Jump to content
NRG Photographic Model Ship Competition - All eligible to enter - Reduced memberhsip fee - JULY 31 ENTRY DEADLINE ×

Freebird

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    322

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Freebird

  1. Freebird
    Here’s a picture after relocating the thole pins. Just need to touch up the paint. Best Regards …. Rick
  2. Freebird
    Here’s another oops that I need to fix. One set of thole pins on the starboard side are out of position. The strap covers the forward pin, an oar wouldn’t be able to be used. So the front pin will need to be removed and placed behind the rear pin. Best Regards …. Rick
  3. Freebird
    Diver, You can use isopropyl alcohol. Just dab alcohol around the joint and let it soak in for a few minutes. It’ll soften the glue. It may take several tries. Best Regards …. Rick
  4. Freebird
    This morning I wanted to start on the shrouds, however I realized that installing the Thole pins would become problematic with the shrouds installed. So this morning became thole pin morning. I turned more than I needed and used the best from the batch. I remember in Ryland’s log that he made a little guide for consistent spacing for drilling the holes in the cap rail. It is a great idea and made for an easier task. Thanks Ryland! I also made a small guide to go over the pins to get a consistent height. It is no more than a piece of 3/16” thick ply with the pin spacing. I left the pins a little on the long side so I could clip them and then sand them flush with the top of the guide. It worked really well. Thanks to All for stopping by and all the likes, I really appreciate it! Best Regards …. Rick
  5. Freebird
    Been jumping around a little and this morning I tried my Servo-o-Matic. I served one of the shrouds and I was surprised how easy it was. One problem was that the excess line got very tangled. How do you get around this issue? Sorry, no pictures of the mess. Best Regards …. Rick
  6. Freebird
    Thank you Chuck, means a lot to me! Best Regards …. Rick
  7. Freebird
    Chuck, thank you for the info! I’ll give that a try. Does the rigging look correct so far? Winnie, yup! But first I’ll build (and start a log), Cheerful. I need to build more skills before tackling her, I have to do her justice! Best Regards …. Rick
  8. Freebird
    Finished up the boom and gaff rigging. Overall, not too bad, l’m pleased. Question though, what glue do you guys use to secure knots and seizings? I’m not happy with using CA as it darkens the tan and how it makes the rigging so hard. Any and all comments and suggestions are welcome! Best Regards …. Rick
  9. Freebird
    Thanks guys, much appreciate the encouragement! Glenn, Cheerful is next on deck and I have studied your build extensively, lots of great info in your log. And as you know, there’s a lot of other great Cheerful build logs, I can’t wait to get started! Like you, my Cheerful build is a stepping stone to to my Winnie patiently waiting. Best Regards …. Rick
  10. Freebird
    Spent a lot of time yesterday stropping 2 blocks. Not the greatest, but not to bad for first efforts. Best Regards …. Rick
  11. Freebird
    This build for me has been a journey of many firsts, and I’ve enjoyed every step of the way. I’m almost ready to start with the rigging, another path I’ve never been down. I’d like to start with stropping the blocks, and I’ve made some acceptable hooks and a couple of thimbles. Can anybody point me to a good tutorial on how to strop these blocks? As always, thanks for the likes and help! Best Regards …. Rick
  12. Freebird
    When working on a project, I like to have everything possible ready to go. So today, I made the deadeyes using Chuck’s kit. They were easy to glue together and to shape. I remember seeing a post from a MSW build log (sorry I don’t remember who’s idea it was), on how to shape the deadeyes. It worked pretty well. You need a dowel, self adhesive sandpaper, a scrap block of wood and some T-pins. I drilled some shallow indents in the wood that were a little larger in diameter than the deadeye. The deadeye is secured to the dowel using 3 pins that are pushed into the end of the dowel. The pins reside just below the surface of the deadeye. I marked one pin for the bottom hole in the deadeye so the deadeye is always positioned the same. Now place the self-adhesive sandpaper over the indent and push it into the indent. With the deadeye secured on the dowel, twist the dowel and being the sandpaper has a radius from the indent, you get a pretty good rounded deadeye. See pictures. Best Regards …. Rick
  13. Freebird
    Deconstruction, and reconstruction has been completed. Mast thwart and iron work had to be remade to accommodate the thinner diameter mast. Many Thanks Chuck for the brass, much appreciated! Best Regards …. Rick
  14. Freebird
