allanyed

Heard it seen it and wished I'd never seen CA. and to get as far ten years is lucky. As it crystallises over time and those crystals are bigger than the original joint very much like rust. Also it breaks down on contact with moisture. Such as humidity. Probably because it was designed to. As its only good use is for sticking soldiers back together until they get to the MASH unit. Circa 1970’s and Vietnam. It also has an exothermic reaction so can in some extreme cases melt plastic parts then there is the fogging. Easy to get around but still there. And it runs ever where or soaks right through. Changing the colour and texture completely. And if used for rigging no matter how small an a out used it will wick. So you then have a rigging line where part is hard as steel. Or melted. IMO only use it as a temporary hold before using real glues.

Whale boats..... If they are monomoys or similar,  the tutorials will surely help.  You may be able to get information from Mystic Seaport such as drawings and photos.  The internet is chock full of plans and photos, a few of which are attached the last being a whale boat being built for the Morgan
 
Allan

Whale boats..... If they are monomoys or similar,  the tutorials will surely help.  You may be able to get information from Mystic Seaport such as drawings and photos.  The internet is chock full of plans and photos, a few of which are attached the last being a whale boat being built for the Morgan
 
Allan

I do believe if it is not directly exposed to  water as were the hull or upper decks, there would be no caulking. The deadwood was covered with planking down low and inboard higher up thus not constantly exposed to water and thus not caulked.  I bow to any more knowledgeable members if I have misspoken.  
 
Allan

I do believe if it is not directly exposed to  water as were the hull or upper decks, there would be no caulking. The deadwood was covered with planking down low and inboard higher up thus not constantly exposed to water and thus not caulked.  I bow to any more knowledgeable members if I have misspoken.  
 
Allan

Hammock Cranes
 
The Hammock Cranes are J shaped and are bolted to the quarterdeck planksheers with two bolts. The holes for these will be a trick to drill with the quarterdeck rail and shrouds already in place. I should have done this a LONG time ago   .
 
I started by flattening the section above the planksheer and drilling the holes on the mill. The posts are all overlength for now :
 

 
Next I made a simple jig that fits into my vise to get an even bend into each post :
 

 

 

 
The posts are all of varying heights, with the longest ones forward. To cut them to size I taped the pieces to my bench and drew a pencil line at the point where they needed trimming :
 

 
Some of the bends are not quite right, but this doesn't matter at this stage as they will probably finish up getting bent a bit when fitting them. Final adjustments will be easy enough to do after fitting :
 

 
Short pieces of tubing were silver soldered on next. These will take the passing ropes. Making them oversize made it easier to solder them on straight. An easy job to file them flush later on :
 

 

 
Continued next post ....
 
 

I do believe if it is not directly exposed to  water as were the hull or upper decks, there would be no caulking. The deadwood was covered with planking down low and inboard higher up thus not constantly exposed to water and thus not caulked.  I bow to any more knowledgeable members if I have misspoken.  
 
Allan

Anders, 
If the boat is hung from stern davits, the length can be figured out pretty closely as the rings to which the falls were attached in the boat would probably be spaced about the same as the davits.  Drawings of boats showing the rings can be found in a number of books including Lavery's Arming and Fitting, W.E. May's book,  on ship's boats.   From there an approximation of the overall boat length can be determined.   A cutter or small pinnace might be appropriate and plans can be found on line at the NMM collections site.  I am not near my books, but W. E. Mays book may be a help for design as well as some scantlings appropriate to the mid 19th century.  I just did a quick search at NMM collections and found a number of cutter drawings including a 23 foot from 1852.   These are not high res when downloaded but most are 1/24 scale so should be clear enough to work with.  Google National Maritime Collections, then in the search box near the top left type  cutter or pinnace and a list of drawings and pictures will appear.  Click on them one at a time and the drawing comes up and when you scroll down below the drawing, a write up including date of the drawing can be found.   Hope this is a help.
 
Allan

Michael,
 
I do not know the image size per se, but I can tell you once down loaded (and do it as soon as you receive it, there is a time limit of a few weeks I believe) and inserted into  Turbocad or other drawing program, you can enlarge it to your heart's content and it as clear as can be.  As an example you can enlarge it enough to measure the width of a pencil line.  Faint notes, erasures and more,  can often be found that you may not be able to make out on a paper copy.   Well worth the price IMHO.
 
Allan

Michael,
 
I do not know the image size per se, but I can tell you once down loaded (and do it as soon as you receive it, there is a time limit of a few weeks I believe) and inserted into  Turbocad or other drawing program, you can enlarge it to your heart's content and it as clear as can be.  As an example you can enlarge it enough to measure the width of a pencil line.  Faint notes, erasures and more,  can often be found that you may not be able to make out on a paper copy.   Well worth the price IMHO.
 
