DocBlake

The subdeck is difficult to fit because of the bulwark tumblehome at the bow and the stern.  I’ll make it in two pieces.  I blocked in the space between bulkheads #6 and  #7 to provide a gluing surface for the edges of the two pieces.  I then made the stringers and glued them in the rabbets.  When dry, I trimmed them and sanded the whole framework top.  Next is to install the subdeck.   
 
You can see the bearding line drawn in on the middle photo.
 
 
 

The subdeck is difficult to fit because of the bulwark tumblehome at the bow and the stern.  I’ll make it in two pieces.  I blocked in the space between bulkheads #6 and  #7 to provide a gluing surface for the edges of the two pieces.  I then made the stringers and glued them in the rabbets.  When dry, I trimmed them and sanded the whole framework top.  Next is to install the subdeck.   
 
You can see the bearding line drawn in on the middle photo.
 
 
 

The subdeck is difficult to fit because of the bulwark tumblehome at the bow and the stern.  I’ll make it in two pieces.  I blocked in the space between bulkheads #6 and  #7 to provide a gluing surface for the edges of the two pieces.  I then made the stringers and glued them in the rabbets.  When dry, I trimmed them and sanded the whole framework top.  Next is to install the subdeck.   
 
You can see the bearding line drawn in on the middle photo.
 
 
 

The subdeck is difficult to fit because of the bulwark tumblehome at the bow and the stern.  I’ll make it in two pieces.  I blocked in the space between bulkheads #6 and  #7 to provide a gluing surface for the edges of the two pieces.  I then made the stringers and glued them in the rabbets.  When dry, I trimmed them and sanded the whole framework top.  Next is to install the subdeck.   
 
You can see the bearding line drawn in on the middle photo.
 
 
 

The subdeck is difficult to fit because of the bulwark tumblehome at the bow and the stern.  I’ll make it in two pieces.  I blocked in the space between bulkheads #6 and  #7 to provide a gluing surface for the edges of the two pieces.  I then made the stringers and glued them in the rabbets.  When dry, I trimmed them and sanded the whole framework top.  Next is to install the subdeck.   
 
You can see the bearding line drawn in on the middle photo.
 
 
 

Thanks, Pat.
 
After drawing in a bearding line and the rabbet, I tapered the lower edge of the false keel to proper size and glued the frame together.   
 
 
 

Thanks, Pat.
 
After drawing in a bearding line and the rabbet, I tapered the lower edge of the false keel to proper size and glued the frame together.   
 
 
 

Thanks, Pat.
 
After drawing in a bearding line and the rabbet, I tapered the lower edge of the false keel to proper size and glued the frame together.   
 
 
 

Thanks, Pat.
 
After drawing in a bearding line and the rabbet, I tapered the lower edge of the false keel to proper size and glued the frame together.   
 
 
 

The bulwark extensions on the bulkheads would be harder to fair if made of plywood, but if basswood were used, they would be very fragile and likely to break. I solved the problem by making up a blank for each bulkhead. These were two 1/8" thick squares of basswood glued togther. I glued them so the grain of each was at 90 degrees from the other. This prevented breakage of the bulwark extensions. I also ploughed dadoes into each bulkhead so I could fit basswood stringers to stiffen the frame. Easier than blocking each frame. The final bulkheads are ¼” thick.  You can see the two layers in the second photo.  The third photo shows the layout of the profile former before cutting and the last photo is of all the bulkheads ready to be glued up! 
 
Note the tumblehome of the fore and aft bulkhead extensions.  That may be a problem a little later! 
 
 
 

 

Chapman Hoy Scratch Build 1:48 scale


This will be my log for a 1:48 scale (actually 1:50 scale as all the plans are metric) scratch build of a Chapman Water Hoy. A hoy is a small vessel, designed to move cargo and supplies to and from ships and the shore. These included provisions, munitions, fresh water etc. Hoys were sloop-rigged, with a mainsail on a gaff, but loose-footed (no boom). Fifty tons burthen was typical for size. This hoy had a large beam and draft for her length to maximize carrying capacity. The Chapman Water Hoy was designed by Fredrik Henrik af Chapman, a Swedish ship designer in 1768. This is an odd little ship but very interesting and with a simple rig. She was built for a life of hard work. The photos show three drawings of the vessel and a model photo i found on the internet.