    I also decided today to finish the rudder. I painted the red and added the friezes. One thing I know about my skills is that I can’t cut something as small as these designs without having some rough lines. While I managed to cut out some that were satisfactory, I wasn’t entirely happy with them. As I sat and looked at them, I wondered if I could gently sand the edges smooth with some new 400 wet/dry sandpaper. I found it’s possible and the result was totally worth the effort. I held the frieze right near the edge and used a very light touch so the edge wouldn’t roll over. In the pictures below, the 2 middle ones are edge sanded. When done, I used a blue pencil that matched the base color and gently ran it on the exposed white edge. Results were excellent. Amazing what a little effort can accomplish. Best Regards …. Rick
  15. Freebird
    Spent some time seeing what my options were for making the mast cutout smaller in the thwart smaller in diameter so the mast would fit better. I managed to bend some yellow cedar to fit the mast cutout but I didn’t like the way it looked. So I decided to make a new thwart with a smaller cutout. One thing I learned many years ago was to never toss out the die cut sheets the same parts came in just in case you need to make replacement parts. That sage advice served me well today. All I needed was 1/16” and 1/32” sheet to make the parts. Fortunately, Chuck provides some spare wood on his laser-cut sheets. It was a simple exercise to trace the shapes and cut out and sand to shape. Now I just need to remake the iron work again. Best Regards …. Rick
  16. Freebird
    My first deconstruction, I took too much wood off the mast and its diameter is far smaller than the mast strap. After going through options, I decided to remove the thwart and all of the straps and start over. My project for the day. Best Regards …. Rick
  17. Freebird
    Ryland, thank you for the accolades! I refer to your Medway log often, lots of great info for this newbie. Rigging is again, something I’ve never attempted, but looking forward to learning the ropes (pun intended). I’ve throughly enjoyed this build, Chuck has done an outstanding job designing and explaining how to create a beautiful model. Cheerful is on deck and then Winnie. I think I have a problem…. Best Regards …. Rick
  18. Freebird
    Finally got to spend some quality time in the shipyard today and I again did something I’ve never done before. I made the main mast, bowsprit, the boom and the gaff. I had a lot of apprehension getting started, I followed Chuck’s instructions after some very slow and thoughtful carving and turning on a small lathe, I had 3 of the 4 parts made. They actually came out pretty good. The mast was a different story as the lathe couldn’t accommodate the mast’s length. So it was time look at other logs for ideas and I found a couple that used a clamped hand drill. I have a B&D Workmate to secure the drill with the help of a few blocks of wood I had. To secure the the opposite end of the mast, I removed the tail stock from the lathe and clamped it at an angle to the end of my workbench to match the angle of the drill. The jig setup worked very well. All have a coat of WOP and need to be painted and need to make the various fittings. This model has been a lot of fun and has really built up my skills. Best Regards …. Rick
  19. Freebird
    Walrusguy, I’ve been closely following your fantastic log and applaud your talents and efforts! Quick question for ya (perhaps Chuck can chime in also). I’m a big fan of Alaskan Yellow Cedar (AYC), because of its wonderful color and workability. The question is, do you think that using thinner 1/32 thick planks instead of 1/16 thick planks is doable? Thanks for your thoughts! Best Regards …. Rick
  20. Freebird
    I know this is an order post, but…. does anyone make any replacements for the cast metal parts (mostly the figurehead) that come in the kit? I’m not crazy about the supplied items. TIA! Best Regards …. Rick
  21. Freebird
    Thanks Chuck! The hunt is on! Best Regards …. Rick
  22. Freebird
    Thank you All, for the likes! Much appreciated! Question for the group. I’m very close to starting the sticks and strings, and I want to serve the shrouds as I have Chuck’s serving machine. What size and color thread have you guys used for serving? I’ve been reading the build logs but haven’t seen much on the subject other the lines being served. Thanks for the help! Best Regards …. Rick
  23. Freebird
    As I mentioned above, I made another tiller. I think this one (one on top), looks much better. Best Regards …. Rick
  24. Freebird
    More enjoyable work has been completed. I’ve dressed the nails on the port side and applied a coat of WOP. I also made and attached the fixed block on the stem. And last but not least, the rudder has been shaped and made the tiller. I’m probably going to make another tiller as I’m not happy with this one. Best Regards …. Rick
  25. Freebird
    Got the molding glued to the port side. I soaked a few inches in hot water for several minutes, clamped it in place around the bow and dried it with a heat gun. Worked very well. Now that was completed I could finish the treenails on the port side. I’ll clean them up tomorrow and reapply a coat of WOP. Best Regards …. Rick

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...