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This topic existed already in 1.0, And I think it's worth to revive it.

 

For those models that also have interior parts being fully modeled installing some LED's may provide a useful way of keeping some of that work visible.

 

The advantage is that they are small. One can currently get them below 1 mm with wiring (< 0.1 mm) already attached.

 

Secondly they do not produce heat and come in many colors.

 

Finally because of their small power consumption long-lasting powering by batteries is possible.

 

 

The basic thing you need to know is that LED also need a resistance in series and that pair's, LED + resistance, need to be put in parallel. Many sites that sell them have online calculation tools to determine the value of you resistanc.

 

I got mine from this site http://www.leds.de but there are many...

 

In the next post I'll show some pictures of my application, maybe others can also add some of theirs..

 

Have fun

Edited by Michiel

Finished models: Botter, President

Current:

Prins Willem by the book of Ketting,

HMS Beagle - OcCre

restauration of a Statenjacht

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konstapelkamer2.JPG

Most of them are 3mm normal shape LEDs mounted between the inner and outer planking

 

hull04.JPG

Between every other gun-port I place one

 

lantaren1.JPG

They are coverer up with lanterns.

 

lantaren2.JPG

 

konstapelkamer3.JPG

Finally looking like this

 

lantaren-type2-on.JPG

One other type

 

kajuit2.JPG

And a candle on the table on the cabin

 

The last two were made using the smalles one I could get 1x0.5 mm with 0.1mm wiring already attached.

 

Best,

Michiel

Finished models: Botter, President

Current:

Prins Willem by the book of Ketting,

HMS Beagle - OcCre

restauration of a Statenjacht

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Nice work. Maybe you could write up a PDF and have one of the Mods put it in the database for everyone else that has thought about doing this. But do understand not all of us are good with electric, so it would have to be written so that anyone could understand how to do it.

Wacko

Joe :D

 

Go MSW :) :)

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i am getting ready / starting a build of the Fair American model shipways kit and was thinking of putting a few led lights in the great cabin.

I am looking for parts and ideas on how to route the wires, batteries etc...

 

this site has some good looking small led's that run off watch batteries.  http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/3v.html

3 volt small size

http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/ledlights1.html

Holding at Rigging stage :

MS Bluenose 1:64, rigging and finish work

 

Building Hull :

MS Fair American 1:48

 

In the yard:  18th Century Longboat, Model Shipways Kit

Done: AL Bounty Jolly Boat

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Here's a link to the section in the MSW Database with LED's...  http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-furniture-and-deck-fittings.php

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans                             Triton Cross-Section   

                                                                                                                       USS Constellaton (kit bashed to 1854 Sloop of War  _(Gallery) Build Log

                                                                                Wasa (Gallery)

                                                                                                                        HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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I was looking at the pdf's on getting flickering lights and the problem with getting the code for the program.

anyone who wants to possibly do that may want to look at this site:

http://www.cubloc.com/product/01_01cb220.php

 

they have small chips that you can program with a version of basic and the cpu chips only cost about 30-40 usd.

I have done programming in the past with some of the advanced chips and found it very easy to work with.

Holding at Rigging stage :

MS Bluenose 1:64, rigging and finish work

 

Building Hull :

MS Fair American 1:48

 

In the yard:  18th Century Longboat, Model Shipways Kit

Done: AL Bounty Jolly Boat

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Hi,

 

If anybody out there is like me and you no nothing about ciruit boards then you might find this of interest,

 

http://www.microminiatures.co.uk/acatalog/candle_flicker.html

 

You can adjust the flicker rate to suit your own taste, although it advert says that you can run 12 bulbs on it, when I got mine I tested it out by connecting a x36 LED strip to one of the outputs and it powered all of them fine with Vgood effects,

 

Anyway I hope this is of use to somebody,

 

cheers,

Edited by xavjar

Current Build:

 

HMS Victory 1:84

 

YNWA

 

Cheers Phil,

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perhaps a dumb question, but has anyone done these and used a solar cell somewhere (like on the base) to power a capacitor and used that for the leds? That way you never have to change batteries?

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-Sarah

Current Build:

Krabbenkutter CUX-87

Harriet Lane

Fishcutter GO-38

 

In the Wings:

Corel Victory Cross section

 

Completed Build:

USS Missouri minimissouri.jpgHMS Bounty's Jolly Boat thumbnail.jpg Peterboro Canoe tiny.jpg

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perhaps a dumb question, but has anyone done these and used a solar cell somewhere (like on the base) to power a capacitor and used that for the leds? That way you never have to change batteries?

 

well if you use LED's that run off the watch battery then you should not be changing them very often.... possibly not for several years. 

even with triple a cells I bet you can go a year.

 

LED - esp small ones only need a small amount of power to run and do not waste power the way incandescent bulbs do.

incandescent bulbs give off a lot of power in the form of heat and that is wasted energy.

LED run very cool - less waste energy and less "draw" from the power source.

this will also depend on how long per day / week / month you run the lights.

