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allanyed

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  1. Like
    allanyed got a reaction from mtaylor in Blocks: wood, card or 3D resin?   
    There is an excellent explanation of a common/easy method of making wooden blocks with hand tools as well as their proportional dimensions in The Fully Framed Model  Volume IV pp. 61-63.  For tiny blocks (1.5mm and smaller) McCaffery goes into some detail in his book Ships in Miniature on making punches for making paper blocks.
    Allan
  2. Like
    allanyed got a reaction from druxey in Bending hard brass.   
    Angel,
    It looks like your prop is in the wrong place or the diameter is too large.  Is it possible to relocate the propellor shaft or go with a smaller diameter prop?  Also, you can add a piece similar to the sketch below although it is probably not a good solution.  If the ship had a wooden keel then this would work well and could also take a false keel across the entire length of the ship as well.  
    Can you tell us which vessel this is?
    Thanks
    Allan

  3. Like
    allanyed got a reaction from tlevine in Blocks: wood, card or 3D resin?   
    There is an excellent explanation of a common/easy method of making wooden blocks with hand tools as well as their proportional dimensions in The Fully Framed Model  Volume IV pp. 61-63.  For tiny blocks (1.5mm and smaller) McCaffery goes into some detail in his book Ships in Miniature on making punches for making paper blocks.
    Allan
  4. Like
    allanyed reacted to KLarsen in La Mahonesa by KLarsen - Scale 1/48 - stern cross-section   
    Some more progress. I've installed the wales, the lower one was difficult to bend at the stern but I got it done. I've also gone ahead and trimmed the frames to their (almost) correct height and made the cutouts for the upper gun emplacements (not shown on the first photo which is from a week ago).
    I'm now turning my attention to the interior, I installed the keelson and will start on the strakes on which the deck beams are resting.

  5. Like
    allanyed reacted to Derick V in Blue Dolphin 1926 by Jond - FINISHED - 1:48 - Arctic exploration schooner   
    Hey Jond I have a connection to Joe Pica Jr. I sent him this form and he was blown away (no pun intended)! He would love to talk and share some of the information and details about his late father’s boat. Please feel free to email me at allcityest(at)gmail.com as he would like me to share his info with you personally. 
     
    Derick
  6. Like
    allanyed reacted to tlevine in HMS PEGASUS by giampieroricci - Scale 1:36 - Swan-Class Sloop from plans by David Antscherl & Greg Herbert   
    It is interesting to see the difference between the European and US/Canadian situations.  In the States, there are few contests and a few non-competitive shows.  Although some models are built by people who accept commissions, I would not describe them as professional modelers.  Your Pegasus is beautiful and deserves to be appreciated by the modelling community.
  7. Like
  8. Like
  9. Like
    allanyed reacted to glbarlow in Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Chuck - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF - prototype build   
    It’s just a pre- announcement of a ‘copy’ being pieced together now by some Chinese hack. 😳
     
    I just read it as well (as a guest, I was kicked out long ago). Interesting how some members are complimentary while the staff and admins work hard to disparage Chuck at every turn. This comment by a member “ I emailed Chuck with updates and progress pictures and found him to be very personable, interested and encouraging. A much more personal investment of his time and interest than one might otherwise expect from the head of a commercial venture.“ must have really hurt.
     
  10. Like
    allanyed reacted to tlevine in Blocks: wood, card or 3D resin?   
    Make the blocks you need.  Although tedious, it is not hard and does not require any fancy tools...just wood, a pinvise/drill and a razor saw.
  11. Like
    allanyed got a reaction from AnobiumPunctatum in HMS Bristol 1775 by robdurant - Scale 1:64 - Portland-class 50-gun ship - as built from NMM plans   
    Rob,
    I TRULY hope all goes well for you!! 
    I have recently been doing some more studying of the Portland class as the 50 gun ships of any era are probably my favorites.   
    This is very late to the table---  Christian mentioned I think that Portland has the conventional framing pattern with double and single frames.  This made sense to me but I just noticed a few days ago that on the framing plan for Portland there is a note that there are to be dry pieces of oak between every frame.  They show an example of these pieces at station O.  Whether this carried over to the later ships of the class I have no idea, but barring additional contemporary information to the contrary, I think one could argue there were no double frames.
    Allan
  12. Like
    allanyed got a reaction from Bob Cleek in How much more difficult is it to cut and lay individual deck planks vs full length strips?   
    The bulkhead spacing on many  kits has a much bigger spacing of the bulkheads (deck beams).    In the case of Polaris from OcCre, as mentioned above there is no such ship in real life so maybe it's best to go with what feels right to you as it is a beginner kit.   See post #5 in the topic https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34238-occre-polaris-is-there-a-real-role-model/      For example if this was a multi deck ship the upper deck beams are about 4 feet asunder.  The forecastle and quarter deck beams are closer to 2 feet asunder.   For your single deck vessel it is probably a guess, but two feet to three feet asunder would probably be OK.   
     
    Give careful consideration to the hull planking which is usually much more of a challenge.   Study the tutorial by David Antscherl here at MSW in the Articles Database and the four part You Tube video by Chuck Passaro as it will serve you well in the future.  
     
