allanyed

I spent some years designing dust and fume collection systems for laboratories and research facilities. Most devices like this are of little value; it’s the nature of the beast.
Try this experiment:  Get your vacuum cleaner hose, and hold your hand a 1/4” from the nozzle. Feel the air movement?  Ok, now move your hand 1” from the nozzle:  you probably can’t feel air moving, or just barely. 2” away you feel nothing. 
Now, connect your vacuum hose to the discharge of the vacuum ( if you can). You can hold your hand several feet from the discharge and still feel the air movement. 
Why the difference?  Air best flows to where it is pushed, not pulled. 
The suction of the hose is relying on barometric pressure to push the air into it ( essentially, the vacuum hose creates a “ hole” in the surrounding area near the nozzle that the air “falls” into). On the discharge end, the energy from the vacuum cleaner motor has been imparted to the air and will move with more force. 
To better control the particles in the air, get a small fan to blow across your work surface away from you. 

Thank you, Allen -
I did find the site very interesting. It comes with a nice film too that stresses the importance of keeping our historical vessels restored and intact.
 
- Kenneth

While the below probably will be of little to no help for building the model itself, you may find it interesting as a fan of ECB.
Allan
 https://mysticseaport.org/explore/vessels/emma-c-berry-noank-smack/

The bulkhead spacing on many  kits has a much bigger spacing of the bulkheads (deck beams).    In the case of Polaris from OcCre, as mentioned above there is no such ship in real life so maybe it's best to go with what feels right to you as it is a beginner kit.   See post #5 in the topic https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34238-occre-polaris-is-there-a-real-role-model/      For example if this was a multi deck ship the upper deck beams are about 4 feet asunder.  The forecastle and quarter deck beams are closer to 2 feet asunder.   For your single deck vessel it is probably a guess, but two feet to three feet asunder would probably be OK.   
 
Give careful consideration to the hull planking which is usually much more of a challenge.   Study the tutorial by David Antscherl here at MSW in the Articles Database and the four part You Tube video by Chuck Passaro as it will serve you well in the future.  
 
Allan
 

The term spars includes both masts and yards.

Good morning everyone ☺️  
 
 

Hello everyone, and thanks ☺️

Hello everyone, and thank you all ☺️ temporary assembly:  
 
 
 

Hi, and thanks at all ❤️
 
 

Yes; Christian is absolutely correct: Whenever possible, run the grain along a piece, not across it. Avoid cross-grain! As you had it is weak and prone to snap.

Thanks for the tip Christian! This process is not intuitive for me, and I appreciate the guidance!
hamilton

Hello,
it is done. At least the wheels are ready build. Next to build are the two supporters for the wheels.

Hello,
because today the summer ended we had here the last weeks and it rained again the whole day, I was busy at the yard. 
This is cutter No. 3 and I think now it works. The handles are a little too bulky, but when they are slimmer they would break. The spooks have a Ø of 1,6 mm!


Now are only 17+ spooks left

Definitely worth a try Phil, but need to be careful to avoid------------->

I could find no clear answer, just more questions.   Most of the photos of boats on ships that I looked at had nothing stowed but there are a few that had some things on board.  There is a photo of a cutter and larger boat on a ship on page 217 of The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War by Brian Lavery.  There is nothing in the cutter, including the rudder.  The other boat, which looks like a launch or longboat  boat, has rope and oars stowed.  The oars rest on the thwarts but pass under some kind of cross piece.  I thought this might be the windlass, but looking at contemporary drawings such as the long boat and launch below, the windlass is too low for the oars to rest on top of the thwarts yet pass under the windlass.  
 
Another example is https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66300 but both of these may be the model builder's choice, not actual practice.  Also, ships of war might have a different set of rules on such things.  Having any loose items left in the boats while on board was probably a bad idea.  With multiple boats, and before having multiple davits, often some would be stacked one on the other, another reason to not keep items stowed on board.
 
Seeing a few items on board may or may not be how it was done but, for me, having a few of these items add to the overall look to a boat build. 
 
Allan

To add to your possible options:
First,  I have been following this since the early 1970's and subscribing to all of the English language "journals" as well as about every book as it came out.  The only instance of having a deck plank butt on the same beam with every other strake has come from OcCre.  I have no idea where they came up it something both hideous and dangerous engineering.  Having ax handle diameter trunnels - standing out like carbide lamp beacons - at and only at each butt - is graphitti. 
 
Wood swells across the fibers.  They are not muscles.  they do not get longer.  If the end to end butt is tight when the deck is laid, a wide caulk filled seam is not needed.  The end to end butts would be difficult to see.
On actual ships that were well built, the deck trunnels were supposed to be as invisible as possible.   If it is to be modeler's convention show off deck trunnels,  there is a rigid pattern to be followed - and the contrast should still be subtile. 
 
