Redshadowrider

Rudder & Cap Rails -

Finally made some progress since returning from vacation.  You know the type, more tired when you get back than when you left?  😀   Mostly from driving too many miles in too short of time.  

Now back to construction.  I have been stalling on the cap rails for some time now.  Mostly, I wanted to get a lot done before adding them.  And, I decided to buy  a micro scraper rather than build one.  Anyway, Saturday, I got the scraper and today, I completed adding the rails, and painting.  I need a little more sanding here and there, but for the most part, they are done.  (I know, my guess is this isn't the last time I touch them up.)  😃

Also completed mounting the rudder, although, I do think I need some more clean up.  I added the pintles and gudgeons using CA, now it needs to be cleaned, and some nail heads put into the straps.  Pics too.....

Hi Guy’s,  

Made it back from vacation, and have returned to the building table.

Not too much to report on so far, so no pics.  Got the rudder shaped, plated, and the false keel added to the hull and rudder.  Also, was able to drill the hole for the rudder and needs just a little paint inside and out.  
 

Next step is the gudgeons and pintles and I am not looking forward to this step.  The only reason is the soldering.  You would think that with all my plane experience, I would be good at it by now.  I am getting better, but it’s still difficult to get a good looking weld.

Will update soon. 

She's plated!!!!!!

Well except for the Stem Knee and Stern Post, but those will be cake to get finished.  I am certainly glad that I never signed on to shingle a roof.  I wouldn't have been a roofer very long.  Any way, after the stem and stern, It's on to the rudder which I am looking forward to.  However, now I will be on a short vacation, so no ship building. I did clean up both starboard, and port plates with acetone just to make sure all is clean.  Now, I might just let the patina come naturally, but may look into helping along.  Either way, I will be ok with it.

Now pics:

All Dressed Up and No Where to Go:  

Well, actually, the starboard is next.  Just finished the port side copper plates and now it is onto the starboard.  I can say, that I am getting tired of looking at the bottom of the ship, but it is getting there.  I am happy that it turned out like it did, but it is nerve wracking just laying them out and making sure that the butt joints do not end up on top of the one below or above each one.  On a couple, they did end up pretty close, but I will let you find them.  🙃

Newbie Points:

     1.  Be sure to dress up the black portion of the waterline when you get close to it with your plates.  It is

           much easier to retouch BEFORE you have plates to mask off.

     2.  I cleaned up the whole side with acetone so that any finger prints, or sticky backing glue left on the    
          plates was removed.  

     3.  Keep an eye on each plate, it is easy to punch a hole for a nail head.  It's not a big deal, but when the

          plate is installed, the hole can leave the wood underneath exposed.

     4.  If you don't like the way a plate looks, remove it.  You will always know it is there.  

     5.  I burnished each plate just after installation, rather than wait.  The plates can move a little, and you    
          might need to reinstall them.  I found this worked well for me.

Stamp, Cut, Separate, Paste:

Here is an update on my progress in adding the copper plates.  Not much to say except there is a lot of work in this phase.  I have been able to separate the backing from the copper side fairly easily, so it could be worse.  So far, I am ok with the outcome, but I am getting close to having to cut the plates for the dressing belt and it looks like it can be tricky.  

Newbie Note:  I recommend using a jewelers visor to make it easier to place each plate correctly.  Although that may be because my eyes aren't what they used to be.  AND....  With the visor on, I can see a small amount of the adhesive is squeezed out of the sides when you burnish each plate.  I recommend wiping it down with Acetone, which is what I did. 

Well, I ran out of stamped plates, so back to work. 😄

Thanks,  @WalrusGuy I was hoping that was it.  😊.  I have been looking through your build, and that of @NovaStorm and @Overworked724 to see if I could tell.  Also want to thank all of you for your input and assistance with my build.  It is appreciated.  👍This type of kit work can cause one to overthink each step.