Another reason I chose her to build is to spare the world another "Victory" or "Syren" build log! LOL!!
 
 
 

Thanks, Pat.
 
After drawing in a bearding line and the rabbet, I tapered the lower edge of the false keel to proper size and glued the frame together.   
 
 
 

Thanks, Pat.
 
After drawing in a bearding line and the rabbet, I tapered the lower edge of the false keel to proper size and glued the frame together.   
 
 
 

Thanks, Pat.
 
After drawing in a bearding line and the rabbet, I tapered the lower edge of the false keel to proper size and glued the frame together.   
 
 
 

I happened to have a copy of the March, 1993 issue of Model Boats magazine which had an article by Peter Danks about building this small coasting vessel. It included a full set of plans, which I had digitized so I could copy selected parts of the plans as needed. The model is about 13” long without the sprit, so enlarging the plans to 1:32 results in a model that is still reasonable for the average house! I abandoned my usual preference for larger scales and decided to build at 1:48 for a change of pace!

The construction technique in the original plans was weird. It employed a strange jig that was INSIDE the model, and the model was built upside down, with extensions glued to the jig like a Hahn style POF. The model was then cut from the jig after planking the exterior. I decided to go a different way. I converted the skeleton to a typical POB model, with a central false keel and bulkheads. This was challenging because the plans don’t include a water line or bearding line and the station lines, which form the basis of the bulkhead, are poorly drawn.

I made up foam board mockups of the bulkheads and false keel before I made the final versions in basswood. The first photo (on page 2 of Danks’ article) shows the odd construction plans and the weird up-side-down inside out jig. There is even (un-necessary) deadwood! The second photo shows the profile and the station lines which I used to draw the false keel and plan the bulkhead locations. The third photo shows the sheer line of the deck drawn in, which defines the top of the false keel as well as the slots for locating the bulkheads.
 
 
 

The bulwark extensions on the bulkheads would be harder to fair if made of plywood, but if basswood were used, they would be very fragile and likely to break. I solved the problem by making up a blank for each bulkhead. These were two 1/8" thick squares of basswood glued togther. I glued them so the grain of each was at 90 degrees from the other. This prevented breakage of the bulwark extensions. I also ploughed dadoes into each bulkhead so I could fit basswood stringers to stiffen the frame. Easier than blocking each frame. The final bulkheads are ¼” thick.  You can see the two layers in the second photo.  The third photo shows the layout of the profile former before cutting and the last photo is of all the bulkheads ready to be glued up! 
 
Note the tumblehome of the fore and aft bulkhead extensions.  That may be a problem a little later! 
 
 
 

 

Thanks, Pat.
 
After drawing in a bearding line and the rabbet, I tapered the lower edge of the false keel to proper size and glued the frame together.   
 
 
 

Thanks, Pat.
 
After drawing in a bearding line and the rabbet, I tapered the lower edge of the false keel to proper size and glued the frame together.   
 
 
 

Chapman Hoy Scratch Build 1:48 scale


This will be my log for a 1:48 scale (actually 1:50 scale as all the plans are metric) scratch build of a Chapman Water Hoy. A hoy is a small vessel, designed to move cargo and supplies to and from ships and the shore. These included provisions, munitions, fresh water etc. Hoys were sloop-rigged, with a mainsail on a gaff, but loose-footed (no boom). Fifty tons burthen was typical for size. This hoy had a large beam and draft for her length to maximize carrying capacity. The Chapman Water Hoy was designed by Fredrik Henrik af Chapman, a Swedish ship designer in 1768. This is an odd little ship but very interesting and with a simple rig. She was built for a life of hard work. The photos show three drawings of the vessel and a model photo i found on the internet.

Another reason I chose her to build is to spare the world another "Victory" or "Syren" build log! LOL!!
 
 
 

Thanks, Pat.
 
After drawing in a bearding line and the rabbet, I tapered the lower edge of the false keel to proper size and glued the frame together.   
 
