allanyed

Ciao Giorgio
 
Finally went through your entire building log.  Well Done!!!!    What are you using for rigging plans, including block and rope sizes and belaying points?   This is always a sore point with me as I cannot find a really good single source.  Chappelle has several Gloucester vessels'  block lists, and most plans have sail plans, but I have not found a good set of drawings showing the run of the lines right down to the belaying points.    Chappelle is a huge help, but a royal pain to use as each chapter is alphabetical from anchor to windlass.  Even with the many great details he shows, it is not complete as far as rigging.
 
 Ciao
 
Allan

The deck (and hence the hull top line) has a significant bow from stem to stern. I therefore decided not to try and follow the deck to hull intersection with the 1st plank. Also the first plank was being laid at a small distance from the hull / deck intersection to take the later installation of the bulwark.
 
The line of the 1st plank was marked using a flexible straight edge which I made from .060 inch plastic.

 
Having marked the line I placed a number of pins along it to act as stops against which to accurately locate the 1st plank. The first plank was then installed using PVA wood glue and held in place by notice board pins while drying.

 
At .060 inch thick the first plank wasn't as flexible as I would have liked and so I decided to thin down succeeding planks progressively thinning each plank by .002 inch (reducing the planking thickness .050 inch by the 6th plank). Another departure from a previous post is that I found that I only had .250 inch x 3 inch x 48 inch obechi. I ordered up some .200 inch but decided to progress the planking using what I had. I will revert to the narrower planks where the hull curvature becomes more pronounced.

 
The first 5 rows of planking have gone on well and I haven't felt the need to do any tapering thus far.
 
The natural flow of the 1st plank left the stern in need of additional planks and before proceeding with the stern I marked a straight edge for the uppermost (nearest the deck) plank. I checked that the line for the upper plank was identical on both sided of the hull using my improvised height gauge (on the right of the picture)

 
I then installed the top plank on each side.

 
I then infilled the remainder of the stern using tapered planks.

Ciao Giorgio
 
Finally went through your entire building log.  Well Done!!!!    What are you using for rigging plans, including block and rope sizes and belaying points?   This is always a sore point with me as I cannot find a really good single source.  Chappelle has several Gloucester vessels'  block lists, and most plans have sail plans, but I have not found a good set of drawings showing the run of the lines right down to the belaying points.    Chappelle is a huge help, but a royal pain to use as each chapter is alphabetical from anchor to windlass.  Even with the many great details he shows, it is not complete as far as rigging.
 
 Ciao
 
Allan

Ciao Giorgio
 
Finally went through your entire building log.  Well Done!!!!    What are you using for rigging plans, including block and rope sizes and belaying points?   This is always a sore point with me as I cannot find a really good single source.  Chappelle has several Gloucester vessels'  block lists, and most plans have sail plans, but I have not found a good set of drawings showing the run of the lines right down to the belaying points.    Chappelle is a huge help, but a royal pain to use as each chapter is alphabetical from anchor to windlass.  Even with the many great details he shows, it is not complete as far as rigging.
 
 Ciao
 
Allan

SOS
 
I just went to the RMG Collections site and in the search line I typed compass.  They indicate over 2000 images are available.  Attached is the first one I found for the 18th century with a compass bowl of circa 1720 and the card being circa 1760.  I am sure you will find more in that file.
 
Allan

SOS
 
I just went to the RMG Collections site and in the search line I typed compass.  They indicate over 2000 images are available.  Attached is the first one I found for the 18th century with a compass bowl of circa 1720 and the card being circa 1760.  I am sure you will find more in that file.
 
Allan

An easy tool storage method =  a block of Styrofoam interior insulation, glued to a wooden base.  Just stick tools, point down into holes in the block - they are readily available and both you and the tools are protected.
The size   - 2 inches thick -  6-8 inches long and 3-4 inches wide,   Over here it is pink or blue or off brand - amber.
Home Depot sells small 1 inch thick sheets for "projects".   It does not react well to hot glue, but contact cement should do.

SOS
 
I just went to the RMG Collections site and in the search line I typed compass.  They indicate over 2000 images are available.  Attached is the first one I found for the 18th century with a compass bowl of circa 1720 and the card being circa 1760.  I am sure you will find more in that file.
 
Allan

Masking tape on the backside of the part helps too.
 
I usually drill closer the the center of the window, then cut diagonally into each corner. That seems the help give it relief when I cut along the lines.

I have always used a coping saw, which is a lot of hand work, but I have found that I can speed up or slow down as I need and I have a lot better control over the cut than with a scroll saw. I have owned two scroll saws, a Harbor Freight and a Craftsman and neither one was worth a plug nickel.
 
