allanyed

Very neatly done planking! Just as an FYI for the future for ship's boats, launches, etc, W.E. May's book is a treasure trove of details that will help avoid the myriad of kit mistakes.  One example from one of his pages of scantlings: A 30 or 32 foot launch would have 10" wide planks.  Scaling your photo in a CAD program, the planks look to be about half that size.
 
There are great contemporary plans available for free that allow anyone to scratch build a boat and hand tools are the only thing needed, although a scroll saw is a plus.  There are 25 high resolution contemporary plans of gun boats on the Wiki Commons site on page 10   https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Ship_plans_of_the_Royal_Museums_Greenwich  Even if building a kit, the drawings could be useful in showing what these boats really looked like.
Allan

FWIW from the RMG    https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-8460
Who knows if this is typical or even correct.  RMG is phenomenal but not without erroneous information every now and then.
Allan

Thanks Masa,
I would like to get some and check it out but I have my doubts.   "A good thread count for microfiber sheets is anywhere between 200 and 800. Microfiber is known for its softness and sheets from this material tend to get softer every time they're washed. If you see thread counts of 800 or more, the manufacturer likely inflated the thread count. Some manufacturers twist their yarns for weaving, essentially doubling or more what the thread count would be in reality.
Thanks again
Allan

Chief, The above is all too true.   I wish you or someone would find and share a free detailed rigging source that covers hundreds of years and a full range of ship sizes.   In the meantime you will need to invest in a good rigging book, but alas, there is only one that I know of, Lees' Masting and Rigging   It is based on English ships.  Marquardt is another great choice but I think it only covers the 18th century.  Anderson is great as well, but is limited to the Days of the Spritsail Topmast.  David Antscherl's volume IV of TFFM model is another that you should consider.  Some folks like Petersson's book but it is based on a single contemporary model so very limited. 
Allan

FWIW from the RMG    https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-8460
Who knows if this is typical or even correct.  RMG is phenomenal but not without erroneous information every now and then.
Allan

Buongiorno and welcome to MSW Carlo.  It is nice to see you promoting our hobby and showing folks your own methods such as the planking in your video. 
Where in Italy are you located?  I had the good fortune to work in Italy making numerous trips each year for over 30 years to Toscana and Lombardia.  No longer being able to visit your country as often is one thing I do not like about retiring.
Ciao
Allan

Tried to purchase a similar one and found it was no longer being manufactured.  Built this one out of 3/4 inch plywood, 1x2 pine and 1/4x2 poplar.
Holds things in place nicely when planking and can be rotated and adjusted easily with wing nuts.
 

Clever and it obviously works well!!!    Alternatively, you can also use the following method, although your device might be easier at our scales.
 
 
 

Kmainguide,
I know I am really late to the party, but for a first build, your work is excellent.  Hope you don't mind a thought on the sheathing.   For future I would find another supplier for the copper sheathing. Assuming the BJ material is to scale (48"X15") or thereabouts, the nail punch marks look to be about 2" in diameter rather than the actual 1/2" diameter which should barely show up at your scale.  At 1:96 they would be 0.005" diameter so maybe better left off.  The overlap is fantastic.  This is the first build log I have spotted where this was done correctly.  My apologies to others that may have also done this correctly and I missed it.  
The real thing below.
Allan

Hi Dziadeczek,  What is the thread count of your material?   Looking on line, muslin is shown to normally be between 150 and 180 so would be far out of scale for 1:24 and smaller.  Canvas has a TC of about 50 per inch so to be close to scale at 1:48 it would have to have a TC of over 2000 or conversely,  using180 count material like muslin would have the equivalent of threads that are 1/4" in diameter.  Same can be said for stitching.   I realize it comes down to how much scale accuracy each builder wants.   
 
Allan

Welcome to MSW.  You made a very wise decision in your first projects.   
 
Allan

Hi Dziadeczek,  What is the thread count of your material?   Looking on line, muslin is shown to normally be between 150 and 180 so would be far out of scale for 1:24 and smaller.  Canvas has a TC of about 50 per inch so to be close to scale at 1:48 it would have to have a TC of over 2000 or conversely,  using180 count material like muslin would have the equivalent of threads that are 1/4" in diameter.  Same can be said for stitching.   I realize it comes down to how much scale accuracy each builder wants.   
 
Allan

Scroll down to page 8 of this document for some info and an illustration.

Welcome to MSW.  You made a very wise decision in your first projects.   
 
Allan

Hi Chief,
 
The slot and cover board are far easier to work with rather than any kind of hole.  You don't have to feed the deadeye strop through the hole, merely slip it in the slot.  Once they  are in place, the molding board keeps them in place.  Easy peasy compared to forcing them though the holes.   Wonder why it took those folks until 1771 to figure this out, especially when it came to replacing worn or damaged deadeyes and links.
 
