DocBlake

The bulwark extensions on the bulkheads would be harder to fair if made of plywood, but if basswood were used, they would be very fragile and likely to break. I solved the problem by making up a blank for each bulkhead. These were two 1/8" thick squares of basswood glued togther. I glued them so the grain of each was at 90 degrees from the other. This prevented breakage of the bulwark extensions. I also ploughed dadoes into each bulkhead so I could fit basswood stringers to stiffen the frame. Easier than blocking each frame. The final bulkheads are ¼” thick.  You can see the two layers in the second photo.  The third photo shows the layout of the profile former before cutting and the last photo is of all the bulkheads ready to be glued up! 
 
Note the tumblehome of the fore and aft bulkhead extensions.  That may be a problem a little later! 
 
 
 

 

The bulwark extensions on the bulkheads would be harder to fair if made of plywood, but if basswood were used, they would be very fragile and likely to break. I solved the problem by making up a blank for each bulkhead. These were two 1/8" thick squares of basswood glued togther. I glued them so the grain of each was at 90 degrees from the other. This prevented breakage of the bulwark extensions. I also ploughed dadoes into each bulkhead so I could fit basswood stringers to stiffen the frame. Easier than blocking each frame. The final bulkheads are ¼” thick.  You can see the two layers in the second photo.  The third photo shows the layout of the profile former before cutting and the last photo is of all the bulkheads ready to be glued up! 
 
Note the tumblehome of the fore and aft bulkhead extensions.  That may be a problem a little later! 
 
 
 

 

The bulwark extensions on the bulkheads would be harder to fair if made of plywood, but if basswood were used, they would be very fragile and likely to break. I solved the problem by making up a blank for each bulkhead. These were two 1/8" thick squares of basswood glued togther. I glued them so the grain of each was at 90 degrees from the other. This prevented breakage of the bulwark extensions. I also ploughed dadoes into each bulkhead so I could fit basswood stringers to stiffen the frame. Easier than blocking each frame. The final bulkheads are ¼” thick.  You can see the two layers in the second photo.  The third photo shows the layout of the profile former before cutting and the last photo is of all the bulkheads ready to be glued up! 
 
Note the tumblehome of the fore and aft bulkhead extensions.  That may be a problem a little later! 
 
 
 

 

I have been spending some time building the removable pit housing for the mortar pit.  This was a removable structure that protected the mortar from the weather when not in use and also provided protected storage space.  As I worked, I realized that the housing would obscure too much detail on the mortar and bed, so I decided to stop construction and move on to something else.
The boarding steps in Jeff Staudt's plans are cut from a single piece of wood, and I didn't really care much for the design, so I used my own design!
The treads are 3/64" thick boxwood and the risers are 7/64" boxwood.  The ends of the risers are cut at a 60 degree angle and the tread overhangs the riser on three sides.  Rather than try to glue the treads to the risers and get the overhangs perfect, I left the treads oversized when I glued up each step.  I then marked them to the proper length and "cut" them to size using the disk sander.  Rounding the tread corners finished the job.  There are 5 steps per side.

The bulwark extensions on the bulkheads would be harder to fair if made of plywood, but if basswood were used, they would be very fragile and likely to break. I solved the problem by making up a blank for each bulkhead. These were two 1/8" thick squares of basswood glued togther. I glued them so the grain of each was at 90 degrees from the other. This prevented breakage of the bulwark extensions. I also ploughed dadoes into each bulkhead so I could fit basswood stringers to stiffen the frame. Easier than blocking each frame. The final bulkheads are ¼” thick.  You can see the two layers in the second photo.  The third photo shows the layout of the profile former before cutting and the last photo is of all the bulkheads ready to be glued up! 
 
Note the tumblehome of the fore and aft bulkhead extensions.  That may be a problem a little later! 
 
 
 

 

The bulwark extensions on the bulkheads would be harder to fair if made of plywood, but if basswood were used, they would be very fragile and likely to break. I solved the problem by making up a blank for each bulkhead. These were two 1/8" thick squares of basswood glued togther. I glued them so the grain of each was at 90 degrees from the other. This prevented breakage of the bulwark extensions. I also ploughed dadoes into each bulkhead so I could fit basswood stringers to stiffen the frame. Easier than blocking each frame. The final bulkheads are ¼” thick.  You can see the two layers in the second photo.  The third photo shows the layout of the profile former before cutting and the last photo is of all the bulkheads ready to be glued up! 
 
Note the tumblehome of the fore and aft bulkhead extensions.  That may be a problem a little later! 
 
