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Paul Le Wol

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Everything posted by Paul Le Wol

  1. Paul Le Wol
    Thanks Glenn. I am going to give the clear acrylic a try. Your rope coils look great and I don’t want to drop the ball at this stage.
  2. Paul Le Wol
    Hey Everyone, decided to make a coil with the cotton rope without using diluted PVA. Used CA on the knot at the bottom and to stick the small loop at the top to the back of the big loop. To me it looks better and is easier to shape. The coil on the left is cotton.
  3. Paul Le Wol
    Hi Cisco and Bob, thank you very much for your comments. Cisco, I copied a jig that Glenn used in his Cheerful build. Still trying different configurations. The coil hanging on the mast is from Crafty Sailor. It is 100% polyester. When coated with diluted pva it it kind of behaves but doesn’t really stick together which actually makes it look more realistic. The coil on the bow sprit step is 100% cotton from Ropes of Scale. When coated with diluted pva it really sticks together well but it needs a lot of work to get it sit right. This is the way I seem to be getting along with….. Started in the middle of a piece of 12” rope at the bottom of the center 1/8” tube. Crossed over between the center and top tube. Crossed again on top of the top tube Wrapped around all of the tubes in opposite directions and put half a square knot at the bottom of the 1/4” tube Painted with diluted pva. When dry I put a bit of CA on the knot and cut off the excess. Wrapped the small loop in the center around the top of the big loop. Gave it a test fit to show the difference between the different ropes The cotton rope still needs a bit of tweaking.
  4. Paul Le Wol
    Thank you so much everyone for the Likes. Ian, SUBaron, and Glenn, your comments are appreciated very much. Today I made a couple of rope coils and started taking pictures of them as I went just to see what they actually looked like. Not going to post everyone but it’s amazing how much tweaking they need when you zoom in. Talk to you soon
  5. Paul Le Wol
    Hi Everyone, thank you very much for the comments and Likes. Just thought I would post a few photos of the rigging. Didn’t want to post too much on this part of the build because other members have documented theirs so well. Only have a few lines to secure and then on to making coils of rope. See you all next time.
  6. Paul Le Wol
    Very nice planking Cisco. Will have to remember your technique of beveling the edges of the planks to pre-fit them and then make the edges square.
  7. Paul Le Wol
    Hey SUBaron, everything is looking great. Every once in a while I get an uploaded picture that needs rotating. I found that if I delete it, go back to the original (on an iPad) and crop it a bit, then re-upload it, usually it ends up in the correct orientation
  8. Paul Le Wol
    Hi Dave, thanks so much for your comment and thanks to everyone for their likes. I have to tell you that the only reason I got through the rigging in one piece is because I keep a tab open to Glenn Barlow’s build log. Thanks Glenn
  9. Paul Le Wol
    Hi Alan, thank you very much for your comment. Building Cheerful has been a lot of fun and I learned a lot following Chuck’s monograph and videos. I highly recommend this model to anyone wanting to build a good looking, well documented little ship. I have a warm spot in my heart for Billings Boats and last year after seeing Ekis’ beautiful build I picked up a Nordlands Baaden 416. The planking looks like a challenge but I think I’m up for it. Whenever I look at a kit from any manufacturer I always think of what it would look like if it was done with different types of wood. That’s why I think that Syren’s offerings are so appealing. Buy the parts that you need and get a lumber package from your favorite supplier. I don’t have the work space or tools to cut bulkheads and things so this system works for me. Maybe other manufacturers will eventually offer this method as an option. This week was spent rigging the yards. I took the easy way out and drilled holes where the stirrups are mounted. It made it easier for me to make them hang down the same distance. When I look a the photos I realize that more care should have been taken determining where the wraps started and ended but when you stand here looking at it, it’s not that noticeable. The tiller was mounted and then I made my first rope coil. The entryway stanchions are glued in place and now just have to try not to break anything (again). See you next week
  10. Paul Le Wol
    Thank you everyone for all of your much appreciated Likes. Glenn and Ian, thank you for your great comments. You know when I started the rigging I thought that I was in the home stretch but not so. It seems to be getting more challenging every day. You really need to be a bit of a gymnast to get to the finish line. ( If gymnasts have finish lines )
  11. Paul Le Wol
    Hello Everyone, I hope you are all well. Many many thanks to everyone for their comments and Likes. Been rigging Cheerful for a couple of weeks now. Just a few photos of the progress. Ran into a couple of glitches along the way. I forgot to install the cleats for the lower back stay tackles so like so many others I had to make a long-reach drill bit holder and an “oops I forgot the cleat” installer. The cleats I had were to big to install horizontally so they went in vertically. I also decided to remake the entryway stanchions. They seemed to be a bit over sized. Used the same 1/16 inch tubing. Flattened the end and drilled a hole in it. Rounded it off and blackened it. Then gave them a test fit. Then carried on with more rigging. I ran out to the Falconet hooks that I have been using so while waiting for my order from Crafty Sailor I will start rigging the yards. Talk to you soon
  12. Paul Le Wol
    Hi Rid, thanks very much for your comment. The only thing I did with the carronades was clean them with an alcohol wipe (the ones that come in the little envelopes) and then place them directly into the blackener. The blackener that I used for them was made by AK. They came out surprisingly nice . After a bit of buffing they ended up having more of a gun metal look The AK blackener was very expensive. That’s why I ended up using the Novacan for the rest of the build
  13. Paul Le Wol
    Aircraft Spruce has a good selection of aircraft ply. I usually go to the one next to the Brantford airport. They have many locations in the States.
  14. Paul Le Wol
    Allan, thank you for your comments, you are very kind. I was fortunate to have chosen such a well documented subject both by the manufacturer and the community. My rope order from Crafty Sailor came so rigging has resumed. Very nice rope. I think the finish is looming on the horizon.
  15. Paul Le Wol
    Hi Cisco, your AVS is looking great. If you are using the Cheerful monograph as a reference you would now be at Chapter Four where Chuck describes using tick strips and planking fans. I found this method very valuable in obtaining a good result. It really takes the guesswork out of the picture.
  16. Paul Le Wol
    Hello Grey, the shaking that you are talking about is a well documented phenomenon. As soon as you apply glue to a part, the closer you get to where you are going to stick it, the more your hand will start to shake. You will notice that if you dry fit a part, no shaking. At least that’s been my experience 😀. Enjoying your build very much
  17. Paul Le Wol
    Thanks Glenn, I appreciate your comment very much. I have probably seen all of this before somewhere so I can’t really take any credit.🙂
  18. Paul Le Wol
    Hello to Everyone, thank you for all of your comments and likes. The timberheads have been made and installed. Filed a profile in a strip of brass and clamped it to each side of a strip of 1/8 x 7/32 inch cedar and then filed away. Pinned and glued them to the cap rail with CA The entry way stanchions were made from 1/16 inch brass tube with 1/32 inch brass rod glued inside of it with CA. Beads were glued to the top end. The coating on the beads was burned off with the butane torch and all of the parts were blackened. Not going to install them until a bit more rigging is finished. The rigging is still on hold so that's about it until next time....Paul
  19. Paul Le Wol
    Hey SUBaron, great build log. I like that you’re overcoming the challenges and having fun at the same time. It is going to turn out beautifully. Paul
  20. Paul Le Wol
    Hi Ian, thank you very much for your generous comment. I have been quietly following all of your build logs for some time now and have been greatly inspired by them. No matter what subject you decide to build it always stands out. Paul
  21. Paul Le Wol
    Hello Everyone, many thanks to all of you for your comments and likes. I said I was going to do the timberheads, but I kept hearing the Syren anchor mini kit calling me. After a couple of failed attempts at applying the pudenning to the supplied anchor rings I used the supplied wire for the buoys to make the anchor rings. I tied some .018 Griffin rigging line to the wire and then applied CA along the length of the wire that was to be wrapped. Wrapped the line around the wire. About an inch and a quarter. Wound the wrapped wire around the shaft of an appropriately sized screw driver. Cut the ring leaving enough bare wire to fit into the hole in the shank of the anchor. The stock was attached and the ends were drilled and pinned under the outer "iron" bands which were made using heat shrink. The seizing on the rings was done with 30 wt brown cotton thread and brushed with diluted white glue. I guess the pudenning should have been brown. They are easy enough to take off and put on so maybe if I have nothing going on they can be changed. See you later....Paul
  22. Paul Le Wol
    Thanks very much rudybob. I have been enjoying watching your innovative problem solving in your Pinnace build log. Paul
  23. Paul Le Wol
    Hey rudybob , I’ve only planked one hull using the tick strips and planking fan but this is the method I used. After putting the marks on the tick strip, I would only transfer one mark to the bulkhead for the next strake. After finishing that strake I would check to see if the tick strip could still be used for the next strake. If it could still be used I would put one more mark on the bulkhead. If the the same tick strip couldn’t be used again because I had not been right on the money with the previous plank, then I would make a new tick strip. By only putting one mark at a time on each bulkhead I wouldn’t have to get rid on a bunch of marks if I messed up. Hope this makes sense. Paul
  24. Paul Le Wol
    Hello Everyone, I hope you are all well. Thanks very much to All for your comments and Likes. For a couple of weeks now I have been knee deep in rigging. It was going good until I got to the standing rigging and decided to use the brown Griffin rigging line that I had. Going to put it on hold and see about getting some better rope. Griffin line is kind of mushy and just doesn't look good when you seize it. Very disappointing. Other people's mileage may vary but that's just my opinion. When I built my Bluenose, I had bought a book that had lots of photographs of the gaff being lashed to the boom when she was in port. Can't remember the title of the book. The only pictures I have of her were taken just before she left for a new home. Lots of reflections from the glass case. So that is the way I want to rig Cheerful. Not sure how it was done back in the day so I made a loop on each end of a piece of rope. Slipped one loop over the end of the gaff, wrapped the rope around the boom a couple of times and slipped the other loop onto the end of the gaff. If anyone has any thoughts on how this may have been done I would be more than happy to hear them. The block for the flag halliard was slid onto the gaff and the rope will probably be coiled on the deck. I picked up some Falconet 11mm belaying pins because the 9mm Falconet wood pins that I had were very small. Wanted to use wooden pins instead of the brass 9mm pins made by Technell even though the brass pins are very nice. The 9mm Falconet pin measures more like 8.5mm and the handle of the 11mm Falconet pin is very close to being the same size as the 9mm Technell. The 11mm pins look bigger in the photo than in real life. While the rigging is on hold I will probably work on the timberheads. See you next time. Paul
  25. Paul Le Wol
    Hi Capella, I think at Modelexpo you get 12 pieces @ 500 mm equaling 6 of the 1000 mm strips from Modelers Central. So about the same price if I’m not mistaken in my math. Paul

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