AnobiumPunctatum

The description of my  reconstruction you will find here.
 
On Easter Monday the time had finally come. The keel of his majesty's frigate HMS Triton was laid.
 
First the 5 components for the keel were sawn out.

I have simplified the design of the joints considerably, as they will be completely covered later on by further components. I will continue to apply this principle during the further construction in order to adapt the building as far as possible to my craftsmanship.

The first cliff that had to be overcome is the joint between keel and lower stem. I worked this out with my milling machine and chisels.

 
After I had attached the wrong keel, the joints have to be dowelled. These dowels are a bit too big for the chosen scale, but I cannot draw pear wood thinner than 0.8 mm. I know that many modellers swear by bamboo, but I find pear on the finished model more discreet.

I have simulated the caulking with single-ply pulp.

The description of my  reconstruction you will find here.
 
On Easter Monday the time had finally come. The keel of his majesty's frigate HMS Triton was laid.
 
First the 5 components for the keel were sawn out.

I have simplified the design of the joints considerably, as they will be completely covered later on by further components. I will continue to apply this principle during the further construction in order to adapt the building as far as possible to my craftsmanship.

The first cliff that had to be overcome is the joint between keel and lower stem. I worked this out with my milling machine and chisels.

 
After I had attached the wrong keel, the joints have to be dowelled. These dowels are a bit too big for the chosen scale, but I cannot draw pear wood thinner than 0.8 mm. I know that many modellers swear by bamboo, but I find pear on the finished model more discreet.

I have simulated the caulking with single-ply pulp.

The description of my  reconstruction you will find here.
 
On Easter Monday the time had finally come. The keel of his majesty's frigate HMS Triton was laid.
 
First the 5 components for the keel were sawn out.

I have simplified the design of the joints considerably, as they will be completely covered later on by further components. I will continue to apply this principle during the further construction in order to adapt the building as far as possible to my craftsmanship.

The first cliff that had to be overcome is the joint between keel and lower stem. I worked this out with my milling machine and chisels.

 
After I had attached the wrong keel, the joints have to be dowelled. These dowels are a bit too big for the chosen scale, but I cannot draw pear wood thinner than 0.8 mm. I know that many modellers swear by bamboo, but I find pear on the finished model more discreet.

I have simulated the caulking with single-ply pulp.

The description of my  reconstruction you will find here.
 
On Easter Monday the time had finally come. The keel of his majesty's frigate HMS Triton was laid.
 
First the 5 components for the keel were sawn out.

I have simplified the design of the joints considerably, as they will be completely covered later on by further components. I will continue to apply this principle during the further construction in order to adapt the building as far as possible to my craftsmanship.

The first cliff that had to be overcome is the joint between keel and lower stem. I worked this out with my milling machine and chisels.

 
After I had attached the wrong keel, the joints have to be dowelled. These dowels are a bit too big for the chosen scale, but I cannot draw pear wood thinner than 0.8 mm. I know that many modellers swear by bamboo, but I find pear on the finished model more discreet.

I have simulated the caulking with single-ply pulp.

The description of my  reconstruction you will find here.
 
On Easter Monday the time had finally come. The keel of his majesty's frigate HMS Triton was laid.
 
First the 5 components for the keel were sawn out.

I have simplified the design of the joints considerably, as they will be completely covered later on by further components. I will continue to apply this principle during the further construction in order to adapt the building as far as possible to my craftsmanship.

The first cliff that had to be overcome is the joint between keel and lower stem. I worked this out with my milling machine and chisels.

 
After I had attached the wrong keel, the joints have to be dowelled. These dowels are a bit too big for the chosen scale, but I cannot draw pear wood thinner than 0.8 mm. I know that many modellers swear by bamboo, but I find pear on the finished model more discreet.

I have simulated the caulking with single-ply pulp.

Major Milestone for me today.  I glued and doweled the first frame to the keel.  I have spent the greater part of this past week adjusting the framing jig making sure it is perfectly square in all regards.  I shimmed and adjusted until everything is locked in to as tight a tolerance as practical.
 

Some details to notice.  Each frame is marked with a waterline that is supposed to line up with the top of the top framing jig.  The the photo below, It is the light pencil line on the inside of the frame right at the bottom of the pink spacers.  The spacers are .15" thick for reference.  One of the dowels securing the futtocks together can be seen.  Or, if you want to get technical, securing the stanchion to the 5th futtock :-). 
 

