Gregory
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Everything posted by Gregory
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They are definitely different items. The waterway acts as a sort of gutter to help keep water from running between the bulwarks/deck and the framing. It is often modeled as some sort of molding like you might see between a wall and a floor. The waterways seen here look somewhat like the molding that is often modeled. The margin plank in practice, butts up against the waterway. I borrowed the images from a post by Allan in another topic.
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What glue to use
Gregory replied to David Enghauser's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I will say I do a lot of dry fitting before use the CA. -
What glue to use
Gregory replied to David Enghauser's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Another good resource is to look at logs for the NRG Half Hull Planking Project .. A lot of good tips on planking done right. -
What glue to use
Gregory replied to David Enghauser's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
That is pretty much it. The bending will take place in two directions as it also has bend some latterly as well a vertically. Imagine a piece of tape on the surface of a sphere. -
What glue to use
Gregory replied to David Enghauser's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
The tick marks are based on the width of the planks at a particular bulkhead and enable you to determine the taper of the planks. Typically the most full size planks would be found in the middle of the ship. ( amidship ) Imagine this is your middle bulkhead. I have marked the 5mm width of the planks ( not scaled ) and determined there are 20, with the bottom plank ( garboard ) being a little wider. That will have to be accounted for later. At the bow of the ship you will have a much smaller space to fill. Lets say the space for those 20 planks is only 70mm at the bulkhead closest to the stem. You would divide 70 by 20 to give you 3.5mm. So, your planks would have to taper from 5mm amidship to 3.5mm at the bow. Your tick marks at the bow would be 3.5mm apart. So, using some sort of tape, you would establish the width of the planks across the intervening bulkheads. You would duplicate the process from midship to stern. You might find at the stern you need more than 20 planks, in which case you would need wider planking stock, which is usually not provided in a kit, so you would have to introduce stealers, which might be better left for another discussion. I will try to find you some examples of people lining off the bulkheads with tick marks. Hopefully this will give you some information for starting the process.
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What glue to use
Gregory replied to David Enghauser's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
While there are different preferences based on experience there are some excellent examples of people using CA here. A couple of my favorites are Glenn Barlow's Cheerful and Winchelsea. Chuck Passaro who has been very helpful with his planking tutorials, uses CA. Chuck is also a master model builder and designer. After following Glenn and Chuck for some time, CA has become my preferred planking glue. It takes some practice and care, but once you are comfortable with it, nothing beats it for speed, and all the clamps and clamping gizmos that go along with PVA are not necessary. CA has it's detractors for one reason or another, but it is very effective when used correctly. -
I believe this has beem referred to as a fashion piece on Cheerful.
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I think the figurehead should sit further back with the stem protruding between the legs. Something like you see on Winchelsea Here's one of Amazon.
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Size looks good. Have you thought about making the horn as a separate piece? Maybe from wood.
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If you print them yourself you will be dealing with a dark outline of some sort no matter what, as well as something that will be very difficult to trim and match your back-ground color. If it's black you may be able to get a good match. How big are the letters? Here is a possible solution. Letter Number Decals for different scales Model Kits White/Black
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Tiny "precision" drill press
Gregory replied to Ron Burns's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I don't think there would be any practical way to determine torque for these mini tools. It becomes a matter of sharing personal experience as to quality of performance. -
A little late to the party, but you also might look into a product called Rub'nBuff They do not have one called ' bronze ' but they have several shades of gold and one called Spanish copper that might be a good candidate. I have used it for good effect over a black base coat.
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Big improvement over the original. I would check the size against the plans and scale it accordingly. It is definitely a bit 'wee' compared to the original.
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This is the adapter you want if you have a Proxxon FET or Microlux https://www.micromark.com/Saw-Blade-Adapter
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A caveat for Malco, in the past they have had a $100 minimum order, but their prices are very reasonable.
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A good source in US is Malco Saw.. Not in a good situation to post a link right now, but will later if no one beats me to it. For Proxxon , get the 1/2" arbor adaptor from MicroMark. It will give you a lot more blade options.
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Why not just a right angle punch of some sort? All you really need is just a hole/ depression that you can stick something into to represent a treenail.. It seems to me that the work you have to do after you have a hole will be more of a challenge than the hole itself.
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It might have to do with what MIR asked before the post was edited. Since my response was never responded to, I'm inclined to believe it might have been relevant at the time and MIR hasn't returned in two years. I hope they are doing well.
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To get a better feel for the tapering some measurements help. Determine the number of full width planks at '4' then divide the measurement indicated in green by the number of planks. You might also want to do the same at the stern. However the measurement at the stern might be a little bigger than '4 ' which would require wider stock or the introduction of a stealer. With a first planking I would leave some gaps and fill them in with scrap. It's really not that critical for the first planking, but it makes for good practice looking ahead to the final planking. I really did not do a proper job on my earlier builds, so they would not serve as a good example. I plan on trying to get it right this time but I haven't caught up with you as far as planking is concerned. Hopefully I will have something soon.
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That looks really good! Is the wood bass?
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Laser cutting services?
Gregory replied to Jsk's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
I'm sure they are, but with the same caveats Chuck mentioned. Even more-so if you don't provide ready to go .svg or other vector based files. Metal cutting would probably add another cost factor over wood. An alternative, possibly cheaper, would be photo etching. Just Google " Photo etching services " ... -
Laser cutting services?
Gregory replied to Jsk's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
..But it doesn't do 3D, except in a very limited sense.😁 -
Laser cutting services?
Gregory replied to Jsk's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Tabletop laser cutters are getting cheaper and better all the time. If I were going to upgrade anytime soon, I would go with this: xTool S1 Enclosed Diode Laser Cutter Your main concern would be venting. -
Laser cutting services?
Gregory replied to Jsk's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
What is your budget? You could probably get a decent desk top laser for the cost of a one-off job.
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