Allan

Michael,
 
I do not know the image size per se, but I can tell you once down loaded (and do it as soon as you receive it, there is a time limit of a few weeks I believe) and inserted into  Turbocad or other drawing program, you can enlarge it to your heart's content and it as clear as can be.  As an example you can enlarge it enough to measure the width of a pencil line.  Faint notes, erasures and more,  can often be found that you may not be able to make out on a paper copy.   Well worth the price IMHO.
 
Allan

Michael,
 
I do not know the image size per se, but I can tell you once down loaded (and do it as soon as you receive it, there is a time limit of a few weeks I believe) and inserted into  Turbocad or other drawing program, you can enlarge it to your heart's content and it as clear as can be.  As an example you can enlarge it enough to measure the width of a pencil line.  Faint notes, erasures and more,  can often be found that you may not be able to make out on a paper copy.   Well worth the price IMHO.
 
Allan

Yes, the plan pricing is not cheap. However, i always console myself with the thought that the model will take, say, five years to build. So, the cost per plan per year is only 10 pounds!

Hi Ben - 
 
Thanks for the SNAME article.  It detailed and confirmed what I had read before.  It will not affect the actual building of the model, but more information is always better than less.
 
I looked again at the plans and the photographs.  Some of the photos look like a straight sided hull, while others could have some slight tumblehome.  But the deck plans do not show any indication of tumblehome.  The breadth of the ship on the D deck is the same as on A deck.  That may be from my digital manipulations (more on that in build log 2), but seems to be consistent.   Also, each deck plan shows with a dotted line how the ship widens as it goes up at the bow and stern, but there is no corresponding line inside the outer perimeter amidships to show any narrowing.
 
Here is the plan for C deck, separated into bow and stern so they would be larger in this format.  You can see that the outer line shows the hull amidships as a single narrow line, with no indication of doubling, which there would be if there were tumblehome. 
 

 

 
I feel pretty confident that if there were any tumblehome it was so slight that it could not be seen on a model at 1/192 scale.  In any event, the hull is completed and can't be changed at this point, so that's my story and I'm sticking to it.  
 
Thanks to all for being a second, third and fourth pair of eyes to keep me on course.
 
Dan
 
 
 
Dan

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 5 – Mast Steps
 
As bulkheads and spacers are added, it is necessary to make provision for supporting the lower ends of the masts.  On the framed model these steps are fully detailed and visible through the view ports, but on this version they need only be simple, functional and strong.  The first picture shows the step of the main mast just aft of bulkhead 12 – looking forward.
 

 
The brass pin will fit a hole in the bottom of the mast.  The bulkhead has been cut out to provide clearance for the mast.  A reinforcing spacer can just be seen through the opening.  For strength, the plywood bulkheads on either side of each mast are  sandwiched between such reinforcements.  The next picture shows the reinforcing spacer glued to the plywood bulkhead aft of the foremast.
 

 
The step of the mizzen mast is shown below before being installed.
 

 
The holes for the brass pins need to be precisely located, hence the dividers.  The drawings show these locations at the height of the spacer blocks.  The pins are slightly raked – roughly matching the mast rake.
 
The next picture shows the bulkhead forward of the one above, with the reinforcing spacer in place.
 

 
The next picture shows the hull framing well advanced.  The squares clamped to the shipway are important.  They keep the hull plumbed to prevent twisting as new bulkheads are added.
 

 
The last picture shows the hull framed back to bulkhead 42.  At the ends, the central spine needs to be built up with additional tiers to form the deadwood as the hull narrows.
 

 
Also, in this picture, additional spacers have been inserted inside the outer ones to maintain a solid hull surface where the lines converge sharply at the stern.
 
The complex rounded stern will be constructed in the next part.
 
Ed

Easy solution, Chris - have a go at scratch building.
 
John

I suspect the model kit industry is like many others. No one single factory makes everything, but rather assemble parts made by others.  Autos down to model kits.   You can find Michelin tires on many brands of cars because the auto companies cannot afford to make tires themselves.   It MAY be the same with kits.  Someone has the dies and casting tools and know-how to make a lot of pieces so the kit assemblers go to them for parts.   This may be totally off base reasoning, and is just one deduction from one person.......   To avoid poorly made parts, it would be better to make them yourself or go to a quality supplier of parts, such as Syren.
 
Allan

I suspect the model kit industry is like many others. No one single factory makes everything, but rather assemble parts made by others.  Autos down to model kits.   You can find Michelin tires on many brands of cars because the auto companies cannot afford to make tires themselves.   It MAY be the same with kits.  Someone has the dies and casting tools and know-how to make a lot of pieces so the kit assemblers go to them for parts.   This may be totally off base reasoning, and is just one deduction from one person.......   To avoid poorly made parts, it would be better to make them yourself or go to a quality supplier of parts, such as Syren.
 