Holding at Rigging stage :

MS Bluenose 1:64, rigging and finish work

 

Building Hull :

MS Fair American 1:48

 

In the yard:  18th Century Longboat, Model Shipways Kit

Done: AL Bounty Jolly Boat

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knowing me I'd probably just leave it on 24x7....I will keep this in mind. I've wanted to play with lighting...maybe on one of my upcoming builds.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-Sarah

Current Build:

Krabbenkutter CUX-87

Harriet Lane

Fishcutter GO-38

 

In the Wings:

Corel Victory Cross section

 

Completed Build:

USS Missouri minimissouri.jpgHMS Bounty's Jolly Boat thumbnail.jpg Peterboro Canoe tiny.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Really impressed with your work on the interior lighting, Michiel !!!

Your lanterns and candles are very authentic.

 

This is a topic that could prove immensely useful to many MSW members.

 

I am planning on installing some lighting to my current build, and recently found something which may be of interest to others thinking of putting lighting into their builds.

 

It's a tiny circuit board called a Flicker3 DC.

 

It is designed to create a random flickering effect that simulates candle/gas/oil lamps.

post-675-0-11727300-1362491151.jpg

Edited by CaptainSteve

CaptainSteve
Current Build:  HM Granado Bomb Vessel (Caldercraft)

My BathTub:    Queen Anne Barge (Syren Ship Models)       Log:  Queen Anne Barge (an build log)

                        Bounty Launch (Model Shipways)                 Log:  Bounty Launch by CaptainSteve
                        Apostol Felipe (OcCre)
                        HMS Victory (Constructo)
Check It Out:   The Kit-Basher's Guide to The Galaxy

Website:          The Life & Boats of CaptainSteve

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The LEDs in the above pic were purchased seperately.

 

According to the wiring diagram which came with the Flicker3 DC, it should be possible to create up to 3 channels, with a number of LEDs (based on resistance and voltage) on each channel. 

 

As I understand it (NOTE: I am NOT an electrical engineer!!!), each channel will flicker randomly and differently to the others.

Edited by CaptainSteve

CaptainSteve
Current Build:  HM Granado Bomb Vessel (Caldercraft)

My BathTub:    Queen Anne Barge (Syren Ship Models)       Log:  Queen Anne Barge (an build log)

                        Bounty Launch (Model Shipways)                 Log:  Bounty Launch by CaptainSteve
                        Apostol Felipe (OcCre)
                        HMS Victory (Constructo)
Check It Out:   The Kit-Basher's Guide to The Galaxy

Website:          The Life & Boats of CaptainSteve

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Hello

 

I´m planning to use 3mm LED to light my Caldercraft Victory.

If I have to put one LED for each gunport due to the bulkhead construction

I would end up with about 40 LEDs for each side (includes the gallery)

 

Is this at all realistic / possible and if so how much voltage would I need.

Should I settle for lights in the gallery?

 

Erik

post-138-0-61897600-1363037582_thumb.png

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Look for LEDs with integral resistors, available in both 5v and 12v flavours, and save yourselves some work.

Previous Build: LA gun deck cross section.
Previous Build: Lancia Armata. Panart 1:16
Previous Build: HMS Pickle. Jotika Build.

HMS Triton cross section 1:32.

Shelved awaiting improved skills:

Chuck"s Cheerful.

Current build.

Tender Avos.

HM cutter Alert.

 

 

:

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I would say

 

with a 9V battery you need 180 and 230 Ohm resitors.

 

than you pull 18*0.02 230 mA

so I would put a second battery in series.

 

I only think it's a bit much light, where do you put your light? would half of them also work?

 

 

@ mike: what do they cost?

Finished models: Botter, President

Current:

Prins Willem by the book of Ketting,

HMS Beagle - OcCre

restauration of a Statenjacht

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Michiel,

 

In the UK from Maplin or Radio Spares (cheaper).

 

Maplin.

 

Yellow 3mm 5v  £0.74 each...3mm 12v £0.74 each....5mm 12v £0.84

 

Radio Spares.

 

5v and 12v are the same price. 3mm yellow at £0.88 per pack of 5 plus VAT plus postage. ( to me in the UK the total for say 10 x 3mm yellow would = £8.05 delivered......postage = half of the total so buying in bulk is a good idea! )

 

The Radio Spares part number for 5v 3mm yellow = L934YD-5V

Previous Build: LA gun deck cross section.
Previous Build: Lancia Armata. Panart 1:16
Previous Build: HMS Pickle. Jotika Build.

HMS Triton cross section 1:32.

Shelved awaiting improved skills:

Chuck"s Cheerful.

Current build.

Tender Avos.

HM cutter Alert.

 

 

:

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Hello

 

Because of the bulkheadsI figured I needed one light for each gunport but perhaps I canget away with one LED/bulkhead space.

For purchasing electronics check out ELFA Distrelec on the web. They have about everything concerning electronics.

Erik

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Erik,

You could open up the bulkheads then put an LED into every other one.  They would be "beween the guns" and spaced far enough apart for a realistic appearance.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans                             Triton Cross-Section   

                                                                                                                       USS Constellaton (kit bashed to 1854 Sloop of War  _(Gallery) Build Log

                                                                                Wasa (Gallery)

                                                                                                                        HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Hello

 

Because of the bulkheadsI figured I needed one light for each gunport but perhaps I canget away with one LED/bulkhead space.

