FlyingFish

That sawing looks very accurate Keith - worthy of any jewellers (except Ratners). Speaking as someone who doesn't have a 3d printer or etching stuff, I'd say persevere - for the satisfaction alone. Maybe build up with two part metal epoxy?

Jeez Phil, thats some inner-ear thing you have going on there. Here's a test: How are are you feeling?!!!🤣

Congrats Keith - lovely job!

Just read the whole log - wonderful to have the build punctuated by your stories Phil. Enjoying it very much.

Thanks Mark; its based on the old Martin 'Orchestra Model', with sitka spruce soundboard and rosewood sides and back. Its a great project, and I'm looking forward to hearing it played. Thanks for the likes etc, especially from @Wintergreen - great to hear from you Hakan; my very best wishes to you. I am laying down a preparatory shellac bedding for french polishing the guitar, and then doing a load of sundry pre-winter jobs before getting back to the planking on Vigilance. All for now.

A great week or so working with my son on our guitar build - almost got it done, but he'll be back for another session in the new year. He lives abroad, so it's a great time to catch up, and have some time together. If you'll forgive this being off topic, here's a few pics of how we got on... It's very satisfying work, super precise (well it should be!), and that compound dovetail joint to get the neck angle precisely 9mm over the bridge has a pucker factor for sure. We have the frets and headstock to do, then finishing and setting up the action etc. I have very high regard for luthiers skill after this build! Back on Vigilance shortly, with lots to do! All for now.

It's wonderful, and even more impressive when macro-photographed like this. As I have said before - it would be tremendous if you could write a tutorial book on metalwork - meanwhile these posts serve as a standard for us all to aspire to. I still think that match is about 6" long. 🤣

I mentioned the 'go-bar' press when making the frames. I'll look out for anything that might transfer to model-making and post!

Well a bit of a spurt then, but slowed up now. Plenty of planning going on, if not much physical progress. I have started on the beams and stanchions (some of the former will need fitting before planking the 'open' version), and of course I now need to make enough planking for two boats, which will be quite a task. Also I've been thinking ahead to other jobs: layout of the interior, and just how to show the inside without butchering the vessel, researching many aspects of the working boat - boiler, rig, trawl net etc. Also I've been researching the ship's boats carried by these trawlers - with an open thread in the development and research forum for those interested. Many hours trying to recreate what they might have been like. However there will be an intermission for a few weeks as my son is coming home shortly to continue our guitar build which has so far taken 18 months. We hope to get the neck and body joined up this time. The workshop has been turned into a luthier shop, and I have been making all kinds of jigs and whatnots which take days to make but are each used for minutes it seems! All for now!

Thanks for sharing this - they may be 'available' but the skill to use them; now that's another matter! Interesting that he uses a large soldering iron - I can see the advantages to having heat stored like this - I have often thought that most 'hobby' irons are too small, or low powered.

Been away - just catching up. This is exemplary work Valeriy - I simply don't know how you do it.

Wow - giftwrapped! Bet the delivery cost is eyewatering.

Interesting subject!

Thanks for comments, likes and visits. Version 2 now framed, and stregthening blocks glued in place. I may do some more infill before planking, but it all seems pretty rigid and the distance between frames is small. A couple of 'side by side' shots to show the comparison between the building methods. The first took many months more than the second! Not far off planking now. All for now!

Very elegant solution. Enjoy the cruise.

Very nicely done Keith - especially those clean solder lines.

Nice job. Looking forward to the 'twist and shout' - I'm sure you'll 'work it on out'!

Thanks! That's right Gary: 1:32 so LOA 29".

Slow progress down the spine of Vigilance. A hairy moment when I thought the keel line was bent, but caused by the junction between the two steel alignment rods being slightly off. All sorted now. The shape midships is a cabin table (upside down) in an area that might be viewed through the skylight. Area painted dark to give impression of a wall. probably never be seen, but just in case. Started filling the space between stations with balsa - I'd forgotten how much I hate the dust off this stuff, so may limit it's use. It does however give a nice line for the planking to follow. Keel fitting next. All for now!

Indeed - it's a pretty unusual opportunity. Great learning experience to see first hand how the shipwrights do things.

I agree, Mark. Nice match for the teak. CA glue can be a help and a hindrance. I learnt a trick from a luthier when gluing purflings and rosettes on a classical guitar - he soaked the wood around the routed slots with CA accelerant spray before using CA glue on the part to be glued down - it heps prevent the seepage of CA beyond the faces being glued because the CA glue hardens as soon as it hits the kicker. It can then be scraped off the surface. Ultra thin CA is the worst culprit I find - is is super fluid, and gets deep into the wood, preventing further staining. It is useful for hardening wood structurally. I like your attention to the weathering!

Just enjoyed catching up with your restoration John. Great work!

Love all the exposed pipework Ras - looking good!

Again, thanks for following along and for your appreciation. Frame Dry Fit. (Full Build Version). Routed a board to accept the frames. I was reminded how much I dislike routing MDF – its foul stuff, but I had some to hand. The board is screwed to the building jig to keep it flat. Of course, I had to dry fit the frames to see what they looked like. Taking a lead (with thanks) from @KeithAug I also found some stainless rods from an old work photocopier I dismantled years ago to align the frames – they have come in handy several times since. Must remember to remove them before they get locked into place. I used the micromark table saw to cut the notches in each frame for the baseboard alignment slot and for the keel. The latter took some working out as I’m using a copy of the actual keel dimensions with deadwoods. In the end I took a measurement from the waterline to the top of the keel/deadwood at each station and used that to mark the notch depth. This aligns the bearding lines on the frame and keel. Also drilled a second 6mm alignment hole in the larger frames at waterline #4. I also cut out the centre of frames where floors would be added later. Also added a piece of poplar to the last frame to shape the elliptical counter. Also some adaptation was needed to accept the stern post. You can see Vigilance (I) in the background, having a rest. There is still some fiddling and finessing to get the fit spot on, but needed a break from the frames. Chasing the Rabbet! Chose to cut the rabbets before installing the keel assembly to the frames – the plans define the position and the frames define the angle. I also had one to copy! It’s also a lot easier to do flat on a table. Started by scoring the rabbet accurately on the keel. Then used chisels, a Dremel router upcut bit to set the depth where the planking runs flat to the rabet at the stem. Also used a Dremel carving bit to help shape the gradients where the rabbet is wider. The a good deal of scraping and sanding. Bottom right and below: rough checking the garboard fits the rabbet. So next step is to start assembling the frames properly into the keel with spacers and fillers and fairing. Time for a new dust mask. All for now!

Splendid! Although I notice he's stopped saluting you...