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rtropp

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  1. Like
    rtropp got a reaction from Jack12477 in US Brig Syren by rtropp - Model Shipways - 1:64   
    I have worked on the second go at the figure head.  It has been taking a lot of time, but I am enjoying it.  Thanks to some other threads, I have found some really fine burrs as small as .4mm. While most if the figure  has been carved using files, some of the the really tough spots have benefited from the fine burrs and really small gouges.  
     

     

     

     
    There is still a lot to do, I figure I am about half way, but it is shaping up.
     
    I had some problems with the first one shown in the last posting.  I now realize that I had cut the form out using the plans then used the supplied figure head to help guide the detailed work. Turns out they are different.
     

     
    the arms, hands and fins, even the hair is different.  I was so focused on doing the shaping that I did'nt stop to notice the differences.
     
     
    The jury is still out on whether it will be good enough to use... but I think it will have to be really bad for me not to use it.  Something about it being made here that has a nice ring to it.
     
    On another note.  I was thinking about how difficult it can be to build the ship in miniature.  So I figured, heck, I have a few acres.  why not build the Syren full size... so I am putting together an order for boxwood and pear for the 240 ton brig.  Oh.. wait a second, I live in Atlanta... how am I going to get it to the ocean.
    Oh well, cancel the order...:-)
     
    Richard
     
  2. Like
    rtropp got a reaction from egkb in US Brig Syren by rtropp - Model Shipways - 1:64   
    I have worked on the second go at the figure head.  It has been taking a lot of time, but I am enjoying it.  Thanks to some other threads, I have found some really fine burrs as small as .4mm. While most if the figure  has been carved using files, some of the the really tough spots have benefited from the fine burrs and really small gouges.  
     

     

     

     
    There is still a lot to do, I figure I am about half way, but it is shaping up.
     
    I had some problems with the first one shown in the last posting.  I now realize that I had cut the form out using the plans then used the supplied figure head to help guide the detailed work. Turns out they are different.
     

     
    the arms, hands and fins, even the hair is different.  I was so focused on doing the shaping that I did'nt stop to notice the differences.
     
     
    The jury is still out on whether it will be good enough to use... but I think it will have to be really bad for me not to use it.  Something about it being made here that has a nice ring to it.
     
    On another note.  I was thinking about how difficult it can be to build the ship in miniature.  So I figured, heck, I have a few acres.  why not build the Syren full size... so I am putting together an order for boxwood and pear for the 240 ton brig.  Oh.. wait a second, I live in Atlanta... how am I going to get it to the ocean.
    Oh well, cancel the order...:-)
     
    Richard
     
  3. Like
    rtropp got a reaction from Gahm in US Brig Syren by rtropp - Model Shipways - 1:64   
    I have worked on the second go at the figure head.  It has been taking a lot of time, but I am enjoying it.  Thanks to some other threads, I have found some really fine burrs as small as .4mm. While most if the figure  has been carved using files, some of the the really tough spots have benefited from the fine burrs and really small gouges.  
     

     

     

     
    There is still a lot to do, I figure I am about half way, but it is shaping up.
     
    I had some problems with the first one shown in the last posting.  I now realize that I had cut the form out using the plans then used the supplied figure head to help guide the detailed work. Turns out they are different.
     

     
    the arms, hands and fins, even the hair is different.  I was so focused on doing the shaping that I did'nt stop to notice the differences.
     
     
    The jury is still out on whether it will be good enough to use... but I think it will have to be really bad for me not to use it.  Something about it being made here that has a nice ring to it.
     
