Barbossa

A small update.
Or should I say that it is an update from Anja ????
She makes them for me   
 
4 of the 6 parts of the netting are finished.
I only has to make some minor modifications.
Just cutting a few loose ends.....
But picture's of what Anja has done.
When all is finished I will place them and go further with the rigging.
And yes, I keep them white instead of black.
I like this better   
 
Sjors
 

 

Time for an update again.
 
The channels and deadeyes are on there place. Sjors has  taken a look at it, when he was here and he said the angle of chainplateparts/shrouds was not as bad as it looked :D :D
 
This week I will finish the last parts of the hull (drilling holes, put some eyelets on there place, the two gunports at the backside and some other thing I forgot).
The 3 stern laterns I will do when I finished the ret of the ship.
 
Next week I will start with the 4 ship boats.
 
And again some pictures...

Dockyard is still the victim of an ongoing labour dispute.  Little bit of detail added onto the main deck, tried to simulate the deck clamps and the sheave blocks.  The clamps were cut from a sheet of pear using a sharp blade and a ruler which seemed to work OK.  The standards have also been added.  Glad now I added in the sweep ports as it adds a nice touch of background detail with the deck on.  Think I need to get on with the coppering, but do have some questions...
 
Range cleats:  The kit provides a huge 'block' for these which seem way over scale and don't look like a cleat (see bottom picture).  The photo at the bottom shows these side by side with one of Chucks cleats (12mm).  The FFM indicates the range cleats are 2' 9" which translates to about 13mm in real money at scale, very similar to Chucks.  Would the size of these vary considerably between ships of different sizes. Thoughts?  I'm leaning toward Chucks. Copper plates: Amati are very clear in providing left and right sided copper plates.  I thought that British ships were coppered from the stern, forward and up which would suggest the visible edge nails would be on the aft and lower edges on the starboard side.  Is that correct?
 

Hi, very nice work
Referring to your first post and your pics hereabove: I like the hull lines too.
I can only guess - compared to a kit assembly- how appeasing this must be.
 

Hi, very nice work
Referring to your first post and your pics hereabove: I like the hull lines too.
I can only guess - compared to a kit assembly- how appeasing this must be.
 

Hi, very nice work
Referring to your first post and your pics hereabove: I like the hull lines too.
I can only guess - compared to a kit assembly- how appeasing this must be.
 

I've continued working on the cabin.
 
I measured the place where the crossbeam must fit in the planks.
 

 
Afterwards after sawing i glued both planks in place and let try dry overnight.
 

 

 
I then made the tree pieces to cross the cabin.
 

 
And glued them in place.
 

 

Hi all!
Time again foor an update.
All the gun port lids are on there place, including the lid ropes.
I just started with the channels.
 
Gr., Hennie

Thanks for the likes and the comments.  
 
Full disclosure time.   The results this time around were not good, but have provided a learning experience.   I found, I can produce the tubs, the rails, the roof and assemble them.  A couple of errors reared their ugly heads and so it's back to the drawing board.   I think I just need to remake the "tubs' and get the error angle and size right.
 
First pic... doesn't look too bad.  I picked a black stain for two reasons.   On a test, I wasn't getting the railing sticking to either flat acrylic or flat enamel paint.  The second is that the contrast is better.  I used the mill to hollow out the inside of the tub, something I'd not done before so definitely learned something.  
 

 
Here's where the failure hit... the tub is too big and thus the railing goes too far astern and secondly, note the rollup at each of the railing at the roof join.  I didn't get the angle on the tub right,  The railing needs to lean in more toward the hull.
 

 
Rework, re-do time has started...   I hope someone else can learn from my screw-ups.  

Nice & crisp, well done !

Upper hull is finally completed!      Big milestone passed in completing the upper hull planking.  Took me a while as I was planking according to TFFM, which had a bunch of oddly shaped planks, and even a scarph joint thrown in for good measure.  Because I was using a mixture of woods and dyes, I was also trying to ensure that the planking ended up in such a way that the intersections of the areas would be overlapped by the various rails for a clean look, especially if the stains bled from one area to another or there were other blemishes.
 
