Captain Poison

Making the Chain Pumps...
 
As mentioned all of the wood parts are laser cut from boxwood.  You will get all the parts for the port side on one sheet and the starboard on another.  So just build one at a time.  The first part that needs our attention is the 7/32" thick core.
 
Step one-
 
Sand the laser char from all of the edges.   Take your time and keep the edges straight.   Dont bother sanding the front or back face as these will be covered up.  They will remain nice and flat if you dont touch them.  In addition....dont clean the char from the bottom of the piece.  Keep that flat as well.  But all of the edges including those two pump tubes at the bottom should be clean of char.  You can see one core that has not been cleaned of char yet.  Note the arrow...this will be important.
 

 
REALLY IMPORTANT:  For this mini kit you will see me call only for certain areas to be sanded free of laser char.  This is important for many reasons.   It has to do with the build sequence and keeping the parts properly sized and shaped.   Keep that in mind when you read through this and dont jump ahead and clean off all the char on every piece.  I will let you know when you can do so.  The results will be much better.
 
STEP 2 - 
 
Glue the bottom base of the pump into position.  Note that the extended, curved side is on the end of the pump where the arrow points.  Also note that I have NOT cleaned the char off of any of the edges yet.  That will come later.  But if you want...you can sand the top surface clean before gluing it in position.  
 

STEP 3 ...Glue the larger side panels onto the core.  Sit the bottom edge of these side pieces right down on the base.  Dont sand the char from the edges yet.  Make sure the arrows are pointing in the right direction.   They follow the arrow on the core.  The important thing with this step is to line up the center hole for the crank shaft.  That is crucial.
 
Because these layers are so thin they will bend and warp with titebond.   I used titebond so I can slide these pieces into position.  One side layer at a time.  Use clamps to prevent the layer warping....trust me it will lift up if you dont clamp it.  It is slightly over-sized all around except the bottom edge.  Just line up that hole!!
 

After both first layers are in position you can sand the char from certain edges.  Allow me to explain.  The photo below shows the sides sanded FLUSH with the core and clean from char.   But leave the rounded edges of the top and dont sand that at all.   But the little edges on either side should be sanded flush with the top of the core.  Note the back edge of the floor or base is now sanded as well as the back side is all flush with the core.
 
In that same photo you can see the next layer added to the back face of the pump.  This is there to show you why you must sand the ends flush with that first layer in position.  This next outer layer wont be flush and you will never get clean and neat otherwise.
 

The same is true for the other side....Note  how the first layer you put on is sanded flush with the edge of the core.  AND the top is also sanded flush but the rounded section is left alone.  Dont remove the char on that.  You want the rounded hood to be perfectly shaped.  Leave the char on it.  This is important again because the next layer will extend forward.  You can see it also added in the photo below.
 
You can also see that the floor or base is still not cleaned of char except for that one side which is all flush with the core.

STEP 4...
 
That next layer you saw in the previous photos can now be glued on the model.  But you should absolutely clean the char from edges of these before you do so.  Clean the edges before gluing.
 
  But as you can see....only clean the side edges and the top edge.   But leave the clamp in the center with the shaft hole alone.  Dont bother cleaning the char from the edges.  It is fragile and leaving it as is will look great.  Dont sand the bottom edge either because then the hole wont line up with the other layers. It will sit too low.   You can see how the back end of the pump is all flush....but this last layer will extend forward on the other side.   Start with the layer showing the cut-out for the plug first.  That should help you get alignment correct.
 
You can see the other sides layer ready for gluing.....all the edges you need to clean are sanded nicely.
 
STEP 5...I think...
 

As the photo above shows....now you can sand the edges of the base all around to clean up the char.   The front and back edges are sanded flush....nice and clean.
 
The extended side of the floor is also finally sanded clean.  Its starting to look like a chain pump now.  Now the fun parts...just a few little details to add.
 
STEP 6...
 