 
 

 

I happened to have a copy of the March, 1993 issue of Model Boats magazine which had an article by Peter Danks about building this small coasting vessel. It included a full set of plans, which I had digitized so I could copy selected parts of the plans as needed. The model is about 13” long without the sprit, so enlarging the plans to 1:32 results in a model that is still reasonable for the average house! I abandoned my usual preference for larger scales and decided to build at 1:48 for a change of pace!

The construction technique in the original plans was weird. It employed a strange jig that was INSIDE the model, and the model was built upside down, with extensions glued to the jig like a Hahn style POF. The model was then cut from the jig after planking the exterior. I decided to go a different way. I converted the skeleton to a typical POB model, with a central false keel and bulkheads. This was challenging because the plans don’t include a water line or bearding line and the station lines, which form the basis of the bulkhead, are poorly drawn.

I made up foam board mockups of the bulkheads and false keel before I made the final versions in basswood. The first photo (on page 2 of Danks’ article) shows the odd construction plans and the weird up-side-down inside out jig. There is even (un-necessary) deadwood! The second photo shows the profile and the station lines which I used to draw the false keel and plan the bulkhead locations. The third photo shows the sheer line of the deck drawn in, which defines the top of the false keel as well as the slots for locating the bulkheads.
 
 
 

The bulwark extensions on the bulkheads would be harder to fair if made of plywood, but if basswood were used, they would be very fragile and likely to break. I solved the problem by making up a blank for each bulkhead. These were two 1/8" thick squares of basswood glued togther. I glued them so the grain of each was at 90 degrees from the other. This prevented breakage of the bulwark extensions. I also ploughed dadoes into each bulkhead so I could fit basswood stringers to stiffen the frame. Easier than blocking each frame. The final bulkheads are ¼” thick.  You can see the two layers in the second photo.  The third photo shows the layout of the profile former before cutting and the last photo is of all the bulkheads ready to be glued up! 
 
Note the tumblehome of the fore and aft bulkhead extensions.  That may be a problem a little later! 
 
 
 

 

The bulwark extensions on the bulkheads would be harder to fair if made of plywood, but if basswood were used, they would be very fragile and likely to break. I solved the problem by making up a blank for each bulkhead. These were two 1/8" thick squares of basswood glued togther. I glued them so the grain of each was at 90 degrees from the other. This prevented breakage of the bulwark extensions. I also ploughed dadoes into each bulkhead so I could fit basswood stringers to stiffen the frame. Easier than blocking each frame. The final bulkheads are ¼” thick.  You can see the two layers in the second photo.  The third photo shows the layout of the profile former before cutting and the last photo is of all the bulkheads ready to be glued up! 
 
Note the tumblehome of the fore and aft bulkhead extensions.  That may be a problem a little later! 
 
 
 

 

I happened to have a copy of the March, 1993 issue of Model Boats magazine which had an article by Peter Danks about building this small coasting vessel. It included a full set of plans, which I had digitized so I could copy selected parts of the plans as needed. The model is about 13” long without the sprit, so enlarging the plans to 1:32 results in a model that is still reasonable for the average house! I abandoned my usual preference for larger scales and decided to build at 1:48 for a change of pace!

The construction technique in the original plans was weird. It employed a strange jig that was INSIDE the model, and the model was built upside down, with extensions glued to the jig like a Hahn style POF. The model was then cut from the jig after planking the exterior. I decided to go a different way. I converted the skeleton to a typical POB model, with a central false keel and bulkheads. This was challenging because the plans don’t include a water line or bearding line and the station lines, which form the basis of the bulkhead, are poorly drawn.

I made up foam board mockups of the bulkheads and false keel before I made the final versions in basswood. The first photo (on page 2 of Danks’ article) shows the odd construction plans and the weird up-side-down inside out jig. There is even (un-necessary) deadwood! The second photo shows the profile and the station lines which I used to draw the false keel and plan the bulkhead locations. The third photo shows the sheer line of the deck drawn in, which defines the top of the false keel as well as the slots for locating the bulkheads.
 
 
 

The bulwark extensions on the bulkheads would be harder to fair if made of plywood, but if basswood were used, they would be very fragile and likely to break. I solved the problem by making up a blank for each bulkhead. These were two 1/8" thick squares of basswood glued togther. I glued them so the grain of each was at 90 degrees from the other. This prevented breakage of the bulwark extensions. I also ploughed dadoes into each bulkhead so I could fit basswood stringers to stiffen the frame. Easier than blocking each frame. The final bulkheads are ¼” thick.  You can see the two layers in the second photo.  The third photo shows the layout of the profile former before cutting and the last photo is of all the bulkheads ready to be glued up! 
 
