AnobiumPunctatum

The following photo shows two new carvings and also structural divisions to divide off the area for the individual carvings. The first carving below the two rectangular windows shows the sun radiating from the centre with ribbons on the top sides. The second carving is above the windows and has a harp in the middle with a crown on the top.
 

 
More to follow.......

Well, the move and the months of renovations in our new home is finally over. The shipyard officially re-opened yesterday and I was able to relax and contemplate the work ahead on the Sovereign. When setting up the shop, it quickly became apparent that I had forgot where certain things were packed and it took awhile to find items to get them sorted and away. So many boxes............

As I got down to work, I found that my multitool drill was not working as the power cord was frayed and broken where it entered the end on the unit. The first work in the yard was to take it apart and re-solder the cord. With that complete I started work on the port side where work to divide the hull into sections to house carvings is needed.
 

More to follow.......

Good Day
 
After completing the lesson plans and working through additional books, I have now started to put this knowledge to use. I am using the body plans of Santisima Trinidad.
Firstly, I had to convert the plans to a svg format (with CorelDraw) and then uploaded it into F360 (created a project, Body plan and parts by stage folders.
2nd Sketch:  is the start of the outline, which I have redrawn and still busy with it.
1st Sketch:  is the start of redrawing the lines. The "Caja de Forma" took a better part of 3 hours to draw, as the lines where not accurate. I measured the length and counted how many boxes are there. this gave me the basis on which to draw and should the last box be slightly bigger I tool the difference and re-divided it and continued until I got them all on the same dimension.
 
I will continue redrawing and posting a log.
 
As I am a novice to using CAD and redrawing plans, I beg of you all, to assist and tell me where I am going wrong. It will be greatly appreciated as this will also serve as an inspiration to others to take the plunge and learn, with the advice and assistance from the experts.

Bending the forward piece of strake 7

About the model:
As they say, "No time like the present" and as I'm stalled on Licorne by several non-hobby issues, I'm starting this one to take my mind off things.  I have the plans scaled down from 1:48 to 1:64 I'll be drafting plans for building the ship as the ANCRE monograph doesn't have drawings pre-made for such things a frames, keel, etc.
 
As the title states it will be a POB build as there's next to nothing in the plans of the below deck area. 
 
I'm making decisions at this point will working on lofting the bulkheads, keel, etc. on the types of woods.  Most likely I'll Swiss pear for the external planking, some ebony or ebony stained wood for the wales and other bits and pieces, boxwood for the keel, stern post, and bowspit.  Not sure yet about the decks.   As for the bulkheads and some internal bits that won't be seen, I'm deciding whether to use Baltic Birch plywood or Yellow Ceder.  It may come down to cost on this though.  I'll be using the DeathStar for at least marking the wood to be cut for the bulkheads but not ruling out cutting as that will depend on the wood selection.
 
I selected this ship as "next" as it was the more famous of the ships involved in the battle that brought the French into American Revolutionary War.   
 
Here's the history of Belle Poule and some pictures of the plans and the monograph.
 
La Belle Poule is a 12-pounder class of frigate with 26 12-pdrs on the gun deck and 10 6-pdrs on the forecastle and sterncastle.   
 
History:
 
La Belle Poule was built in the shipyard at Bordeaux starting in 1765 and launched in 1767.  \
 
From 1772 to 1776, she was on hydrographic missions around India.
 
She returned to Brest in 1776 .  At the time, France wasn't engaged in War, but there were numerous incidents.  
 
April, 1777, Belle Poule was chased by a British ship of the line (unknown which one) and after evading her, returned to Brest.
 
December, 1777, Belle Poule transported Silas Deane back to America along with the news of the French-American Alliance.
 
On 7 January, 1778, she was stopped by two Britich ships of the line which demanded to inspect her and her Captian, Charles de Bernard de Marigny replied:  "I am the Belle Poule, frigate of the King of France; I sail from sea and I sail to sea. Vessels of the King, my master, never allow inspections."
 
17 June, 1778.   The famous battle between Belle Poule and Arethusa occurred which was actually celebrated by both countries.  It was this battle that brought France into the American Revolutionary War.  Note that Licorne was captured by the British.
 
After this battle, she did numerous patrols.
 
14 July 1780.   Belle Poule was overhauled and after a two hour battle with Noncuch (64), she surrendered.
 
Feburary, 1781.  Belle Poule was commissioned by the British.   She participated in the Battle of Dogger Bank later that year.  A footnote is that her Master during this period was William Bligh.
 
November 1782.  Belle Poule went to ordinary and also served as a British recieving ship.  
 
1801.  She was sold off.
 
Plans, etc.
 
I'm using the following references:
 
Le Belle Poule Monograh by Boudriot and Berti
The Art of Ship Modeling by Frolich
and lastly, the only build log I could find that actually is showing the process unlike most that just show the finished ship:  https://5500.forumactif.org/t3216-la-belle-poule-de-1765-au-1-48-par-guydal
 
Anyway, a bit long winded but I'll be back when I have my cut sheets, plans, etc. ready and start making sawdust.
 

Also,  I made a quick bowsprit at about 37+ inches diameter (Ree's says it is 36" diameter) to see how it would look.
I am not happy with the gap and so will make it a little larger.
No one will be taking a caliper to it!
 
Then I researched the finished shape of the cap end of the bowsprit to accept the BEES and made notes.
I'll be making a good bowsprit soon enough to have a change of pace... after all they say a change is as good as a raise!


 

Really nice progress

Hello dear friends, 
I am very grateful for your support and comments, your words mean a lot for me. I'm flattered and do appreciate your praise. Thank you all very much.
 
