AnobiumPunctatum

I i had taken a bit more care with makin the frames it would have made things easier later on ,but i still had it in my head that i would start from scatch again . All i can say at this atage is i have learned quite a bit in a short time and know i will need to learn a lot more before i finish . While waiting for planking to dry i started the bottom deck and as the pic shows it will need some parts replaced to square it . I hope to be able to work with the frames as they are ,with a lot of sanding and a few alterations . The deck frames and keel are the only pear wood i have used and must say it,s a pleasure to work with besides the oak ,plus the tight grain is a lot more realistic looking . The planking and thick stuff are from old stock rather than waste better woods 

Really nice Progress, Chuck.
I like the size of your Version 2, much more possibilitie to play with details.

Really nice Progress, Chuck.
I like the size of your Version 2, much more possibilitie to play with details.

Really nice Progress, Chuck.
I like the size of your Version 2, much more possibilitie to play with details.

Really nice Progress, Chuck.
I like the size of your Version 2, much more possibilitie to play with details.

Thanks...I still have to edit it.  Its on the list of things to do.
 
Below is a dry fit of the bulkheads and stern frames.  All looks good to go for the next step.
 
And just this one time only...I dragged out the old dusty and broken 3/16" scale version of the Winnie for a size comparison.  They are lined up at the stern so you can see the difference.  What a mess the old model is....full of dust and filthy as well as busted up a bit.
 



 
 

The small side of the stool bed must have a rounded notch. I make it with a round file

The bed lays with a nick on the metal truck. The nick is sawn out with the jigsaw.

The parts of the gun carriage

The gun carriages are assembled with the help of the middle piece of the jig.

Gluing the transom.

Gluing the stool bed

To make the cap squares I make simple jig. I saw a piece of hard wood in two, clamp the two halves together and drill a hole in the middle.
Foto 360
Giving form to the cap squares is now simply done with the help of a drill and a hammer.

Two finished gun carriages after being stained.

Hello,
 
today I finished the lower counter. 
 

 

 
The only thing left here, is to cut the mortise for the gun port lid into the rail. 
 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks for your appreciation, Ward.
It is the moment to make the most important equipment of a 18th century warship: the artillery.
I want to cast the gun barrels in tin. To make the casting mold, I turn a model of a gun barrel in wood. I start with drilling the hole for the trunnions next to the center line of a piece of olive wood.

Then I turn the barrel in accordance with the plan.

I leave a funnel-shaped appendix at the gun mouth. It will form the pouring opening in the casting mold.

The mold will be made in a small wooden box in which fit the gun model. The purpose of the two small planks with the conical wooden pins next to the box will become clear soon. The two nails in the trunnions keep my gun model in the middle of the box and will also make two air tunnels in the mold through which the air can escape when pouring the melted tin in the mold.

The mold will be made with a heat resistant silicone. It consists of a red colored raisin which has to be mixed with 2.5% hardener.

My box has a volume of about 22 cl. I start with making 10 cl of silicone and pour it in the box. I press the gun model in the silicone until it sits approx. halfway in the fluid.

 I lay also the two planks with wooden pins on the box in such a way that the tops of the pins are sitting in the silicone.

A day later the silicone is hard (or soft like rubber) and the pins can be removed. They form four conical holes in the top of the bottom half of the mold. All silicone spills on the wooden gun model are removed. I spray some release agent on it.

Now I mix again 10 cl silicone and fill the box.

A day later the mold can be dismantled and the two halves can be taken token apart. In the bottom half of the mold are the four pits of the wooden pins and in the upper half four protrusions which perfectly fit in them. They make it possible to join the mold perfectly.

I use tin for plumbers to make the guns. It is sold as rods of about 30 cm long, pieces can be sawn of with a metal saw. My melting furnace is a simple spirit fire and a small sauce pan.

The melted tin is poured in the mold.

Some ten minutes later the mold can be opened. Be careful because although the tin has solidified, it is still very hot.

The pouting funnel is sawn of and I drill out the mouth of the gun.

All the mold seams are filed and the barrels are blackened.

Let's just say that the redo is taking just as long as the first attempt.  I have not cleaned it up yet but I think everyone will agree that it looks better (I hope).  Next on the agenda is making the carvings to be applied to the munions.  These will be similar to the ones between the stern windows.
 

 

 

Good morning.

Thank you Vivian!!
 
I started with the installation of pins ..
 

 

 

 
The first piece is polished. After waxing the pins will be beautifully seen ..  O.
 

Hello There Folks, 
 
Some great news involving the OcCre model; we have reached an agreement and they are providing full attribution of my research and plans (even on the packaging). 
 
More info here, including a chance to win a model kit! 
 
https://buildingterror.blogspot.ca/2018/04/building-your-own-hms-terror.html
 
Now after all this diversion...back to my own model!
 
Cheers, 
E&T
 
P.S. Yesterday was the 171st anniversary of the desertion of HMS Terror and Erebus. 

Thank you very much. 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 282 – Main Yard Rigging 3
 
Bowlines were used to control the leeches on large sails.  When the sails were bent, bowline bridles were lashed to cringles on the sides (leeches) of the sails.  On the model without sails, the bridles are tied off to the jackstays where they would be accessible to topmen when rigging the sail.  The first picture shows the bowline gear.
 

 
The bowline bridles, in this case two-legged, have eyes spliced in each end and pass through bullseyes at one end of each "lizard".  The bowlines, themselves, pass through the bullseyes at the opposite ends.  The standing ends of the bowlines are made fast to the lower ends of the topmast stays, pass through the lizard eyes, and are belayed on the foremast fife rail.  To avoid the falls rubbing on the roof of the main cabin, the two lead blocks shown in the picture were secured to the stay below the standing end fastening.  The attachment of the bridles and the upper ends of the lizards are shown in the next picture.
 

 
These lines serve well to square the model main yard and assist in holding it down.  The bridles are tied off at locations on the yard near where the cringles on the sail would be when it was raised as a rolled up package.  These and the other lines would then be fastened before the sail was loosed.
 
I have expected that belaying lines in the confined space between the cabin and fife rail would be one of the major rigging challenges on the model. I wasn't disappointed.  The next three pictures showing this work and the belaying of the main topmast staysail downhauler illustrate the problem.
 

 
First, the staysail halyard and downhauler were rigged.  The halyard may be seen running parallel and below the topmast stay.  Its lower block is shackled to the downhauler that passes through a smaller lead block on the stay and belays on the athwartship fife rail just forward of the cabin.  The two bowline lead blocks are also fastened to the stay legs below the downhauler block.  These are then also belayed on the fife rail. The next picture shows the tangle of lines involved and the small working space.
 

 
Apart from the difficulties of belaying lines in this small space with interferences from the shrouds and other obstacles, the two bowlines had to be tensioned together to hold the yard square.  Both were looped under their pins, adjusted to square the yard, then each belayed on top.  Finally, another view of the work in progress.
 

 
This job took special tools, quite a few hours, and a number of expletives.  The last picture shows this stage of the main yard rigging completed.
 
 

 
You may note in this picture that the shroud lanyards that have been seen loose in previous pictures have now been wrapped and secured.  Some rope coils have begun to be fitted forward where belaying is complete.  There is still much of this to do and also quite a bit of ratline work on the upper main mast and mizzen.
 
Ed

Thanks!!!
 
I never posted how I am going to handle the shifted or bent frames.  This is how it will be done.  Its basically the same as the traditional frame you saw already where you flip over the pieces for a better fit.  BUT....the top timbers are 1/4" thick vs 3/16" thick like the other parts of the frame.  You can see the components below.  After making so many of these I have found that it is best to glue the two pieces for each side of the frame together first.  Note how the top timbers (2-C) are thicker.
 