Allan

Modeler Masa,
Thank you for the above, it is very well studied and thought out, but I think the name of the subject might be misleading.   The trials you did seem to use cloth, not silkspan, which is tissue paper made from wood fiber and acts differently than cloth.
Allan
 
 

Welcome to MSW.  You made a very wise decision in your first projects.   
 
Allan

Hi Andrew, Welcome aboard.   Are you on the Steelers side of PA or the Eagles side?
Cheers
Allan

I used silk fabric for model airplanes in the past, I think it was 14 g/m2. I put the stuff into a cardboard frame and worked/dried it horizontally, so no issues with not uniform paint distribution.
 
While I don't sew sails anymore, this silk fabric sews better, when you back it up temporarily with some silkpaper - paper is less prone to be distorted when transported through a sewing machine.

Modeler Masa,
Thank you for the above, it is very well studied and thought out, but I think the name of the subject might be misleading.   The trials you did seem to use cloth, not silkspan, which is tissue paper made from wood fiber and acts differently than cloth.
Allan
 
 

Modeler Masa,
Thank you for the above, it is very well studied and thought out, but I think the name of the subject might be misleading.   The trials you did seem to use cloth, not silkspan, which is tissue paper made from wood fiber and acts differently than cloth.
Allan
 
 

Allan, I’m not a sailor by any means so have no direct experience with these boats, but they are fairly large and I can see the difficulty in moving them around if upside down. The boats I have at the stern are not yet secured, so I have time to think about how to display them. The idea for me came in the form of Dr. Betts blog on the terror and his recent book, HMS Terror ~ The Design, Fitting and Voyages of the Polar Discover Ship. If you plan to build the Terror with upgrades outside what comes in the kit, I would suggest this book.
 
According to Dr. Betts, the Terror sailed in 1845 with 9 small boats, a 28’ Pinnace, a 30’ Galley, two 30’ whale boats, two 25’ cutters, a 23’ cutter, a 22’ Gig, and a 12’ dinghy. I plan to have 4 hanging from the curved davits, one mid deck that I just secured in place, and 4 on the aft deck. Here is a partial drawing from the book, I don’t want to include the entire image so I don’t have any copyright issues, but you can see where I got my idea…
 

Don't forget you also have stern davits for boat storage too😉- i liked Keith s comment a while back about turtles on a log when referring to the amount of boats on Terror/ Erebus!
 
Keith

"Alea Jacta Est" as the Romans used to say: The stern section of the ship has been covered with the main gun, and no access to the large guns is possible in this area: 
 

 

 

 
You can see how the Main deck section "E" had to be altered to fit the hull: 
 

 
Now, I will be working on the Quarterdeck positioning and hopefully get a clearer picture of the stern ornaments and galleries.
 
Yves
 
 

There are two top sails between the masts.
 
One is the gaff topsail. The peak is rigged to the fore topmast, the clew to the end of the fore gaff, and the tack pulled down at the jaws of the gaff by a line to the deck near the fore mast.
 
The other sail is a variation on the main topmast staysail. The simple triangular staysail is rigged to the main topmast stay that runs from the top of the main topmast to somewhere at the top of the fore mast. The tack is rigged to the fore top, the peak to the top of the main topmast, and the clew is hauled down by a line to the deck near the main mast.
 
I have seen quite a variety of these staysails similar to what is shown in your photo. These are four sided sails with the peak at the top of the main topmast, the throat where the main topmast stay attaches to the fore top, and the tack and clew lower down below the gaff. The clew is hauled down to a point on the main boom as in the photo you posted. Some of these four sided sails have the foot a short distance below the fore gaff, some extend half way down the foremast, and the one your photo shows seems to extend all the way down near the bottom of the fore mast. These sails were common on American fishing schooners and yachts.
 
MacGregor ("The Schooner") calls these main topmast staysails and has a picture (page 44) showing a schooner flying two main topmast staysails, one normal triangular sail and a longer four sided version similar to the one in your photo, but you can't see where the longer sail clew is belayed. Chapelle ("The American Fishing Schooners") also refers to these sails as main topmast staysails. I wouldn't be surprised if these sails had another name, but If so I can't find it.
 
I have posted a lot of information about schooner sail plans and rigging here:
 
https://modelshipworld.com/topic/25679-topsail-schooner-sail-plans-and-rigging/?do=findComment&comment=750865
 
See post #16 for a description of sail parts and how gaff topsails and main top staysails are rigged. I need to add this version of the main top staysail to my description of sails.
 
The schooner in the photo is also carrying a main jackyard topsail, an interesting "cheat" to increase the total sail area beyond normal class racing rules. It is a very pretty ship! The racing schooners often flew as much canvas as could be hoisted. As Jack Aubry said "If necessary we'll use our pocket handkerchiefs!"