Barbossa

Finally have the port side done with painting and touch ups.. more touch ups, ad infinitum ad nauseum.  So here's two pics.  I've turned the hull around and started the yellow on the starboard side.   All things considered, I'm pretty pleased with the result so far.

I was keen this morning to see how Chuck’s magic looked on Sphinx.
I am not disappointed.

1763

1762
The arrangement will be enhanced once the decorative rails are applied top and bottom of the counters.

1768
Before the final pieces are applied I will lightly spray with artists fixative which may slightly change the colour.
I will need to create a paint mix close to the final tone for areas where background painting is required, but that’s a way ahead.
 
Thank you so much Chuck, what an asset you are to the ship modelling community. 👏
 
B.E.

... ( was interrupted) If I dare speaking so : the 1/64 scale is a very good compromise between size, difficulty, and detail

Today I worked on the quarter galleries. I still have a few other things to do before they get mounted, but I've been a little excited to get to them. Mostly because I was really impressed with the way @realworkingsailor crafted a more three dimensional version for his Pegasus Build and I couldn't wait to try it - with a bit of my own flair of course.
     I started by adding some additional dimension to the frieze and carvings. The Amati kit uses a couple different layers of photo etch to try to create carvings, but I felt I could add a little more - so I coated the photo etched pieces with yellow ochre, then I went through and carefully dabbed some areas with bits of yellow ochre acrylic and then let it dry.  Then I went through and air brushed a VERY light coat of white, then back over it with Vallejo's yellow ochre "air".  
 
 
 
 
 
  On to the quarter galleries themselves.  First step, mark out where they're going to be, then make room with the trim and drill out the space creating a cabin inside and paint it black. Next up, I cut out and shaped some balsa (just as Realworkingsailor did) to give dimension.  One of the most difficult and delicate parts of this operation was separating the window frames which are laser cut as one piece. I used a jeweler's saw with my thinnest blade and very gentle cutting.  Any little gaps are filled with "wonderfill" filler and then the whole thing is painted black and the photo etching is added.  I didn't take photos of that bit, but extra care is needed to bend the pieces to fit the now three dimensional gallery.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
    Now, my favorite part!  I finally figured out that the best way to shape my little microscope slide covers is to carefully hold them against the belt sander!  I marked the shape I needed with a sharpie, and the belt sander worked great.  It was fast enough not to shatter the piece and also half melted half sanded the glass into shape.  It was then glued in place using white glue that dries clear. I actually prefer fabric stitch glue here because it's tackier.  The galleries are just sitting in place for the moment and will be permanently mounted later.
 
 
 
 
 

 
  The glass is a bit of a pain obviously, but it looks really good.  I purposely took pictures with an angle where the light reflected so you can see it, but the photos don't really do it justice. Really clear straight on, then catches the light.  As I said, I picked up the tip from a guy on a train model forum and he was right: nothing looks quite like glass, like glass looks like glass.
   Next up - Starboard side.

Glad to have you back with us, Andy
Great build so far.
I'll pull up a chair.

Glad to have you back with us, Andy
Great build so far.
I'll pull up a chair.

Post Forty-eight
 
Gallery – Part Three
 At this point I have to attend to forming the Finishing piece.
Not an easy task I think with multiple angles and subtle curves. No comforting pre-worked piece from Chris here unless you include the blocky patterns that make up the piece.

On this detail from the  original Admiralty plans the finishing piece sits just forward of the wale end with the forward edge following the angle line of the Berthing.

1586
Gallery detail from the beautifully drawn plans by Chris Watton.

1601
Part 29 which is the top of the finishing piece is effectively the floor of the gallery so a frame is required to sit atop this to replace part 45a as the bottom fixing point for the Berthing pattern.
 
Confused yet? I know I am.🤔
 
A Boxwood frame is made to replace part 45a.

1591a
The frame is pinned and glued into place.
The block Finishing piece is held in place tight against the part 45a frame to ensure a good fit.
 
Shaping of the Finishing piece can now begin
A bit tricky deciding where to start with the shaping, and how to hold it during shaping.
As it happens I didn’t find it too difficult on either count.
 
The blurb indicates  leaving the back edge of the piece untapered, sanding the forward part to a fine edge.
The back edge needs to be bevelled downwards to follow the  aft edge concave curve of the wale.
 