I believe the Royal Katherine will be my best card model after finishing, but there are several things and details I should improve in the model and during the build I try to correct or do them better. I do not continue very fast although want to add something new on the model as often as possible.
 
Well, I try to do realistic model, but have to say, it is really hard. Next time I am going to relax and build something according to complete building plans. The Royal Katherine is the most chalenging project I have ever realized.
 
 
Wefalck: Plenty of my tutorials and videos have been posted here, so please look through my thread. I am going to add others in the future. 
I don't have experience with other materials, so I can't recommend anything else. I am satisfied with this one I use. 
 
I build card models more than 30 years.I am not sure if I understand well your second question ( unfortunately my English is not very good), but I try to devote my greatest effort to all parts of the model. I usually put also a "part of myself" into building these models - not only my modelling skills, but also "emotion" and "love". 
 
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The belfry is finished and now I am continuing with other pieces of decoration on another railing... I try to create it according to museum models from that period to achieve more realistic result. Unfortunately there are no exact plans or drawings of these parts of the Royal Katherine, so I have to improvise a bit.....😉
 

Enjoy the pics and have a great time.

Best regards,
Doris
 
 

The low railing is completely made of wood due to its higher strength:
 

 

And another bulkhead completed and placed in model.... The brass bell is not my own product, it is one of few things on the model I have purchased as finished accessory.
 

 

Placing the largest guns  "cannon-of-seven" in the hull. 
 

 
The carriages were placed into the hull separately and then I added cannon barrels to them. It is possible to move and set them as necessary.
 
 

My back is much better today, just in time for our club meeting tomorrow at Lee Valley Tools in Niagara Falls.
I wonder if I'll find any new toys there this time?
 
After pondering on it a while (and watching Kenny's video again) I decided on a method to sand the 3'-5" diameter bowsprit clearance hole in the stem post head and bollard frames.   I over thought it, trying to be more accurate I realised I over thought it and my method didn't work so well so it was abandoned mid stream... as will be explained.
 
First I had to determine the angle of the bowsprit and so brought out my trusty parallel ruler and a protractor.  I found the angle was 30°.
 
I was going to sand a taper on a dowel from a diameter under the width of the stem post to the finished diameter so I could rotate and feed the sanding plug through the assembly of bollard frames and stem post but in the end I decided to use an undersized dowel and wrap/wood glue a layer of sand paper to it.   Next I layed out a scrap block of wood, drill a hole for the dowel at 30° and clamped this to the table.  I thought I'd slip the dowel into the block which would help me maintain the angle, rotate the dowel/sand paper and sand the profile into the head of the stem post.  The bollard frames were pinned through to each other near their foot so they could rotate.  A clamp located near the top acted as a stopper so they would rest against it in the exact proper location when rotated forward.  I could then open these up and holding/pinching with my fingers while rotating the dowel I'd cut the shape into everything.
 
Well that didn't work.  My finger pinching idea was not adequate... I needed gorilla fingers to hold it.  The rotating of the sanding stick did not work as it gripped the stem post and caused it to twist the whole frame.  I did manage to start a profile in the head of the stem post but it would wander.
 
I abandoned the angle guide block and sanded with an in/out or forward/aft motion and this work well but I could not see if I was centred on the stem post head.  I took an HB pencil and coloured the top of the post with graphite to darken it.  As I sanded away the wood and graphite I could see the pencil mark width remaining and determine I was indeed on centre.
 
I then swung one bollard post up and pinching the one I was able to start a groove in it at the proper angle.  I marked the head of the stem post location onto the bollard frame and sanded it off the model and on the work bench.  I repeated this for the sister frame.
 
I then glued a second layer of sand paper to the stick over top of the first to increase the diameter., then repeated the sanding operation.  Finally I glued a third layer and after the third sanding routine I was done.
 
Following are some photos.  The bollard frames are presently glued, pinned and clamped in place.
 

Just to give everyone a really good idea of what this model will eventually look like....here is the first plan sheet.  No worries about piracy as this one is just a pretty drawing.   No part templates.
 
Download a pdf.....Winchelseasheet1a.pdf

Thanks Everyone 
 
Mast partners completed, I was thinking about adding hatch gratings but have decided not to to allow what can be seen of below as much as possible.
 
now to decide on what to work on next.
 
 
ben

I am really happy, that your build log will come back.

Lower deck framing continues up to beam no.9. This can be frustrating work to keep  everything correctly spaced and symmetrical, constant adjustments need to be made as well to account for drift.
Layout for the aft framing including the beam arms can be seen.
 
ben

Its easy enough to change that......I will make a slight adjustment.  Its easy enough for folks to change if they want to as well.  They just have to change the angle of the flukes if they want.  
 

 
Chuck

1/12 for a Swan Class Sloop would be a dream. 1/32 is the biggest scale which is possible for me. Fully rigged the model would be 5 feet long and around 3 feet height.
I own Alexanders drawings for HMS Anson and think if it is possible to build a hull model with all frames in 1/32. But this is a project if I am retired because a lot of time and much more experience than I have is necessary.

Congratulation for finishing this beautiful model. It was a long journey, also for the readers of your log. But it makes a lot of fun to follow your  progress. Thanks for sharing.

Really beautiful, Chuck

Congratulation for finishing this beautiful model. It was a long journey, also for the readers of your log. But it makes a lot of fun to follow your  progress. Thanks for sharing.

Congratulation for finishing this beautiful model. It was a long journey, also for the readers of your log. But it makes a lot of fun to follow your  progress. Thanks for sharing.

I have finished the base.  I am not totally satisfied with it but it will do for the time being.  The base is marble and the edges were roughened up.  The pedestals are turned from pear and drilled to accept a threaded rod which screws into a captive nut in the keelson.  Thanks everyone for following this five year epic journey.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Really beautiful, Chuck