In this step you will be adding the two legs.  The fancy legs are cleaned of char and glued to the bottom side of the base.  Just remember to put it on the correct side.  One side is longer because of the mast partners.   The fancy legs go on the side shown.  Then do the other side which is sanded flush all around.  You can also glue the drain plug into position.  I left the char in place as it looks good that way.  It will stand proud of the chain pump box.
 
Then there are two long skinny pieces that are glued on the inside where the outside layers extend beyond the core.  You can see them on the chain pump plans.   Just clean them up and glue them on.  
 


 
Step 7...in that same photo you can see that the round hood for the chain pump has many thin boards that need to be glued in position.   This isnt difficult but they are small pieces.   You should bevel the edges slightly so they fit tightly.  If you dont bevel the edges the seams between each plank will be too wide.  I just lightly sanded a bevel by eye.  No need to measure and obsess about the angles.
 
Now if you are afraid the math wont work out and when you get to the other side you will be left with a space....fear not.  I also included two wider planks just for this occasion.  When you get close to planking the whole top of the hood....test a few dry fit planks to see how much space needs to be filled.  I did this when I had four remaining planks to add.   Turns out I only needed to adjust and use one wider plank.  You cant even notice it.  Sand the sides of the hood flush so its nice and neat when they are all added.  They are initially just a hair longer than needed.
 
To finish up the chain pumps....add a tiny length of 28 gauge black wire for the drain plug handle.   The add the tongue.  Thats the long metal piece on the front end of the pump.  I used a small length of 1/32" x 1/64" brass strip.  Just bend the end and round them off.  I blackened it and glued it in position.
 
Apply a coat of Wipe on Poly to bring out the nail patterns and you are good to go!!!!

Thanks
 
I am going to add the handle for the plug and the tongue.  The tongue is the iron flat strap thing on the plan that sticks up on the one side.
 
I imagine the next big piece will be the stove....that is in chapter 8.
 

 
 

Chapter 3 has officially begun.  It took awhile to get the transom lined up properly and marked out, and then about 3 tries to glue it up so everything is aligned.  They aren't very visible, but I drew some key marks in the outside, lower corners of the outermost windows that were my primary marks when I went to glue it up.  

 
I also put a tiny mark on each side of the transom where it touched the hull, plus (not visible) one underneath the transom at the center and each edge.  I made sure to glue sparingly as I (correctly) anticipated that it was probably going to take a couple tries to get all the mark lined up and clamped.

 
One thing that I'm trying to sort out is that I have a small gap between where the transom ends and the upper counter begins.  I realize there's going to be a bit of fancy molding covering this, so the least invasive fix would be to put a small filler piece in here. but not sure if that would affect the molding placement or if the best solution is to smooth out the knuckles/counter to meet the transom.  
 

 
On the subject of molding, I've never scraped fancy molding before, but it seems fairly straightforward.  Is there a particular pattern that would have been used or is this a creative moment?
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Getting back to the Winnie....I have been designing and tweaking the mini-kit for the chain pumps.   I think I have it where I want it now.
 
This mini-kit is all boxwood.  Every part of the this pump is laser cut.  The nail details are laser etched.  These were a challenge because they are the smallest nails I have simulated with the laser.   It took plenty of attempts before I got it right.  This is the Starboard side chain pump.   When I make the other I will take pictures at every step.  But I thought I would share my efforts.  This is actually the very first time I have built one of these as no models I have ever made showed them.   So it was a treat.  Greg Herbert's chain pumps were the inspiration for these.  There are still some details that could be added if you wanted to....I think you will like making these.  I still have to add the handle for the plug.  Compare the detail with any other chain pump made for a kit.   I really tried hard to make it look as detailed as any scratch effort but with everything laser cut.
 
I will also be making these in 3/16" scale and offering them as stand alone mini-kits in both scales.    But these will come as part of chapter 7 so no need to buy the mini-kit when you see it posted..
 
Chuck
 

The gallows are now completed....they are basically the same as the main jeer bitts.  The uprights are a little shorter to accommodate the top of the gallows which has that shape you are all familiar with.  The height of the gallows is equal to the top of the breast beam.  It is also  only temporarily in position.   I will be starting to build the chain pumps next which will allow me the ability to tweak all of their positions to align the crank handles and permanently install them.  You can see I removed that second beam as it will only make tweaking all their positions trickier.   That was just resting on the deck clamp as well.  Any questions.
 

