Gabek

Thanks for the comments, Mark. I'm using a Microlux saw...the one with fixed blade height. The ripping blade is actually thicker than the cross cut, but I can see that it tips away ever so slightly from the fence as I feed the stock through. Just half a mm is too much. I've played with feed rate, types of fences, etc, but I end up ruining a lot of wood. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! I'm wasn't even aware of slitting blades, but I checked them out and I'm on the hunt for one!  
Thanks, Mark! It really jumps out at you when you see the Anatomy of the Ship drawings. The deck clamps, beams and spirketting all line up on joints as well. I also wondered why between decks would be so low...it seems like the builders were more concerned with the hull's integrity than sailor comfort! 
Here's a pic from AotS Pandora

Finishing the thick stuff in the hold and a sticky conumdrum
 
I mentioned in an earlier post that I was going to remove the deck clamps in order to replace them with anchor stock styled ones. I had actually decided to leave them as is. I was worried that I would just make a total mess of it and possibly damage things if I tried to remove these pieces. Besides, at this scale I doubt that anyone would even notice the clamps under the mess deck. ( I was mentally composing my excuses and apologies to you folks for changing my mind

Thick stuff
Just about fed up with my little table saw...particularly the ripping blade. I just can't get consistent results. I switched over to the cross cut blade and I now have less trouble setting it up and ripping strips, but this blade leaves much rougher edges that need sanding. Well, a little bit of elbow grease is worth keeping my blood pressure in check by reducing my frustrations!
 
Moving along with 1.80 mm thick pieces for the thick stuff. I sanded the edges to get matched pairs of planks and marked them to make sure I butt up the right pieces and sides.
 
 

 
Although I knew there was a reason, I could never figure out why the planks on the inside of the hull were different thicknesses. I figured it had something to do with stability of the hull, but why were they placed where they were? Now that I have built up some frames and I'm at this stage of my build I understand exactly why. The thick stuff planks line up perfectly with the joints in the futtocks, supporting them.
 
Thick stuff lining up with a futtock joint - as seen from outside the hull:

 
Why didn't I realize this before? I think there must have been thick stuff between my ears!

Thick stuff
Just about fed up with my little table saw...particularly the ripping blade. I just can't get consistent results. I switched over to the cross cut blade and I now have less trouble setting it up and ripping strips, but this blade leaves much rougher edges that need sanding. Well, a little bit of elbow grease is worth keeping my blood pressure in check by reducing my frustrations!
 
Moving along with 1.80 mm thick pieces for the thick stuff. I sanded the edges to get matched pairs of planks and marked them to make sure I butt up the right pieces and sides.
 
 

 
Although I knew there was a reason, I could never figure out why the planks on the inside of the hull were different thicknesses. I figured it had something to do with stability of the hull, but why were they placed where they were? Now that I have built up some frames and I'm at this stage of my build I understand exactly why. The thick stuff planks line up perfectly with the joints in the futtocks, supporting them.
 
Thick stuff lining up with a futtock joint - as seen from outside the hull:

 
Why didn't I realize this before? I think there must have been thick stuff between my ears!

Build log part 94
 
 
COMPLETE
 
 
This post rounds up and completes the 29 months build duration of my HMS Pegasus in scale 1:64.
 
After putting on rudder chains, all bow-lines with their bridles to the squaresails, and appropriate rigging, the crew and some naval infantry men shipped in today to take over an interception and patrol mission in the northern Atlantic. Perhaps there will still be anchor buoys fitted to the lower fore-shrouds....
 
Its been much fun to do this build and especially it`s extensive rigging with all those tiny blocks, but now she is a nice sight with all those sails and pushing her wake, riding on starboard bow with braced sails. Putting on nearly all lines the actual ship had, it was a good lesson in rigging. Next  week I`ll put the final pictures in my Gallery.
Now its time to do the glass display case for dust protection.
 
Due to the modification of the 12 sheet Amati plan set, and building it from scratch (no kit) there are :  the large open port side, the half planked decks, the interior decks and the visible inside fitting out. The POB scratch built ship`s boat is an extra, and the access to the forecastle is by a seperate stair / ladderway .
 
Many thanks to all that visited this build along the ride from beginning on, and so many thanks to all comments and appreciations, and "likes", it has been a pleasure and was very encouraging for me
 
here are the first 10 of appr. 20 final pics......
 
Enjoy the pictures
 
Nils
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Thick stuff
Just about fed up with my little table saw...particularly the ripping blade. I just can't get consistent results. I switched over to the cross cut blade and I now have less trouble setting it up and ripping strips, but this blade leaves much rougher edges that need sanding. Well, a little bit of elbow grease is worth keeping my blood pressure in check by reducing my frustrations!
 
Moving along with 1.80 mm thick pieces for the thick stuff. I sanded the edges to get matched pairs of planks and marked them to make sure I butt up the right pieces and sides.
 
 

 
Although I knew there was a reason, I could never figure out why the planks on the inside of the hull were different thicknesses. I figured it had something to do with stability of the hull, but why were they placed where they were? Now that I have built up some frames and I'm at this stage of my build I understand exactly why. The thick stuff planks line up perfectly with the joints in the futtocks, supporting them.
 
Thick stuff lining up with a futtock joint - as seen from outside the hull:

 
Why didn't I realize this before? I think there must have been thick stuff between my ears!