    On another note.  I was thinking about how difficult it can be to build the ship in miniature.  So I figured, heck, I have a few acres.  why not build the Syren full size... so I am putting together an order for boxwood and pear for the 240 ton brig.  Oh.. wait a second, I live in Atlanta... how am I going to get it to the ocean.
    Oh well, cancel the order...:-)
     
    Richard
     
  4. Like
    rtropp got a reaction from _SalD_ in US Brig Syren by rtropp - Model Shipways - 1:64   
    I have worked on the second go at the figure head.  It has been taking a lot of time, but I am enjoying it.  Thanks to some other threads, I have found some really fine burrs as small as .4mm. While most if the figure  has been carved using files, some of the the really tough spots have benefited from the fine burrs and really small gouges.  
     

     

     

     
    There is still a lot to do, I figure I am about half way, but it is shaping up.
     
    I had some problems with the first one shown in the last posting.  I now realize that I had cut the form out using the plans then used the supplied figure head to help guide the detailed work. Turns out they are different.
     

     
    the arms, hands and fins, even the hair is different.  I was so focused on doing the shaping that I did'nt stop to notice the differences.
     
     
    The jury is still out on whether it will be good enough to use... but I think it will have to be really bad for me not to use it.  Something about it being made here that has a nice ring to it.
     
    On another note.  I was thinking about how difficult it can be to build the ship in miniature.  So I figured, heck, I have a few acres.  why not build the Syren full size... so I am putting together an order for boxwood and pear for the 240 ton brig.  Oh.. wait a second, I live in Atlanta... how am I going to get it to the ocean.
    Oh well, cancel the order...:-)
     
    Richard
     
  5. Like
    rtropp got a reaction from Dubz in US Brig Syren by rtropp - Model Shipways - 1:64   
    I have worked on the second go at the figure head.  It has been taking a lot of time, but I am enjoying it.  Thanks to some other threads, I have found some really fine burrs as small as .4mm. While most if the figure  has been carved using files, some of the the really tough spots have benefited from the fine burrs and really small gouges.  
     

     

     

     
    There is still a lot to do, I figure I am about half way, but it is shaping up.
     
    I had some problems with the first one shown in the last posting.  I now realize that I had cut the form out using the plans then used the supplied figure head to help guide the detailed work. Turns out they are different.
     

     
    the arms, hands and fins, even the hair is different.  I was so focused on doing the shaping that I did'nt stop to notice the differences.
     
     
    The jury is still out on whether it will be good enough to use... but I think it will have to be really bad for me not to use it.  Something about it being made here that has a nice ring to it.
     
    On another note.  I was thinking about how difficult it can be to build the ship in miniature.  So I figured, heck, I have a few acres.  why not build the Syren full size... so I am putting together an order for boxwood and pear for the 240 ton brig.  Oh.. wait a second, I live in Atlanta... how am I going to get it to the ocean.
    Oh well, cancel the order...:-)
     
    Richard
     
  6. Like
    rtropp got a reaction from mischief in Proxxon 12v Pen Sander?   
    I have been using the Proxxon pen sander for about a year and I like it. The Pen sander is especially useful in tight corners or tough spots areas.
     
    I bought the larger capacity transformer and glad I did.  I bought recently the Proxxon 50 ef rotary tool because it is thin and light and easier to handle than the Dremel or Dremel with flex shaft.  (The flex shaft can be cumbersome to use with that heavy cable.) With the larger capacity transformer I am able to keep both tools ready.  I may also get the Proxxon etcher and that will also fit in with the other two. (I have started trying to carve figure heads and other ships decorations so need the finer control.)
     
    I stopped buying the Proxxon sanding sheets because, as mentioned they do wear out and can get expensive.  I buy adhesive backed sand paper at home depot and cut my own.  It is pretty easy and they last a lot longer than the Proxxon (or micro mark.)  Also you have a wider selection of grits to match the task at hand. I waited for a MicroMark sale and bought extra heads so I could keep various grits at hand. (The micromark fits the Proxxon, in fact, it looks the same except the Micromark does not require a transformer, it is AC. But, I suspect that might make the MM a bit heavier, don't know for sure, others may.)
     