Thanks guys.
 
This is where you will start to notice a difference between the contemporary model.  The bitts and gallows for example are very different.  This is done to accommodate the chain pumps.  They will both have their uprights farther apart in order to place the crank handles for the chain pumps.  The orientation for the jeer bitts is also changed to make more room for the pumps.  
 
It will really start looking interesting once I
finish the gallows and chain pumps.

I have finally finished. A long learning process, new techniques, mistakes and new friends. I thank my teacher Hugo Lizama infinitely for all his advice and unconditional support. Thank you my friends, we will see you in the HMS Winchelsea project and yes, the HMS Triton deserved to be finished.
 

Update
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Update
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Moving right along.....or forward so to speak
 
You saw me build the capstan and I am using the red one....all I had to do was really make the two pawls.  I just used a strip of 3/64 x 3/64 boxwood.  I cut them to length.....shaped them as shown.   The arse end being rounded off.  I drilled a hole through that end so I could insert some black fishing line to simulate the bolt or pin on the pawl.  Painted them black with some weathering powder and glued them on.  Notice how I sanded the back of each pawl thinner so the part that engages the capstan is thicker.  Dont mind all the dust!!!

 
Then I continued forward adding beams ....lodging knees and hanging knees...
 
UNTIL I reached the area you see below.   The beam is permanently installed.  But the two columns are not.   These are just temporarily positioned.  Do not glue these two columns in yet.   Note how they were morticed into the coaming.   These two columns will need to be lined up perfectly with the Main jeer bits......and gallows.  The crank handle for the chain pumps will run through all of these elements and the need to be positioned only after the chain pumps are made.   That will come soon.   So just position them like this without glue.   

 
 
In fact....the next two (the last two) deck beams wont be added permanently yet either.   They will not be glued into position until after we have the chain pumps all finished and those crank handles installed.  But you will be testing with them while you build those elements...
 
For example....time to make the Main jeer bitts.   These actually sit directly under the forward most deck beam or breast beam.
 
They are laser cut and just like the columns, the uprights are etched on both sides for reference.   These are boxwood as well.   You will notice some heavy char on the sides of these because they are very thick at 3/16" thick.   Rather than just sand or file off the char from the sides of these, I scraped the char off first.   I used a number 11 blade.  That should remove most of it so whatever remains can be cleanly and easily sanded away.   Boxwood in this thickness requires much more laser power to cut through and thus more charring.   
 
Notice how the front and back of the uprights are flat without any dimension.  You have etched reference lines but you must still use some blades, chisels, files or whatever you are comfortable with....to mimic the profile laser cut on both sides.    These take some time to shape and do properly but they arent difficult.   As you can see they clean up beautifully and make some really nice jeer bits.  The two sheaves are all laser cut for you on both sides.....how nice is that???  You could round off the sheaves if you like for extra credit.
 

The jeer bitts were painted red and positioned beneath the Breast beam or that first qdeck beam.    Nothing is glued in yet....these are just tests in preparation for completing the chain pumps.  It rests right against the coaming behind it.   The cross beam is on the aft side.  But I will mention....
 
This is important,  the Breast beam is actually wider than all of the other deck beams.   Its 3/16" wide.   In addition, you must scrape a decorative molding and glue it the fore side of this beam.   The molding was scraped from a 3/32" x 1/32" boxwood strip.  Deck planking and margin planks will over hang this breast beam and look very nice.  I dont know if you can see or make out the molding on the beam.   But the jeer bitts are tested under it.   It is starting to look good now that more fittings are being added.   Next up the gallows which is almost the same as the jeer bitts but has a fancy top.  It is positioned just forward of the main mast.  Thats next!!!

A little farther away to see more of the hull at this stage....remember those two remaining deck beams are NOT glued in yet......
 

And farther away still as the fittings continue to be added...