Polaris is more boat than ship.  I do not see when it was supposed to have been built - or where - but in early to mid 19th c US, 40 foot long 10  inch wide planks were specified for corvettes - much larger.   A single plank per strake - without a cross scratch - would pass muster.  If you are laying it on a subdeck before it joins the stanchions/top timbers and outside planking a single is easy.  Trimming off the overhang at each end is easy.   If the deck is laid on beams.  with waterways in place,   the complex ends are more difficult to fit.  Jogging, nibbing,  or curved  starting outside in.   Getting a winning role of the dice at both ends is difficult.  Here two pieces may be easier.  A simple 90 degree join in the middle is easier to pull off.
 
Higher cost and not so good a choice for end cutting.
Choppers - crush fibers - even as a knife blade - they do not cut. 
HF Drill Master 2 inch - motorized - needs a lot of work on the work surface- kinda dangerous - throws what it cuts off  - is clearance so is probably soon to be extinct - MicroLux is probably the same unit.   Prozzon wants your next born for something 10 times more expensive and maybe 25% better made.
 
Quick and dirty:
Use a saw - a razor saw - mass market work fine - Zona , Exacto,
I prefer a cut on the pull stroke.   This requires either a Japanese mini saw - expensive - or a razor saw with a blade that can be separated from its backing and reversed.
 
a miter box - depends - with a saw with teeth that have set, the slot has to be wider - so some play.
Protractor:
Draw a line and cut by eye, then:
 
Get a 3/4" thick square of wood  12"x12" is enough - plywood is OK,  an off cut from an Oak stair tread wonderful.   Overhang the end of the plank.  Sanding blocks -  80 grit to remove a lot.  220 grit to finish.     If you can find sand paper with a simple paper or cloth backing - not the non-skid stuff - a coat of rubber cement on the block and on the paper - wait 15 min - press together - endless supply.
 
I found a $13 Porter Cable replacement miter gauge that might fit the board.  A stick of wood with a center pivot,  a distance out spike or screw, and a protractor with movable arms may be all you need to get accuracy for any angle.

Although Beagle was at the verge of explosive shells - which made their own splinters,  it was of the kinetic ball era.  Additional sources of wood splinters on deck - not all that wise.
The boats in the waist tended to be nested.  They were wood.  They probably required having their hull planking kept wet enough that they did not desiccate enough to open their seams. 
That is not a good storage environment for loose parts and equipment.   If Beagle's task was like that of the later U.S. Ex. Ex., the primary function of the larger boats was for mapping.  The smaller ones were probably better at getting onto and off of a beach - water, food,  getting investigators on to unknown shores.
 
 

It is not hard to cut the lengths. All you need is a craft knife. and to measure carefully. If you go slowly and carefully you shouldn’t have any problems. As a first time builder I can say I ran into many much harder problems than cutting scale length planks :).
 
I would recommend you plan out the planking pattern and maybe even draw it on the false deck to assist.

Thank you both.

This was emailed to the SW Florida ship modeler membership and I found it interesting.  Hopefully others here will, as well.
Allan
 

Baker,
Fascinating article, thanks for posting.  
Allan

Like Phil,  I would use Lees' formulas but keep in mind they are for English ships from 1625 to 1860 so there may be other info out there that is more appropriate.  For our scales, the Lees figures are probably very close.  I THINK my math is right on this. If you are unsure of the topmast shroud size, but know the lower mast diameters, again from Lees, you can multiply the diameter of the appropriate lower mast X 0.198 for the fore and main masts to get the circumference of the top mast shrouds and futtock shrouds.  The circumference of the mizzen futtock shrouds would be 0.25 the diameter of the mizzen lower mast.  At our scales finding the exact right size rope is difficult unless you make your own, but hopefully this might give you a little guidance. 
 
Allan

I could find no clear answer, just more questions.   Most of the photos of boats on ships that I looked at had nothing stowed but there are a few that had some things on board.  There is a photo of a cutter and larger boat on a ship on page 217 of The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War by Brian Lavery.  There is nothing in the cutter, including the rudder.  The other boat, which looks like a launch or longboat  boat, has rope and oars stowed.  The oars rest on the thwarts but pass under some kind of cross piece.  I thought this might be the windlass, but looking at contemporary drawings such as the long boat and launch below, the windlass is too low for the oars to rest on top of the thwarts yet pass under the windlass.  
 
Another example is https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66300 but both of these may be the model builder's choice, not actual practice.  Also, ships of war might have a different set of rules on such things.  Having any loose items left in the boats while on board was probably a bad idea.  With multiple boats, and before having multiple davits, often some would be stacked one on the other, another reason to not keep items stowed on board.
 
Seeing a few items on board may or may not be how it was done but, for me, having a few of these items add to the overall look to a boat build. 
 
Allan

While the below probably will be of little to no help for building the model itself, you may find it interesting as a fan of ECB.
Allan
 https://mysticseaport.org/explore/vessels/emma-c-berry-noank-smack/

This was emailed to the SW Florida ship modeler membership and I found it interesting.  Hopefully others here will, as well.
Allan