Progress Made + A Question:  

Question:  In the paper plans that came with the kit, the placement of the plates is indicated.  I have taken the 2 halves and taped them together for a good starboard view.  I see some stealers in the rows, and am wondering if that is just a depiction of row on the hull as it flattens, or are they needed?  I had no problem on the planking, but am not sure how to cut/install for the copper.  I will be checking threads, but am wondering if they are critical and do I just eyeball them?   OOPS....I guess that is really 2 questions.🙃

And...pics of my progress:

Copper Test and Confetti Fest:

I completed the stamping of approximately 40-50 plates for the port side.  At that point, I decided to test the installation of them on the hull.  This is a nerve wracking step, to say the least.  My hands shake already, and placing the plates correctly is a challenge.  Before, I continue, I thought I would get some input from other builders.  If I need to do them over, I will, but I am somewhat satisfied with the first ones.  I have also found that as I add them, I get better at handling them. 

Here is a first picture of my effort.  In the picture, you can see my progress, and the tools.  First on the tool line is scissors (duh 😄), that is followed by the small hex driver that I am using to burnish them onto the wood, a pile of used plates (this does not, in any way, mean that they are still usable on the ship 😂)  The tweezers are for installation, X-acto knife for removing the backing, confetti, the holding pad, and the spare plates. 

The holding pad is a double sided sticky pad that we use in the RC planes to hold down receivers to keep vibrations to a minimum.  I put each plate copper side down and hanging slightly over the edge, (one is showing), then I use the X-acto knife to carefully remove the backing, and then pick the plate up with the tweezers.  The pad is just sticky enough to hold the plate still while removing the backing and, by hanging over the edge, I have a place to grab the plate when ready.

If anyone has a suggestion on a different way, or even if you think I should redo the plates already on the ship, I can handle it.  😄   I can say that I won't be able to spend long hours adding the plates, my back is killing me..LOL

A'stamping I will go.   

Not sure how many plates I will need for each side, but I will make plenty.  It's been awhile because I ran into a little problem on the stamp for the Port side.  Basically, it broke on the side when I was adding the t-pins and as it goes, I didn't have any scrap wood of the same size.  Sooo, off to Lowes (my second home) for some hard wood.  I settled with red oak...well truthfully that is what they had.  Anyway, got the Starboard stamp completed and went back to stamping....until the Port one broke.  I hadn't used hardwood on it, but it was the striker part that snapped.  Who knew that putting it on cross grain would make it weaker?  Well, everyone, including me.  I put it back together, and to both starboard and port stampers, I added a metal striker plate to each.  (Shown in the pics)  Now back to stamping each plate.  

Thanks @Overworked724, I should have guessed you did it earlier.  Although yours is more complex, we started about the same.  I am using T-pins since they work out to be the perfect size, and are made out of stainless steel.  I hope I don’t regret  not putting an aluminum plate behind them. 🤞 I will add to my thread with pics.  I finished the Starboard stamp, and tested using a tack hammer.  The first one came out pretty good.  

Your ship is looking fantastic.  I was hoping you had reached the copper plating part so I could see what ingenious tool you put together for stamping.  Alas, I am going to have to go it alone. 😁😁  I am going to test stamping by placing a flat headed bolt in my drill press and using pressure to make the nail head impressions.  I am hoping this will put less stress on the stamper in the instruction book. Keep up the great work.

Plate Stamping Tool:  It has come time to put together a copper plate stamping tool.  I have read several threads on here that show how different builders have approached it and I have started mine.  Basically, I hunted my junk stuff (which I have tons 🙂)  And have started the construction.  I am pretty close to being finished, but didn't have enough T-pins for the stampers.  I am creating (as indicated in the instructions) a Port and Starboard stamper and it is shown in one of the pics below.  I am planning to use T-pins for each stamper as they are just the right size.  And they are stiff enough to not bend since they are made out of stainless steel.  I have used them for years in building planes and thought I had plenty...  oops.  Well I will have them tomorrow.  I will continue with a couple of additional pics when it is ready.  