     
    Richard
  7. Like
    rtropp got a reaction from Canute in Proxxon 12v Pen Sander?   
    I have been using the Proxxon pen sander for about a year and I like it. The Pen sander is especially useful in tight corners or tough spots areas.
     
    I bought the larger capacity transformer and glad I did.  I bought recently the Proxxon 50 ef rotary tool because it is thin and light and easier to handle than the Dremel or Dremel with flex shaft.  (The flex shaft can be cumbersome to use with that heavy cable.) With the larger capacity transformer I am able to keep both tools ready.  I may also get the Proxxon etcher and that will also fit in with the other two. (I have started trying to carve figure heads and other ships decorations so need the finer control.)
     
    I stopped buying the Proxxon sanding sheets because, as mentioned they do wear out and can get expensive.  I buy adhesive backed sand paper at home depot and cut my own.  It is pretty easy and they last a lot longer than the Proxxon (or micro mark.)  Also you have a wider selection of grits to match the task at hand. I waited for a MicroMark sale and bought extra heads so I could keep various grits at hand. (The micromark fits the Proxxon, in fact, it looks the same except the Micromark does not require a transformer, it is AC. But, I suspect that might make the MM a bit heavier, don't know for sure, others may.)
     
     
    Richard
  8. Like
    rtropp got a reaction from mtaylor in US Brig Syren by rtropp - Model Shipways - 1:64   
    I have worked on the second go at the figure head.  It has been taking a lot of time, but I am enjoying it.  Thanks to some other threads, I have found some really fine burrs as small as .4mm. While most if the figure  has been carved using files, some of the the really tough spots have benefited from the fine burrs and really small gouges.  
     

     

     

     
    There is still a lot to do, I figure I am about half way, but it is shaping up.
     
    I had some problems with the first one shown in the last posting.  I now realize that I had cut the form out using the plans then used the supplied figure head to help guide the detailed work. Turns out they are different.
     

     
    the arms, hands and fins, even the hair is different.  I was so focused on doing the shaping that I did'nt stop to notice the differences.
     
     
    The jury is still out on whether it will be good enough to use... but I think it will have to be really bad for me not to use it.  Something about it being made here that has a nice ring to it.
     
    On another note.  I was thinking about how difficult it can be to build the ship in miniature.  So I figured, heck, I have a few acres.  why not build the Syren full size... so I am putting together an order for boxwood and pear for the 240 ton brig.  Oh.. wait a second, I live in Atlanta... how am I going to get it to the ocean.
    Oh well, cancel the order...:-)
     
    Richard
     
  9. Like
    rtropp got a reaction from hornet in Proxxon 12v Pen Sander?   
    I have been using the Proxxon pen sander for about a year and I like it. The Pen sander is especially useful in tight corners or tough spots areas.
     
    I bought the larger capacity transformer and glad I did.  I bought recently the Proxxon 50 ef rotary tool because it is thin and light and easier to handle than the Dremel or Dremel with flex shaft.  (The flex shaft can be cumbersome to use with that heavy cable.) With the larger capacity transformer I am able to keep both tools ready.  I may also get the Proxxon etcher and that will also fit in with the other two. (I have started trying to carve figure heads and other ships decorations so need the finer control.)
     
    I stopped buying the Proxxon sanding sheets because, as mentioned they do wear out and can get expensive.  I buy adhesive backed sand paper at home depot and cut my own.  It is pretty easy and they last a lot longer than the Proxxon (or micro mark.)  Also you have a wider selection of grits to match the task at hand. I waited for a MicroMark sale and bought extra heads so I could keep various grits at hand. (The micromark fits the Proxxon, in fact, it looks the same except the Micromark does not require a transformer, it is AC. But, I suspect that might make the MM a bit heavier, don't know for sure, others may.)
     