I start by sanding the back edge of the piece to match the aft curve of the wale.
Fortunately the mdf is soft so is easy to form. The biggest danger is getting  too enthusiastic and take too much off or damage the shape.
 
Soft hands, small strokes, and constant fit checks are the order of the day.

1619(2)

1608(2)
Shaping in progress.
 
This is one of those tasks that is difficult to describe, but hopefully as you get into it you start to see the shape emerging and get an appreciation of where to go.

1634

1631

1627
The Finishing pieces are glued to the hull and frame 45a.
The final finishing of these pieces will be done once the  Berthing pattern is in place.
 
A seat of ease will now be added to the Portside gallery.
 
B.E.
06/12/21
 
 

Humidity seems stabilized and I've filling, sanding, checking, rinse and repeat seemingly forever.  But, the white is done. and coated with two coats of flat clear.   Needs a bit of touch up in a few places but that will wait until I'm done with the black just in case some gets pulled up with the tape removal.  I did notice some areas where the tape didn't fully seal and one where the tape dipped a bit low... I'll fix when I do touch ups.  So, I'm taking the rest of the day off to let everything sit and then attack the black wales and down to the waterline.   I'll probably do the blue on the gallery windows but I may hold off on that.
 

... ( was interrupted) If I dare speaking so : the 1/64 scale is a very good compromise between size, difficulty, and detail

Hello Dave,
 
Well at first sight we can not ignore the evolution in the (plastic) kit market. Many of us remember the Airfix standards : 1/72 when WW II planes were involved and 1/600 for HMS Hood, Bismarck, etc...At present  Trumpeter has the same ships on a 1/200 scale at our disposal, not to mention the 1/48 U-boat. Although 1/700 is still popular ( Aoshima, Fujimi, Revell,...) but many plastic ship brands  seem to stick to the 1/350 scale.
 
Worth mentioning : the PhotoEtch aftermarket.
 
Wooden ships: I don't know as many  (not all) Jean Boudriot monographs as well in the past as at present suggest a 1/48 scale. Be it in scratch building.
 
Another thing is the choice of your model : a big ship (the obvious HMS Victory) in a 1/90 scale or an elegant schooner or chebec ( Occre Cazador ) in 1/60?
Both are challenging : the line up of 3 impressive rows of guns or the extra detail a 1/60 and certainly a 1/48 scale might offer ?
Talking about gunnery : IMHO, the rigging of the guns is probably more realistic in  a large scale (1/48 => 1/64) and also more "doable" rather than in a1/90 or 1/100 scale. Sails ? Same story, I guess.
 
Are you planning to build several ships ? Working in the same scale can be an advantage, but this is only me talking.
My conclusion ( if I da
 

Hello Dave,
 
Well at first sight we can not ignore the evolution in the (plastic) kit market. Many of us remember the Airfix standards : 1/72 when WW II planes were involved and 1/600 for HMS Hood, Bismarck, etc...At present  Trumpeter has the same ships on a 1/200 scale at our disposal, not to mention the 1/48 U-boat. Although 1/700 is still popular ( Aoshima, Fujimi, Revell,...) but many plastic ship brands  seem to stick to the 1/350 scale.
 
Worth mentioning : the PhotoEtch aftermarket.
 
Wooden ships: I don't know as many  (not all) Jean Boudriot monographs as well in the past as at present suggest a 1/48 scale. Be it in scratch building.
 
Another thing is the choice of your model : a big ship (the obvious HMS Victory) in a 1/90 scale or an elegant schooner or chebec ( Occre Cazador ) in 1/60?
Both are challenging : the line up of 3 impressive rows of guns or the extra detail a 1/60 and certainly a 1/48 scale might offer ?
Talking about gunnery : IMHO, the rigging of the guns is probably more realistic in  a large scale (1/48 => 1/64) and also more "doable" rather than in a1/90 or 1/100 scale. Sails ? Same story, I guess.
 
Are you planning to build several ships ? Working in the same scale can be an advantage, but this is only me talking.
My conclusion ( if I da
 

Post Forty-seven
 
Gallery -Part Two
I have replaced  the middle  gallery pattern (Part45) with a replacement Boxwood Frame.

