peterbrowne

Very hard to find out of print book in very good condition.

Only issues are a small tear on the dust cover bottom edge on the corner of the spine, another small tear on the rear of dustcover at the base, and a very small fold on the dust cover rear at the top edge.

No marks on the inside.  Binding is perfect, and pages bright, clean and crisp.

US$110 + SHIPPING FROM AUSTRALIA

Kolderstock make an electric plank bender which is similar to Aeropiccola bender, which doesn't seem to be available.

https://kolderstok.com/en/products/elektrische-plankenbuiger

230V - 50 Hz, 30 W and comes with a European plug.  I am told by Kolderstok that it will work on Australian 240V 50Hz power with an Australian plug adaptor  So I am ordering mine.

In the US, I believe the power supplied to houses is 240V, but stepped down to most outlets to 120V, but there may be outlets available at 240V for appliances requiring more power.

Cool!  Thanks Hornet, nice looking build!

Peter

Thanks DavidG and catopower.  Clears up that question, though I'm sure I will have more... 

Feast Watson is made by Dulux (Australia) paints.  Quite possibly only available in Australia.  Here it is sold in Bunnings hardware stores. 

You should be able to find similar if outside Australia. 

I have used this particular product on Sapele (same family as Mahogany - Meliaceae), as you can see in my photo with no loss of colour.  The prop is composed of 8 layers of 1mm Sapele 'Mahogany' and has a nice smooth satin finish.

OK, just about to start planking my first wooden ship the Occre Bounty Launch.

I have looked around for other builds of this kit, but there is only one of any real content, and that doesn't show the full build.  There seems to be another, but looks like it was deleted by the owner Fifthace 😐.

In the Occre instructions, they state to:

Quote

Glue and pin a strip (41) into place on both sides of the launch, 3mm  from the top end of each frame.  Continue lining, using the strips (41) until you have completed the hull.

In the Part List, 41 are listed as "Lining strakes" 2 x 5 x 400mm and 35 of them.  The strakes are measured as accurate.  These are shown bottom pic at the right.

Now, there are also 'Hull lining" in the Part List 0.6 x 5 x 400 also 35 of those (actually a bit more...).  These are in Sapele. These are shown bottom pic in the centre.

What I'm confused about is that there is also a bundle of same sized wood in Lime wood also 35 of them (actually a bit more...).  These are shown bottom pic at the left.

But there is only the Sapele bundle in the part list...so 3 bundles of 35, but only 2 in the part list 🤔

So I assume I use the Lining stakes to initially plank the hull, then have a choice on using the Sapelle OR the Lime strips for the second layer of planking.  Would that be right to assume?

Pardon the obvious Noob questions🙂

+1 for Iwata. 

I have very reliable Iwata HP-CS and HP-CP airbrushes that are a joy to use.  The latter (more expensive) brush has an adjustable knob at the end to vary the airflow to get extremely fine results. 

For compressor, make sure you choose one with an air tank for smooth airflow.  I have a Sparmax TC-620X, but also have had an Iwata Power Jet Pro - they are both very high quality professional compressors - the Iwata compressors are made by Sparmax I'm told. 

I recommend investing in the best compressor you can afford.

I have used Feast Watson Sanding Sealer for previous projects with great success after finishing sanding with the finest available paper. 

You should be able to find similar.

https://www.feastwatson.com.au/products/indoor-products/prep/sanding-sealer/

You could use even Micro-Mesh sanding cloths to get a very fine or mirror finish without any grain texture depending on what you are after, then finish with a suitable lacquer.

https://tarhouseguitar.com/products/micro-mesh®-polishing-sandpaper

I just started working on this kit.  Good to know that the floor planking and thwarts should not be added until after the hull planking is done to enable sanding of the insides.  I also want to paint the inside before attaching the flooring, thwart.benches as I want these to be in mahogany like this recreation in the National Maritime Museum Cornwall

You could modify foldback clips. 

Marek Janczyk from HobbyZone Poland advised me in November that the Slip is undergoing some redesign and will be available in February/March 2021:

https://www.hobbyzone.pl/en/boat-building-tools/26-professional-building-slip.html

I have now done the same with the Occre 1/45 kit of the HMAV Bounty:

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/26961-length-of-occre-hmav-bounty-124-comparison-to-admiralty-plan/

As a sequel to the thread on the length of the Caldercraft 1/64 HMAV Bounty, I have looked at doing the same for the Occre 1/45 kit.

Occre have supplied me with the profile of their plans (see attached PDF) with a stated measurement of 690mm from the aft of the stern to the forward point of the beak (I'm sure there is a better term...):

The length of the HMAV Bounty on the Admiralty plan is 90 feet or 2743cm (judging by the rule on the base of the plan...Wikipedia has the length at 90' 10''). 

At 1/45, that length 2743cm is 610mm using this tool.  I have added that measurement to the above Occre image.

As a point of reference, that section corresponds more or less to the one on the Bounty thread which is 429mm @ 1/64:

It would seem then that the Occre kit is pretty accurate in the length, as is the Caldercraft kit as indicated in the previous thread.

As a second comparison, I have overlayed the Occre profile onto the Admiralty profile of the Bounty (Admiralty modifications to the Bethia). 

Looks pretty accurate, though a bit deep in the keel and the masts a bit aft of those on the Admiralty plans (mainly foremast and mizzenmast, mainmast is not bad).  Still I would say that is pretty good!

Large image (23mb)...

