Daniel Kimmer
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Everything posted by Daniel Kimmer
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I'm happy that it works for you. What is the brand? Please keep us posted it it works over the long run. I could use another inexpensive lamp that holds position. The ones I purchased never seemed to hold position. I would move it to a position where I needed it and the lamp, over a few minutes would sag at the joint. and come out of position. I was always having to tighten the wingnut and add tape or wedges to keep it in position. I even tried several of the lamps from different manufactures and always had the same result. I finally gave up and spent way more than I should for a Laguna Tools Chameleon LED Lathe Light. You can mount it with a clamp or you can mount it direct using screws. Very pricey but fully adjustable and always stays in place. The lamp has adjustments for brightness and the type of light from cool to very white. I was able to pick mine up on sale. I now have two of them.
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For the first planking I use plastic spring clamps or modified binder clips. The second layer I use heat bending the plank to "close to proper position" and then masking tape or rubber bands to help hold it in place. If need be, I pin the plank with brass pin nails.
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Please explain razor saws to me
Daniel Kimmer replied to nheather's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
you will enjoy using it, just remember to let the saw do the work. It is very sharp and will make very fine cuts. Just take your time. Great selection on your part. -
Please explain razor saws to me
Daniel Kimmer replied to nheather's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Most of the cutting I do by hand is done by a Ultra Thin Kerf Razor Saw 32tpi. It cost around 10 $. The wood I cut generally is not very thick. I have a small chop / miter saw from Proxxon for any larger wood. I have several of the zona saws but i find the ultra thin kerf razor saw to be my "go-to". -
Keith, When you started the Steam Donkey you thought you would barely have time to finish it and now you're thinking about a Lula and a garbage scow, I love it. The weathering is exceptional. Great work. Dan
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Keith, You stated " The wood used also comes into play. At times I have to mix lighter woods with darker woods to make a piece." Is there wood you need that you don't have or a shade of wood you require. I have a lot more if you need more. Let me know. I have more mahogany, walnut, yellow cedar, and cherry. After reviewing your latest photos I definitely think you really need to keep building models long enough to build a second donkey pile driver where the boiler engine assembly is not covered by a shed, or at least consider having a side panel open where you can see the works inside. All the detail you put into building an accurate boiler engine assembly should not be covered up. Either way keep up the excellent work, I love the detail. Dan
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Ras, I am so envious of your skill. I have all the tools, (lathe, milling machine, soldering unit, etc.) but lack your skill. I'm 67 so I have time to improve. I think the brass and all the detailed work truly makes for a great focal point and just looks fantastic. Your model is a great inspiration to the many of us that lack the skill but can dream. Keep up the incredible work.
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Keith, Awesome build so far, I really like the detail you add to the model. I think you should build two of the floating pile drivers. Have one with the steam engine exposed and the other in a shed, you could then have the best of both worlds. The diorama would be slightly larger, but you could make it work.
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Keith, pretty awesome, keep the pictures flowing. If there is a need for more wood, let me know. Happy to share with you. Your creativity is amazing.
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Keith, I've been following along on your latest project. I took the time to read your entire USS Tennesse log and besides the detail of the build I enjoyed the history. I think your current log is awesome. If you need any more wood let me know. Happy to give you more. If you need a certain dimension also let me know. Like I told you, I enjoy spending time in the basement at the "saw mill" cutting and milling. Dan
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I have about 300 pcs of plank wood, mostly 3 to 7 mils in width and between 1 and 7 mils in thickness. The lengths vary from 20 inches to 36. The type of wood is mostly walnut with some mahogany, basswood, and balsa. I have a couple of rulers in the photos to give you an idea of size. You will need to pay for the shipping and whatever tube, tape, or packaging required. If you're in Michigan or northern Indianna, you can always drive to pick it up. I live 24 miles west of Lansing. Send me a private message if interested. Only giving it to someone in USA or Canada.
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Very impressive work, fantastic model thus far. Will keep following your build.
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fantastic job on the model, the paint scheme is perfect. I'm envious of your skill.
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Kris, The two caliper readout displays show a "zero" button, if you reset the display to zero does it give you an accurate consistent number? If you want to drill holes every 6 mils can you use the zero after each hole drilled to help measure the next 6 mils? The use of the calipers was a brilliant idea. The only reason I stopped using my Proxxon milling machine was due to a lack of a DRO readout. I switched over to a Sherline and purchased a DRO set up from Sherline that I installed. Had I figured out a way to mount the calipers I would have saved myself a chunk on money. Nice going, keep us posted on the durability of the setup. Thank you for sharing.
