pompey2
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pompey2 reacted to ChrisLBren in USF Confederacy by ChrisLBren - FINISHED - 3/16 Scale
Thanks Steve !
Good morning group - bit of an update without pictures this AM. My brass pedestals arrived and look great - however after testing them out on my recently painted display base after some slight adjustment - they marred the finish. Im using General Finishes Lamp Black Milk paint - which I found out in hindsight needs 30-45 days to fully cure - so after re coating the top - I've set it aside and am finishing the final assemblies.
The knightheads are proving trickier than I thought to get right. Being so close to the finish line I was tempted to use the second set - but I know the third will be better - so why compromise now ? Especially now that Ive got some time on my hands while the display base cures....
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pompey2 reacted to uss frolick in Master and Commander: The 24 minutes of deleted scenes.
Since I bought the first dvd version of the movie, I did not see these extra scenes, which are included in the newest versions of M&C. I wish they had included them in the theatrical release. I hope this is an appropriate place to post them off Youtube
Enjoy:
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pompey2 got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Desktop CNC Router, Engraver, Mill
Hi All
I have been getting very interested in these little machines recently.
Only really for fine wood milling.
You see a lot of them across ebay and Amazon, pretty much all of the home market ones seem to come from China.
They are three axis, USB linked, approx. A4 table size and come with a software package.
And the prices are very good.
But that is as far as I have got, in a lot of respects they seem too good to be true.
Has anybody got any experience of using one?
Or even seen one in action.
I would like to understand a lot more - build quality, spares availability, ease of programming, reliability etc etc
Nick
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pompey2 got a reaction from thibaultron in How 3D plans could be helpful for a modeler
For models created in SolidWorks there is very good, free viewer - eDrawings.
You get pretty much full 3D viewing functionality - pull apart assemblies, section, measure, rotate, zoom etc.
Visit the solidWorks web site to download a copy.
It will also view some other formats like ACAD.
You can use it to view native Solidworks files, or the creator can save a native file as an eDrawing file to help protect their IP.
Nick
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pompey2 got a reaction from JohnB40 in USF Confederacy by pompey2 - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Done most of the initial fairing – stern infills.
Bow infills.
And hull. I will need to do some more yet but will wait until I can finish the whole hull together.
So my next job is to plank the sub gun deck platforms. I made them up in sections glued to a paper backing to avoid having to place them in awkward positions one at a time.
Then after trimming the backing they were glued them into position.
Next I made up the shadow box for the exposed hull frames and placed the frames into position.
So this is where we stand, now with the frames faired as well.
Will continue on another post
Nick
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pompey2 got a reaction from JohnB40 in USF Confederacy by pompey2 - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Adding on the Bow pre-cut pieces.
And at the Stern.
I am going to put filler pieces at the Bow and Stern to help maintain the shape of the planking and to provide greater gluing area.
So that's my next job.
First I cut some 1/2 thick balsa into rough shapes.
This set is for the gap between first and second bulkheads.
Then I offered them up and marked bulkhead profile on the edges.
Then removed them and roughed a line across the upper and lower face to correspond to the edge marks.
Then carve an approximate shape following the lines.
I am doing them for the first three bulkhead gaps.
Here the Bow fillers are now glued in place.
And as the manual advises I have added temporary bracing pieces across the tops of the more exposed bulkheads.
Next I will making lots of sawdust by fairing the frame.
Nick
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pompey2 got a reaction from JohnB40 in USF Confederacy by pompey2 - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Next the rabbet strip. I wanted to try an idea I had a while back for plank bending so tried it here.
I had bought a flexible curve, the sort often used for draughting (a lot in my past).
It was a cheap one but holds the bend very well and can go to a pretty tight radius.
I set up the flexi curve, soaked the bow part of the strip for an hour or so and gently bend it round the curve. I overlaid some scrap, very thin strip to avoid clamp marks then applied clamps all along.
Gotta say I’m pretty pleased. The curve held the radius completely and once dry the strip was just right.
Glued and clamped the strip to the bottom of the former. My keel clamp comes in handy already as a work holder.
Once set I transferred to bearding line on the former to the other side and tapered down to the rabbet strip both sides with chisel and sandpaper.
