achuck49

Once again, thanks for the info.  I was just looking at various photos of completed models and wondered about loading and unloading.  What a rough way of making a living.
 
thanks
 
Chuck

Thanks so much for the info and the wiki. I have bookmarked it. Should this type of detail be included in model kits or is it to much?

When looking or building ships like Cutty Sark, all of the masts and spars have a purpose. All of the blocks and tackle are used. So where are the cranes located that would be needed to load and unload cargo? On the dock?

Question: how do I mark the title 'finished'?
 
I wanted to have sails flapping in the wind,as the craft fly's across the Black Sea.
Reality bites again, I fear that any attempt to do anything else will result in damage to the paper thin deck.
 
 

Question: how do I mark the title 'finished'?
 
I wanted to have sails flapping in the wind,as the craft fly's across the Black Sea.
Reality bites again, I fear that any attempt to do anything else will result in damage to the paper thin deck.
 
 

Sincere thanks for the incredible responses.  I should have waited but had an idea and proceeded. 
I have some clear 'Gorilla' tape which I lightly applied to the keel.  This type of tape is thicker than usual. I used a sharp blade and traced a line, moved the cut tape to some heavy paper and cut again. I had a good copy, placed the paper against the keel and with a sharp pencil copied the line.  Repeat process and mission accomplished. 
 
I do want to thank everyone 
Chuck 

Sincere thanks for the incredible responses.  I should have waited but had an idea and proceeded. 
I have some clear 'Gorilla' tape which I lightly applied to the keel.  This type of tape is thicker than usual. I used a sharp blade and traced a line, moved the cut tape to some heavy paper and cut again. I had a good copy, placed the paper against the keel and with a sharp pencil copied the line.  Repeat process and mission accomplished. 
 
I do want to thank everyone 
Chuck 

Sincere thanks for the incredible responses.  I should have waited but had an idea and proceeded. 
I have some clear 'Gorilla' tape which I lightly applied to the keel.  This type of tape is thicker than usual. I used a sharp blade and traced a line, moved the cut tape to some heavy paper and cut again. I had a good copy, placed the paper against the keel and with a sharp pencil copied the line.  Repeat process and mission accomplished. 
 
I do want to thank everyone 
Chuck 

Sincere thanks for the incredible responses.  I should have waited but had an idea and proceeded. 
I have some clear 'Gorilla' tape which I lightly applied to the keel.  This type of tape is thicker than usual. I used a sharp blade and traced a line, moved the cut tape to some heavy paper and cut again. I had a good copy, placed the paper against the keel and with a sharp pencil copied the line.  Repeat process and mission accomplished. 
 
I do want to thank everyone 
Chuck 

Good day, 
I am starting to work on a model of a schooner.  On one side of the keel is a printed set of lines indicating rabbit lines, placement of other parts and information of this sort.  How can I accurately transfer this information to the reverse side of the keel which is blank?
 
TIA

I am bidding on this model now and am reviewing your log with interest. 
 
Why didn't you plank the deck before installing the bullworks?
 

Such a simple idea 
 
Thx

Worked on the rigging the rudder

 
Time to start attaching blocks. I am trying to attach as much as possible now. Per my calculation, I have to do 6 more.
 
 
And the deadeyes. I will have to do a little paint touch-up.

I am bidding on this model now and am reviewing your log with interest. 
 
Why didn't you plank the deck before installing the bullworks?
 

Question: how do I mark the title 'finished'?
 
I wanted to have sails flapping in the wind,as the craft fly's across the Black Sea.
Reality bites again, I fear that any attempt to do anything else will result in damage to the paper thin deck.
 
 

Greetings and Salutations,
I have wanted to start a build log and successfully complete a build log for a long time.  I have a true mental block when it comes to building a hull that is not solid out of the box.  Master Korabel has all the parts and pieces precut so I figured ‘how hard can this be?’.
The Cannon Jolle 1801, was up for auction and I won the bid for about 1/3 the original price.  This supports my opinion that this will not be a hard build.  Expensive kits are hard, inexpensive kits should therefore be easy.

 
The box is about 14"x8" inches and it is full of empty space because inside the parts and pieces are very small.
 

 
Please notice the size of the kit when compared to a U.S. dime.  Well this means that I need a smaller work space for this particular kit.
 

 
Even though the written instructions are in Russian, the photos of the actual build are clear and concise.
 
I will finish this log.  It good then great, if bad, then everyone can learn what not to do.
 
What can possibly go wrong?
 
Chuck A

I am bidding on this model now and am reviewing your log with interest. 
 
Why didn't you plank the deck before installing the bullworks?
 

Well it's almost June - time to get back to the Dallas.
 
I've been delayed by a mixture of work, another model (1/20th scale Tardis ), getting my garage cleaned out, planning, and of course the omnipresent procrastination.
 