     
    Richard
  10. Like
    rtropp reacted to xken in US Brig Niagara by xken - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1/64   
    Thanks David! Here is a quick update on the flag while waiting for things to set. I soaked the flag in warm water and then formed it at the angle of the flag halyard keeping in mind the drape down 90 degrees to ground. The formed flag was held in place with clothespins and allowed to completely dry to take a set.
    There was a slight release when the pins were removed and final adjusts made by hand.

     
    Here is the top flag attachment with the wood toggle on the flag and the loop in the line.

     
    Here is the bottom attachment point with the loop on the flag and the wood toggle on the line. This combination allow for removal of flag, adding more flags or having the line in place joined at the ends.
     

     
    Now back to working on the hammock rail covers; a great deal of knot tying and just tedious and slow.
  11. Like
    rtropp reacted to mtaylor in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED   
    Minor update... planking is ongoing but I needed a break.  So back to the longboat.
     
    Reworking again... 5th time I think, the form for making the longboat.  1st was the hand carved plug... tossed it.  2nd was the bulkheads like Chuck uses and BE did so well at 1:64...  broke the bulkheads.  3rd was the same using thicker bulkheads, still broke off the framing bits.   4th was a plug that used the laser to cut out... Something hiccupped and it came out 1" too long.  I'm still not sure what happened...  So.. number 5... in all it's glory.  Exact size and I'm happy.   Now to put it together and start adding stuff like frames and keel. 
     


  12. Like
    rtropp reacted to src in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED   
    I thought that was a prerequisite for ship building?
     
    I think you're on to the solution with V5.0 Mark. Will be watching closely, I would like to add a ships boat or 3 to my next build.
    Sam
  13. Like
    rtropp reacted to albert in HMS Naiad 1797 by albert - FINISHED - 1/48   
    Another photos:
     
     

     

     

     

     

  14. Like
    rtropp got a reaction from druxey in plans with Swan series?   
    Hi,
    I am not sure if this was mentioned. 
    I just ordered the Admiralty plans and CD's, There are actually two sets for the Swan on their order page. The first, for $150 covers the build and framing (the first three books in the series).  The second set ($50) is for rigging and masting (I believe for the fourth book in the series..
     
    Then, in addition, the ship specific plans for the version you choose should be ordered from the royal maritime museum.
     
    I did have questions about what will be missing from a build attempted without using the plans.  Just curious.
     
    I had questioned the cost for the total package but Gregg or David suggested I figure the cost out given the number of hours... years required.  Not so much when you think of it that way.
     
    Thanks Druxey, I stared the post this morning, then decided to edit it but was called away while the edit was in progress.  When I posted it the screen refreshed and I saw your answer.
     
    Richard
  15. Like
    rtropp got a reaction from mtaylor in plans with Swan series?   
    Hi,
    I am not sure if this was mentioned. 
    I just ordered the Admiralty plans and CD's, There are actually two sets for the Swan on their order page. The first, for $150 covers the build and framing (the first three books in the series).  The second set ($50) is for rigging and masting (I believe for the fourth book in the series..
     
    Then, in addition, the ship specific plans for the version you choose should be ordered from the royal maritime museum.
     
    I did have questions about what will be missing from a build attempted without using the plans.  Just curious.
     
    I had questioned the cost for the total package but Gregg or David suggested I figure the cost out given the number of hours... years required.  Not so much when you think of it that way.
     
    Thanks Druxey, I stared the post this morning, then decided to edit it but was called away while the edit was in progress.  When I posted it the screen refreshed and I saw your answer.
     
    Richard
  16. Like
    rtropp got a reaction from Canute in plans with Swan series?   
    Hi,
    I am not sure if this was mentioned. 
    I just ordered the Admiralty plans and CD's, There are actually two sets for the Swan on their order page. The first, for $150 covers the build and framing (the first three books in the series).  The second set ($50) is for rigging and masting (I believe for the fourth book in the series..
     
    Then, in addition, the ship specific plans for the version you choose should be ordered from the royal maritime museum.
     