Allan

I suspect the model kit industry is like many others. No one single factory makes everything, but rather assemble parts made by others.  Autos down to model kits.   You can find Michelin tires on many brands of cars because the auto companies cannot afford to make tires themselves.   It MAY be the same with kits.  Someone has the dies and casting tools and know-how to make a lot of pieces so the kit assemblers go to them for parts.   This may be totally off base reasoning, and is just one deduction from one person.......   To avoid poorly made parts, it would be better to make them yourself or go to a quality supplier of parts, such as Syren.
 
Allan

May want to use them in a drill press to reduce/eliminate the sideways stresses. It'll slow your progress down a little, but saves funds in the long run.

Michael, I use diluted PVA  whilst I'm doing the actual belaying as it holds the line in place without unravelling. It dries invisibly.
 
If any future adjustments are needed the glue can be softened with Isopropyl Alcohol and the belaying undone.
 
 Danny

Just use old paint to coat the ends- ASAP -  several coats  - if nothing else  use TiteBond  or whatever PVA glue you use,  but left over paint is usually something that goes to waste otherwise.  
 
I don't know about you, but I find 16-18 inches is a good length for my stock, longer is difficult to handle  -  I will  use 6 inch if that is what is available.  That is 24 feet long at 1:48. 
 
If it is what it takes to get it band saw size,  I would bisect the logs using a chain saw - down the pith - a bow saw and hand rip saw if that is all you have.  The kerf is horrible, but still better than nothing.  
 
For the band saw, you will not have one flat surface, either for the table or the fence.
Use a board to ride on the table and against the fence - 1/2 inch thick or so  2-4 inches longer than the log.
I used right angle framing braces/brackets  and drywall screws  to fix the log to the carrier board - keeps the log from rolling and lets you define the cut line.   Once you get two planes at right angle on the log - you don't need the carrier.
 
Use the band saw to shave off the bark from the billets.
You can use a draw knife to shave off the bark, it is just a chore to fix the log to keep it from moving.
 
RE: your friend with the band saw.  Find out how long  his blades are and buy about 3 economy rip tooth blades for it from a local shop.  Green wood is tough on blades and if Peach is like other fruit wood, much harder than what most wood workers are used to.  It will dull the blade faster than usual wood stock.  I would expect at least one blade to break.

Vince
I agree, the timber used was probably local to the yard where she was built.  Oak is likely, but pine was not unknown for some smaller vessels.  Regardless, I think most model builders agree that neither of these will do for models as the grain is too noticeable.   Mahogany is worse although it does have a beautiful color.  Costello, fruitwoods such as pear, holly, bass and poplar are probably the most mentioned woods.    Check out the forum on woods and you will get a good education based on experience of many members.  We all have our own personal preferences and there is no single "right" answer.  Traditionally, British contemporary models were mostly built with English or European boxwood, but it is extremely difficult to find and very expensive. 
 
For the tree nails, there are choices here as well, but working a dowel down to a 1 inch to 2 inch diameter (scale)  in even 1/4" scale is a huge waste of wood and probably difficult if at all possible to do.  Bamboo split into slim strips  and a good quality draw plate such as from Jim Byrnes to round them to the right diameter will serve you well.  There are many discussions on this site about treenails (trennals) that will guide you as well.
 
Please do start a build log and as you show your work and questions arise you will surely get help from many members.
 
Allan 

With all due respect, the planking expansion shows the pattern of planks, but they are distorted in the projected view. For instance, in the topside of the illustration of Squirrel, the midships planks actually curve in the opposite direction ('smiley'). Otherwise, virtually all the hull planks are cut on a curve, as you say.

Vince
I agree, the timber used was probably local to the yard where she was built.  Oak is likely, but pine was not unknown for some smaller vessels.  Regardless, I think most model builders agree that neither of these will do for models as the grain is too noticeable.   Mahogany is worse although it does have a beautiful color.  Costello, fruitwoods such as pear, holly, bass and poplar are probably the most mentioned woods.    Check out the forum on woods and you will get a good education based on experience of many members.  We all have our own personal preferences and there is no single "right" answer.  Traditionally, British contemporary models were mostly built with English or European boxwood, but it is extremely difficult to find and very expensive. 
 
For the tree nails, there are choices here as well, but working a dowel down to a 1 inch to 2 inch diameter (scale)  in even 1/4" scale is a huge waste of wood and probably difficult if at all possible to do.  Bamboo split into slim strips  and a good quality draw plate such as from Jim Byrnes to round them to the right diameter will serve you well.  There are many discussions on this site about treenails (trennals) that will guide you as well.
 
Please do start a build log and as you show your work and questions arise you will surely get help from many members.
 
Allan