot. The jig height is set up so that the cutout is exactly halfway up the keel and it can be flipped over with zero change in geometry.
 
The bulkheads will only be used in the upside down position while placing the first five strakes. After that I think the hull should be sturdy enough to flip it over and remove the bulkheads and cutout.
 
I've never done this before so please tell me, does this sound like a sane way to build a model?
 
Next step will be printing out all my parts and backing the files up to the cloud for when I'm able to get Rhino again some day.

Hi Gary,
 
I am really intersted to have a look at the fotos of drawings.

Congratulations, just a beautyful model.

Hi Gary,
 
I am really intersted to have a look at the fotos of drawings.

Congratulations, just a beautyful model.

Congratulations, just a beautyful model.

Congratulations, just a beautyful model.

That's a nice idea. I am also building the cog "Wütender Hund". But if someone needs some picture of the Kamper Kogge, I made some pictures during a small trip in my holidays.

Thanks for the nice comments all. 
 
Chuck, we have this Hanse Kogge in card, your Wütender Hund in card, Chris's Wütender Hund in wood, that just leaves the wooden Kogge von Kampen kit, and we'd have Shipyard's full collection covered!
 
Any volunteers? Ages of Sail got a whole bunch of the wooden Koggen von Kampen kits...
 

 
 
 
Louie, thanks for the comments. On the coloring, like with most things, over time and repeated applications of protective coatings like pine tar oil, the darker the ship will be. Consider this a newish ship!
 
And, as for not wanting to work with card, I've completed a couple and find it a really fun medium. It's also a much "cleaner" medium than wood, as it makes little mess in comparison. The main feature that I find less forgiving is simply things that are pre-cut. But, they are also amazing time savers. 
 
I wasn't really feeling all that great yesterday, though much better today, but I'd just stayed in and did a few more things to the model. There is a ladder at the bow that I completed, as well as that beam the runs underneath those two heavy posts on the bulwarks.
 
As expected, the beam didn't fit correctly. In order to get it to fit, I had to remove one of the posts and also trim down the ends of the beam just a little. But, it worked, and I was able to fit the beam and glue the post back into place. When adding the knees to this assembly, I could see that the hull didn't flare outward at the top quite as much as it was supposed to, as the knees didn't sit right. However, the bulwarks are flexible enough that gluing and clamping the knees into place pushed the bulwarks to the correct shape.
 

 
 
So, next, I decided it was time to deal with the timberheads sticking up out of the bulwarks and all. Wondering why card modelers in Eastern Europe are always risking their fingers with razor blades, I thought I'd give it a try. I have plenty of half blades, which gives less "handle" for holding the blade, but maybe less risk of slicing the fingers with only half the sharp edges.
 

 
This turned out to work really well on the untreated card parts, but I had stiffened each of the timberheads with a shot of thin CA. It didn't work so well on those, and I was forced to lay the hull on it's side to support the bulwarks, while I chopped down on the timberheads with a scalpel. This worked out well. I then applied a little paint over the ends to clean up the cuts.
 

 
Next step will be to add a couple support knees to the bulwarks around midships and to begin assembling the rudder.
 
Clare
 

Almost done designing the new jig...
 
Bulkheads:

 
False Keel:

 
Assembled with keel in place:

 
First five strakes:

 
After the first five strakes are installed I will be removing the bulkheads/false keel assembly and turning it upright.
 
Next steps will be:
1. Design the uprights that hold the keel in place
2. Design the horizontal cutout with notches for the bulkheads
3. Design the strips of wood to go on the baseboard to hold the keel in place when upright
4. Slice the keel into cross sections and scarfs so I can build it up out of layers
5. Print templates and start cutting things out of wood!
 
I'm so close and so excited!!!

Shameless plug for Rockler Woodworking, I see! I am lucky to have one about 3 miles from my house.
 
What an impressive jig! Gonna spend some time looking at that one, because the more time spent, the more I think I can learn from it...

New keel complete and ready for cutting into layers!
 
I finally managed to get a perfect transition from T to rabbets:
 

 
The trick was to toss out the cross sections from the Saga Oseberg book entirely and cut them from the keel using the inner face of the garboard strake to define the shape. It's still nearly identical to the version in the book, but much easier to model.
 
Here's the completed keel altogether:
 

 
 
There are no rabbets cut on the stems because they had none on them in building Saga Oseberg until each strake was attached. They connected the stems without rabbets, and then cut the rabbets while fitting each plank to the stem and stern.
 
Next step: New smooth bulkheads per @AnobiumPunctatum's advice. I'm also going to do half as many bulkheads this time around, and only for the lower strakes. Once the lower strakes are in place I can add the frames and the rest of the hull should take shape on its own.

Chris,
 
I am not shure if I understand your problem right. I had saturday the opportunity to make a short trip with the replica "Kamper Kogge" and that is what the shrouds are looking on the real ship. So don't worry if they are not really parallel.😉
 

Chris,
 
I am not shure if I understand your problem right. I had saturday the opportunity to make a short trip with the replica "Kamper Kogge" and that is what the shrouds are looking on the real ship. So don't worry if they are not really parallel.😉
 

Got the yard braces and lifts done today. There remain only the sheets, tacks, bridles, and clew lines. Surprisingly, the otherwise extremely thorough photo instructions seem to have overlooked the clew lines, but they're shown on the plans.

Bolt ropes done, sail halves lashed together, sail bent to yard, and reef points done.
 

 
So, of course, yard had to be hoisted.
 

A wonderful picture. It's looking great.

Thanks guys!
 
With the attachment of the oars its finally complete.
 
It will now have to wait for a base and a lowered anchor with a kellet to be attached according to Mark's info above. But, as I said, this will have to wait, as I am moving houses towards the end of the year and it will be easier to pack and transfer it without the base.
 
So, I declare it done for now and will post a few pictures with the base when that is done, is a few months' time.
 

Finally finished chapter four in its entirety.   The deck is finally planked.   There shouldnt be much much planking for a while.  Pretty straight forward from my last update.  Just follow your lining out of the deck planks and take your time.   Match the tapering and curve of each plank just like you did when planking the outboard hull.
 
I will begin chapter chapter five by getting back to some outboard details.  First the cheeks and hawse holes...then the rudder.   Afterwards it will be back inboard to add the details to the bulwarks and the guns.
 
Feel free to ask me any questions.
 
Some photos...






 

Work on the aft upper deck has begun.
 
ben