Here we are all done.
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pompey2 got a reaction from JohnB40 in USF Confederacy by pompey2 - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
So, to starting the kit.
The two parts of the Bulkhead former were cleaned up and glued together. I sandwiched them between two glass sheets plus some weights to keep things straight.
Cleaned up the bulkhead slots and test fitted them for a nice tight fit.
I’m very conscious of the length of this hull and wanted to be extra cautious to avoid any warping.
So gave some thought to a keel clamp arrangement, this is what I came up with.
I sawed up a few pieces of 18mm MDF. One big bit as a base, one smaller bit as a fixed jaw and another smaller piece as a moving jaw.
I Positioned the former between the jaws with a false keel spacer below and measured/marked the bulkheads positions
Then clamped the parts together and routed out slots to correspond with the bulkhead positions. They are different widths and depths, half the slot in each jaw.
The glued the fixed jaw to the base. Drilled screw holes/slots to allow the moving jaw to be clamped tight. I left the two jaws overlapping the base along the long side to act as a lip for fixing clamps, elastic bands etc.
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pompey2 got a reaction from JohnB40 in USF Confederacy by pompey2 - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
So, it's about time for an update.
I got to work on the stem:
Here it is fitted together and with the leading edge faired down.
And now going into place.
I found two thin strips to act as shims, they were the stem thickness minus the bulkhead former thickness /2.
Put one each side then laid strips on top of them and clamped it up.
Did that in two places.
That helped insure that the stem was glued as central to to former as possible.
Here it is now in place.
And where the edge is faired. made sure that the figurehead was a good fit.
Next job is the keel.
Used my keel clamp (here it all finished)
Mounted the former inverted and clamped it for a solid working position.
Put on the rabbet strip, and the Keel sections.
Drilled them off to simulate tree nails (as per Chuck's method)
The false keel will then follow.
Then stood the former on it's Keel and clamped it tight.
Now ready to start on the bulkheads.
I will continue later (next lunchtime at work )
Nick
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pompey2 got a reaction from JohnB40 in USF Confederacy by pompey2 - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
To continue.
I made up some jigging to help me keep the bulkheads square, both in the vertical and to the former.
Just a base with a triangular section glued on.
Then the vertical trued up square on a face sander.
This is how they work.
One placed each side of the bulkhead and clamped to my base.
The bulkhead is then adjusted and checked with a square.
The jig moved to hold it there and a clamp added.
So here goes the first bulkhead.
Continuing to add bulkheads, up to number four.
I have to wait for the glue to dry each time because I only have one pair of jigs.
slowly getting there.
Last few to go on the Stern.
All bulkheads now done.
here I have added the re-enforcing parts onto the former between each bulkhead after sanding to size.
I thought that the bulkheads still had a bit of fore/aft movement in them.
So to stop them moving when I fair the hull I have used some cut up pieces of scrap to re-enforce between the bulkheads further out from the former.
Here are the first few.
And with a full set in place.
They also help confirm the squareness of bulkheads.
Will continue on next post
Nick
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pompey2 got a reaction from mtaylor in How 3D plans could be helpful for a modeler
For models created in SolidWorks there is very good, free viewer - eDrawings.
You get pretty much full 3D viewing functionality - pull apart assemblies, section, measure, rotate, zoom etc.
Visit the solidWorks web site to download a copy.
It will also view some other formats like ACAD.
You can use it to view native Solidworks files, or the creator can save a native file as an eDrawing file to help protect their IP.
Nick
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pompey2 got a reaction from GaryKap in USF Confederacy by pompey2 - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
At this point I and read Dirk's (Dubz) problems on alignment.
I must say I was very please I did. So a big thanks to Dirk.
I replicated some of his checks, not as well as he did mind you.
Here you see where I had already marked the sweep ports vs. where the tracing put them.
The same tracing confirms things because the gun ports are pretty well aligned.
In some places I had to add extra pieces to the port backing blocks to cover the ports.
I have also done the fairing to the upper works now.
Then revisit the tracing paper and confirm the sweep port positions.
I wont use the rough tracing paper to actually place them.