Try a coping saw, I think you will have better success and their about $5.00. But I believe the problem is coming in with the age of the kit and the plywood, which appears to be possibly separating due to failing glue. If this is the case, you may have to make new bulkhead patterns on new wood if the kit came with the patterns drawn on the plans at full scale. I know you probably don't feel this way now, but you are one lucky individual being given the opportunity to build this older beauty. Good luck with the build and look forward to plenty of updates.
 
mike 

To add a bit more, when spiled and pre-bent to the approximate bend of the hull shape, the planks will stay in place using any aliphatic (carpenter's) glue after a minute or less of holding it in place tight against the bulkheads and adjacent plank with light finger pressure.  The planks were normally about 30 feet long so even at 1/4 inch scale that is only about 8 inches long. PVA glues such as Elmer's white glue is not a great way to go for planking, in my personal experience.  Don't forget to bevel the edges of the planks as needed, both for inside bends such as near the stern and outside bends elsewhere.  I know "as needed" is not very definitive, but the amount of bevel varies along the length of the plank as the curves of the frames are dynamic.  I also agree with Duff that trennals are great for added strength, especially using bamboo, but tough to make to scale below 3/16". 
 
Allan

To add a bit more, when spiled and pre-bent to the approximate bend of the hull shape, the planks will stay in place using any aliphatic (carpenter's) glue after a minute or less of holding it in place tight against the bulkheads and adjacent plank with light finger pressure.  The planks were normally about 30 feet long so even at 1/4 inch scale that is only about 8 inches long. PVA glues such as Elmer's white glue is not a great way to go for planking, in my personal experience.  Don't forget to bevel the edges of the planks as needed, both for inside bends such as near the stern and outside bends elsewhere.  I know "as needed" is not very definitive, but the amount of bevel varies along the length of the plank as the curves of the frames are dynamic.  I also agree with Duff that trennals are great for added strength, especially using bamboo, but tough to make to scale below 3/16". 
 
Allan

To add a bit more, when spiled and pre-bent to the approximate bend of the hull shape, the planks will stay in place using any aliphatic (carpenter's) glue after a minute or less of holding it in place tight against the bulkheads and adjacent plank with light finger pressure.  The planks were normally about 30 feet long so even at 1/4 inch scale that is only about 8 inches long. PVA glues such as Elmer's white glue is not a great way to go for planking, in my personal experience.  Don't forget to bevel the edges of the planks as needed, both for inside bends such as near the stern and outside bends elsewhere.  I know "as needed" is not very definitive, but the amount of bevel varies along the length of the plank as the curves of the frames are dynamic.  I also agree with Duff that trennals are great for added strength, especially using bamboo, but tough to make to scale below 3/16". 
 
Allan

To add a bit more, when spiled and pre-bent to the approximate bend of the hull shape, the planks will stay in place using any aliphatic (carpenter's) glue after a minute or less of holding it in place tight against the bulkheads and adjacent plank with light finger pressure.  The planks were normally about 30 feet long so even at 1/4 inch scale that is only about 8 inches long. PVA glues such as Elmer's white glue is not a great way to go for planking, in my personal experience.  Don't forget to bevel the edges of the planks as needed, both for inside bends such as near the stern and outside bends elsewhere.  I know "as needed" is not very definitive, but the amount of bevel varies along the length of the plank as the curves of the frames are dynamic.  I also agree with Duff that trennals are great for added strength, especially using bamboo, but tough to make to scale below 3/16". 
 
Allan

When considering Continental (American) practice, keep in mind the variety of influences upon their approach to shipbuilding.  British, Dutch, and French design practices all influenced, in varying degrees, the American shipwright.  many (perhaps most?) were not exposed directly to British (naval) practices until they were already well established as shipbuilders.  Remember, until the late 18th century, there were NO dedicated warship constructors in America - all were builders of commercial ships that dabbled (on occasion) in privateers and small ships of war.
 
Humphreys, as one example, was not a builder of warships (though it is generally accepted that during the Revolutionary War there were a couple built in his yard).  He was, however, likely intimately familiar with the French Designed/Dutch built Frigate South Carolina (L'Indien).  The reported scantlings of the South Carolina are very similar to those of a British 74 gun ship - and are commonly believed to have strongly influenced Humphreys design of the original 6 American frigates.

Wes
 
Please keep in mind I was referring to contemporary drawings that we had purchased from the NMM, not modern drawings.  If we had only had  "modern" drawings we probably would have defaulted to the original contract, then the tables, and probably not considered the drawings very much for dimensions,
 
Allan

Wes
 
Please keep in mind I was referring to contemporary drawings that we had purchased from the NMM, not modern drawings.  If we had only had  "modern" drawings we probably would have defaulted to the original contract, then the tables, and probably not considered the drawings very much for dimensions,
 