For the frieze areas, I used boxwood as I thought it looked best when stained using General Finishes Blue Dye Stain.  I loved working with pear, but wow, boxwood is a really nice wood to work with.  Here are some pictures after finishing the boxwood planking and installing the fixed blocks:
 

 

 

 

 
 
The boxwood looked so nice in its natural state that it was a tough call to proceed with staining the area blue.  But, I went ahead with my original plan and added the blue stain, and then added a row of redheart planks to the very top of the upper hull near the forecastle and quarterdeck:
 

 

 
 
For the forecastle area, I had soaked the redheart for a while as one long piece that went around the full forecastle.  It surprisingly bent very nicely and didn't give any problems.  I thought about keeping that area as one piece, but since I had two planks on the quarterdeck I went with two on the forecastle.
 
I still need to do some touchups, including sanding and otherwise finishing the redheart, as well as ultimately sanding back the planking to the gunport patterns (left a little extra on purpose just in case...), but I couldn't be happier with how this came out.  The colors in my opinion complement each other nicely (they should deepen a bit after I apply a finish to it), and I really like that they show the grain and planking lines.  There are a few areas between the blue and dark brown that aren't perfect, but like I said, these will be covered with the rails.  And while I was very careful to follow the TFFM planking pattern, on both sides of the model, I had a weird extra gap just forward the third gunport.  Since that gap will itself by covered by the rails, I didn't worry about it.
 
So, I'm super happy where things are right now, and am pretty burned out by all the custom planking.  I might remove the bulkhead extensions at the waist and finish my deck planking, but I don't know that I have the desire to start on the bulwark planking.  TFFM has a sample planking pattern that probably won't be too hard to execute, but the thought of fitting more planks right now is not all that appealing.  I might switch back to my Morgan build and think about something other than fitting crazy shaped planks for the next few weeks.
 
Looks like I'm approaching the 2-year anniversary of the start of this build.  At the rate I'm going, especially since I'm looking to add full sails to the model, I probably have at least a good 3 years left on the build, but likely longer.

After making the decision, I leapt into the fray once more.     I've drawn and cut the rails out of Euro Boxwood (they still need some more cleaning up after seeing the macro photo...  In real life at wide open Ferrari speed, they look pretty good.
 
The plan is to finish shaping the roof where the rail goes, hollow it out to the "bathtub" look on the rail side and bottom.  I'm unsure if I can get a bit in there to leave the back against the hull...  I'll then probably dye it black.  The rails will be soaked, heated (or steamed if the Admiral gives permission) and bent to the "tub".    I hope to have this done in a couple of days as I'm really anxious to start working on the stern carvings.
 
Sorry about the photo.. 
 

Hi Bob,
 
thanks for your comment
 
the parts are only small, but quite easy makeable. All 40 bearing parts are done and 20 of them mounted on the port side already. If the CA glued joint holds well, it will be an alternative to soldering. I was afraid to solder so near to the railing.
 
For the deck housing I`m starting with the aft cabin section, in order to get a feeling for the matching of doors, windows, handrails, etc. Also I´m intendind to do some structuring and metal plating. The housings arre from 1,5 mm ply, with rounded corners (like shown in an earlier post of this thread). To suit the decks curvature the fore- and aft plates have concave resp. convex curvature.
For the first study, there is again an obligatory hand scetch, so that alterations / improvements can be implemented easily
 
Nils
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
This is a view on a card built (not completed) model, borrowed from the web
 
 

 
 

 
 

Update....
 
 
today started with the lower davit-bearings. There will be 10 boat stations on each side, calling for 40 turnable (360°) davits in total. The davits will be looking like prototype one shown in my post # 1124, slightly modified.
The lower bearings I intend to glue against the promenade deck L- rail that already is present for mounting the railing to. The upper double-bearings shall be fastened to the brass  framing of the boats deck....., reference is taken to enclosed scetch....
 