Here is what I have so far.

In Need of a Shave:  The first round of tree nails are drying on the deck and awaiting trimming and sanding.  I say first round, because, I am not totally convinced I need additional ones.  The center of the deck where most of the furniture is, will need them at plank ends, for sure.  However, since I made the planks 20 scale feet in length, they are shorter that the 4 bulkhead size.  Because of that, in looking at the deck, I think that at the butt end of each plank is enough to keep it from becoming to busy.  The center will have quite a few and will fill the bill.  Adding additional tree nails to some of the long boards seems to be to be overkill.  If I had used the 4 bulkhead sizes, I would probably feel differently.  

And now the pics:

Chapter 8 - Plating:  Well almost.....

I have to make the stamping tool, and start punching out the plates, but first....

There are 2 items left to do before I move onto the plating.

First, I need to add the cap rail.  I have the wood for it, but I need to transfer the shape to it by tracing the hull shape.  AND... Second, I need to tree nail the deck, sand and refinish.  I will start on the tree nailing first so that I don't have to work around the cap rail.  It is much easier, and allows a little larger space to work in.  It's not a huge deal, but whether I add it now or after, I also gain not hitting it ...  you know I will.  😀    

So, I started adding the deck furniture, so I can save on the number of tree nails I need.  Any drilling, gluing, sanding, and refinishing that I can avoid is welcome.  Particularly, since I just did all that with the deck.   So I have started cutting out each piece, and then will know where the nails need to be.  I have the original for measurements, and copied the deck plans that I get the parts from.  

And lastly, I foresee not using the building board with the clamps after the copper plating is in place.  So I built a set of hull stands to save any marring of the plates.   Here are pics:

Oops.... I did go through several.  🤫
My apologies to @NovaStorm who posted the idea on a thread of @WalrusGuy  .......my bad.

Thanks, I knew I had seen something before, so I did some looking.  And, I found your post, and glued two 1/8” planks lengthwise in a L shape.  The waterways are sanded and drying with their first coat of Tung oil.  I also have them in my bending jig adding the bow curve.  They are so thin, even bending them dry is easy.

Next step is to put one final coat of mixed flat red and brown on the bulwarks and transom.  The scuppers still need painting after adding them with a needle file.  I will add a couple of pics when done.....and then it’s the copper plating. 😃

Thanks, @Overworked724.  I have to say that I am very pleased at how it turned out.  That first cut into the margin plank was nerve wracking, but after that, it got easier.  Then as the details jumped out as I brushed on the Tung oil, I couldn’t believe the difference.  Today, I completed filing out the scuppers, and am trying to figure out how to do the waterways. Although, I am still not sure how to file/sand a piece of square stock only 1/16” thick at a 45 degrees.  Next, I need to start assembling the press for each copper plate.  Until then, I just sit here and look at how it came out.  😁

Knib One, Purl Two..........😀

Just finished the deck, sanding done, and first coat of Tung oil on.  If you don't look close, you can't tell I didn't get staggering the butts 4 planks apart.  For some reason, I just had a problem with it.  I am pretty sure it was at the start and it was based on a difference in plank lengths.  One of the books I read had planks on a ship this size at 20'... or 3.75 inches.  So I cut quite a few planks ahead of time. (My Bad)  The instructions say to use a 4 bulkhead stretch, which would be much longer than than 20'.  I couldn't make a 4 board pattern work with such short planking.  So I put down whatever worked.  And I don't think it came out half bad.  Anyway, no one else will know..  😎

I test fit the waterway before I added the Tung oil, and it is right at the 1/16" the instructions call for.  After the surface dries, I will do the deck lay out, so I can add the tree nails where needed.  And I will note one item.  I noticed that the tree nails on the bulwarks did not have a clean look.  I am attributing that to the wood I used is pretty soft.  Once they were in, I think the tree nails deformed slightly during sanding and finishing.  I think I have some harder wood of about the same color and am planning to use it for the decking.