WOW, way cool.  Time to sell everything that is not nailed down in my house on eBay.  If I didn't make enough money on that, take out a small loan, get it and make wooden clocks, sell those to pay off the loan. 
OR
Just wait a couple of years and get it.  It will be affordable.
 
Overkill?  Probably..... how about 3D printing?  In a couple of years this will be all automated with lots of extra's and add-ons. Then we will all be Professional CAD/CAM designers and when all the drawings are done, hit the button, and the following day we have all the parts for the ship.  Sand and glue and voila....... you have a model.  "Look honey, I just finished the Santísima Trinidad and I only started six months ago". " Next in line will be the Victory which will take me about three months".  "Then the armed launch which should take no more than a week or two". "Then I will sell all these models and buy my next CNC machine with X amount of axels".
 
Just think, the market will be flooded with crappy models from Asian countries.
 
Marcus

Hmmm...time to invest in lotto tickets, I think. (On top of the floggings, etc, my admiral would probably cut off my grog as well!)

Sorry, Pete! On the positive side, the people around you now have another gift option for you! Start filling that wish list on the Lee Valley site.
Regards,
Gabe

Hmmm...time to invest in lotto tickets, I think. (On top of the floggings, etc, my admiral would probably cut off my grog as well!)

Hmmm...time to invest in lotto tickets, I think. (On top of the floggings, etc, my admiral would probably cut off my grog as well!)

Hmmm...time to invest in lotto tickets, I think. (On top of the floggings, etc, my admiral would probably cut off my grog as well!)

Hmmm...time to invest in lotto tickets, I think. (On top of the floggings, etc, my admiral would probably cut off my grog as well!)

Sorry, Pete! On the positive side, the people around you now have another gift option for you! Start filling that wish list on the Lee Valley site.
Regards,
Gabe

Sorry, Pete! On the positive side, the people around you now have another gift option for you! Start filling that wish list on the Lee Valley site.
Regards,
Gabe

Nice work, Gabe.  And that's a neat trick with the calipers.

Sorry, Pete! On the positive side, the people around you now have another gift option for you! Start filling that wish list on the Lee Valley site.
Regards,
Gabe

Coming along great, very nice build.   Wish you hadn't posted the link to the clamps, Now I will have to get some!!!!  Thanks for the information. Looking forward to more

Thanks for the likes and the comments, Mark and Per!
 
The black machinst's clamps are also from Lee Valley: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=68938&cat=1,43314
Oh...the Canadian dollar is so low now that it might be cheaper than the US if you do the conversions.
 
Ahhhh..Lee Valley...we have a store in my city

Thanks for the likes and the comments, Mark and Per!
 
The black machinst's clamps are also from Lee Valley: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=68938&cat=1,43314
Oh...the Canadian dollar is so low now that it might be cheaper than the US if you do the conversions.
 
Ahhhh..Lee Valley...we have a store in my city

Limber Strakes
 
After cutting some 1.70 mm thick planks and ripping one to 3.50 wide, it was time to cut the rabbet for the limber boards. I really wanted a marking gauge that could scribe 0.95 mm and 0.75 mm widths. I contemplated building one but thought accurate measure might be tough. I then looked at my digital calipers and those nice sharp edges on the jaws and realized I had my marking gauge. I ran the caliper along the edges until I had nice, clear lines scribed. To keep the two strakes consistent, I laid out the rabbet on one long strip which I would cut to length afterwards.
 

 
These scribed lines were deep enough to run the xacto along them carefully without a straight edge.
 

 
After about a dozen passes down each line a very clean rabbet was formed.
 

 
After rough cutting this piece to length, I glued the larboard strakes into place. A 2.50 mm spacer strip helped line them up parallel to the keelson.

Thanks for the likes and the comments, Mark and Per!
 
The black machinst's clamps are also from Lee Valley: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=68938&cat=1,43314
Oh...the Canadian dollar is so low now that it might be cheaper than the US if you do the conversions.
 
Ahhhh..Lee Valley...we have a store in my city

Limber Strakes
 
After cutting some 1.70 mm thick planks and ripping one to 3.50 wide, it was time to cut the rabbet for the limber boards. I really wanted a marking gauge that could scribe 0.95 mm and 0.75 mm widths. I contemplated building one but thought accurate measure might be tough. I then looked at my digital calipers and those nice sharp edges on the jaws and realized I had my marking gauge. I ran the caliper along the edges until I had nice, clear lines scribed. To keep the two strakes consistent, I laid out the rabbet on one long strip which I would cut to length afterwards.
 

 
These scribed lines were deep enough to run the xacto along them carefully without a straight edge.
 

 
After about a dozen passes down each line a very clean rabbet was formed.
 

 
After rough cutting this piece to length, I glued the larboard strakes into place. A 2.50 mm spacer strip helped line them up parallel to the keelson.

Thank you Captainscott for those kind words.  Since this is my first build of a model ship like this it is all a big learning curve.
 
I have managed to get all the large crossbeams installed. Not all were as tight of a joint as I would have like but I am pleased with it
 

 

 
 

Laid out the joints on the beams by clamping the cross member in plase and scribing the edge with a razor knife instead of a pencil for more accurate marking, then used my chisels to remove the material
 

 

 

 
Even made a short beam for dry fitting the joints, easier to fit between the beams