1528
The lower pattern (45a) and its lower slot sits too high to represent what would be the floor of the gallery so this too will need modification at some point.
 
The problem is compounded by the later insertion of another filler piece (45c) between the middle and lower parts 45 and 45a which would block off the gallery opening  below the window level.
Parts 45c and 45a provide the formers against which the berthing pattern (159) is glued below the window pattern.
 
I concluded the issue could be resolved by doubling the depth of the middle frame to incorporate what would be part 45c.
A frame was cut to match  Part 45c which was glued to  Frame 45.

1561
The  combination frames pinned into place.

1565
The part 45a as shown here will not be fitted.

1573
Before fitting, the frames will require bevelling to suit the fit of the Gallery window pattern and Berthing pattern.

1570
To create a gallery in this style effectively means working from middle/bottom up rather than middle/top down as per the kit instructions.
 
Fitting a seat of ease is required to be done before I fit the gallery window pieces and gallery top, but after the finishing piece is installed, as this will provide the floor. Any painting/varnishing of the gallery interior will also need to be done at this point.
The finishing piece comprises  four parts (29,45b,46)

1580
To assemble the finishing piece I used double sided tape to secure part 29 to the hull, it effectively runs along the top of the Black strake below part 45a the slot for which can be seen.
The other parts were  glued to part 29 insitu on the hull. The lowest part of the finishing piece follows the angle as indicated by the yellow tape.

1558(2)
Finishing piece assembly, Starboard side.
Note the angle of the two lower pieces(46) of this assembly.
 Shaping and fitting these will be the next task.
 
B.E.
04/12/21
 

From a life standpoint, my sister and I have made tremendous strides in sorting out our father’s affairs, and our current biggest hurdle is getting approval from his long-term care insurer for assisted living.  Steadily, we are getting there, and I appreciate those who have asked, just as I appreciate everyone who comes to visit me here.
 
I have managed to sneak-in a few hours, here and there, and I have completed all of the port side buttressing knees of the channels, and I got everything nicely re-painted and pretty.  In general, lowering the channels pretty dramatically changes the whole aspect of the model, and the difference is pleasing to me:
 

 

 

 
The mizzen channel knees were challenging to cope over mouldings and around the fleurs, but I am happy to have lowered them to here, where there is less interference with the frieze:
 

 
I am using this portrait of the DR, circa 1680, as justification for this placement:
 

 
I continue to comb through the archives, but I have yet to find anything vividly descriptive about the ship’s pre-refit external appearance.  Despite the beautifully florid cursive, I’ve come to realize the hard truth that the letter writers and record keepers of 17th C. France were basically clerks.  Mostly their correspondence has to do with SR’s comings and goings; armaments and dis-armements;  payments made/owed to painters and sculptors; cost estimates relating to her refit, etc.  It is all fascinating, and it will all get its due mention in my book, but it does not help me paint the picture of the ship.
 
Where are the artists sharing their wonderfully descriptive observations, when you need them?!
 
What I’m hoping to find is something along the lines of this:
 

 
”The morning fires shone brightly upon the gilded ornaments of Soleil Royal and her heights rose up and became one with the azure sky.  The warrior of the Americas clung resolutely to the port side, while that of Africa peered off in the middle-distance - daring his lesser adversaries to emerge from the morning mist.  Presiding above, with shimmering rays of gold and silver gilt bursting past his golden chariot is the Sun King, himself…”
 
And, so forth.  It must be out there, somewhere, right?
 
Anyway, I can now get busy with fitting and prepping the starboard upper bulwark for paint.  I can also go ahead and design my stove - that will make a nice little side project.  Before long, I can design and make the next tier of stern lights, which will enable me to finish off the wrapping stern walk.
 
As always, thank you for your likes, comments and for looking-in.  More to come!

Continuation 3/3.
 
That's all folks !

About time for an update, progress is slower compared to kit building ( those were the days...)
 
First of all  I'd sincerely wish to thank all members who replied to my topic "3D drawings 18pdr at 1/64 scale", posted last Februari 11. Among those generous offers, one in particular caught my attention as it exempted me from the necessary drawingwork as well as the production of the guns  itself. The final acquisition was the result of old fashion interchange. I can assure, guns are state of the art.
 