Occre Bounty.pdf

17 hours ago, trippwj said:

For those with an interest in the 1794 version reprinted in the original size, DN Goodchild offers the following:

 

Hardcover Elephant Folio

STEEL'S ELEMENTS OF MASTMAKING, SAILMAKING AND RIGGING
edited by Claude S. Gill
A reprint of the 1794 edition with five very large pocketed plates. An essential reference to the ship modeler and all who love early square rig. Every conceivable aspect of rigging and sails is covered here, including a number of tables for the dimensions of the standing and running rigging. There is also an excellent section with very fine engravings of all known types of sailing vessels at the time; including many that are rare indeed, and many from Asia and the Pacific. Those of you who read and treasure Patrick O'Brien will find this work a ready reference for rig and ship types. First published in 1794.
Publisher's Note: Our reprint restores the Elephant Folio (11" X 17") sizing of the original volume which was reduced in the 1932 reprint which has been out of print for some years.

Arranged, with an introduction by Claude S. Gill, 300 pages, $65.00

 

 

 

 

http://shellbackslibrary.dngoodchild.com/index.php?rt=product/product&product_id=1405

Highly recommend the four volume set The Elements and Practice of Rigging, Seamanship, and Naval Tactics by David Steel. 

Published by Cambridge University Press and available at https://www.cambridge.org/gb/academic/subjects/history/military-history/elements-and-practice-rigging-seamanship-and-naval-tactics?format=WX

2 hours ago, mtaylor said:

To be honest, I doubt very seriously that any model kit by most of the older companies will be 100% accurate to plans, etc...

Well yes Mark, I would generally agree that would be the case in all disciplines of modelling, even with modern plastic kits which have the capacity for great fidelity of detail and high accuracy.  There always seems to be something not correct, even with the better companies (the only exception I can think of would be Wingnut Wings).

Coming from 1/32 aircraft plastic modeling, and being somewhat of a rivet counter (as we are), I would always seek the most accurate kit and make modifications where necessary.  Otherwise, I would always be looking at something that I knew wasn't quite right.  I guess modeling naturally attracts the type of person.

So getting at least the basic things correct, like the length of the ship, is a good starting point.  The rest can be worked out from there. 

Actually I was quite surprised that the Caldercraft Bounty was so accurate in the length compared to the Admiralty plans, pretty well spot on.  One of the joys I find in modelling is doing the research.

Looking again at the images graciously supplied by Thunder, I can see the the centre of the Stem post is at 4.5cm on the measure.  The base of the stern is at exactly 47.5cm on the measure.  This is good. 

475mm less 45mm = 430mm.

So the length on the Admiralty plans between those points (90 feet or 2743 cm)  matches the length +-2 mm  between those points on the Caldercraft plans (430mm). 2743cm (90 feet) @ 1/64 = 428.594mm

I'm impressed.

Thanks Gregory and Thunder for helping with this 🙂

In terms of overlaying images, this is prone to error, as images can be distorted (e.g. through the scanning or printing process).  Even the Admiralty plans would have suffered from shrinkage over time.

OK, thanks for the replies, and thank you Thunder for your assistance and the images. 

The Admiralty plans should be the source of truth.  Those plans have some stated measurements, including extreme deck length,  but not the Length Over All (LOA), which originally means not including any spars.  The rule on the bottom of the plans therefore need to be used to determine LOA.

The rule goes from 0 to 90 feet.

I have marked zero and 90 feet with vertical red lines in Photoshop.  The zero line is on the base of the stern.  The 90 foot line is approx in the centre of the stem at the bow.  That length is 90 feet.   Measuring out to the forward side of the stem would seem to be about 91 feet, judging by the graduations on the rule.

If someone would care to measure that section (as indicated on the image below) on the Caldercraft plans?  That length, 90 feet, if accurate on the Caldercraft plans, should be @ 1/64  428mm...

Possibly a red herring, but the 1960 replica apparently built from Admiralty plans is 169 feet in length (LOS).  This would appear to be 44 feet too long...and she looks it in the photograph.

http://www.stpetersfiesta.org/Bounty.htm

BTW I'm using this handy online scale conversion tool:

https://www.ginifab.com/feeds/cm_to_inch/scale_converter.html

3 hours ago, Gregory said:

A drawing from " The Anatomy of the Ship " shows the bowsprit to be 35 ft.

 

It looks like forum member/Moderator  Matrim , finished that kit.

 

You might ask him how the plans compare to the draught from NMM.

Will do, thanks. 

If modeled accurately, the bowsprit would add another 167mm to the hull length of 433mm @ 1/64 scale then, with a 1:1 length of hull (2768 cm or 90' 10'') and bowsprit (1067cm or 35') = 3835cm (125' 9.8'')...

This would make a 1/64 model with length of 433mm (hull) + 167mm (bowsprit) = 600mm.  The Caldercraft kit is stated by Caldercraft at 660mm.

The Caldercraft site states that the length is 660mm.  Is this the hull, or does it include the bowsprit and anything else?  Someone who has built this kit care to measure?

This is to determine some basic accuracy of the Caldercraft kit. 

The real Bounty is mentioned as being 90' 10'' (2768.6 cm) in hull length (LOA or LOD?) though this length is not evident at least to me from the Admiralty plans unless looking at the rule at the base of the plan.  The stated length is the Length of the Range of the Deck at 84 feet 6 inches.  The rule appears to indicate the original LOA (not including spars) being approx 90 feet, which I will use.

At 1:64 this should be around 433mm.  This would make the bowsprit more than a 1/3 the length of the model...which may be correct?

Thanks.  I wouldn't want to buy anything that is below par, nor anything that might harm the legitimate industry and community.

I will wait the Vanguard boats to become available and compare to Caldercraft.

Just wondering now about the Occre Bounty in 1/45 again.  Mainly for the larger scale.  If I did this kit, I would want to close up side that is meant to be left exposed to show the interior.  Occre state there is no enough timber included, but they can supply the additional wood.  Also available elsewhere of course.

Any potential things to look out for with doing that on this kit?