Once the tightbond is dried, I dont sand any of the char off yet.  But I did remove the alignment tabs to make shaping the shifted top timber easier.

Then I glue some specially prepared templates to the outside edge of the frame showing the bend as shown above.  I used rubber cement but anything low tack will work.  Then its just a matter of shaping to match the template.  I used a sharp #11 blade to just shave away the majority of the wood that needed to be removed.  Then I used some 220 grit sandpaper to finish it off nicely.  Once done you can remove the template as seen below.  Then its just like any other frame where you glue these two parts to the other frame sections.
 

 
 

I did reach a milestone of sorts.  I have completed all seven frames in phase one.  The frames will be built and installed in three phases to make it easier to manage.  Phase one has seven frames.  Once the frames are all done and dry fit in the keel,  you can start adding the port framing.  The port framing is tricky but manageable.  You will be removing the frames quite a bit to tweak them and the slots for the port sills so you can get a good fit.  Same is true for the sweep port framing.  Once you have the port framing dry fit nicely,  then we can glue all the frames in this phase permanently to the keel.  Then glue the port framing in too!!!
 
I havent glued it together yet....but that is the next step.  What you see in the photo are all the frames and port sills simply dry fit port and starboard.  I will glue it all together after the Connecticut show.  Then the frames can be faired outboard...and the alignment tabs you see on the inboard side removed as well...but I get ahead of myself.   Then its onto phase two and another seven frames done exactly the same way.
 

 
 

Hi Chuck. 
This kit has got to be one of your best sellers. 
Someone needs to compare a quality cross section like this with one of those from the East. 
I know of someone who bought a expensive one from EBay and it turned out to be rubbish  and the quality of the wood was very poor.
Most things did not fit as expected.
 
So I will be waiting on Chuck to release the kit. I love my cross sections.
You are a real artist when it comes to model ship design.
 
Regards Antony.
 

Thank you Srodbro!!
I marked the whole left side with a spike and immediately started drilling 0,65 mm holes. There's cca 1600 of them on one side, but it's going unexpectedly well..
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

The left part of the hull is finished and ground before installing the pins..
 

 

 

 

 

Thank you very much Backer, Ferit KUTLU..
 
The planking continues, difficult places at the stern under the mirror already done..       Bow closed and ready to install pins ..              

I continue tiling the hull..             I have already roughly straightened the mirror ledges..              

Garboard Plank..
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I read on this forum that the Mermaid class frigates underwater hull were painted with white stuff and later (for HMH Triton in 1779) were coppered. Some of the cross section builders show both versions, one side white and one side coppered. I decide to follow their example. Starboard side will be white and port side  coppered. Here you see starboard side:

In our local garden center I found copper strips to protect vegetables in the kitchen garden against snails. It consists of a copper foil strip which is self adhesive. Probably  effective against snails, but certainly effective for ship modeling.

To obtain a nail pattern on my copper strips, I draw the pattern on a piece of wood and drill the nail holes (ø 1.5 mm).

In each hole I put a 1.5 mm nail of which only the head sticks out of the wood surface. As I will glue the copper sheets from under to above and from aft to forward, I wait to place the nails of the upper- and left edge. They will be each time covered by the previous layer. When gluing the upper layer, the upper edge will be nailed as well.

To imitate the nail heads on the copper plate, I lay the copper strip on the nail bed and rub with my finger over the copper sheet until the nail heads are embossed in the copper foil. Thereafter I cut the copper to the right dimensions, in this case 2x6 cm).


As the copper foil is self adhesive, the fixing on the hull goes easily.

Coppering finished!

 

I have been swamped with trying to rebuild my inventory before the Connecticut show.  But yes I have made some progress but nothing really new.  I basically have caught up to where I was on the earlier version.  This is where I am at right now.  The good news is that I have completed the set up in shop for some serious model building after the show.  I am ready to go and have set up an area to take better pictures.....hopefully.  Right now everything is kind of thrown onto the same table....as you can see.