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marsalv

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Everything posted by marsalv

  1. I installed top mast stays and backstays. I had little fear of small mice, but in the end it went quite well. Now I await installation a lot of blocks to the top mast top area. There are many blocks in limited space.
  2. Thank you Joe . You´re right. All futtock staves are made from brass wire (diameter 0,5 resp. 0,3 mm) and the served with thread.
  3. I continue with top masts, shrouds and ratlines. Work goes slower than I expected. But the model starts to increase in height.
  4. So I finished perhaps the worst part of standing rigging (at least for me) - crowsfeet. I had to redo it several times before I achieved at least partially satisfactory look - ie. crowsfeet rope stretched as far as possible without "lifting" the stay.
  5. Installation of lower yard jeer tye blocks and top final assembly. Slowly it begins to take shape.
  6. The belaying pins and cleats are installed on the shrouds.
  7. You're partially right. The first two pictures are the futtock staves and third are the catharpins. But the futtock staves don´t run through the end of catharpins. Catharpins are attached to the futtock staves with thread witch is going through loop in the catharpins and about futtock staves.
  8. Thanks for nice comments to all . To GuntherMT: The catharpins are made form one thread - see picture tutorial.
  9. Little progress - futtock staves nad catharpines are installed.
  10. Hi to all, the most useful books for me are the following: - Masting and Rigging of english ships of war - James Lees - Rigging a sixth rate sloop of 1767-1780 - David Antscherl Citation from the second one: "In reality there was an eye spilce in each end of line that was then seized to the end shrouds, and the line clove hitched around each intermediate shroud. For model work, unless you are absolute purist, this can be simplified by omitting eye splices and seizing." It is also my case, I used the clove hitch for all shrouds. The knot is finally fixed with small drop of diluted PVA glue.
  11. Hi Alex, beautiful work. Your log is great inspiration for me.
  12. Hi GuntherMT, there is odd number of grooves on the wooden ring, each groove contains one thread. I used a single thread and weaved it around to make a spiral - this is reason why skeleton must contain odd number of thread. If you use even number of thread in skeleton, you can not use a single thread, but you must use a new thread for each row in mouse - this is not good idea.
  13. All the ends are secured with diluted PVA glue to the stay. It is very important that the "skeleton" from thread must contain an odd number. Then just drag out another thread throughout the "skeleton", alternately one under, one above thread. It is little difficult and time-consuming work. The stays (and their accessories) is ready and installed on the model.
  14. Thanks Bedford. Next part - mouse for the main, fore and mizzen stay.
  15. I have finished the shrouds instalation. The used dead eyes are not ideal - groove for the rope is too big and the rope is hidden in the groove. I will try to make my own dead eyes for my next project (Pandora).
  16. Works on bowsprit rigging are cpmpleted now - bobstay shrouds, bowsprit shrouds, boomkin shrouds) and main stay collar.
  17. Thanks Nigel . Bowsprit is attached to the hull. A few pictures of the gammoning and rack-blocks. .
  18. Hi Alex, wonderfull . Your log is great inspiration fo my work.
  19. Hi again, after a short break I would like finally finished my Royal Caroline. Although most of the parts are already done, there is still a lot of work on the sails and rigging. I started slowly preparing blocks and auxiliary cables on the bowsprit. Jib traveller will be mounted later on bowsprit.
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