Allan

Wes,
 
I have absolutely no experience with US ships other than Gloucester schooners so cannot comment with any authority..  I suspect, there were ship designers and shipwrights from England or trained by British designers and builders, thus may have followed practices from England.  If that is the case, I don't think you would be far off in using the scantlings in the book.   Keep in mind, if you look at contemporary drawings of British ships, there may be differences in the drawings from the scantlings, including Establishment scantlings. When Wayne Kempson and I worked on the Euryalus project he was continually finding differences in the scantlings between the drawings, the contract, and Steel.   We defaulted to the drawings, then the contract, then the scantlings in the tables.   The differences were minimal and hardly noticeable, if at all, in a model, but there were differences to be sure. 
I know this is not really answering your question, but I would feel safe using the scantlings
Allan

Wes,
 
I have absolutely no experience with US ships other than Gloucester schooners so cannot comment with any authority..  I suspect, there were ship designers and shipwrights from England or trained by British designers and builders, thus may have followed practices from England.  If that is the case, I don't think you would be far off in using the scantlings in the book.   Keep in mind, if you look at contemporary drawings of British ships, there may be differences in the drawings from the scantlings, including Establishment scantlings. When Wayne Kempson and I worked on the Euryalus project he was continually finding differences in the scantlings between the drawings, the contract, and Steel.   We defaulted to the drawings, then the contract, then the scantlings in the tables.   The differences were minimal and hardly noticeable, if at all, in a model, but there were differences to be sure. 
I know this is not really answering your question, but I would feel safe using the scantlings
Allan

Bob at Seawatch Publishing posted the news that the book of scantlings is now available to anyone interested.  The Seawatch website gives a good bit of detail but I thought it would be a good idea to let anyone interested  know a little bit about the book.
 
This is not a novel.  If you have trouble getting to sleep at night, it will work better than most drugs to fix that problem.  BUT, if you are a model builder, especially scratch builders and kit bashers, there is information all in one place that required a rather extensive and expensive library up until now.   Over 200 pages of the book are tables of British Naval ship scantlings and dimensions, including:
 
A.) 1719 and 1745 Establishments and the 1750 modifications to the 1745 Establishment. 
B.) 1788 Shipbuilder's Repository and Steel's Elements and Practices of Naval Architecture scantlings for ships from 110 guns down to 10 gun brigantine. Merchant vessel scantlings were not included because there just was not enough room.
C.) Boat scantlings from Steel
D.) Anchor scantlings from Steel
E.) Drawings showing many of the items listed in the scantlings.
 
I hope this will turn out to be a helpful source to many of you.
 
Allan

Wes,
 
I have absolutely no experience with US ships other than Gloucester schooners so cannot comment with any authority..  I suspect, there were ship designers and shipwrights from England or trained by British designers and builders, thus may have followed practices from England.  If that is the case, I don't think you would be far off in using the scantlings in the book.   Keep in mind, if you look at contemporary drawings of British ships, there may be differences in the drawings from the scantlings, including Establishment scantlings. When Wayne Kempson and I worked on the Euryalus project he was continually finding differences in the scantlings between the drawings, the contract, and Steel.   We defaulted to the drawings, then the contract, then the scantlings in the tables.   The differences were minimal and hardly noticeable, if at all, in a model, but there were differences to be sure. 
I know this is not really answering your question, but I would feel safe using the scantlings
Allan

Go to Specialshapes.com like George said.  That is where S&K gets there brass and then they repackage. 
 
Bob  

I have made blocks with internal iron strops a number of times but am not  really satisfied with any of the methods tried,  especially when making the smallest ones.  I have made them using laminations with the strop laid in, that being close to the method used in full size,  and from solid pieces drilled to take the strop on each side of the sheave opening(s).   I have drilled in the top (and bottom when needed) to take an eye which is totally wrong but passable at the smallest sizes once the eye is shaped a bit so as to not be round, but rather u-shaped or triangular.  If anyone out there has a favorite method that yields excellent looking internally stropped blocks that they would like to share, I am all ears and eyes.   
 
Thanks in advance.
 
Allan

I have made blocks with internal iron strops a number of times but am not  really satisfied with any of the methods tried,  especially when making the smallest ones.  I have made them using laminations with the strop laid in, that being close to the method used in full size,  and from solid pieces drilled to take the strop on each side of the sheave opening(s).   I have drilled in the top (and bottom when needed) to take an eye which is totally wrong but passable at the smallest sizes once the eye is shaped a bit so as to not be round, but rather u-shaped or triangular.  If anyone out there has a favorite method that yields excellent looking internally stropped blocks that they would like to share, I am all ears and eyes.   
 
Thanks in advance.
 
Allan

Consider before making them out of round metal, that in the real world, the hoops are not round, nor are they made out of metal.
 
Photos of mast hoops on various ships in San Diego last September:
 
America (replica) - Gaff schooner that won the Cup in 1851:

 
American Pride - 3 masted 130' schooner launched in 1941:

 
Bill of Rights - 136' gaff rigged schooner:

 
Californian - Top sail schooner built in 1984 as a replica of the revenue cutter "Lawrence" from the 1850's.  

 
Detail where hoops attach to the sail: