Ferrus Manus
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Everything posted by Ferrus Manus
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Welcome to the club! My nasty quirk is that i do the research and find out something is "correct", put all my eggs in that "correct" basket, and then refuse to accept the fact that my primary source was wrong, and that only happens AFTER i have made a critical error on a ship due solely to faulty research. -
If you check out my "Golden Hinde" build, you can see that i made up the lateen martnets and brails as one singular line. It seems like as time progressed, shipwrights tended to try to simplify rigging by merging what used to be multiple lines into one single line. Wonderful ship!! However, i highly doubt a carrack built pre-1500 would have had a spritsail. I also quite enjoy seeing your assistant help you.
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I used antiquing medium, but i thinned it down a ridiculous amount with water. After application, i wiped some of the excess off with my fingers. The nice thing about this antiquing medium is that you can considerably alter the tone of the paint by adding water. The grand total was likely 1 part water to 1 part medium. I still have yet to paint the details on the deck, which will be in two shades of brown.
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Tomorrow is April 26, which means another obligatory "never forget" post on Instagram. On a lighter note, however, i finished painting the shields for the sterncastle of the Spanish Galleon. I also painted and weathered the decks of the vessel:
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On a ship, everyone's gotta eat. It wasn't uncommon to house live animals onboard a ship, especially a large one, for consumption by the crew. Those chicken coops are, in reality, chicken coops, housing actual chickens.
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Apologies for my absence on this build. Designing the Senora Fielden has taken up all my modeling time, and i am just now getting back to the Spanish Galleon. I am thinking i may do something new when i get to the sails. I may order sails from HiSModel, or i might try my hand with silkspan sails.
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One of my best friends served on the border of West and East Germany. He served in various tank crews, and i believe he served in all three tanker positions. He goes to my church, and his name is Don. He served in '86, which is why i told him to never skip out on his cancer screenings. He's an amazing guy, and i am proud to know him.
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If it isn't THE Bluejacket Shipcrafters! I quite enjoy the fact that you work in 1/8"-1', by far my favorite scale. If i ever have the will to do a POB kit, I'll have to ckeck out your Charles P. Notman.
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When i talk about l/b, i am talking about total length, i.e. total length of the entire hull, in relation to the total width of the entire hull (width of the master frame).
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Yeah, wood rats are a real species of rat. The more ya know. They actually live mostly on the west coast of the United States, so i should know this.
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Wait, woodrats are an actual species?? I just thought it was an expression. Ya know, how you build with wood and dont mind getting your hands dirty.
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Remember, you are teaching complex shipbuilding terms to an uneducated simpleton, who knows naught but the most basic of shipwrightery skills.
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I will do more research on the measurements discussed by woodrat, as i only know the layman's terms.
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Now that i've thouroughly pissed off Woodrat, we can continue.
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Total length to total beam. Can we start there? Would a total length/total beam ratio of about 2.5 be appropriate? The keel is about 1/2 to 2/3 the entire length of the ship, depending.
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It seems as though 2.5 would be more appropriate as a total l/b. None of the proto-carracks i have seen in Steven's collection had a l/b slimmer than about 3, and most of them were about 2.5, or thereabouts. The Venetian carracks, particularly the larger ones, may have been slimmer.
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The larger carracks might have been slimmer than smaller ones like the Mataro ship. Also, different eras and places would certainly produce different designs. The Lomellina Nave was built over 50 years after the Mataro carrack, and was likely almost twice the length. What type of wood would be ideal for working on the frames and central assembly? Remember, these structures will be relatively bulky due to their large scale and increased thickness.
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That response gives a great deal of insight into my build. As for the l/b, i would say it would have to be length between perpendiculars, that is, including the stempost and sternpost. If the l/b in relation to the keel only were 2/1, then the total l/b would be about 3/1. Let's assume the lbp/b is 2/1. This would give us a total l/b of approaching 2.5/1. With Woodrat's assistance, i am weaning myself off the Mataro Model when it comes to exact measurements.
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Coca by Foremast - Amati -1:60
Ferrus Manus replied to Foremast's topic in - Kit subjects built Up to and including 1500 AD
Would this ship have had a set of fish-tackles? If so, where would they be located? if not, how would they raise anchor? -
If anyone can think of a more appropriate length-to-beam than 2/1, i would like to know. Approximately how wide should the master frame be in relation to the keel/central assembly?
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One other thing to note is the futtock riders. In the almost 600 years of this ship's existence, most of them have likely fallen off. (the Amati kit is ridiculously inaccurate, even to the current Mataro model) and a real carrack from around that time should look like this: There are artist errors in this ship as well. Many depictions of carracks omit the futtock riders, but that is likely in the interest of simplicity. There would probably be three midships futtock riders, and three for the sterncastle.
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Here, we get a good look at the interior of the Mataro Carrack. I would like to bring your eyes to two points on the ship: The interior bulwarks and the exterior planking. First, the interior bulwarks. The interior walls of the ship are, in fact, fully planked. However, the exterior top rails on the sterncastle are long gone. However, this damage to the ship may be a good thing, as it allows us to see into the walls to have a look at the framing. The frames on the Senora Fielden, at the point where they rise from the main deck level, are to be a quarter inch thick by the half-inch thickness of the frames. I may or may not fair the thickness of the frames down as they go up toward the top, to increase stability and reduce weight. I chose the half-inch thickness for two reasons. 1: to increase the sturdiness and stability of the relatively large model. 2: to provide a large area on which to glue the ends of the strakes. The other issue of concern is how the exterior of the ship comes together. As you can see, as opposed to Woodrat's Venetian Carrack, the spaces between the deck beams are planks. Also, the scuppers are not hidden within the deck beams, but rather adjacent and slightly raised, to slightly above the deck level. The raising of the deck will be, once again, a quarter inch at the deck's widest point. This will decrease proportionally as the deck narrows.
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