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I have both the sherline lathe and the mill and love them. A friend of mine has the Taig and we often argued which is best. We reached the consensus you would never go wrong with purchasing either. We both tried the others mill and lathe and agreed they were both very well designed and worked great. His Mill was larger that the Sherlines but I could pick mine up and move it where I wanted (35 pounds compared to the Taig weighing in at over a 100 lbs)) The Taig mill was larger and could handle larger items compared to my Sherline. I found I wanted the ability to move mine if needed (on and off the work bench). I also found a lot more accessories for the Sherline mill and lathe than what the Taig had available. I think the Taig mill could handle larger items and harder metals that the Sherline but for model making the Sherline works great.
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I wear a dust mask and use a shop vac, it is a little loud but i can direct the nozzle at the location or tool I'm using and it collects most of the dust. I have a clamp that i mounted to a board that holds the hose nozzle in position. I wear ear muff style noise protection.
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Chopper Lesson Learned
Daniel Kimmer replied to Todd Hart's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I use the RP Toolz Cutter, It is aluminum and very sturdy and cuts very well. I make a cut a little long and then make a second cut where I'm shaving just a small amount of material off the stock part.
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Electric sander
Daniel Kimmer replied to Ron Gagner's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I purchased one of these from Menards for real cheap money and it serves me well for years until I purchased the Byrnes Model Machine 4 inch variable speed. It depends on how much you think you will use and need a sander. The Byrnes sander is nearly 9 times the price and it is worth the money but again how much do you plan to use the sander.
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Tiny "precision" drill press
Daniel Kimmer replied to Ron Burns's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Is there a way to change out the center post to obtain some additional height? The use of an x y table would be nice for the possibility of some precision when drilling wood deck fittings. Currently with it only being 7 inches in height there is not sufficient room for a table unless I misunderstood the dimensions of the drill press. I can see where a small micro drill press would be useful but I would still want an X Y table. I also use very small bits and if this would help with the breaking of the bits it would be of help. -
Hand powered sander - not Ultimation
Daniel Kimmer replied to bruce d's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Yes I'm interested in purchasing a small hand operated disc sander. I've been trying to find a 4 to 6 inch (100mm to 150mm) size. Something that would fit easily on a work bench or desk to allow fine sanding and trimming up tp a line or creating a controlled angle or just a perfect 90 degree cut. If it is high quality I'm willing to pay a good but fair price.- 1 reply
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You are a builder after my own heart, you have at least three ships going at the same time, and you appear to love building the hulls. I currently have four that I'm building. I seem to not be able to bring myself to start the rigging on any of them. I look forward to following your build log. I see you are also from Michigan, have you found any good hobby shops in the state besides Riders in Flint and Grand Rapids, and J Bar Hobbies in Tecumseh? Slim pickings for a good hobby shop other than what is on line.
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Wow, some great ideas in this string of post on how to store spare planking and lumber, sure beats the couple of small barrels I use. I like the cardboard tube idea. I have some spare PVC short plumbing pieces that were from a major replumbing of a 1900 built home and I think I may try to use them. I'm thinking if I cut the PVC to the same angle configuration as the cardboard and use end caps to secure them to a board I could make a pretty good storage system. If I'm successful and if it does not look too bad, I'll post a few photos.
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Go to the Xuron website Xuron Corp, they have an excellent assortment of small pliers with 1.5 mm and 3 mm width heads. They work great and for me work far better than tweezers.
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Question for you: Do they hold the #11 blade extremely tight so it does not loosen up under pressure? My current #11 blade holder by Exacto loosens up under stress when cutting. My #11 blade holder from Excel also loosens up with stress. The Fiskars barrel handle for the #11 blade does a pretty good job staying tight but I could use a handle a little larger. The ones you have look very nice.
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I have two of them and they work very well drilling into wood or thin brass and copper for model ship building. If I need to drill something that requires a lot of torque, I use my Foredom with a number H30 Handpiece with a chuck or the H44 Handpiece with a collet. I find the Dremel Stylo to work very well for very small drill bits.
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