Captain Poison

Update
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Moving right along.....or forward so to speak
 
You saw me build the capstan and I am using the red one....all I had to do was really make the two pawls.  I just used a strip of 3/64 x 3/64 boxwood.  I cut them to length.....shaped them as shown.   The arse end being rounded off.  I drilled a hole through that end so I could insert some black fishing line to simulate the bolt or pin on the pawl.  Painted them black with some weathering powder and glued them on.  Notice how I sanded the back of each pawl thinner so the part that engages the capstan is thicker.  Dont mind all the dust!!!

 
Then I continued forward adding beams ....lodging knees and hanging knees...
 
UNTIL I reached the area you see below.   The beam is permanently installed.  But the two columns are not.   These are just temporarily positioned.  Do not glue these two columns in yet.   Note how they were morticed into the coaming.   These two columns will need to be lined up perfectly with the Main jeer bits......and gallows.  The crank handle for the chain pumps will run through all of these elements and the need to be positioned only after the chain pumps are made.   That will come soon.   So just position them like this without glue.   

 
 
In fact....the next two (the last two) deck beams wont be added permanently yet either.   They will not be glued into position until after we have the chain pumps all finished and those crank handles installed.  But you will be testing with them while you build those elements...
 
For example....time to make the Main jeer bitts.   These actually sit directly under the forward most deck beam or breast beam.
 
They are laser cut and just like the columns, the uprights are etched on both sides for reference.   These are boxwood as well.   You will notice some heavy char on the sides of these because they are very thick at 3/16" thick.   Rather than just sand or file off the char from the sides of these, I scraped the char off first.   I used a number 11 blade.  That should remove most of it so whatever remains can be cleanly and easily sanded away.   Boxwood in this thickness requires much more laser power to cut through and thus more charring.   
 
Notice how the front and back of the uprights are flat without any dimension.  You have etched reference lines but you must still use some blades, chisels, files or whatever you are comfortable with....to mimic the profile laser cut on both sides.    These take some time to shape and do properly but they arent difficult.   As you can see they clean up beautifully and make some really nice jeer bits.  The two sheaves are all laser cut for you on both sides.....how nice is that???  You could round off the sheaves if you like for extra credit.
 

The jeer bitts were painted red and positioned beneath the Breast beam or that first qdeck beam.    Nothing is glued in yet....these are just tests in preparation for completing the chain pumps.  It rests right against the coaming behind it.   The cross beam is on the aft side.  But I will mention....
 
This is important,  the Breast beam is actually wider than all of the other deck beams.   Its 3/16" wide.   In addition, you must scrape a decorative molding and glue it the fore side of this beam.   The molding was scraped from a 3/32" x 1/32" boxwood strip.  Deck planking and margin planks will over hang this breast beam and look very nice.  I dont know if you can see or make out the molding on the beam.   But the jeer bitts are tested under it.   It is starting to look good now that more fittings are being added.   Next up the gallows which is almost the same as the jeer bitts but has a fancy top.  It is positioned just forward of the main mast.  Thats next!!!

A little farther away to see more of the hull at this stage....remember those two remaining deck beams are NOT glued in yet......
 

And farther away still as the fittings continue to be added...

 
 
 

Ship' double wheel:
Some are from a Go pro camera. It is possible to correct image distorsion and other characteristics in LIghtroom which has the profile of many camera  and lens.

Hello,
Dowmer, here is the second and last lesson: how to carve scrolls 😉
The left is ready and the other prepared for finial carving
 

 
And here they are build in. The varnish and glue are not already dry, so I have to correct may be this and that tomorrow. 
If you look at the yellow part of the hull, it's fascinating how much of the planking you could see, even when there are now 4 layers of paint on it. 
 

After what seems like forever, I've finally finished making up the guns. I'm seeing eyebolts and ringbolts in my dreams. Now it's on to the gun rigging.
 
Bob

I thought it might be a good time to get this post in as it covers a number of tasks that I've been working on.
 
Starting with the gun port lids.
 

The first step was to get these two planks fitting correctly
 

The last plank is placed underneath so that the bottom edge can be traced
 

The final result with all three planks in place
 

When adding the frieze, the top section is cut away so it can be registered with the frieze below.
 

Final result with lid lining attached, painted and ready for hinge
 
Pinned cleats to the bulwarks.

 
Transom windows and sills 

 

 
Mike

Yesterday we went out to the reconstruction to put her into the water after the winter storage on land. This is what we where met by:

Last year we discovered some rotten planks in such a bad shape that we could not dare to sail at all. We had contracted these ship builders to make the basic renovation needed to keep her afloat. Unfortunately they had been delayed at another job, and where not finished at the scheduled day. A few rushed hours later we managed to get her into water:

20210501_124826.mp4  
 

Good morning and thank you all, there are many things I don't know how to do Hoving, I always try to do the best I can.
More photos of the decorations.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto.

Few extra pics of the engine and rudder controls before I cover them up...

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 

Rudder and prop
I have this reference of Orca' prop and rudder thanks to jlt13th...
 

 
Three bladed left-handed prop, and a welded rudder on a shaft, where the bottom bearing is through a plate bolted to the keel and extending beyond the rear of the keel itself. It looks a bit fragile to me.
The figure gives a sense of scale, and proportion.
I was going to make the prop, but I don’t have a lathe or mill, and making it out of plastic would probably be hard to get right. So until I can face shelling out £20 for the right one, I have a four blade prop in place for the moment.
The rudder was probably made in house like this one..
 

 
...and fitted like this:
 

 
I am a very poor metalworker, but managed to cobble one together:
 

 
Rudder needs a sacrificial anode; the keel needs shortening, the keelson shaped, and things tidied up a little yet, but the proportions are getting there. 
 
 
 

Getting close to the end of Chapter 2 and I'm finding an extreme feeling of satisfaction tempered by a bit of sadness that the planking is almost done.  
 
First, the big oops on this belt.  Somehow missed the proper shift on both sides for the 2 planks in the belt closest to the keel.  Wasn't paying attention to my tick marks.  Regardless, they are not visible when then the ship is turned upright, so I decided not to pull them, but figured I'd call it out as it's noticeable in pictures.

 
I've been working my way back, sanding and applying WOP as I go.  

 
By luck it worked out that the final planking at the stern is book-ended with short planks.

 
3 planks left to go on each side...I've decided to alternate, so the final plank will be the middle one.  My concern up to this point was that my stern planks weren't rising to the tick marks and I was going to need a stealer, but it looks like the final 3 planks will just squeeze in without needing to get creative. 

 
Just a few more planks to go...I'm thinking Saturday will be time to break out the Scotch.

 
 

I used the pictures from McKay for the stern. You already have those I believe.
Hahn's stern has fewer if I recall correctly. Your boat is looking good.

How much will you charge for the patterns you made for bounty stern? I am having a real problem trying to figure it out. Can you help me with this I am using Hahn’s plans
my email is.   here are some pics of what I have done please pm me as i REALLY NEED HELP WITH THIS...this is first time i have undertaken a project this big.
 

For the processing of the forestay pommel I built this tool:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

I wanted to try that beautiful ligature seen on Hermione:

 

 

 

 

 
 

Good morning.

I havent done much more work on the deck fittings but I did manage to complete the base for the case...you probably saw that in the other topic.
 

But in addition to that and catching up with making blocks I managed to complete the templates for the quarter deck.  I am thinking and planning way far ahead.  I thought I would share them with you.
 
You guys know that I will be planking the quarter deck like the Amazon contemporary model.   
 

 
These templates will make the job much easier.  They contain all of the reference marks and locations for the Qdeck fittings, and even the deck planking.  You wont have to line off the qdeck or f'castle.  The deck planks are all worked out with the appropriate taper.   The deck beams are shown  so all you have to do is fold the template along any deck beam and you have an instant tick strip to transfer to each deck beam.
 
In addition, the carlings are all added in red so they can be added etc.  Its really a cheat sheet for positioning everything when we work on the Qdeck.
 

But thats not why I posted the pictures.  These will hopefully give you a really good idea well ahead of time of how much of the lower deck can be seen by going with this set-up.   There are only the bare minimum of qdeck planks added to accommodate the guns and deck fittings down the center.  This leaves very wide "runways" which are open and give you a really good look at the lower deck.   Its also much more balanced than planking half the qdeck in its entirety.   Note how we can leave the open area the entire length of the qdeck unlike other "lesser" kits that havent properly details the great cabin windows, etc.   The same will be true at the bow and f'castle as most commercial POB kits dont ever model the gun deck all the way up to the stem.   They usually have an ugly bulkhead that blocks most of the forward part of the gundeck and manger area.  This makes our Winnie project look a lot more correct and similar to an actual POF or contemporary admiralty model.
 


And one last fun photo under the qdeck......with so much open on the qdeck planking there is enough light getting down to the gundeck so you can see everything clearly.  I am also testing the height of that capstan which fits perfectly.....😄
 

Good morning and thank you all for the likes.
more photos.

 

 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto.

Daniel,
Thank you for your comment and sorry for not updating my building log.
 
Although I don't have enough time to write English text at this moment, I have been posting latest status of my building to Twitter with Japanese text. So appreciated if you are enjoying them till I add new post to this topic.
 
https://twitter.com/fake_johnbull/status/1386226116659007489
 
I have almost finished upperdeck arming and fittings.
 

Short Beams 'n Carlins.
 

 
 

 
 
Time to start framing out the superstructure and bulkheads.
Lower trunk cabin:
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 

 
Side decks dry fitted, and Pilot House frame started:

 

 

 

 
 
 
 

Post 59: Rigging the Jib Halyard
 
Fortunately Chuck supplies a traveler ring. Making one this good from scratch would be a challenge.
 

 
I decided to stabilize the ring with the out-hall and in-haul before attaching the halyard.  Obviously the ring was slid onto the bowsprit before it was installed but I had seized the out-haul onto the ring first.
 

 
The out-haul travels forward, through the sheave at the tip of the bowsprit and then back aft to belay on the bits at the bow.
 

 
The in=haul start with a "V" which is seized to the in-haul proper. 
 

 
The V piece is seized to either side of the the traveler ring.
 
This can be seen in this photo with the halyard block rigged
 

 
The halyard itself passes through a block on the mast cap and is belayed to one of the cleats at the base of the mast.
 

 
 
John
 
 
 
 
 
 

Good morning and thank you all for your likes, I will continue with more photos.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Un saluto.

Whew...big day today. The bow planking is complete.  156 planks down, 28 to go and (knock on wood) no tricky ones.  Sanded and applied a couple coats of WOP to protect the planking up to this point...Tape will go back on tomorrow
 
I chose the short plank to be the final one.  The port side was done first and I started continuing the 4th belt and planking away from the keel before alternating and planking from the 2nd belt towards it.  because there was more of a bend to each plank closer to the 2nd belt and I had used all my clamping space up, getting a good tight fit was very difficult.  Just enough spring left in the planks to cause difficulties with the old finger clamps.
  

 
On the starboard side, I switched the order and it was much easier.  

 
I'm pretty happy overall.  There are more than a few mistakes, but definitely the most symmetrical hull I've ever built.  The tick strips made all the difference in the world.  
 

 
Need to start thinking about building a cradle now.

Thank you Gary and Mark!
 
the after part is done:
 

 

 
Alex