Here is a closeup of the frame to keel attachment.  There is no notch in the keel to accept the square frames, but they are glued and doweled. Later the keelson will be laid on top of all the frames., also glued and doweled.

Things I would do differently: I used a stout piece of .75" cabinet grade plywood for the jig base, but then used masonite for the top piece of the framing jig.  The masonite is only .11" thick and is too flexible.  The top sheet should be at least .25" thick.  
 
 

Item: the moulding along the knuckle of the junctions of the counters should be 1" below the lower counter plank as a drip edge. You can see this feature on contemporary models if you squat down! Your illustration is above incorrect. Also, the upper surfaces of the mouldings are parallel to the sheer, not the decks. If this is not the case, you will end up with an ugly joint at the corners with the quarter galleries!

Thanks, druxey, I'll try a few experiments....
So planking got really boring, I need a break. I will play around a little with the stem cheeks and hawser liners, as well as the stern structure.
Looking at the stern, first of all, I cleaned up the planking to match the curve of the upper counter, and could pin in place the two moulding defining the upper counter. This was best done upside down, and I held a small strip of sandpaper between the moulding blank and the surface to be sanded.

Turned right side up, I am starting to ponder how that lower moulding turns around the corner of the quarter galleries. To make a mitre between the stern piece and the side piece, the moulding cannot tilt as it turns the corner, so the side of the quarter gallery corresponding to the upper counter has to be the same slope as that of the upper counter.
 

 
So, I might try mocking up the quarter galleries, at least the lower half,  in cardboard to see how this all works before I try moulding the edges of these pieces. Unknown territory here...
 
Mark

 

I don't cut those small bevels: I run a  small sanding stick along at an angle to knock off the sharp edges evenly.

A quick update. I discovered this morning that the tops of the gun ports were not exactly faired. My best efforts at cutting each one as I planked nonetheless left a few slightly askew. So I put in a line of artist tape at the tops of the ports, faired it, and then trimmed a few ports here and there to line up. They were not off by much, but a little judicious filing straightened everything out. Having learned this, I will leave the planks over the upper deck ports a little full, to leave for trimming with a file later on.
 
I knew I had leveled the plank with the sill behind when the file began to show a little red, which was the stain I put on the underside of the sills before I started planking. I will have to touch these up when I stain the edges of the planking red at the ports; but it was a handy way to know where I was with filing.
 
 
 

 
 
 

Thanks, Paul, my wife is starting to get nervous about how long it is taking me to finish this project. She doesn't know what to do with it if I pass on before it is done, and I think she is looking forward to putting my ashes on it and floating it out into the lake on fire. She hasn't noticed that it has no planking below the waterline...So I thought I better pick up the pace a little with some shortcuts.
 
And thanks, Grant, I was afraid the secret would get out...☺️
 
We had a snowstorm last night, plus nowhere else to go while sheltering in place, so I got more done today.
 
I was finally able to trim the planking back to the lower and upper counters, turning the hull upside down so I could see what I was doing. This was pretty tricky doing, trying to clean up the edge flush with the counters, while avoiding sanding anymore into the counter surface itself. I wrapped sandpaper around half the length of a large dowel, with manila file folder stock wrapped around the other half. This was to ensure that the manila folder stock would ride on the counter surface as a stop, preventing the sandpaper from sanding any more when it got to the final surface.

Then turned upright again, I was able to attach the moulding at the top of the upper counter, just to see how the lines are looking. I still need to do some trimming on the planking at the lower edge of the upper counter, as you can see. You can also see in this photo how much the planking following the outboard sheer climbs quite high relative to the the line of the decks and therefore the ports. Although it is kind of visually awkward how the one just cuts across the other, it is also this exaggerated sheer that I think makes this generation of ships so beautiful.
 

 
 
 

At last, I finished the planking between the wales. Now there is a bunch of clean up to do.
First, I needed to fair the upper edge of the 4" plank. I cut the width of the top strake a little full to allow this. I replotted the line on the hull from my drawing, and used artist tape to lay down a fair line:

I then used a fine riffler, a smooth flexible file, and curved sanding blocks to clean this up.
 
Next, I needed to fill in below the ports in the 4th and 5th ports from the bow, with 6, 7 and 8 still to go. Strictly speaking, these would have extensions from the black strake, then thinned down to 4" to keep the line of the planking. But I decided it was easier to fill in than to cut the black strake full, then thin down. The difference is not noticeable, and I hope I have not disappointed anyone that I took this little shortcut...