Nils
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
taping the deck for finding and marking (transfer to the sides) the correct davit positions, red markings
 
 

 
 

I have chosen to defer the second planking of the lower hull in favor of doing work on the interior. so far, this has involved adding view blocks behind the rear ports (as per the suggestion of Joe V), adding the quarterdeck bulkhead and adding waterway-margin planks on the main deck. 
 
The view blocks are simply black painted pieces glued in place to prevent viewing through the hull at the rear ports.
 
The quarterdeck bulkhead presented some uncomfortable decisions for me. The kit provides walnut pieces to support curved panels in slots precut in them. These kit pieces were virtually unusable in the manner intended. The kit also provides black decals to be applied to the curved panels. I didn't like the look. Joe V and Timmo had painted the decoration on the panels, in lieu of the black decals, and did it beautifully. My attempts at this didn't look so good. AOTS shows an alternative bulkhead consisting of plain planking .With this "official" sanction, my lack of artistic talent and the state of the kit pieces, I opted to do the alternative bulkhead. I planked it with beveled boxwood planks to make the curved surface and painted it red to match the bulwarks. A cowardly solution, perhaps, but better in my mind than something that I would have been totally unhappy with.
 
After completing that work, I penciled in lines on the sub-deck to mark out the deck beam lines for the deck planking joints, as shown on the AOTS deck plan.
 
The last item of work was to make the waterway-margin planks from holly sheet and strip.The kit plans do not show them, but they clearly appear in the AOTS drawings, which I chose to follow. The bow sections were cut from holly sheet, using card stock templates. The remainder were made using holly strip bent to shape.The waterway-margin planks were made from thicker stock than that to be used for the deck planking, and were sanded to provide a slanted profile from the bulwarks down to meet the planking height, as shown in AOTS.
 
Next will be the deck planking, which will also require that work be done on the mortar pits before the deck planking can be installed.
 
Bob

Nice & crisp, well done !

Nice & crisp, well done !

Nice & crisp, well done !

Continuing planking the deck, now near the stern.
 

 

 

Then i used a scraper on the deck to get it smooth.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

It's taken longer than I thought to get to this point.  I had a minor issue with wood that had defects unseen from the surface, but that goes with the territory and then also quite a bit going on in "life".   There will be another pause coming up for Janet's surgeries, but for the most part, that will just entail my keeping an eye on things during the recovery process.
 
The first drop is essentially finished except for some minor touch up (and the carvings...).  I've finessed it to fit the hull and the molding and it just needs a bit of touch up on the sweeping curve from top to bottom before gluing into place.  The other side is finessed into place and just needs the final shaping to get the curve and then any touch up work.
 
Once these are done, I'll post both sides and a stern shot. I'll need stern shot anyway for my records and to check for uniformity.
 
I won't be applying any finish for now until the wood has a chance to age and regain some of it's patina.  
 
Here's the photos...
 

 

Really impressive work, Patrick
 
I must admit that the Billing's version , is - in my opinion - the closest to the real thing
 
Keep up the good work !

After some time up north with family, it was back to work on Granado. I've done a few things: I added the stern post, cut from holly sheet; I planked the counter; and lastly, I planked the second layer of the wales. The counter and wales were done with boxwood strip. In doing the counter, I omitted using the kit base piece, as it seemed more trouble than useful, and used thicker planking material.
 
After the planking was done, I painted both the wales and counter black. While I carefully taped the top of the wales prior to painting (using Tamiya tape) I left the bottom untaped, since any paint will be covered by the lower holly planking to come. This accounts for the sloppy appearance and excess width of the wales in the attached photos.
 
I'm still deciding today whether to next do the lower planking or do some interior work.
 
Bob

Happy birthday and get back soon !

I knew it! I KNEW it!
  I knew I took pictures while taming the lions :-) Here is the addendum´s addendum.     Yes that thing in the right lower corner is my scalpel. Some more before-after shots.       XXXDAn