Aside from modelingmatters I find it very pleasing to chat with a fellow- MSW-member regarding other subjects and life in general. We agreed about the life-necessity of chocolate .  For the interested in 3D expertise: please contact "puckotred".
Regarding the painting :
- overall : AV RAL 7021, Black Grey 70.862.
- edges and reinforcement rings were covered with AV 70.863 Gun Metal.
Although the pics may not show, the effect is very pleasing to the eye.
A modest attempt to scratchbuild the ship's stove is also included in this post ( + continuation )

Hello,
 
Just a small update: still working on the stern + some preparations related to quarterdeck galleries, but that's for later.
The lower decoration strip is brass (no scratch building involved here). Purchased this item by Cornwall Boats.
Other strips are more or less selfmade. It's a combination of 2 styrene-strips : one halfround 1,5 mm glued upon 1x3 mm strip.
Rather than wood, just felt more comfortable with this option. One disadvantage : cyano-glue is mandatory if you want to fix styrene items. It can be messy.
Next step : deck planking, perhaps ?
Don't you worry about planking under the waterline : this area is to be covered with copper tiles anyway.
Cheers, and a coronafree X-mas  to you all.

Hi,
 
At last some progress.
Mark, your remark refering to the stern shifted priorities.
As the stern at both extremities dictates the position of the quarterdeckgalleries, why not seize the stern gallery?
 
Well, after quite some trouble, hesitation, different approaches, here it is.
Still some finishing required, not perfect and most of all, not by the book but I an settle with it.
 
 
 

... ( was interrupted) If I dare speaking so : the 1/64 scale is a very good compromise between size, difficulty, and detail

Hello Dave,
 
Well at first sight we can not ignore the evolution in the (plastic) kit market. Many of us remember the Airfix standards : 1/72 when WW II planes were involved and 1/600 for HMS Hood, Bismarck, etc...At present  Trumpeter has the same ships on a 1/200 scale at our disposal, not to mention the 1/48 U-boat. Although 1/700 is still popular ( Aoshima, Fujimi, Revell,...) but many plastic ship brands  seem to stick to the 1/350 scale.
 
Worth mentioning : the PhotoEtch aftermarket.
 
Wooden ships: I don't know as many  (not all) Jean Boudriot monographs as well in the past as at present suggest a 1/48 scale. Be it in scratch building.
 
Another thing is the choice of your model : a big ship (the obvious HMS Victory) in a 1/90 scale or an elegant schooner or chebec ( Occre Cazador ) in 1/60?
Both are challenging : the line up of 3 impressive rows of guns or the extra detail a 1/60 and certainly a 1/48 scale might offer ?
Talking about gunnery : IMHO, the rigging of the guns is probably more realistic in  a large scale (1/48 => 1/64) and also more "doable" rather than in a1/90 or 1/100 scale. Sails ? Same story, I guess.
 
Are you planning to build several ships ? Working in the same scale can be an advantage, but this is only me talking.
My conclusion ( if I da
 

Thank you Ron, I do have a suitable 1:64 scale figure  in mind for the role, a laser cut substitute part 45 would have been useful tho'.🙂
 
Post Forty-six
 
Modifying the Gallery
Time to clear the deck and get the scroll saw into position.

1488
The first trial to see how the mdf holds up.

1491
So far so good, the mdf has withstood the scroll blade without splitting.

1494
Final finishing is done gently by hand with sanding sticks.

1502
A trial fit.

1503
The forward end is drilled and pinned.

1506
Adding the other patterns which thankfully won’t need replacing.

1510
The line looks good to my eye.

1511
 
I think the modification is doable so I will try one cut from Boxwood sheet.
On any final piece, once it is in place the back and inner sides would be  fined down further.
 
Back to the scroll saw
 
B.E.
02/12/21

 
 

You're welcome Mark.
Thanks for all the likes.
 
Oops : only now I realize an error related to the update .
The correct reference of the AV Dark Grey color  ( which I found the most suitable for the "hinges-job" ) is definitely AV 70.994 Dark Grey and not AV 70.862 ( Black Grey ) as the 3rd pic on the first update erroneously suggests.

here's some final shots, that's all folks

Continuation 3/3.
 
That's all folks !

Continuation 2 of 3

Very nice work Christian.
Indeed, building scratch models takes a lot of time.