For purchasing electronics check out ELFA Distrelec on the web. They have about everything concerning electronics.

Erik

 

Erik, if this kit is like most then I think you may want to spend a bit of time before you assemble the bulkheads and look at the plans and where you can cut out holes in the bulkheads and even in the center bulkhead / false keel board.

 

you can cut away a *LOT* of the wood and still have plenty of strength for the planking and such....  you could have enough open space to light all the gun ports and hatches with say   5 or 6 led lights   put them along the center keel bulkhead so they send light out to the hull and that way it will not be real bright right where the gun ports are but will provide enough light overall.

Holding at Rigging stage :

MS Bluenose 1:64, rigging and finish work

 

Building Hull :

MS Fair American 1:48

 

In the yard:  18th Century Longboat, Model Shipways Kit

Done: AL Bounty Jolly Boat

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Erik, if this kit is like most then I think you may want to spend a bit of time before you assemble the bulkheads and look at the plans and where you can cut out holes in the bulkheads and even in the center bulkhead / false keel board.

 

Wise words and this is exactly what I´m doing theese days. I have dry fitted all bulkheads to the keel (pic) and am trying to figure out the best way to light the ship.

The most important lights are the gallery if you ask me. I dont want the ship to look like a christmas tree so reducing the number of LED:s to every other bulkhead or perhaps even less, and cutting some of the bulkheads to enable a reasonable spread of light is probably a good way to go. There has to be some opening of the gallery construction to allow for lights but I think thats rather straight forward.

 

I attached some pictures of LEDs on the Billing Boats Vasa kit I made a few years ago. This kit differs as the keel does not part the ship in half which made the whole thing easier. Less LEDs made the wiring a lot less complicated aswell. 

One picture also shows the "Christmas tree" effect that I´m trying to avoid.

 

For the Victory kit I want to use two parrallell circuits. One on each side. Some way to dim the lights could be a good idea aswell. Perhaps a potentiometer of some kind. I will start a buildinglog when I start to use glue on this project, its only planning so far.

 

Thanks for good advise

 

Erik

post-138-0-45274700-1363197707.jpg

post-138-0-46473000-1363198083.jpg

post-138-0-77287800-1363198126.jpg

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Erik I think you should check this out, 3 volt watch/ clock batteries that are small  and led's that have a flickering variable light level:

http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/3v.html

http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/flickering-led.html

they have other ways to provide power such as ac adapters etc...

Holding at Rigging stage :

MS Bluenose 1:64, rigging and finish work

 

Building Hull :

MS Fair American 1:48

 

In the yard:  18th Century Longboat, Model Shipways Kit

Done: AL Bounty Jolly Boat

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  • 2 years later...

Michiel,

 

I have recently been bitten by the model bug and I came across this post. I saw the pictures where you installed the lights inside the cabin and various other places on the ship. I thought it looked absolutely great. You did a wonderful job. I was wondering could you tell me what model that was, please?

 

Thanks,

Karen

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Thanks

 

It's the prins willem the link is below : current: prins willem

 

If I would do it again I would probably just put a raspberry pi in the hull somewhere, connect a speaker for sound effects and use the gpio ports for stearing the leds, some step engines,... . A dymic lighting system would be trivial, day night ... possibilities are endless

 

by the way what are you building Karen? I can only encourage you to open your own log..

 

Best,

Michiel

Edited by Michiel

Finished models: Botter, President

Current:

Prins Willem by the book of Ketting,

HMS Beagle - OcCre

restauration of a Statenjacht

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Michiel,

 

I haven't started building yet. I have just started my very first model ever. The Jolly Roger. It's nothing spectacular, but I'm a newbie and practice makes perfect, right? However, I do hope to get to your level of actual building models. What you have done is spectacular!

 

I actually have bought a Minicraft Titanic 1:350 and want to install LEDs as I am putting it together. The LEDs is what actually led me to this post. I have been trying to get some ideas on how to install, what size LEDs, on/off switches, etc.

 

Great job!

 

Karen

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If you are interested in flikering LEDs, there really is no need to build complicated circuits. For less than four dollars each you can buy the LEDs with built-in circuitry to give you random flikering (not flashing, mind you).

 

 

I have bought LEDs from this same company and they arrived quickly and were easy to use. I had them include the transformer (3 volts) which comes with a switch and connectors. I have used them in the past (two windmill models) and they have been lit for more than two years continuously. It makes a nice night-light as well.

 

 

http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/flickering-led.html

 

I am planning on using two (red and orange) to simulate the fire in the stove for my cross section work. Check out the video in the web site above.

 

sorry Figuerres, I noticed your post above just now.

Edited by Modeler12

Jay

 

Current build Cross Section USS Constitution  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10120-cross-section-forward-area-of-the-uss-constitution/

Finished USS Constitution:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/103-uss-constitution-by-modeler12/

 

'A picture is worth a  . . . . .'      More is better . . . .

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