 
 

The bulwark extensions on the bulkheads would be harder to fair if made of plywood, but if basswood were used, they would be very fragile and likely to break. I solved the problem by making up a blank for each bulkhead. These were two 1/8" thick squares of basswood glued togther. I glued them so the grain of each was at 90 degrees from the other. This prevented breakage of the bulwark extensions. I also ploughed dadoes into each bulkhead so I could fit basswood stringers to stiffen the frame. Easier than blocking each frame. The final bulkheads are ¼” thick.  You can see the two layers in the second photo.  The third photo shows the layout of the profile former before cutting and the last photo is of all the bulkheads ready to be glued up! 
 
Note the tumblehome of the fore and aft bulkhead extensions.  That may be a problem a little later! 
 
 
 

 

I happened to have a copy of the March, 1993 issue of Model Boats magazine which had an article by Peter Danks about building this small coasting vessel. It included a full set of plans, which I had digitized so I could copy selected parts of the plans as needed. The model is about 13” long without the sprit, so enlarging the plans to 1:32 results in a model that is still reasonable for the average house! I abandoned my usual preference for larger scales and decided to build at 1:48 for a change of pace!

The construction technique in the original plans was weird. It employed a strange jig that was INSIDE the model, and the model was built upside down, with extensions glued to the jig like a Hahn style POF. The model was then cut from the jig after planking the exterior. I decided to go a different way. I converted the skeleton to a typical POB model, with a central false keel and bulkheads. This was challenging because the plans don’t include a water line or bearding line and the station lines, which form the basis of the bulkhead, are poorly drawn.

I made up foam board mockups of the bulkheads and false keel before I made the final versions in basswood. The first photo (on page 2 of Danks’ article) shows the odd construction plans and the weird up-side-down inside out jig. There is even (un-necessary) deadwood! The second photo shows the profile and the station lines which I used to draw the false keel and plan the bulkhead locations. The third photo shows the sheer line of the deck drawn in, which defines the top of the false keel as well as the slots for locating the bulkheads.
 
 
 

Thanks for your interest, guys!
 
There are a lot of real challenges involved in building this little ship…not the least of which is the extended hatch to the cargo hold.  The framing for than long hatch curves across the beam to match the deck camber, but also fore and aft to match the deck sheer.  I plan to also change the wooden slats which cover the hatch opening from flat to curved.  Lots of solid geometry to contend with.  I suspect that part of the build may take a month to complete, with multiple trial and error attempts.  Challenging and fun!

Chapman Hoy Scratch Build 1:48 scale


This will be my log for a 1:48 scale (actually 1:50 scale as all the plans are metric) scratch build of a Chapman Water Hoy. A hoy is a small vessel, designed to move cargo and supplies to and from ships and the shore. These included provisions, munitions, fresh water etc. Hoys were sloop-rigged, with a mainsail on a gaff, but loose-footed (no boom). Fifty tons burthen was typical for size. This hoy had a large beam and draft for her length to maximize carrying capacity. The Chapman Water Hoy was designed by Fredrik Henrik af Chapman, a Swedish ship designer in 1768. This is an odd little ship but very interesting and with a simple rig. She was built for a life of hard work. The photos show three drawings of the vessel and a model photo i found on the internet.

Another reason I chose her to build is to spare the world another "Victory" or "Syren" build log! LOL!!
 
 
 

Thanks, Pat and everyone for the "likes!
 
I finished up the mortar bed.  It was a complex little build that took several days, but was a fun project on it's own. The varying thicknesses of wood that needed to be milled and when stacked on each other so the top of the bed was flat called for a lot of precision and caused lots of heartburn!  But..it's done!
Mortar beds were originally stationary on deck, so to aim, the ship needed to move such that the mortar lined up with it's target.  Not very practical.  The solution was to put the bed on a revolving "lazy susan" that sits in the recess in the mortar pit.  The rotation was around an iron spindle, shown in the photos as a 5/32" brass rod. This allowed greater ease of aiming, but made it necessary to pay attention so one didn't shoot the masts, yards and rigging of one's own ship!  
When not in use, the mortar was lowered into the horizontal position resting on the transom of the bed, and the entire bed was rotated so the mortar was aligned with the long axis of the ship.  Because of the wear and tear the mortar barrel would cause resting on the top of the transom, I added a sacrificial transom board to the top that could be replaced if needed.  Sort of like billboards for the anchors.  The red arrow points this out.
The mortar is 3D printed.  I'll be using a cast mortar for the model.
Next up is the mortar housing.