Thunder

Hi, think might of been better to remove the pins before applying filler. Going to make it difficult to sand.

I would have to agree with Chris. Out of the three i would say that the Endeavour would be the most difficult to plank and the Snake the easier. However, having built the Caldercraft Cruiser i would have to say that instructions are not great. The newer models from Vanguard will be exceptional.

Most modellers find their own way to rig ships that is comfortable to them but if you want it to look correct you need to do it as was done on the real ships as much as possible. This is because the rigging was put over the head of a mast in a certain order. Below is the order i complete my rigging. What i will do, however, is plan each item ahead so as to install rigging blocks when more accessible. If you don't you will not get your fingers in to tie them off.

I Cannot believe this is a first build, absolutely great job. Wish I had seen it earlier so could follow from the start.

Votive models were built, usually by one of a crew from a real ship, and hung in churches to give luck to their ship whilst at sea. They are not usually accurate as more symbolic.

I have tried rigging a ship without making a rigging plan, just using kit drawings, and always end up with a compromise some how. Usually I construct a rigging plan, this is done in conjunction with James Lee's, but the sequence is taken from Noel C L Hackney's guide to modelling the HMS Victory. I will create my own belaying plan at the same time. The reason i do all this is because I have often built kits that have no rigging instructions at all. The reason it works so well is because as i research a stage of running rigging i identify the belay and any blocks and can look back into the standing rigging stage and best chose when to install. A good example would be Fore topsail brace blocks, they can not be installed before starting rigging as need to go on the main stay, but if didn't make a plan am likely to forget. Then when coming to rig can't get my fingers in.

I am afraid i disagree with the procedure by Darryl, with regards to rigging the fore stays before the shrouds as this would have them set up differently round the head of the mast to actual practice. I do agree, however, that they are important to get the overall tensioning correct. For this reason, on smaller scales or plastic kits, i set up temporary forestays to counteract the stresses caused by the shrouds and then remove these when the correctly rigged stays are completed.

if it helps, i have a word file, which gives the order of dressing the masts and yards, it is my method taken from a modelling guide that i have used for many kits. I adapt it for each kit, dependant on historic period of build, happy to send you this if PM me with your email address.

So glad I have caught up with this build / prototype kit. For some time this has been my favourite vessel and have got in my copies of the books ready to be my first scratch build. Only problem now is that I have a lot of catching up to do reading your log.

Hi Chuck,

Over here in the UK most fishing line is nylon or fluorocarbon, is that what you are using? Only ask as in the United States a lot of Braid line is used.

Cheers.

This is an excellent build that I have been lucky to find as will be invaluable assistance for a future build of the 'Indiscret' by aeropiccola which I have on my shelf.

Hope you do not mind me following.

On 12/23/2022 at 1:48 PM, kruginmi said:

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays from a cold, snow swept Michigan!

Love the job you are doing on Jylland but have to ask what the model is the case?

One on its own is outstanding but how do you describe 12 and all almost identical. Truly magnificent.

2 hours ago, Guyuti said:

All,

 

I asked the owner / seller of the item what plug and voltage it says on the Box his reply was:-

"Hi, it does have a European plug and it says 220 volts on the box"

 

Guy

Hi, get him to check the iron itself to be sure.

The BS1363 plug with the square pins replaced the round in the 1950's. As i said only shaving socket have a round pin and that is because they are for use in a special location (bath room) using a SELV supply. You can buy an adaptor to use outside of the bathroom but they are low rated in current and would not supply an iron.

Can you please stop saying 220V as it is 230V and you are bordering on the tolerances for damage to electronic equipment (216V) in the UK.

Am i looking at a different item, what's with all  the wires that i cannot see. This shows a Europeon 110V class2, double insulated (no earth) portable device with a moulded unfused plug. 

Also these are great but that part you have to slide the plank under gets hot and its a real pain inserting the plank under it to start the process. You need three hands.

British Voltage is rated at 230V but if measured is generally 240 -245. That is not a BS1363 plug. At a push you may be able to get it in a shaver socket. You can still get 5A round pin sockets for lighting circuits but have not generally seen round pin sockets in domestic wiring since the 1960's. In industry you get round pin commando 230V Sockets but these still have an earth pin so could not use one of these.

Of course, could use an adaptor but it is highly likely this would be a 110V device and so you will find it won't last long. 

Your choice not to trust what I say but after 30 years in electrical industry and the last 10 of this as a Senior Electrical Engineer I would hope I have some idea.

Make sure you confirm voltage is 230V as it has a euro style plug on it.

Received the second volume of the Speedwell for my birthday this week. Not had time to study yet but these two books look to me to be great resource for general model building techniques and not just to build the Speedwell.

My wife has indicated no problem with postage cost to UK.

On 5/26/2022 at 11:11 AM, Vane said:

I know that some people prefer the supersteady plywood construction but once I started to figure out the MDF construction on my Speedy I was hooked on this. Everything gets directly in the right position, no measuring and fitting etc. Its like building Lego. And the best thing of it all, sanding is like melting butter. Later I started working on my Diana plywood hull (also Chris construction, but over 20 years ago) and it was a b*tch in comparison. Tweeking, measuring, bending and I dont think its completly straight. And because the bulkheads were so far apart sanding is really heavy and it even creates that kind of scratchnoise like Quints nails on the blackboard.... 

And from an enginering point of view, I just luv seeing all of the hundreds of MDF pieces going together and suddenly forms the Indy hull! 🙂 Keep it up, james!       

Hi Vane,

So true regarding Diana, I have just got to this stage and had three attempts adding wood to the ply frames before being reasonably happy and then drove the wife mad when sanding with the noise like drawing your finger nails down a chalk board, a bit like in the jaws film. 

Hi Vane,

Was wondering how you are getting on with the stern gallery? That part of your build is at the same stage as mine and i am having real difficulties lining everything up. I have come to the conclusion that it is a fault with bulkhead 17 and that it is set too high. Unfortunately this not only effects the stern gallery but also effects everything at the stern including the quarter galleries, wale, planking of the stern etc. I believe everything is 4mm too high.

Hi,

Just looked into this build for the first time. You have done a great job so far. I had this kit many moons ago but sold it on due to its accuracy. Starting to think i get too hung up on the final result being as historically accurate as possible and so taking the fun out of the build. After all my favourite build was Corel's Resolution which i did just build from the box only modifying the rigging.

The Unicorn is an interesting ship with its beakhead bow and two light quarter galleries, features that are accurate to the original. Sometimes wish i had kept hold of her. I myself had found an old second hand kit quite cheaply (not £15.00 though).

Hello Popash42,

Nice to see one of the less common models being built here rather than the usual that everyone seems to be following. Your first planking looks to be coming on well and to a good standard, look forward to seeing this develop. 

Hi, don't know if helps but in the Anatomy of the ship book the diameter at the deck level is 6mm. Scale of book is 1/8" to the foot. My maths may be out but i get this as 9mm at 1:64 scale.

You must have come up against someone poisoned with jealousy. I myself am completely jealous of your skills but would rather use your work for inspiration and to educate me in better ways to perform a task. I will be reviewing your build from the start and take great pleasure from learning from it.

Great subject and great build.

The main reason there is no trades in the UK, other than those due to retire, is that no one has been going into apprenticeships. For the last three generations parents have pushed everyone to have a degree. To make it worse they made the apprenticeships easier so that those who could not get it at uni could do it. Most of our young trades persons are lacking in knowledge. The colleges can't train them so us, older Engineers, are having to do it in house.