Note the tumblehome of the fore and aft bulkhead extensions.  That may be a problem a little later! 
 
 
 

 

The bulwark extensions on the bulkheads would be harder to fair if made of plywood, but if basswood were used, they would be very fragile and likely to break. I solved the problem by making up a blank for each bulkhead. These were two 1/8" thick squares of basswood glued togther. I glued them so the grain of each was at 90 degrees from the other. This prevented breakage of the bulwark extensions. I also ploughed dadoes into each bulkhead so I could fit basswood stringers to stiffen the frame. Easier than blocking each frame. The final bulkheads are ¼” thick.  You can see the two layers in the second photo.  The third photo shows the layout of the profile former before cutting and the last photo is of all the bulkheads ready to be glued up! 
 
Note the tumblehome of the fore and aft bulkhead extensions.  That may be a problem a little later! 
 
 
 

 

I happened to have a copy of the March, 1993 issue of Model Boats magazine which had an article by Peter Danks about building this small coasting vessel. It included a full set of plans, which I had digitized so I could copy selected parts of the plans as needed. The model is about 13” long without the sprit, so enlarging the plans to 1:32 results in a model that is still reasonable for the average house! I abandoned my usual preference for larger scales and decided to build at 1:48 for a change of pace!

The construction technique in the original plans was weird. It employed a strange jig that was INSIDE the model, and the model was built upside down, with extensions glued to the jig like a Hahn style POF. The model was then cut from the jig after planking the exterior. I decided to go a different way. I converted the skeleton to a typical POB model, with a central false keel and bulkheads. This was challenging because the plans don’t include a water line or bearding line and the station lines, which form the basis of the bulkhead, are poorly drawn.

I made up foam board mockups of the bulkheads and false keel before I made the final versions in basswood. The first photo (on page 2 of Danks’ article) shows the odd construction plans and the weird up-side-down inside out jig. There is even (un-necessary) deadwood! The second photo shows the profile and the station lines which I used to draw the false keel and plan the bulkhead locations. The third photo shows the sheer line of the deck drawn in, which defines the top of the false keel as well as the slots for locating the bulkheads.
 
 
 

Thanks for your interest, guys!
 
There are a lot of real challenges involved in building this little ship…not the least of which is the extended hatch to the cargo hold.  The framing for than long hatch curves across the beam to match the deck camber, but also fore and aft to match the deck sheer.  I plan to also change the wooden slats which cover the hatch opening from flat to curved.  Lots of solid geometry to contend with.  I suspect that part of the build may take a month to complete, with multiple trial and error attempts.  Challenging and fun!

I happened to have a copy of the March, 1993 issue of Model Boats magazine which had an article by Peter Danks about building this small coasting vessel. It included a full set of plans, which I had digitized so I could copy selected parts of the plans as needed. The model is about 13” long without the sprit, so enlarging the plans to 1:32 results in a model that is still reasonable for the average house! I abandoned my usual preference for larger scales and decided to build at 1:48 for a change of pace!

The construction technique in the original plans was weird. It employed a strange jig that was INSIDE the model, and the model was built upside down, with extensions glued to the jig like a Hahn style POF. The model was then cut from the jig after planking the exterior. I decided to go a different way. I converted the skeleton to a typical POB model, with a central false keel and bulkheads. This was challenging because the plans don’t include a water line or bearding line and the station lines, which form the basis of the bulkhead, are poorly drawn.

I made up foam board mockups of the bulkheads and false keel before I made the final versions in basswood. The first photo (on page 2 of Danks’ article) shows the odd construction plans and the weird up-side-down inside out jig. There is even (un-necessary) deadwood! The second photo shows the profile and the station lines which I used to draw the false keel and plan the bulkhead locations. The third photo shows the sheer line of the deck drawn in, which defines the top of the false keel as well as the slots for locating the bulkheads.
 
 
 

I happened to have a copy of the March, 1993 issue of Model Boats magazine which had an article by Peter Danks about building this small coasting vessel. It included a full set of plans, which I had digitized so I could copy selected parts of the plans as needed. The model is about 13” long without the sprit, so enlarging the plans to 1:32 results in a model that is still reasonable for the average house! I abandoned my usual preference for larger scales and decided to build at 1:48 for a change of pace!