I'm finishing off a few deck items prior to starting the rigging. I've also decided to redo the masts, I think they can be improved.
 
A the moment I'm doing the pivot gun, starting with the track. I had previously re-made this but was not entirely happy with the result. 
 
In the original model this was just a flat ring of plywood (this was destroyed when I removed the old deck). According to this site http://www.globalsecurity.org/military/systems/ship/sail-armament.htm, it should be
 
"The pivot gun mount typically consisted of a metal ring, or 'circle' of from 9' to 12' in diameter, on deck and brought level athwartships by a wooden foundation. This circle was usually of iron, though copper and brass could be employed. The section of the circle was a shallow "U" shape, hollow side up, about 5 1/2" wide and 1" thick. The inside and outside rims of the top were raised 1/2" and were about 1/2" wide, creating a track in which the rollers traveled."
 
I was fortunate to find a nylon bearing that made the construction a lot easier. I made rims from 1/64" plywood and the inside from 1/16" basswood. These all had thin tissue glued to the surface prior to cutting thin strips. The strips were then laid into the nylon bearing and glued. When dry, I was able to sand the ring so that is was thinner by using the bearing to hold it.
 

 
 
A couple of coats of black paint and I have the best track I could do.
 

 
According to the details in Chappelle's "The History of American Sailing Ships", a cutter this size often had a long-gun rather than the carronade supplied in the original kit. A long-gun is show on the plans in the book. So I am going to use a long-gun on the Dallas ( ).
 
So now I'm off to make a gun carriage.
 
Richard
 
 

Your Juno project is fascinating particularly when I am heavily into the Confederacy.
It would be interesting to have some of your photos (very well done by the way) with
a ruler along side the project.
Regards, Harley

thank u  garward for that info i will try thos  will post more pic . ps going to try make jig for the bends with a scrap pic frist soo how its going befor i do the real one

Question: how do I mark the title 'finished'?
 
I wanted to have sails flapping in the wind,as the craft fly's across the Black Sea.
Reality bites again, I fear that any attempt to do anything else will result in damage to the paper thin deck.
 
 

The Smoke Stacks were assembled and painted earlier, as were the Port and Starboard Running Lights. The Braces that are placed between the Stacks posed a question of how best to attach the threads that run across the outer tips of the Braces from A to E. I posed this question on the Forum and the responses suggested I might create the attachments by stretching sprue to make thin pieces of plastic. In the end, I decided to stick with thread and it came out pretty well.
      The Hog Chain Braces (3 on each side) and the rigging was added.
    Next the Lifeboats and Flag Poles were installed.
      Guy Wire Rings and Cargo Posts were installed on each side of the forward Deck.     The Front Deck parts were added:
7 Cleats
Capstan
2 Chocks
3 Guy Wire Rings
2 Derrick Boom and Mast Assemblies
2 Gang Planks
2 Anchor Assemblies
    It’s now time for the Rigging. I will substitute the black thread that came with the model with a heavier thread that I found in the jewelry-making section of a craft store. The same thread I used on the Hog Chain Braces. I used the lighter thread on the Smoke Stack Braces.
   

Thanks!!!
 
Doing it now 

Good Afternoon,
S
In a week or two I plan on building a plastic paddle wheel model.  I believe that this is the correct order for painting
 
wash all of the parts in something like Dawn dish soap
spray primer over everything
remove pieces as necessary, assemble, and then paint.
 
Have I got it right???
 
Should I paint the parts while still attached to the (forgot the word) large collection of parts, then assemble?
 
Is enamel paint better/same/worse then acrylic?
 
Should I get a bunch of rattle cans containing the appropriate color paint?
 
Chuck
 

I think these questions cannot be answered categorically. Points to consider:
 
- the glueing of styrene is rather a welding, so painted surfaces do not stick together
- you have to able to carefully remove all the flash, ejector marks and sometime reshape parts, when the moulds have not been carefully aligned; this may be best done, when the part is detached from the sprue
- when using enamel paints, there is no need for priming, as these paints usually slightly dissolve the styrene and therefore stick very well
- the fewer layers of paint, the better; this includes primers
- for a static model, that is not handled, I would carefully degrease the surface with dishwashing liquid and then even paint directly with acrylics (railway models are handled frequently and the railway modeller, therefore, would give you advice to the contrary)
- the amount of paint coming out of a spray-can cannot be controlled very well and using these is better left to large surface areas, such as hulls
- some parts are, indeed, easier to paint, when on the sprue, but this only works, when the area where the parts are attached can be hidden
- notwithstanding the glueing issue, it sometimes better to assemble parts of the same colour first, as you may need to clean-up excess glue and fill-in seams; the paint may also hide seams
- if possible, parts of different colour are better painted first and then assembled