Paul Le Wol

Hi Chris, I have three work tables. One for drawings, one for the build board and one for fabricating. I always stand while working so the tables are all 42” high which is about elbow height for me. The build board and fabricating tables sit in the middle of the room so that all sides are accessible. If I get tired of standing I have a roll around drafting chair with the seat sitting 30” off the floor. I find that this works for me because I don’t like having to climb out of a chair if I have to go get something which is quite often. I never put anything in cupboards because once the door is closed I can’t remember where it is or if I even have such a thing. Each table has an led shop light hanging over it and an articulating magnifying light clamped to it. And lastly I invested in a good shop vac that doesn’t scream when you turn it on. Good luck with your new shipyard 👍

Hi Henry, I have just downloaded the file and and opened it on an iPad. Tested some of the links and they worked. Hope you can get it to work!

Hi Jacques, your rigging is really looking good. If you are making hooks and eyes with the coated annealed wire and it gets scratched you can burn the coating off with a mini torch or a lighter. It will turn a dark grey colour and won’t need to be painted.

Bob, congratulations on finishing your excellent build of The Duchess of Kingston. 👍

Thank you Ian, always glad to hear from you.

Thank you Glen, I’m happy that you can make this voyage!

Love the last symmetry photo Glen. Very nice!

That’s a good looking machine Keith. I’m still getting used to mine. Funny thing is that even if I’m using a repeater most times I still double check the measurement. Must have trust issues 😀

Hi Phil, your offer is very kind. Thank you. I agree, these HAER drawings are very detailed. I spend a lot of time just looking at them and discovering new tidbits. The notes on the drawings are aiso full of great information.

Thank you very much Jacques. They are great if you have lots of cuts to make. The blade on this one only cuts square on one side so you still have to square up the end of the strip you are cutting from before making the next cut. I don’t think it is much more precise than a miter box and a stop but when it came to cutting the cover boards which were 5/32” x 5/32” x 7/32” long basswood it made a big difference just being able to pick the pieces up with tweezers and glue them into place. The cut on the piece you are using is straight, clean and doesn’t really need to be dressed.

Thank you Keith. I think I would have been struggling a bit without it.

Hey Everyone, wishing you all well. Thank you very much for the Comments and Likes. In the last post I mentioned that I would like to attach the main deck cabin but after some thought decided that it would get in the way of laying out the planking. The planking I chose to start with are the ones that run along the inboard side of the bulwark stanchions as seen in the next photo. They are labelled LONG'LS which I take as being short for longitudinals. Some spacers were made and laid on the waterways and then the long'ls were glued to the bulkhead extensions. The bulwark stanchions that rise up to the cabin deck where laid out to get the shear. I used the same process as when laying out the main deck cabin. A piece of 1/8" basswood sheet was used where the height changes. Next came making a multitude of bulwark stanchions and covering boards. A couple of months ago I decided that this build would require some machine assistance so I bought a Slicer from Ultimation Tools. It really shines when it comes to making these small pieces. Port and starboard stanchions were done simultaneously. I'm now halfway down the main deck. **** The frames that pass either side of the main hatch will be reinforced with an additional frames as seen in the next picture **** ( This statement is not true. The stanchions in that area have the same spacing as the others. The 10 1/2” frames stop at the deck beams and the 13 1/2” frames continue up to become stanchions. The two 10 1/2 “ frames that were installed have been removed. Now back to the slicing.

Hi Jacques, that’s a great idea shaping the Billing part into a hook. Good luck with replacing the eyebolt!

Hi Jacques, your Chilota is looking amazing. If you look in Chapter 9 of Chuck’s Cheerful monograph, it shows filing the upper portion of the chainplate to make it thinner in order to form a hook. Perhaps you could try something like that.

Mark, congratulations on completing this fine model. Looking forward to your next set of photos!

Hi Mike, thank you for your comment. It is greatly appreciated!

Hi Joe, I agree that operating everything from the cockpit would be quite a challenge. The USVMYG is the US Vintage Model Yacht Group. I believe they are mostly about pond yachting. They have a very nice website ( usvmyg.org ) . Pond yachts look like so much fun! There are also some higher resolution photos of Chapelle’s drawing out there. If you haven’t seen them go to villagecraftsmen.com. In the banner at the top of the page click on “Journal “. The next page has a menu on the right hand side. Click on 2013 and then September. There are three photos in the North Carolina folder. Sorry but I’m not very good at posting links. It is a great site to browse through with tons of articles on local history .

Hi @Thistle17, I just went through the plans that I got from USVMYG. This is the rigging diagram for their 50” Sharpie. Another piece to the puzzle.

Hi Joe, nice to hear from you. I looked at those pictures of the Sharpies that you posted for a long long time. They were very helpful. For the most part I used the rigging diagram from the Glad Tidings and made a lot of assumptions as to how this boat was rigged. Too many lines and not enough places to attach them to.😀

“And your address is? ......... no way, Paul. She's way too nice a model to be adopted out” Its been finished for a while now and no one has met the requirements yet so I will probably have to get going on making a case for it.

The first visitor I get that looks at it more than once is taking it home with them. 🙂 Thank you Keith, I really appreciate your comment !

Hi Keith, I bought this cabinet ( Milsbo ) from IKEA just before starting Wapama. There are two glass panels in the back separated by a shelf support. I plan on replacing them with one big sheet of acrylic and have the doors at the back against the wall. It is about 40” wide and 39” high from the floor and 14” deep. I just looked it up to see how much it costs but it wasn’t listed. I paid just over 200 CAD for it. Around here you can’t even buy the glass for that. Right now it is acting as a storage area for the Sharpie.

Thank you John, I hope you had a nice getaway.

Nice recovery Jacques and beautifully crafted!

Thank you Jacques. When you stand beside it , it doesn’t seem as big as in the photos. I think it’s one saving grace is that it doesn’t have a bowsprit 😀 Thank you Gary, I find myself more looking at this model than actually working on it