    I did have questions about what will be missing from a build attempted without using the plans.  Just curious.
     
    I had questioned the cost for the total package but Gregg or David suggested I figure the cost out given the number of hours... years required.  Not so much when you think of it that way.
     
    Thanks Druxey, I stared the post this morning, then decided to edit it but was called away while the edit was in progress.  When I posted it the screen refreshed and I saw your answer.
     
    Richard
  17. Like
    rtropp reacted to pirozzi in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70   
    The transom has been planked on both sides because some of it in small spots will be seen in between the metal ornamentation to come. A whole lot of cutting and carving was needed to cut the planks around all of the odd shaped holes. This is why the transom and galleries are taking so long to complete. I have probably 100 hours in this part already and I am not half done.
    Next up is to start adding the decorative railings and many more windows.
     
    Vince P.


  18. Like
    rtropp reacted to pirozzi in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70   
    Still working on the transom and stern galleries. There are so many parts that make up this section of the ship. Since there are no instructions on the assembly, the order in which to place parts requires much study. Many of the parts require other parts to be installed first in order to get a proper location and fit. I would have thought that the large decorative statues would be somewhere near the end, but in order to place railings and windows, they need to be placed early.
    Here, the four statues are placed and the balcony railing is placed.
     
    Vince P.






  19. Like
    rtropp reacted to pirozzi in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70   
    The lower deck extension has been trimmed and contoured and a decorative strip has been added all around the edge. The strip is made from a piece of 4mm x 1mm walnut and enhanced with a 2mm x 1mm painted black.
    The lower railing has stantions added. I did not use the metal strips supplied by the kit, even though they are OK. I used wood 8mm stantions from my stash.
    The 2 sattelite windows are added to the top of the ends of the railing.
     
    It is finally getting to look like the fancy stern of the RW.
     
    I still have a long way to go with the transom and galleries.
     
    Vince P.



  20. Like
    rtropp got a reaction from Canute in US Brig Syren by _SalD_ – FINISHED - 3/16" scale   
    Sal
    the coaming corners look great.
    The good part about me working so slowly is I get to see how you and the others did parts.
     
    Richard
  21. Like
    rtropp got a reaction from GLakie in US Brig Syren by _SalD_ – FINISHED - 3/16" scale   
    Sal
    the coaming corners look great.
    The good part about me working so slowly is I get to see how you and the others did parts.
     
    Richard
  22. Like
    rtropp got a reaction from _SalD_ in US Brig Syren by _SalD_ – FINISHED - 3/16" scale   
    Sal
    the coaming corners look great.
    The good part about me working so slowly is I get to see how you and the others did parts.
     
    Richard
  23. Like
    rtropp got a reaction from JesseLee in US Brig Syren by _SalD_ – FINISHED - 3/16" scale   
    Sal
    the coaming corners look great.
    The good part about me working so slowly is I get to see how you and the others did parts.
     
    Richard
  24. Like
    rtropp reacted to _SalD_ in US Brig Syren by _SalD_ – FINISHED - 3/16" scale   
    Finishing up the hatchways I glued them to the deck along with the shot racks.
     

     
    The cover boards for the capstan platform were then added between the aft hatch and companionway opening and finally the edge boards around the inside of the companionway were glued in place.
     

     
     
    After all the hatches were installed I thought I would add a little 'Dirk bling'.  I liked the iron angle pieces he added to the corners of the hatch where the anchor ropes enter the hull so I thought I’d give it a try.  Using the spur from the photo-etched parts I made a couple ‘L’ shaped pieces.  Next I drilled holes for .5 mm rivets I got from Scale Hardware, blackened all the parts and then very carefully attached them to the coaming.  Not too bad but I have to try a little harder to keep the ca glue off the parts
     

  25. Like
    rtropp got a reaction from _SalD_ in US Brig Syren by _SalD_ – FINISHED - 3/16" scale   
    Beautiful work,
    Richard
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