Finally I used the template supplied in the kit (traced) to mark the proper positions of the ports through cutouts in the template.
Now, that's better.
I still have some catching up to post so will continue later.
Thanks for dropping by
Nick
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pompey2 reacted to captainbob in CAD software
Julie, I used both AutoCAD and SolidWorks at work. I now use AutoCAD only to develop bulkheads and keel for scratch building. I thought it would be useful to develop a hull in SolidWorks so I could add angled planes to get cant frames and such. But decided that drawing the 3D ship was more trouble than it was worth for so little return.
Bob
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pompey2 got a reaction from CaptainSteve in LED lighting below decks
Hi tom
My transformer was not in the base of the model but external, it was a plug in type so went into a wall socket via a remote control switching plug.
The two (now quite thin) wires run under the base then up through the base adjacent the support cradle.
I'm afraid the model is now in a cabinet so pictures not possible.
In my current model I am using posts to support the hull which have a central mole to run the cables.
Nick
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pompey2 got a reaction from CaptainSteve in LED lighting below decks
I ran 15 LEDs in my Caldercraft Victory.
I ran the two supply wires out though the mounting base to a transformer and added a remote control.
I buried a card with resistors in the hold and ran them as three parallel lines of 5 LEDs
Rather than Gunports I took a different approach.
At the foot of stairways, below skylight, behind cabin windows and in the three stern lamps.
Nick
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pompey2 got a reaction from Martin W in Carving tools, books and carving woods discussion
Chuck, like you I use a No 11 blade for nearly all tasks.
However you might find some of the other blades available may be worth exploring.
Very occasionally I use a 12D blade.
The nice thing about these is that they have a cutting edge both sides.
You can then alternate the side to better suit the shape you are dealing with.
They also seem to have a tighter / sharper angle at the very end allowing better angles of approach.
Nick
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pompey2 got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Victory,Caldercraft plan sheet 5
Hi Newt
They are belaying points associated with the P&S Knightheads, you can see a bit in the attached.
Nick
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pompey2 reacted to maaaslo in An asortment of card models
You have no idea... i have some like 100+ paper models. Most of them are gpm, modelik, i have the whole shipyard collection. Most famous german tanks and halftracks. I have sherman firefly. If you seem the kit, one of the most complicated on the market. I probably will never build it, but its a pleasure going through the pages... t34/76 from halinski. That model was their most advanced. So far have only seen it completed a handfull of times. It has lot more than 1000 parts.
none of you probably heard it, but during late 80s, early 90s, in former Czechoslovakia we had this magazine. Called ABC of young pioneers (in sense of you g comrades). They have released a continous stream of the architectural models and called it MPR. Stands for something like historical town centre heritage... was a whole town.
have a look:
i have a whole lot of those, plus a whole lot more different ones. My collection is nothing, comparing to some geeks i know...
they need cellars, i only need a bottom of the wardrobe with a few banana boxes.
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pompey2 got a reaction from Canute in What do you use to mount your plans for viewing while building?
Metal plate screwed to the wall.
Then plans or odd sheets, notes, photos attached with magnetic strips.
Nick
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pompey2 got a reaction from mischief in What do you use to mount your plans for viewing while building?
Metal plate screwed to the wall.
Then plans or odd sheets, notes, photos attached with magnetic strips.
Nick
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pompey2 got a reaction from mtaylor in What do you use to mount your plans for viewing while building?
Metal plate screwed to the wall.
Then plans or odd sheets, notes, photos attached with magnetic strips.
Nick
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pompey2 got a reaction from thibaultron in What do you use to mount your plans for viewing while building?
Metal plate screwed to the wall.
Then plans or odd sheets, notes, photos attached with magnetic strips.
Nick
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pompey2 got a reaction from Archi in Help reading plan
Sounds like an idea from Don, actually the same hole rising at a steep angle.
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pompey2 got a reaction from mort stoll in HMS Victory 1805 by Robert29 - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1:72
Lovely Job Robert, your planking is looking real fine.
Keep up the good work
Nick
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pompey2 got a reaction from mtaylor in Help reading plan
Sounds like an idea from Don, actually the same hole rising at a steep angle.
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