    Allan
     
  13. Like
    allanyed got a reaction from mtaylor in How much more difficult is it to cut and lay individual deck planks vs full length strips?   
    You wrote.    How much more difficult is it to cut and lay individual deck planks vs full length strips?
    In my own experience, it is not.   In practice many times I found it easier to do typical scaled 25 foot lengths.   There may be a problem though as your build is POB and the spacing of bulkheads may not be conducive to realistic butt shifts.  If that is the case, full length strakes may be better and then just fake the butts. 
     
    Allan
  14. Like
    allanyed reacted to marsalv in L'Amarante by marsalv - 1:36 - POF   
    To allanyed: Material used for this part is boxwood. The part is made using a cnc milling machine, which enables precise milling from both sides. The procedure can be seen in the photos in post 8.
    I continue with the construction of the wing transom.
         










  15. Like
    allanyed got a reaction from mtaylor in How much more difficult is it to cut and lay individual deck planks vs full length strips?   
    The bulkhead spacing on many  kits has a much bigger spacing of the bulkheads (deck beams).    In the case of Polaris from OcCre, as mentioned above there is no such ship in real life so maybe it's best to go with what feels right to you as it is a beginner kit.   See post #5 in the topic https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34238-occre-polaris-is-there-a-real-role-model/      For example if this was a multi deck ship the upper deck beams are about 4 feet asunder.  The forecastle and quarter deck beams are closer to 2 feet asunder.   For your single deck vessel it is probably a guess, but two feet to three feet asunder would probably be OK.   
     
    Give careful consideration to the hull planking which is usually much more of a challenge.   Study the tutorial by David Antscherl here at MSW in the Articles Database and the four part You Tube video by Chuck Passaro as it will serve you well in the future.  
     
    Allan
     
  16. Like
    allanyed reacted to Srodbro in Micro-Mark Desktop Dust Collection System   
    I spent some years designing dust and fume collection systems for laboratories and research facilities. Most devices like this are of little value; it’s the nature of the beast.
    Try this experiment:  Get your vacuum cleaner hose, and hold your hand a 1/4” from the nozzle. Feel the air movement?  Ok, now move your hand 1” from the nozzle:  you probably can’t feel air moving, or just barely. 2” away you feel nothing. 
    Now, connect your vacuum hose to the discharge of the vacuum ( if you can). You can hold your hand several feet from the discharge and still feel the air movement. 
    Why the difference?  Air best flows to where it is pushed, not pulled. 
    The suction of the hose is relying on barometric pressure to push the air into it ( essentially, the vacuum hose creates a “ hole” in the surrounding area near the nozzle that the air “falls” into). On the discharge end, the energy from the vacuum cleaner motor has been imparted to the air and will move with more force. 
    To better control the particles in the air, get a small fan to blow across your work surface away from you. 
  17. Like
    allanyed reacted to Kenneth Powell in Emma C Berry by Kenneth Powell - Model Shipways - 1:32 - as a yacht   
    Thank you, Allen -
    I did find the site very interesting. It comes with a nice film too that stresses the importance of keeping our historical vessels restored and intact.
     
    - Kenneth
  18. Thanks!
    allanyed got a reaction from Kenneth Powell in Emma C Berry by Kenneth Powell - Model Shipways - 1:32 - as a yacht   
    While the below probably will be of little to no help for building the model itself, you may find it interesting as a fan of ECB.
    Allan
     https://mysticseaport.org/explore/vessels/emma-c-berry-noank-smack/
  19. Like
    allanyed got a reaction from MBerg in How much more difficult is it to cut and lay individual deck planks vs full length strips?   
    The bulkhead spacing on many  kits has a much bigger spacing of the bulkheads (deck beams).    In the case of Polaris from OcCre, as mentioned above there is no such ship in real life so maybe it's best to go with what feels right to you as it is a beginner kit.   See post #5 in the topic https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34238-occre-polaris-is-there-a-real-role-model/      For example if this was a multi deck ship the upper deck beams are about 4 feet asunder.  The forecastle and quarter deck beams are closer to 2 feet asunder.   For your single deck vessel it is probably a guess, but two feet to three feet asunder would probably be OK.   
     
    Give careful consideration to the hull planking which is usually much more of a challenge.   Study the tutorial by David Antscherl here at MSW in the Articles Database and the four part You Tube video by Chuck Passaro as it will serve you well in the future.  
     
    Allan
     
  20. Like
    allanyed reacted to ccoyle in spars and yards?   
    The term spars includes both masts and yards.
  21. Like
    allanyed reacted to matiz in LA CREOLE/ LA GUADELOUPE by matiz - 1:48 - by Tiziano Mainardi from Boudriot plans   
    Good morning everyone ☺️  
     
     







  22. Like
  23. Like
    allanyed reacted to matiz in LA CREOLE/ LA GUADELOUPE by matiz - 1:48 - by Tiziano Mainardi from Boudriot plans   
    Hello everyone, and thank you all ☺️ temporary assembly:  
     
     
     



  24. Like
    allanyed reacted to matiz in LA CREOLE/ LA GUADELOUPE by matiz - 1:48 - by Tiziano Mainardi from Boudriot plans   
    Hi, and thanks at all ❤️
     
     






  25. Like
    allanyed reacted to druxey in HMS Echo by Hamilton - 1:48 - Admiralty Models - cross-section   
    Yes; Christian is absolutely correct: Whenever possible, run the grain along a piece, not across it. Avoid cross-grain! As you had it is weak and prone to snap.
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