allanyed
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Question about stoves and how the rotisserie worked
allanyed replied to Modeler12's topic in Nautical/Naval History
For those that want to read the patent on the Brodie stove see the attached. Spelling is as it appeared on the patent..... Allan Brodie Patent.pdf -
If I had to choose one, I would go with TFFM IV. If I were to choose two, I would also recommend Lees Masting and Rigging. English Ships of War 1620 to 1860. Lees can take a little time to get used to as he covers such a wide range, but once you home in on the appropriate year, you can size everything with good accuracy. Allan
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JB Sorry for the miscommunication, my mistake. I meant that the MODEL planking should have no gaps. I imagine these would be tough to open as you describe on a model. I have used pencil and tissue methods. The tissue is indeed less subtle than the greyish pencil. I suppose using grey tissue in place of black would be a good alternative to those who prefer this method and want a bit of subtlety. Allan
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I just read the chapter 26, the addition to the original volume IV which deals with making sails. This chapter alone is worth the price of the book. The details are incredible and are presented in a way that all of us can make realistic sails that are "to scale" in all ways. The difficulty in making to scale sails for popular building scales has been discussed on this site numerous times and is one reason many builders, myself included, do not like making sails. That has now changed, at least for me. Allan
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Chuck, Interesting idea, but my first thought was why would there be cracks between the planks? They should be tight against each other. Then I thought that if each planks has a slight chamfer on the edge, this will leave a gap for the aluminum. The hard part though would be getting a perfectly even gap on every plank. Do you have any photos you can share? This idea is a bit intriguing. Allan
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Pasanax It may be too late for your current model, but the edges of the planks need to be tapered so they fit properly. Do a search of this forum and you will see it has been brought up in the past and there are sketches of what I described in words. If it was me, I would remove the planks and start again, but that is just one opinion. The caulking lines would only be the width of a piece of tissue or paper which is described in the planking tutorials, and the gaps you show are quite a bit more from what can be seen in your photo. Allan
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Jerry, Before the introduction of train tackle, the running (out) tackles were unhooked and used as train tackle when needed. The use of the tackle as train tackle depended on whether the guns were on the lee or windward side. The hooks facilitated this action. When separate train tackle came into use, it would be used as necessary to hold the leeward guns in place during reloading so the running tackle was no longer needed for this purpose. At this point, the running tackle hooks were often moused so they could not be easily unhooked. This means they were maintained in place when the guns were fired, not unhooked. An interesting note is that the breech was not in a straight line, but dropped down to a ring on the carriage that was lower than the ring on the bulwark. This added a lot of friction to slow the recoil. The above is from Volume II of Caruana's English Sea Ordnance. Allan
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Umeckt Try contacting them directly, they would be your best source. Info@corel-srl.it I love what you can find on the internet in 2 minutes. Allan
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Just noticed this thread picked up again. If it matters after all this time, I used to use materials from Micro Mark and it was no problem, but then changed to Polytek in Easton Pennsylvania as they specialize in resins and silicones and are experts in the field.. You can discuss your project and problems with them and they will suggest the proper product. I do not have any materials on hand right now so cannot tell you which one I used. Relative wall thickness is important. Better thicker than thinner.Allan
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100 years ago tomorrow afternoon, local time, May 7, 1915 Lusitania was sunk by the German submarine U-20. The attached is Lusitania at the end of her record breaking crossing in 1907. Dead Wake is a great book on her final days. Allan
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Al, If you are not happy with the filling and sanding after you try to fix one or more, you can still remove them and throw them out and put on new ones. Lots of opinions for you to consider, and they are all free Don't forget, the slots will have slight angles to them to match the angle of the shrouds. Allan
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Al, A picture of what you have done so far would sure help here. It sounds like you have already drilled the holes that are suggested in the plans but you can fill them with some sanding dust and glue. There should not be any holes other than for eye bolts in some cases. . Normally the slots are only as wide as two strands of the strop wire, 1.6mm in your case, and the depth of the slot is equal to one diameter, that is 0.8mm. With a slot that is 0.8 mm deep, you can more easily cut this with a chisel or sharp blade rather than a saw. Allan