The construction technique in the original plans was weird. It employed a strange jig that was INSIDE the model, and the model was built upside down, with extensions glued to the jig like a Hahn style POF. The model was then cut from the jig after planking the exterior. I decided to go a different way. I converted the skeleton to a typical POB model, with a central false keel and bulkheads. This was challenging because the plans don’t include a water line or bearding line and the station lines, which form the basis of the bulkhead, are poorly drawn.

I made up foam board mockups of the bulkheads and false keel before I made the final versions in basswood. The first photo (on page 2 of Danks’ article) shows the odd construction plans and the weird up-side-down inside out jig. There is even (un-necessary) deadwood! The second photo shows the profile and the station lines which I used to draw the false keel and plan the bulkhead locations. The third photo shows the sheer line of the deck drawn in, which defines the top of the false keel as well as the slots for locating the bulkheads.
 
 
 

Thanks for your interest, guys!
 
There are a lot of real challenges involved in building this little ship…not the least of which is the extended hatch to the cargo hold.  The framing for than long hatch curves across the beam to match the deck camber, but also fore and aft to match the deck sheer.  I plan to also change the wooden slats which cover the hatch opening from flat to curved.  Lots of solid geometry to contend with.  I suspect that part of the build may take a month to complete, with multiple trial and error attempts.  Challenging and fun!

I happened to have a copy of the March, 1993 issue of Model Boats magazine which had an article by Peter Danks about building this small coasting vessel. It included a full set of plans, which I had digitized so I could copy selected parts of the plans as needed. The model is about 13” long without the sprit, so enlarging the plans to 1:32 results in a model that is still reasonable for the average house! I abandoned my usual preference for larger scales and decided to build at 1:48 for a change of pace!

The construction technique in the original plans was weird. It employed a strange jig that was INSIDE the model, and the model was built upside down, with extensions glued to the jig like a Hahn style POF. The model was then cut from the jig after planking the exterior. I decided to go a different way. I converted the skeleton to a typical POB model, with a central false keel and bulkheads. This was challenging because the plans don’t include a water line or bearding line and the station lines, which form the basis of the bulkhead, are poorly drawn.

I made up foam board mockups of the bulkheads and false keel before I made the final versions in basswood. The first photo (on page 2 of Danks’ article) shows the odd construction plans and the weird up-side-down inside out jig. There is even (un-necessary) deadwood! The second photo shows the profile and the station lines which I used to draw the false keel and plan the bulkhead locations. The third photo shows the sheer line of the deck drawn in, which defines the top of the false keel as well as the slots for locating the bulkheads.
 
 
 

Thanks for your interest, guys!
 
There are a lot of real challenges involved in building this little ship…not the least of which is the extended hatch to the cargo hold.  The framing for than long hatch curves across the beam to match the deck camber, but also fore and aft to match the deck sheer.  I plan to also change the wooden slats which cover the hatch opening from flat to curved.  Lots of solid geometry to contend with.  I suspect that part of the build may take a month to complete, with multiple trial and error attempts.  Challenging and fun!

Chapman Hoy Scratch Build 1:48 scale


This will be my log for a 1:48 scale (actually 1:50 scale as all the plans are metric) scratch build of a Chapman Water Hoy. A hoy is a small vessel, designed to move cargo and supplies to and from ships and the shore. These included provisions, munitions, fresh water etc. Hoys were sloop-rigged, with a mainsail on a gaff, but loose-footed (no boom). Fifty tons burthen was typical for size. This hoy had a large beam and draft for her length to maximize carrying capacity. The Chapman Water Hoy was designed by Fredrik Henrik af Chapman, a Swedish ship designer in 1768. This is an odd little ship but very interesting and with a simple rig. She was built for a life of hard work. The photos show three drawings of the vessel and a model photo i found on the internet.

Another reason I chose her to build is to spare the world another "Victory" or "Syren" build log! LOL!!
 
 
 

Chapman Hoy Scratch Build 1:48 scale


This will be my log for a 1:48 scale (actually 1:50 scale as all the plans are metric) scratch build of a Chapman Water Hoy. A hoy is a small vessel, designed to move cargo and supplies to and from ships and the shore. These included provisions, munitions, fresh water etc. Hoys were sloop-rigged, with a mainsail on a gaff, but loose-footed (no boom). Fifty tons burthen was typical for size. This hoy had a large beam and draft for her length to maximize carrying capacity. The Chapman Water Hoy was designed by Fredrik Henrik af Chapman, a Swedish ship designer in 1768. This is an odd little ship but very interesting and with a simple rig. She was built for a life of hard work. The photos show three drawings of the vessel and a model photo i found on the internet.