On another note.  I am glad that I held off on the cap rail until now.  With it not being installed, I have just a little more room to work on the deck and waterways. 

Here are a couple of pics:

Yes, I am adding pencil to the planking.  I think it will be more visible when finish sanded, and the Tung oil brushed on.  I was pretty lucky in the margin planks.  I only needed a little sanding, and their flex was enough to clamp in place for gluing.  I do have a space heater for the garage, but when the temperature is below freezing or below zero, as it was last week, it’s just too small.  And, we don’t get that cold here very often.  Thanks for the nice comments.  I have learned a lot about ship building and many of the working skills have transferred from my primary hobby.

Snow, Ice, and Covid:  

Well, no, I haven't been slacking off, but weather and such has conspired to slow me down.  However, I have completed the margin planks and the first set of planks for the deck.  All the ones that are covered by the deck furniture are in place and now, it is nibbing I will go.  I have copied the deck layout and will cut out each deck grate, etc, so I can lay out the location of the tree nails.  And, I will start my first nibbing exercise.  The garage (my dry dock) has been too cold to work in, so I brought what I could indoors.  Here are the pics of my progress.

Ready to Plank:  Not much else to say at this time.  Other than 1 vaccine shot down, one more to go..  next week. 😀

Warmer Weather & Progress:

Although I say warmer, it is pretty relative.  For here, when you get to the temperature that you can glue and paint, you have to move forward.  

Just finished the inboard bulwarks, with one coat of paint, and minor filling on the transom cap.  Still needs another coat in order to balance out the coverage, and a little flat black on the cap edge front.  Then I will do as others have done, start the deck planking before the cap rails are installed.  Just seems to give a little more room and shouldn't make a difference.  (Unless I missed something.)

Question on the Cap Rail:  Although it is a little out of focus,  the outside planking at the bow extends higher than the deck side with the bulwarks sticking out above.  If I sand it level, it will cut into the sheer strake and I can't tell from the pictures in the instruction booklet.  I have counted the planks above the port sill and I have 6, but in pictures of the bow planking there are 7.  Leads me to believe that the plank does not extend the entire length of the hull.  

(Never mind this question.  I reviewed several build blogs and found out how @Overworked724 handled the same issue.  I am moving ahead.) 😊

Any input on the sanding of the cap rail bulwarks is welcomed.  (Here are some pics.)

On 1/23/2021 at 8:15 PM, Overworked724 said:

Those trim pieces turned out very nice, Red!  Hope the scraper was easy to make. 

LOL.....  Before I got the discs, and the scrapers, I decided to try my hand at doing them myself.  I used an awl for the grooves, and a few rippler files to smooth it, then I dipped into Tung oil and hung them up to dry.  Thanks for the compliment.
I do have the scrapers and the cutting discs now.  It should be easier now. 🙂

Between changing the carronades, the sculpty, and not joggling  the planking,  you sure keep me thinking. 😊. I may not go the same direction, but it does keeps me considering other ways to build.  On the 3D products, like the carronades, I have had some experience with them too.  I tried a 3D printed headset for one of my scale pilots in one of my planes.  It was so brittle that it broke into pieces just in assembly after painting.  You ship is looking great and I am wishing mine could be as clean looking.  Although, I am leaving some minor clean up until later.  Next step for me is the thinning of the bulwarks and onto the decking.

Yep, Still Here:

I can say without a doubt that the toughest part of this build so far is the stern and transom.  Numerous small separate pieces that need cutting and shaping so they fit together.  Add to that the cap rail, it is a phase that needs a lot of attention, then add the painting and it becomes a challenge.  Not one that cannot be overcome, but one that can be frustrating at times.

Add to this, cold weather stops and starts, keeps one from getting into the flow of the build.  However, I am 99.5% ready move to the next chapter with only a small amount of clean up and detail painting left.  

Onto Chapter 7