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Kevin It is probably a bit late, but I have a pretty nice piece of keel from one of the skipjacks that was rebuilt at St. Michaels about 10 years ago or so. If you or anyone else interested would like a chunk to cut up for pieces of a future "Jack" model, PM me. Allan
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David If you run into any problems with the galleries get David Antscherl's book on the Comet. It includes a 17 page chapter on building the quarter galleries that alone is worth the price of the book. Allan
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There are some very nice sets of plans free for downloading at the Library of Congress including the schooners Lettie Howard and Ernestina. Both are beautiful vessels and can be built POB, POF, or solid hull. Google Library of Congress and the vessel name and the series of plans and photos will come up. They can be downloaded in TIFF and a few other formats and are quite clear when enlarged. For the Ernestina, www.loc.gov/pictures/item/ma1719/ When it opens, on the left side of the page, click on drawings or photos as you wish to see. Allan
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Imack The vertical dimension of the keel does not change except for a slight upturn of a perhaps 6 inches at the forward end to allow a boxing joint to be made to tie to the lower stem piece. The width does in fact change as it tapers slightly forward and aft. My point in bringing this up is that you are a beginner and we love having new blood here, but listen to those that have been there. Do a simple model first, or, if you really want to do a more technical model, plan to spend a year or two or more. You have more mentors available here than you would probably want, so you are lucky fellow compared to those of us that had only what few books we could find in the library back in the day. Take the advice of those that have been there before you. Allan
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iMack Regarding your question about the thickness of the keel and frames, the keel varies forward and aft from center. A frame's siding varies as they rise as does its moulded dimensions. If you had posted this two days ago I would say you were doing an April Fools joke. Please say 6 weeks is a typo and you meant 60 weeks. Allan
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Eddie If you live in the US near the ocean, there may be help. The Lettie is in NY. New England has several Gloucestermen that serve as examples and there may be appropriate schooners on the West Coast. Nothing like seeing the real thing to get it right. If you live other than in the US, I am sure there are plenty of members that may be able to steer you to an applicable schooner. If you do not have access to the actual boats in the water, The American Fishing Schooner is your best bet, book wise, IMHO. I have used it in guiding me through 4 schooners over the past few years. You can also find schooner photos on the internet for some fine up close details although most are under sail. Allan
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Don't worry about not having the milling machine, it won't work for a rabbet as the rabbet is dynamic for the most part and the set up on the mill would be static. The Fully Framed Model Vol. I describes the process very well on pages 44 and 45.. A SHARP vee gouge and/or knife and chisel will do the job beautifully if you follow the advice of Russ and take baby steps. Allan
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Thinking Things Through - French Frigates
allanyed replied to mtaylor's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Tim, I have never heard of any US location other than used copies, but maybe some one else knows otherwise. On the bright side, the $US has gone from about $1.57 in May 2008 to the Euro $1.08 lowering the prices by 30%. Allan -
We are nearly at the 100 year anniversary of the sinking of the Lusitania. I would like to recommend Dead Wake by Erik Larson which goes into the background of many of the passengers and crew of the Lusitania under the command of Captain William Thomas Turner as well as the German submarine U-20 under the command of Kapitanleutnant Walther Schwieger. She was torpedoed a little after 2 in the afternoon of May 7, 2015 and sank in 18 minutes. This is a non-fiction work but nearly reads like a novel. Mr. Larson has done his homework and written a book that is not to be missed. I could go on for a long time on this book but suffice it to say that it is "must read" for anyone with any interest in maritime history, the history of WWI, or history in general for that matter. Allan
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Keith, Another item to consider......if the edges of the planks are not properly beveled, you will either start with gaps as in A, or create gaps when sanding areas like B in the sketch. The sketch is exaggerated for illustration purposes, but at some points of the framing where the curve is relatively severe, this problem worsens. Allan
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Ed, If I have learned nothing else from this build it is that I do not own enough chisels! I use mine a lot, but now see areas where a few new shapes and sizes are needed in my tool box. Allan
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David Is the L&H painting by Geoff Hunt? Looks a lot like his style. Would love to have the money for one of his originals! Thanks Allan
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Securing the lanyards of the deadeyes
allanyed replied to dafi's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Thanks for sharing the video! Allan
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