Finally, tomorrow, I will turn the hull upside down and sand the planking over the tops of the ports flat to match the headers in the hull framing. This should clean up the line of the tops of the ports very nicely. And, I can finally clean up the ends of the planks at the stern to match the edges of the lower and upper counters.
 
Mark
 
 

Thanks so much, Marc. We had a scare with the virus with a relative in Denver, where the entire city is now locked down. Relative OK, now quarantined. But you have it way worse in New York City, Marc; stay safe!
 
Slowly moving along with the top strake of 4" plank. Just for fun, and for a break while waiting for glue to dry, I temporarily clamped a cheek on at the bow, and sat upon it a rough blank for the hawse liner. Still to be shaped, but it begins to show the lines relative to the planking. It is interesting to see how the cut down of the hull at the forecastle is not parallel to the outboard planking. It slopes down rather more towards the bow. I double checked the drawing, and this appears to be so the little deck at the bow is aligned more with the sheer of the upper deck, which it sits just above. This visual anomaly will pretty much be obscured by all of the head work later.
 
Mark
 
 
 
 

Hi everyone,
 
Here is an update, mainly to say that I am still around. I am proceeding aft with the uppermost strake of 4" plank below the channel wales.
 
After some recent family health scares, it is probably a good idea to spend some more time in the shop and think about positive things!
 
Mark

Finally finished gun dec. And are ready for planking.

Work has restarted on Pegasus, completing the upper planking and treenailing, then I have to machine the upper deck beams.
 
ben

Thanks Greg, that’s high praise from you!
 
ben

So it's been on to masting and sparring while David has been working on the carvings. With the completion of the masting and sparring we will have finished Volume Two of our Speedwell series and hopefully Sea Watch can get it to press in the near future. Fulling rigging plans are to be included in Volume Two as well. The masts and spars are of boxwood with the black portions ebonized with Fiebings dye.
 
By the way, the mast tops were laser cut by Chuck (Syren Ship Models) based on our plans and I believe they came out very well. I'm sure Chuck will offer this technique for other ships or products as it greatly simplifies construction of these complex pieces.
 

Really nice progres Jorge. I like the coloring of your model.

Really nice progres Jorge. I like the coloring of your model.

Hello again, as mentioned above, I was looking for a cheap scroll saw,  well I got one on Ebay,  only £50, so to try it out I busied myself cutting out the bulkheads for Winchelsea, but every time I looked in the workroom there was Triton waiting patiently for me to do more work on her.
So back to planking and starting at the keel I fitted the garboard and began working away from the keel.  Limiting my self to 3 strakes at a time is a must otherwise I would lose myself in modelling as time flies when working on these projects. Hopefully I'm getting better with Chuck's edge bending method and I'm also getting a little less messy with CA glue,  although I'm still sticking my fingers to planks inadvertently 
Anyway thanks for dropping by and the likes til next time. 
Cheers 👍😉

Hello everyone, I managed to get the first belt of planking done over the weekend and did the last of the six strakes today. Next time I shall fit the garboard strake and work the next belt from the keel.
Thanks for the likes and dropping by.
Cheers 👍😁

So regards the starboard side planking, it is done, but it's not the best,  in fact if I  wasn't going to copper it(I would like to get a bit of practice for when I finally get Chris's Speedy)I would rip it off and start again, all the problems I've had come down to my lack of preparation 😫 I was far to eager to start planking and now it's bit me.
LESSON LEARNED 
The port side as you can see needed a bit of shimming on the forward 3 or 4 bulkheads (poor initial cutting) but after more than a few hours work I think its probably good to go. 
So I've used thread to line the planking belts and next I will mark planks out and fingers crossed I'll get this alot more accurate and acceptable. 
I think that starting Winchelsea is still quite a long way off.!!
Thanks for looking in.🙂
Cheers 👍
 

Hi again,  bit of a set back on the planking, I took off the planks at the bow as I had not put a drop plank below the wale and could not get the second belt of planking to run correctly. Hopefully now it will and I can make progress again. 
Also I need to sort out how the planking terminates at the stern because at the moment I don't think it is working out, so I may be removing a few planks and re-fitting them when I've figured out what to do.
Thanks for your interest and likes👍
Cheers 😃

Hola mis amigos.