 
 
 

Ship' double wheel:
Some are from a Go pro camera. It is possible to correct image distorsion and other characteristics in LIghtroom which has the profile of many camera  and lens.

Hello,
Dowmer, here is the second and last lesson: how to carve scrolls 😉
The left is ready and the other prepared for finial carving
 

 
And here they are build in. The varnish and glue are not already dry, so I have to correct may be this and that tomorrow. 
If you look at the yellow part of the hull, it's fascinating how much of the planking you could see, even when there are now 4 layers of paint on it. 
 

After what seems like forever, I've finally finished making up the guns. I'm seeing eyebolts and ringbolts in my dreams. Now it's on to the gun rigging.
 
Bob

I thought it might be a good time to get this post in as it covers a number of tasks that I've been working on.
 
Starting with the gun port lids.
 

The first step was to get these two planks fitting correctly
 

The last plank is placed underneath so that the bottom edge can be traced
 

The final result with all three planks in place
 

When adding the frieze, the top section is cut away so it can be registered with the frieze below.
 

Final result with lid lining attached, painted and ready for hinge
 
Pinned cleats to the bulwarks.

 
Transom windows and sills 

 

 
Mike

Yesterday we went out to the reconstruction to put her into the water after the winter storage on land. This is what we where met by:

Last year we discovered some rotten planks in such a bad shape that we could not dare to sail at all. We had contracted these ship builders to make the basic renovation needed to keep her afloat. Unfortunately they had been delayed at another job, and where not finished at the scheduled day. A few rushed hours later we managed to get her into water:

20210501_124826.mp4  
 

Good morning and thank you all, there are many things I don't know how to do Hoving, I always try to do the best I can.
More photos of the decorations.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto.

Few extra pics of the engine and rudder controls before I cover them up...

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 

Rudder and prop
I have this reference of Orca' prop and rudder thanks to jlt13th...
 

 
Three bladed left-handed prop, and a welded rudder on a shaft, where the bottom bearing is through a plate bolted to the keel and extending beyond the rear of the keel itself. It looks a bit fragile to me.
The figure gives a sense of scale, and proportion.
I was going to make the prop, but I don’t have a lathe or mill, and making it out of plastic would probably be hard to get right. So until I can face shelling out £20 for the right one, I have a four blade prop in place for the moment.
The rudder was probably made in house like this one..
 

 
...and fitted like this:
 

 
I am a very poor metalworker, but managed to cobble one together:
 

 
Rudder needs a sacrificial anode; the keel needs shortening, the keelson shaped, and things tidied up a little yet, but the proportions are getting there. 
 
 
 

Getting close to the end of Chapter 2 and I'm finding an extreme feeling of satisfaction tempered by a bit of sadness that the planking is almost done.  
 
First, the big oops on this belt.  Somehow missed the proper shift on both sides for the 2 planks in the belt closest to the keel.  Wasn't paying attention to my tick marks.  Regardless, they are not visible when then the ship is turned upright, so I decided not to pull them, but figured I'd call it out as it's noticeable in pictures.

 
I've been working my way back, sanding and applying WOP as I go.  

 
By luck it worked out that the final planking at the stern is book-ended with short planks.

 
3 planks left to go on each side...I've decided to alternate, so the final plank will be the middle one.  My concern up to this point was that my stern planks weren't rising to the tick marks and I was going to need a stealer, but it looks like the final 3 planks will just squeeze in without needing to get creative. 

 
Just a few more planks to go...I'm thinking Saturday will be time to break out the Scotch.

 
 

I used the pictures from McKay for the stern. You already have those I believe.
Hahn's stern has fewer if I recall correctly. Your boat is looking good.

How much will you charge for the patterns you made for bounty stern? I am having a real problem trying to figure it out. Can you help me with this I am using Hahn’s plans
my email is.   here are some pics of what I have done please pm me as i REALLY NEED HELP WITH THIS...this is first time i have undertaken a project this big.
 

For the processing of the forestay pommel I built this tool:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

I wanted to try that beautiful ligature seen on Hermione: