Captain Poison

I was about to glue the column into position when I thought to check out a few more contemporary models.  I was browsing through "The Legacy of a Ship Model" by Rob Napier and most of the columns were red and I really liked the look.  The natural column got kind of lost which is probably why you see most them painted red or white (ivory).
 
So I decided to paint it red....long story short and I think it looks even better.  You at least now get to see it both ways and hopefully it will help you decide.
 

When it's time for me to make my rope, I'm going to purchase Chuck's rope making device.  He published a tutorial for it, and it looks like it would be very satisfying to use.
 
Alan

Hi All,
 
Recently someone took my inspiration, so I had some time off from my model 😆😆
Anyway, it came back so here's some update.
 
Standing rigging it's almost completed. Just futtock shrouds are missing.
I guess it's good time to start doing final tension adjustment...
 
All leechline and buntline blocks got their place on the shrouds.
Also, you can see crowfoot on mainstay (interesting piece of rigging, used as a preventer for sails to go under the top)
 
Enjoy the photos!
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
At that stage model looks like as below 
 

 

 

 
 
Cheers,
Matt

Hi All,
 
Another episode of ropes and accessories 😋
 
So currently I'm working on "upper level" of standing rigging like top shrouds and stays.
However, it's a good time to consider some other parts to install at that stage, so meanwhile I'm adding stuff like topmast rope and block or leechline and buntline blocks attached to the sides of main shroud eye.
It will be easier now and this way when there is some more space for fingers and not many ropes around.... later it might be 🤬🤬🤬
 
You can see also, that I've manage to do main yard halyard with one of the biggest block (ramshead) on this ship, hanging quite high above the deck 😏
Main yard is just test fitted and it will be removed.
 
Now it's time to jump to foremast top as it has similar "setup", but with just a little bit smaller rope diameter and blocks sizes.
Then last stay, which is fore topmast stay and somewhere in between futtock shrouds... and I will be ready to start with standing rigging tension adjustments and most likely fixing it in permanent position (hopefully 😳 )
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Cheers,
Matt

Hi All,
Thank you for your very generous likes guys!       
 
So another small update from me.
Now I can say that standing rigging on level 1 is done  
Time to slowly climb on upper level.
 
Foremast stay done
 

 

 
 
Gammoning also done.
 

 
 
Cheers,
Matt

Hi All,
 
This time... finally some rigging 🍻
 
Side tackle and garnet tackle.
For the time being garnet tackle pendant and guy will be removed as it will go over the shrouds.
Obviously running rigging is not yet fixed permanently. It will be necessary with shrouds and stays to do some tension adjustments.
 
Garnet tackle and side tackle were used for loading purposes and also for some heavy job on board... lifting of heavy ropes, cannons, etc...
When not in used side tackle were not rigged and garnet tackle pendant and guy were secured.
 
Next step... shrouds.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Cheers,
Matt

Thank you Michael! 🍻
 
Hi All,

Another small update.

Ropes, Blocks & Rock'n'Roll   😆

I've started with bowsprit. It's just easier to do it when is not attached due to quite few blocks as you can see... rather than moving whole model and for sure damaging something 

I'm just missing few stoppers for stropped blocks, which were protection for sliding on the bowsprit and can stay at the same time whole time.
 

 
Lower part of main mast also received deadeye which is a part of mizzenmast shroud.
 

 
Double block on the flagstaff, which is part of mizzen sheet.
 

 
All gun tackles and breeching ropes done... so ship is ready for battle 
 

 

 
Cheers,
Matt
 

Hi All,
 
I have small update with progress on Papegojan.

Currently I'm working on so far most annoying details... gun tackles 
Blocks 2mm, rope - around 0,25mm
At the same time I'm working on gunport lids tackles - rope 0,35mm
 
Here's how it looks so far...
 

 
Blocks are made of pear wood.
Long time ago they were made by my friend Mirek on CNC. They were patiently waiting for their turn.
 
If someone is looking for blocks (I hope admin don't mind if i past the link ?? 🤔)

http://www.szkutnik-model.pl/index.php/elementy-drewniane/bloczki-jufersy-serca
 
@SZKUTNIK has them now available on his online shop.
 
 
Cheers,
Matt

Good morning.

Good morning.

Good morning.

Moving forward towards the waist....the one fitting on deck that needed to be done next was the mast coat for the mizzen mast.  I decided to do all three mast coats and get them done.  These are laser cut for you in boxwood.  The mizzen mast coat is only in two layers.  The thicker top layer should be rounded off on the top edge and then glued to the really thin disc which is slightly larger.   The laser char was carefully removed while paying attention to keep these round.   I didnt bother with the inside because this will be painted black or dark gray.  Making these in layers is a great way to avoid using a lathe.  I just sanded and shaped them by hand.
 

The main and forward mast coats are made in three layers.   Basically another thin layer is added on top after rounding off the TOP edge of the thicker center layer.  If that makes sense.
 
The main mast coat also has some eyebolts along each side which were added.  See the plans for details.
 

That means I can now build out that forward bulkhead next....
 
The center section was added first just like before but this was worked in conjunction with the panel that spans both bulkheads.  See below.  You want to position both and shape both to fit.  Dry fit them and when satisfied glue them into position.
 

This next part is optional because you wont see any of it.  But I went ahead and did it anyway.  To avoid having a gap above that cross panel once the qdeck is planked....I added some 1/16" thick laser cut pieces between the beams.  The beams were placed in position only temporarily.  Then the strips were glued to the top of the panel.   You can see the last one ready to be glued.
 

Then you can remove the two deck beams and it will look like this.
 

I removed those beams so I could build out the rest of the forward bulkhead.  It makes it easier to get your finger in there.   You can proceed to build out the remaining panels for the forward bulkhead just like you did for the aft version.  Build the doors and then add the outside pieces.  See the pick below.   Once done you can absolutely glue the other two deck beams into position.  You can also add the 3 lodging knees on both sides.  There are no hanging knees here.   Sand them to fit snug and make sure they face the right way.   You can simulate the bolt head pattern on these if you want.  But on my model they wont be seen at all so why bother.   I would use 20lb. black filament for the bolts if you want to show them.  Dont forget to glue your cannon in permanently so it wont come loose.  Otherwise break out the tweezers because it will be hard to work under those beams should anything come free or if you get any debris down there.
 

 
 

These two can't frames will be sanded.

I stumbled onto this video this morning.
At 52.27 minutes long I was sure I'd watch 5 minutes or fast forward a bunch but I found it captivating.
I feel that understanding how a wooden bucket is made will help modellers create realistic looking buckets for their ship models.
 
 

A small update, was able to do some work this weekend, progressing slowly...if you notice an error please say so, so I can correct early, thanks!

Thank you  DCN - I appreciate your help very much - Jaws has a rich presence on the internet, with many very informed fans! 
Over the last few months I have collected several hundred images, many from the film, and also production shots, out-takes and pictures of the boat after the movie was filmed. 
There are a number of sites where people are converting real boats into a replica of Orca, and their research has been helpful.
I am currently looking for shots of the interior - especially anything of the trunk cabin, and also of the stem/pulpit construction.
Sometimes the shots showing the boat falling apart are helpful (if sad) as they reveal construction methods. for example...

 

Hi 🙂

After a long time I update the state of my construction site ....

I have now done the work on the head, using the laser cut parts, the printed friezes and the molded resin parts. Even with the laser cut parts, this is no walk in the park. Truthfully, it was very difficult. It is one of those tasks that you're just happy to be done with.  Among the most troublesome areas for me were the hawse holes and getting the friezes to sit well.
 
In any event, I'm now going to do the guns.
 
Bob

Hello everyone,
slightly changed the design of the scupperhose, normaly scupperhose should be put on the scupper tube and secured, I showed only some hypothetical fasteners, not as it should be correctly but at least now it does not look as if the sleeve is simply pushed into the pipe :))) - now it is pushed in and nailed outside :))) !!!

Good day,
Dear all,
Continue with spritsail, fore and main sails sheets and braces rigging ... during seizing all critical points secured by CA gel ...

Hello everyone!
finished installation of the starboard anchors ... the port side was completed earlier ...
so I can say the theme with the anchors is finally completed !... well, great !!! :)))
I crawl to the final stage with fitting sheets and braces ...

Hello everyone! finished fixing the anchors on the starboard side based on the pictures that above posted information from Harland's book

Henry is right, I checked the literature.
 the sprittop sail is larger than the fore topgalant, and smaller than the topsail. The 'blinde' was around 1700 afairly wide sail, the length of the yard being three-quarter of that of the main fore. Still, it is a considerable amount of sail.
 

 
Jan

As Henry said: as long as spritsails were set, there were essentially no lines under the bowsprit, apart from the ones necessary to set the spritsail.
Any other lines, as bobstays, were behind the spritsail, so no problem.
 
I object to Henry when he sais that the spritsail and the topsail are always small: in the late 17th century they tended to be quitelarge, almost as large as the main and top on the fore mast.

 
Jan