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Jared

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Everything posted by Jared

  1. Jared
    Will plastic block affect the lifespan of the model? Will they become brittle with time (20 years)? I have read about plastic models deteriorating with age, especially if exposed to direct sunlight.
  2. Jared
    Thank Rob. I knew that the lower fore yard lift was going to be even more difficult if I tried installing it after the main stay. That us why I installed and rigged the lower fore yard and the lifts when I did. I am going to take a bit of a pause and think out the remaining rigging sequence to completion more carefully. I will also consider your yard pre-rigging suggestion. Thank you.
  3. Jared
    The 2 things I fear most is pulling out a lift eyebolt and snapping off (again) the end tip of the bowsprit. That is why you can see a pair of thick dowels "guards" extending from the base of my model at the bow.
  4. Jared
    Thanks Rob. Your rigging work is impeccable. I had to learn much of what you recommended the hard way! And it was painful in many ways. When I started the lifts I quickly realized it would be impossible to rig the lower blocks to the eyebolts that were already secured under the fife bar. The only feasible option I could think of was to pull out the eyebolts, then attach a lower block, rig the upper block (see photo) and then, with great difficulty, reglue the eyebolt (assembly) back in place. 🤬 As to the rest of the running rigging, my current plan is to I limit this to the yard braces, halliards, downhauls, lifts and vangs.
  5. Jared
    Thanks to both of you for sharing your rigging knowledge. To clarify, the rigging sizes I have been using have been as per the kit's plans. All rigging threads supplied in the kit or purchased as additional sizes from Model Expo were double checked for size by myself using a microscope with a micrometer. The particular tan thread I used for the 5" lift line was made by Mantua. It is free of fuzz but is relatively stiff (feels like it has been starched). This makes it harder to tighten, especially around sharp bends. I had to be extremely carefully during tightening not to pull out the eyebolts secured to the deck under the fife rail. For the remaining lower yard lifts I will have to use the same line to preserve a uniform look. The upper lifts are of smaller diameters so they should be much easier to work with. Thanks as always for your feedback and encouragement. Much appreciated.
  6. Jared
    I tried tightening the port side lift. It's about as far as I can go. I then fitted the main stay which included rigging through bullseyes and making 2 tiny cleats on the fore mast.
  7. Jared
    Your build is coming along very nicely. Interesting historic account if the launch, especially the style of the writing.
  8. Jared
    Over the last 3 days I have mounted the lower yard on the foremast, together with the chain sling and the fore lifts. I can't even begin to describe had difficult the lifts were to make and rig, given how tight the working space at the fife bar. I am off for celebratory scotch! At this time I am not planning to rig any cluelines.
  9. Jared
    As I work through the rigging on my FF I have really come to appreciate your build log and the great skill of your work George.
  10. Jared
    Completed the footropes on lower fore and main yards. To get them to hang properly I treated them with diluted white glue and weighed them down with small copper clips. A light coat of black paint was also applied.
  11. Jared
    Today I tackled the lower forestay, which was a bit of tricky work involving rigging through bullseyes in a tight space and siezing the rope.
  12. Jared
    Have now finished the lower yard on the mizzen mast. It turned out to be an exercise in frustration. The choice of using basswood in the kit for the yards was a bad one IMHO. The narrower yards become quite fragile especially near their ends, once the various holes are drilled. My mizzen lower yard broke about 1/3" from one end, where I had drilled 2 perpendicular holes for 4 eyebolts. I twice tried gluing the broken end back on using a combination of super glue and yellow wood glue, but it kept breaking off. The third time I went to epoxy glue and this seems to have worked.
  13. Jared
    Thank you 😄
  14. Jared
    Have completed the lower yards on the forecast and mainmast, and temporarily mounted them on the model. Its finally starting to look like a tall ship. Correction: The eyebolts I inserted at the ends of the lower fore and main masts are wring and have been removed. They are meant to go on the ends of the topsail yards only, to secure the Flemish horse footropes see fig. 88 in kit's manual). Foot ropes not added yet.
  15. Jared
    For the remaining stunsail bearling yards I decided to greatly simplify the construction of the stunsil irons. The way I did it in #189 above was a real pain because of the small brass wire between the 2 rings. It is much easier to solder the 2 rings together and not add the pin (see photo). The weld is much stronger and, at this scale, basically looks the same.
  16. Jared
    I have completed the lower yard fittings. After doing the jackstays' I now realize I could have been an orthodontist! All that remains now before mounting the yard is to add the footnotes, make the pin for the truss and painting everything black.
  17. Jared
    Made some interesting progress over the last 2 days. One of my biggest concerns with this model was having to construct the required iron fittings on the masts, in particular the lower yard truss and the stunsail irons. I don't have a lot of experience working with brass or soldering very small parts. Happily I can report that these parts were much easier to build than what I expected. The attached photos show the results so far. I basically constructed everything using brass strips, brass rod and brass sheet, more or less following the drawings in the kit. I can provide more detail if wanted.
  18. Jared
    Thanks George. I think it is quite complex as I looks from fig. 104 in the instruction book that the bottom of the stunsail sails were attached to the stunsail boom which extends or retracts as I described earlier, while the top of the stunsail sail attaches to a stunsail boom that is hauled up be a halliard. I am planning to install the stunsail booms only, in the retracted position.
  19. Jared
    I wanted to show better quality images of the ratlines than the phone images I posted 2 days ago. Shot with a Nikon D850 on a tripod. The second image was focus stacked from about 30 images to show everything in sharp focus.
  20. Jared
    While most of my yards have been turned on a mini lathe I have not started to add the various fittings to them yet. I am going to start this now to as I continue with the standing rigging. Looking ahead at the yard plans (see attached photo) I have a question about the operation of the Stunsail yards. The photo show their stowage position on the top left and their extended position on the top right for when in use. My question is how these yards were moved from the stowage to extended positions and vice versa. Were they moved by rigging or by the more basic "arm strong" method? Thanks.
  21. Jared
    Thanks for your encouraging feedback. I have no shortage of camera gear and really should be using it as I did earlier in this log (see page 1).
  22. Jared
    Made good progress over the last 3 days and completed all the lower ratlines on the port side. One of the best things I found with the sewing method was how easy it can be used to fix (replace) individual rungs that don't quite look right. I have noticed wide angle distortion in some of my photos which gives the appearance of the masts and mast tops looking out of alignment with each other. Please ignore.
  23. Jared
    Thank you.
  24. Jared
    Have now completed the ratlines on lower main and mizzen masts on the starboard side. Really like the sewing method.
  25. Jared
    Thanks George and ClipperFan. I have just completed the ratlines on the lower forecast stbd. side. I decided to not worry about putting ratlines or not behind the futtock shrouds. The shrouds are all so close together there I don't think you would ever see them if they had been mounted. The finished assembly with 2 of the intermediate stages are shown in the 3 attached photos. I printed a pattern with 10.5 line spacing units in Excel and clamped different sized pieces to the back of the shrouds. Using the pattern it was easy to sew my way through the shrouds, maintaining a straight line. As described in George's blog (pg. 15 I think), every 6th ratline extended across all 6 shrouds, the others only crossed shrouds 2-6 (counting from fore to aft). I found it best to sew all the threads in place and not adjusting them for tightness until all we're in place. I used dilute white glue with a drop of detergent to fix all the ratlines in place. I then cut off the excess thread at the ends of each ratline. For the ratlines on the metal futtock shrouds I simple glued the thread across the shrouds. When dried in place I tied a small knot at each end then cut off the excess thread.

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