Another reason I chose her to build is to spare the world another "Victory" or "Syren" build log! LOL!!
 
 
 

I happened to have a copy of the March, 1993 issue of Model Boats magazine which had an article by Peter Danks about building this small coasting vessel. It included a full set of plans, which I had digitized so I could copy selected parts of the plans as needed. The model is about 13” long without the sprit, so enlarging the plans to 1:32 results in a model that is still reasonable for the average house! I abandoned my usual preference for larger scales and decided to build at 1:48 for a change of pace!

The construction technique in the original plans was weird. It employed a strange jig that was INSIDE the model, and the model was built upside down, with extensions glued to the jig like a Hahn style POF. The model was then cut from the jig after planking the exterior. I decided to go a different way. I converted the skeleton to a typical POB model, with a central false keel and bulkheads. This was challenging because the plans don’t include a water line or bearding line and the station lines, which form the basis of the bulkhead, are poorly drawn.

I made up foam board mockups of the bulkheads and false keel before I made the final versions in basswood. The first photo (on page 2 of Danks’ article) shows the odd construction plans and the weird up-side-down inside out jig. There is even (un-necessary) deadwood! The second photo shows the profile and the station lines which I used to draw the false keel and plan the bulkhead locations. The third photo shows the sheer line of the deck drawn in, which defines the top of the false keel as well as the slots for locating the bulkheads.
 
 
 

Chapman Hoy Scratch Build 1:48 scale


This will be my log for a 1:48 scale (actually 1:50 scale as all the plans are metric) scratch build of a Chapman Water Hoy. A hoy is a small vessel, designed to move cargo and supplies to and from ships and the shore. These included provisions, munitions, fresh water etc. Hoys were sloop-rigged, with a mainsail on a gaff, but loose-footed (no boom). Fifty tons burthen was typical for size. This hoy had a large beam and draft for her length to maximize carrying capacity. The Chapman Water Hoy was designed by Fredrik Henrik af Chapman, a Swedish ship designer in 1768. This is an odd little ship but very interesting and with a simple rig. She was built for a life of hard work. The photos show three drawings of the vessel and a model photo i found on the internet.

Another reason I chose her to build is to spare the world another "Victory" or "Syren" build log! LOL!!
 
 
 

Chapman Hoy Scratch Build 1:48 scale


This will be my log for a 1:48 scale (actually 1:50 scale as all the plans are metric) scratch build of a Chapman Water Hoy. A hoy is a small vessel, designed to move cargo and supplies to and from ships and the shore. These included provisions, munitions, fresh water etc. Hoys were sloop-rigged, with a mainsail on a gaff, but loose-footed (no boom). Fifty tons burthen was typical for size. This hoy had a large beam and draft for her length to maximize carrying capacity. The Chapman Water Hoy was designed by Fredrik Henrik af Chapman, a Swedish ship designer in 1768. This is an odd little ship but very interesting and with a simple rig. She was built for a life of hard work. The photos show three drawings of the vessel and a model photo i found on the internet.

Another reason I chose her to build is to spare the world another "Victory" or "Syren" build log! LOL!!
 
 
 

I happened to have a copy of the March, 1993 issue of Model Boats magazine which had an article by Peter Danks about building this small coasting vessel. It included a full set of plans, which I had digitized so I could copy selected parts of the plans as needed. The model is about 13” long without the sprit, so enlarging the plans to 1:32 results in a model that is still reasonable for the average house! I abandoned my usual preference for larger scales and decided to build at 1:48 for a change of pace!

The construction technique in the original plans was weird. It employed a strange jig that was INSIDE the model, and the model was built upside down, with extensions glued to the jig like a Hahn style POF. The model was then cut from the jig after planking the exterior. I decided to go a different way. I converted the skeleton to a typical POB model, with a central false keel and bulkheads. This was challenging because the plans don’t include a water line or bearding line and the station lines, which form the basis of the bulkhead, are poorly drawn.

I made up foam board mockups of the bulkheads and false keel before I made the final versions in basswood. The first photo (on page 2 of Danks’ article) shows the odd construction plans and the weird up-side-down inside out jig. There is even (un-necessary) deadwood! The second photo shows the profile and the station lines which I used to draw the false keel and plan the bulkhead locations. The third photo shows the sheer line of the deck drawn in, which defines the top of the false keel as well as the slots for locating the bulkheads.