
Paul Le Wol
NRG Member-
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Everything posted by Paul Le Wol
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Hi Gary, thanks so much for your comments and support. Going to have to start thinking about what’s next. Only have a couple of hours worth of work left on the sharpie
- 201 replies
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- Oyster Sharpie
- first scratch build
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Great weathering effects on the base Glen. Looks superb. Going to have to add Concrete Block to my list of shop tools to acquire 😀!
- 185 replies
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- Flying Dutchman
- Black pearl
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Thank you very much Dave. Started this build in March of 2023. That’s quite a while ago and it’s gone by very quickly. Hope time starts slowing down some 😀
- 201 replies
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- Oyster Sharpie
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Hi Glen, thank you for your comments. They are appreciated very much!
- 201 replies
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John, thank you very much for your generous comments!
- 201 replies
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Hi Keith, thank you for your comment and thank you for joining me on this ride. It’s been a lot of fun!
- 201 replies
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Hi Everyone, I hope you are all having a great New Year. Thank you very much for the Comments and Likes. This will probably be the second last post for this log. It’s coming together quickly. I started by stropping the 5mm deadeyes that a friend gave me. They are from an abandoned Billing kit. Slices were cut from a 1/4” brass tube. After being cleaned up they were heated. When cool they were shaped around the deadeye and then the whole thing was placed into blackening solution. The fences were made next to see if there would be any clearance issues with the deadeyes. A template was made from a file folder. There is a slight curvature in the deck where it runs past the cabin so the horizontal slats were edge bent all together. They are 1/32” x 3/32”. According to Chapelle’s drawing, none of the posts are spaced equally. Probably to avoid scuppers and things. After a test fit the fences were given a coat of clear shellac and then airbrushed. A #22 copper pin was used in every other post to attach the fence to the deck. The posts are 3/32” square. The pins are glued into the posts but not the deck. A length of.009” rope was attached with a clovehitch to the shroud ( with a bit of varnish) where the top of the deadeye is located. This rope is used to tie the knot where the shroud passes itself at the top of the deadeye. Once these are finished it will be just a matter of cleaning up some ropes on the deck. Hope to see you soon.
- 201 replies
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- Oyster Sharpie
- first scratch build
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Bob, you’ve built a beautiful ship. Perhaps you can start a build log so that we can see her completion. I have been using Ropes of Scale synthetic rope and using Vallejo Matt Polyurethane Varnish straight out of the bottle to shape it. If you need it to look like wire rope or cable I think Ben will work with you to get the color you need.
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Dave, thank you very much for your support.
- 201 replies
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- Oyster Sharpie
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Thank you Glen, I’m finally absorbing some of the metal work knowledge that’s available in this forum.
- 201 replies
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Thank you John for your comment. I appreciate it very much.
- 201 replies
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Hi Jeffery, welcome to MSW. I just used an online scale calculator and plugged in 1/200 scale for 728 feet which Wikipedia gave as the length of a North Carolina class battleship. It came up with 43.68”. The width came in at 6.48”. You would have to verify that because I have been known to be wrong before. You can play around with these calculators to see what scale is best for you.
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Thank you gentlemen for your kind remarks. I appreciate your confidence druxey, but I don’t think I’m there yet 😀
- 201 replies
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- Oyster Sharpie
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Hi Everyone, I hope you all had a great Christmas. Thanks to all for the Comments, Likes, and support. Finally decided to sit down and make two fairleads for the bow. They are made from 1!16” x 1/64” brass strip soldered together, cut and shaped. They were sprayed with Vallejo Oily Steel and then touched up after mounting. Mostly to paint the brass nail heads that had been filed and sanded while chucked in a dremel. The drawing that I have shows the anchor rope going through some sort of block that is mounted to the side of the bowsprit. I’m thinking that it might be a snatch block although my block doesn’t really look like a snatch block. This rope was shaped in place using Vallejo Matt Polyurethane Varnish. The rest of the rope coils are being made using the following procedure. Cotton thread is taped to a dowel and the rope is then wrapped around it. The coil is tied with the thread and then slid off of the dowel. I like using the Press’nSeal because it sticks to most things in this case a piece of foam board. The coil is brushed with varnish being careful not to get it on the cotton thread. Once the varnish has dried I trim one of the loose ends ( depending on how you are going to mount it) and glue it with CA where it won’t be seen. For some reason I found that the CA works better after the rope has been varnished. Varnish is used to glue the coil to whatever it is mounted to and once it has dried the coil is shaped and varnished again. A bit more rope work and then on to the fences and the deadeyes. Have a great New Year!
- 201 replies
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Thank you Keith. Merry Christmas to you, your family, and to everyone in this wonderful community!
- 201 replies
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Glen, Big Country is a fine looking animal!
- 185 replies
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- Flying Dutchman
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Thank you Jacques, I have been airbrushing them and then touching them up with a brush after they are installed. For some reason these two ended up being different colours. Thank you Glen, I appreciate your comments very much. Keith, thank you very much for your nice comments!
- 201 replies
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- Oyster Sharpie
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